Sumo Shack

The star of the show at Sumo Shack is bao, the steamed bun that’s probably best-known in Texas as an accompaniment to Peking duck. And few foodstuffs — tacos, for instance — offer as much room for a chef to play around and get crazy for as low a price. Sumo Shack passes the basic test of consistently producing fresh, well-textured bao that never seems flavorless or like it’s been sitting out. And thank goodness for the burger bao, a miraculous new fusion food. Sumo Shack opts for the classic burger experience, one that wouldn’t be out of place at Keller’s or Off-Site Kitchen, except for the whole Chinese steamed bun thing.