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Subject: Ethnic Cuisines
DiTerra’s Urban Italian
It's always wise to eat where waiters eat
March 26, 2009Kids Eat The Darndest Things: Los Lupes, Duncanville
November 6, 2008Hash Over: Home for the Holidays, Cut-Rate Lobster, Etc.
Who knows why everyone takes such delight in gingerbread houses? The fate that befell Hansel and Gretel--or nearly befell; we only know the story through Bugs Bunny--when they encountered such a structure was none too pleasant.But last night, the Rosewood Crescent Hotel put the final bit of icing on their holiday centerpiece, a ten foot tall gingerbread house designed by pastry chef Eric Perelli and constructed over 240 hours by his team of overtime-hungry assistants.
December 5, 200810 Questions: Paula Lambert
She opened the Mozzarella Company way back in 1982, after returning from Italy frustrated--not at the city's lifestyle or our inability to gesture frantically while holding normal conversation, but at the shortage of good, fresh cheese. Back then Lambert's fledgling company produced no more than 100 pounds of mozzarella a week. But these days she stacks culinary awards on her shelf, writes cookbooks and teaches. Restaurants brag about serving her brand. Hell, even South African Airlines stocks
January 15, 2009Pop Culture
Chicken Lollipops. Red India Bistro, you had us at Chicken Lollipops.That menu item, one of many at the brand-new Indian-Chinese fusion restaurant in Addison, certainly caught our attention. What kept our attention however, was the bistro's other notable qualities implemented by owner Pramod Prodduturi, who also is behind successful and growing Masala/Masala Wok concepts. Red India's 2,000 square-foot lounge is open until midnight Sundays through Thursdays and until 2 a.m. on Fridays and Sat
January 15, 2009Spam-ming The City; Maximo Effort
Don't call it McSushi, but finding a reasonably priced roll in the DFW area is about to get really, really easy. A restaurant with the convenience of fast food and low price points of grocery store sushi, Wylie-born Avocado California Roll & Sushi is already rolling for our neighbors in Denton, Irving and Frisco. And, it's coming our way this weekend. Avocado serves Asian staples like miso soup, udon noodles and edamame in addition to a wide selection of rolls. Like its siblings, the new
January 21, 2009Short Orders: Cyclone Anaya's (Oak Lawn)
Cyclone Anaya's3211 Oak Lawn Ave.214-420-0030Recent visits to this popular outpost of the Houston-based chain inspire two observations.First, bars and restaurants in Dallas consider the Margarita a child's drink. Order the famous Tex-Mex cocktail and, with a few exceptions, they bring out something bar-syrup sweet and only vaguely alcoholic, the sugary limeade flavor disguising shortcomings in the tequila department. Occasionally you pick up on a familiar effervescence in the background, a flitt
February 9, 2009On The Range: West Texas Enchiladas
The first of a series documenting Chris Meesey's personal quest for authentic Tex-Mex. But we'll let him tell you more... I'm a genu-wine Texan, born and bred. In fact, I began life at Nix Hospital, San Antonio--less than one mile from The Alamo, the acknowledged epicenter of the Texas Universe. How much more Lone Star can you get than that? And, like most old-school Texans, I have my food likes and dislikes. Last time I checked, I think it was in the Texas Constitution that all Texans must
February 11, 2009Lost In Translation
One thing you will never see on City of Ate or in Observer reviews--except perhaps in mocking form--is the word 'foodie.' In part, this is personal preference. The cute diminutive nickname just sounds so damn childish. But my distaste for the term stems from something decidedly generational (and almost gleefully uninformed) implied in its emergence and dominance. The word crept into parlance in the early 80s then took off, spurred by a book--The Official Foodie Handbook--the launching of Food Ne
