In Dallas, seafood is the black sheep, a gangly, stinky stepchild that doesn't take to wood-fired grates or high-degree broilers with the same gusto as a corn-fed steer. It's a placeholder on steakhouse menus, a light alternative for those who don't relish beefy bloodlust or the burden a fine steakhouse meal often exerts during digestion. Sure, seafood inhabits assorted lobster houses and oyster bars and Cajun rooms with preparations that mostly stick to strict tried-and-true protocol. Sure, it is the stock in trade of sushi restaurants where, no matter how good it is when it's done well, seafood is both predictable and monotonous: mostly raw, riced, soy sauced and... More >>>