Chinese cuisine, with rare exceptions, is a mongrel of conformity in these parts: a risk-averse version of the intensely risky food. It's transmogrified, morphed, tamed and sanitized, made pliant and meek. Sometimes you can barely recognize the stuff. Oh, there are the disheveled spaces here and there, hollowed out of strip malls, where you can get the sow's ears and turkey intestines and duck tongues and tripe and all of those things that wouldn't dare show up in... More >>>