February 16, 2009On The Range: Fajitas
I made a rather startling discovery while continuing my quest into the origins of Tex-Mex. For some reason I had assumed fajitas were a California addition, perhaps because of their ready adoption in to the presumably healthier Cal-Mex lineup. But no--legend credits Ninfa's in Houston, although according to Robb Walsh's seminal work The Tex-Mex Cookbook, fajitas are as Tejano as Rudy Cisneros, Selena or Juan Seguin--originating in the Lower Rio Grande Valley in the 1940's. There, butchers cal
February 18, 2009On The Range: Combination Plates
Dwight Eisenhower (right) took Mamie for a Tex-Mex combo plate at The Original Mexican Restaurant in San Antonio before WWILet's get one thing straight: Tex-Mex has never pretended to represent Mexican cuisine in its entirety. In fact, according to Robb Walsh, author of The Tex-Mex Cookbook, the genre was developed by Euro-American descendants and Hispanics living in Texas (Tejanos)--and was designed to be marketed to gringos. This week, my quest to find examples of authentic Tex-Mex in Dallas
February 25, 2009On The Range: Mexican Breakfasts
Beans for breakfast? Are you kidding?Ah, but according to the indispensable tome The Tex-Mex Cookbook, here in the Lone Star State a pot of beans was often used to break a cowboy's fast on the long trail, whether plain (as preferred by eminent Texas writer J Frank Dobie) or with a little bacon and chile added.At some point, an enterprising mamacita got the bright idea of mashing them into a paste and frying them up with lard or bacon grease to create that Tex-Mex staple, refried beans.
March 4, 2009On The Range: Tamales
Pig's head tamales?Well, yes. Robb Walsh notes in his Tex-Mex cookbook that traditional emporiums use pig's heads as their base meat when making their husky creations. The head is boiled until the meat and lard cook away, then the broth is used to moisten the masa harina (corn meal infused with lime) before the pork and lard are whipped together until fluffy. Finally, mixture is wrapped into masa.Walsh goes on to note that some tamale-makers use the easier-to-handle pork butts. In any case, the
March 11, 2009Short Orders: Taverna
Taverna3210 Armstrong Ave.214-520-9933You can imagine Europe from a table inside Taverna, especially on a dim and sputtering March evening. The drafty windows, the clicking of rain, the homey clutter--it's like you've drifted somehow into an old world cafe...until Uptown boy walks in.He saw fit to cradle designer sunglasses above the buttons of his shirt. Last night, After twenty or so hours of relentless downpour. Oblivious poseurs sorta spoil the ambiance. But maybe that's a good thing. Daydre
March 12, 2009Short Orders: Reikyu Sushi
Reikyu Sushi5321 E. Mockingbird Lane214-823-3772Has there ever been a craze as pervasive as sushi? America's passion for raw fish began to build sometime in the very early 80s, which means it's closing in on 40 years. That tops disco fever by 34 years. Our bitterness toward Japan for that faux pas at Peal Harbor? Not even close. It's longer by about 38 than our interest in Ethiopian restaurants. The relationship between that hockey slacker and the Palin daughter (is it Raven? Can't remember) fel
March 16, 2009Short Orders: Andiamo
Andiamo4151 Belt LineAddison972-233-1515Andiamo is the dining equivalent of television's Life on Mars or Ashes to Ashes--an unexpected and momentarily confusing step back in time. The decor probably hasn't changed at all since the place opened in 1990. The menu includes staid, old-school dishes like minestrone, lemon sole, chicken Parmegiana and veal piccata. In fact, they list five veal options, having apparently missed a few decades of public outcry over the treatment of animals. They even pro
March 19, 2009On The Range: Enchiladas
