It's hard to arouse taste buds in a restaurant named after a bug, especially a large prehistoric specimen that incessantly engorges itself with mosquitoes that may or may not be swollen with human blood. Yet somehow this swift, darting fly fascinates. Is it its elegance, the deft darts it employs to snatch flying prey out of thin air by means of the basket-like apparatus it weaves with its legs in flight? Is it the speed of the beast, which can reach velocities of 30 mph? Or is the appeal bound in the fact that these beasts...
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