Fusion, whether it's in musical, culinary or thermonuclear idioms, is a tedious term. It's a sigh stimulant, a drowse inducer, a word that was forged in a quest for succinctness but instead plopped us into the middle of a muddy mealy mouth. Think of how many menus, in one way or another, stake a "fusion" claim. Better yet, ponder the paucity of those that don't. Fact is, exotic ingredients and techniques--driven into mainstream consciousness by cable TV, the Internet and Boeing jetliners--are so commonplace that it's the rare chef or menu that doesn't Cuisinart the globe and serve it in a cornhusk. Exceptions are those limelight-shy chefs who craft menus boasting authenticity and tradition, paying homage... More >>>