Let's face it: A true Tex-Mex establishment succeeds or fails on the strength of its enchiladas. I realize I'm speaking only for myself, at least as far as popular dishes go. Many patrons of an El-or-La-something-or-other (as Rosemary Kent dubbed Tex-Mex restaurants in her Genuine Texas Handbook, released a generation ago) are perfectly content to order fajitas, tacos, or quesadillas every time. However, one can always learn volumes about the cook's commitment to authenticity through enc
March 25, 2009On The Range: Tortillas
Corn or flour?Depends on the filling. This comes from Alison Cook, author of "Taco Capitol, USA," a groundbreaking Texas Monthly cover story on the subject of Tex-Mex cuisine, who notes that while flour tortillas are better suited to Northern Mexico-style grilled meats and to breakfast tacos, "certain (soft) taco fillings seem to cry out for the character and texture of a properly mealy, layery corn tortilla: nopalitos (prickly-pear cactus pads), homey Mexican stews (such as carne guisada), and
April 1, 2009Veggie Girl: Eatzi's
A hat tip to the writers of Dude Food, who this February ensured that good ol' meat-eatin' men could dine successfully at Eatzi's. So, it turns out, can veggie-eating types. Eatzi's is one of those Oak Lawn institutions whose charming perks have given it staying power. It could be the outdoor patio with piped-in opera music, the surprisingly broad wine and bread selections, or simply the fact that it's one of few places where you feel European enough to kick back and have a glass of wine o
April 2, 2009At Agave Azul, Tequila and Ornery Old Men Bring a New Look to Old Town Carrollton
March 5, 2009Fedora: Supper-Club Italian that Quickly Becomes Old Hat
February 19, 2009Nueva Casita
January 15, 2009Tei An is a Soba Success
These noodles come with an authentic twist—mostly
November 6, 2008The Mint is Heavy on Fusion and Light on Spice
October 30, 2008Bland on Bland
September 18, 2008RA Sushi in Plano
The attitude's served up raw, but the execution is half-baked
September 25, 2008Still I Rise
A new Highland Park souffle joint is blowin' up
August 21, 2008Jumbo Super Buffet
July 24, 2008Ask a Mexican
In corn vs. flour, wheat gets a smackdown
July 24, 2008Vintage Tex-Mex
July 3, 2008Bull Ring
July 3, 2008Bengal Tiger
Spice and everything is nice at a new Indian eatery
June 19, 2008Spooked Grill
June 12, 2008Review: The Food, Not the Setting, Impresses at Scene Restaurant & Lounge
May 8, 2008Review: Villa-O
The "O" is for original and organic.
May 1, 2008Review: Herrera's Cafe No. 1
Herrera's sensational tortillas and fiery salsa will keep us coming back.
April 24, 2008Review: Nonna
Clean, minimalist, delicious and sort of Italian
April 10, 2008Review: The Fish
The Fish could use a touch of poison to spice up its menu
February 7, 2008Review: Zen Sushi
Straightforward, simple and delicious, Zen Sushi delivers without fussiness
January 24, 2008Pepe & Mito's
Pepe & Mito's solid food is nice, the liquid diet even nicer
January 17, 2008Review: Urban Taco
Try a little Mexican food without the gloop and refrieds
January 3, 2008Szechuan Chinese Restaurant
December 27, 2007I Want It All
December 13, 2007Review: Genki Sushi & Steak
December 6, 2007Ask A Mexican
All good things come from Texas—in food, anyway
December 6, 2007Review: Sultan Café in Richardson
Skip the food and fire up a hookah instead
November 15, 2007Review: Luna de Noche
In excess
October 18, 2007The Haunting
Tradicion can't shake the ghost of restaurants past
September 13, 2007From Fino to Flan
The sherry, baby, will make you come out tonight to Café Madrid
August 9, 2007Veggie Girl: Green Papaya
Eddie GarzaThey say Green Papaya isn't authentic Vietnamese. I say: When I first moved to New York, my oldest friend introduced me to her cousin, who also lived there and was also a journalist. We hit it off immediately, and one of our shared passions--aside from writing, reading, watching Project Runway and mercilessly critiquing the fashion choices of half the people on the Upper West Side--was food. A very specific type of food, as it turned out, because every time we tried to try a new d
April 16, 2009
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