Angelo & Vito's
4520 Frankford
972-381-1001
The reason places like Little Caesar's and Domino's thrive is a commitment to 'just good enough' style pizza.
Such operations can easily bake a pale yet tolerable crust, spread on some simplistic sauce and let the toppings take care of the rest. After two pizzas at Angelo & Vito's recently, I get the feeling this popular North Dallas spot is beginning to settle in, as well.
Nothing particularly wrong with either pizza, mind you--just that both
crusts fell into the yeasty, glutenous, slightly under baked category,
as if run by timer rather than any particular "feel." Instead of a
balance of herbs and tomato, the sauce smacks your palate with one
sappy, sweet-tangy note. And, since I'm quibbling, their sausage is
dull and gray...not the sort of thing you want to see on a pie.
On the plus side, their cooks know how to space out the ingredients--an
important and often overlooked feat, for a little tactical finesse in
the assembly makes certain no one ingredient dominates a slice...Unless
you order their version of a meat lovers pizza, in which case shards of
protein mound up haphazardly. The nature of the beast, I guess.
At least use decent stuff, except for the gray bits.
Yes, they bring out pizzas markedly superior to those produced by the
aforementioned chains. But they're of the same genre. In other words,
you get the feeling Angelo & Vito's could do much better if they
didn't already have a loyal following--if they had to work for it, once
again.
Last fall we gave them a 77 for their delivery efforts. In house, they
also score a solid C...which amounts to a A in some school districts
these days.
