Subject: Foods

• We're Not Cranking

  June 4, 2009

• Curd Appeal

  Patrick MichelsWith the proliferation of high-end cheese shops, not to mention the thriving local cheese and dairy scene, it's pretty safe to say that Dallas has a taste for Stilton, cheddar, burrata--or any other variety, for that matter. Proof of that comes in the form of Scardello Artisan Cheese. When it opened a few months ago with--my God--120 American cheeses, plus accompaniments like Antipasti, Charcuterie and sweets. But now Scardello has gone beyond the storefront, offering classes

  February 19, 2009

• On The Range: Mexican Breakfasts

  Beans for breakfast? Are you kidding?Ah, but according to the indispensable tome The Tex-Mex Cookbook, here in the Lone Star State a pot of beans was often used to break a cowboy's fast on the long trail, whether plain (as preferred by eminent Texas writer J Frank Dobie) or with a little bacon and chile added.At some point, an enterprising mamacita got the bright idea of mashing them into a paste and frying them up with lard or bacon grease to create that Tex-Mex staple, refried beans.

  March 4, 2009

• Irish Spring Flings

  Patrick MichelsAs with other holidays, local restaurants are going all out with special St. Patrick's Day offerings for their customers on Tuesday. Urban Taco may not be the obvious choice for St. Patrick's Day revelry, but it's throwing its hat into the green ring for its lucky customers, serving a special St. Pat's chip & salsa trio. Let's see...guessing green, orange-ish and white. Looking for something a bit more authentic? The Tipperary Inn (5815 Live Oak at Skillman) opens at 11 a

  March 16, 2009

• Veggie Girl: Cosmic Cafe

  Fill in the blank: The best thing about Cosmic Café is... ...a deck of Tarot cards at every table. ...free yoga. ...unlimited mugs of soy chai. ...delicious plates of all-veggie food, whose prices all add up to multiples of nine. (We don't know why. We asked our waitress, and neither did she...but in Tarot, nine symbolizes completion of a cycle.) ...vegan cake! If you've been there, you know the answer: All of the above. At first, I didn't want to write about Cosmic Café because it seems f

  March 31, 2009

• Veggie Girl: Eatzi's

  A hat tip to the writers of Dude Food, who this February ensured that good ol' meat-eatin' men could dine successfully at Eatzi's. So, it turns out, can veggie-eating types. Eatzi's is one of those Oak Lawn institutions whose charming perks have given it staying power. It could be the outdoor patio with piped-in opera music, the surprisingly broad wine and bread selections, or simply the fact that it's one of few places where you feel European enough to kick back and have a glass of wine o

  April 2, 2009

• Dude Food: Rooster's Roadhouse

  Rooster's Roadhouse113 Industrial St., Denton940-382-4227Dude Factor: 10, or Brave Combo, on a scale of 1 (Don Henley) to 10.Last weekend I found myself at Denton's finest watering hole/music venue, Dan's Silverleaf, when I noticed a new restaurant called Rooster's a couple doors down. Just as I was walking up, some amigos spilled out and promptly vouched for this strange, new eatery, so naturally I took a between-band break with my lady to check it out.Let's just say the menu had me at "Bean &a

  April 7, 2009

• Maximo takes a lot of pride in its food. We're not sure why.

  April 9, 2009

• Veggie Girl: Nana

  It only took one vegetarian to convince Nana chef Anthony Bombaci to draw up a meat-free tasting menu. "They made reservations, they told us they were vegetarian and they paid for their food," Bombaci recalls. "And we served them meat." After their visit to Nana, Bombaci got a letter--"snail mail, not e-mail"--from one of the guests telling him how disappointed she was at the lack of vegetarian options on the menu. Then and there, he decided to create a menu that would not only accommodate v

  April 9, 2009

• How 'Bout Them Knockers: Izmir Market & Mediterranean Deli

  Izmir Market & Mediterranean Deli3607 Greenville Ave.Dallas, TX 75206214-824-8484Promised delivery time: 45 minutesActual delivery time: 40 minutesAmazing phone voice, lady version (I'll explain): 11Option for a side Greek salad instead of chips: 5Super-nice delivery dude: 10Large dose of snappy pickles: 13That first bite of cool hummus on warm, soft pita:17Filling entrees, allowing for weekend leftovers: 15An awesome dinner for what could be my last Izmir delivery: 27Total: 98Top TenIzmir M

  April 13, 2009

• Coast Global Seafood

  Skip the starters and dig right into the entrees

  February 12, 2009

• Zymology continues a Greenville Avenue trend

  April 23, 2009

• Dude Food: Tacos Chano's

  Google MapsTacos Chano's934 W. Jefferson Blvd.214-948-1846Dude Factor: 6, or "Cheap Floor Tiles" on a scale of 1 ("Montezuma's Revenge") to 10 ("Cheap Prescription Meds")One of my favorite things about visiting Mexico is haggling over the price of souvenirs. There's nothing like the rush of taking home a belt buckle marked $10 for only $6. You can't try it at Wal-Mart...at least not without looking like a jackass. But in the open-air markets of border towns, good old-fashioned negotiation is acc

  April 28, 2009

• Nick & Sam's Grill: Where Everybody Knows Your Name, or at Least Acts Like They Do

  May 7, 2009

• Veggie Girl: Mai's

  View Larger MapNothing about Mai's is bad. There are plenty of things that are weird, though: the racks of dog-eared issues of US Weekly and Cosmopolitan, the soft-rock instrumental remixes of "Don't Cry for Me, Argentina" and "Take My Breath Away," the organza curtains that barely hide the parking lot it shares with a taqueria called "El Bambi." But nothing's bad. The food is excellent, filling (huge portions, to a non-Texan) and easy on the pocketbook. The service was consistently friendly

  May 7, 2009

• At McAlister’s Deli, All You Need to Know is This: They Have Bacon. Mmm.

  May 14, 2009

• Dude Food: Chubby's Family Restaurant

  Chubby's Family Restaurant7474 S. Cockrell Hill RoadDude Factor: 8, or "Jack Palance in City Slickers" on a scale of 1 ("Harrison Ford in Indiana Jones And The Crystal Disappointment") to 10 ("Clint Eastwood in Unforgiven")Of all the billboards on the way to and from work, Chubby's Family Restaurant has my second-favorite, thanks to the friendly-looking cartoon chef's mustache and the restaurant's perfect anti-health-food name. My favorite is the very questionable pairing of the PSA "Alcohol. Th

  May 26, 2009

• Appetite For Instruction: Fisherman's Stew

  Recipe Demonstrated By Roseanne Dileo of The Libertine BarJesse HugheyRoseanne Dileo has been cooking at The Libertine Bar for about a year, following stints as a server and general manager at the beloved lower Greenville pub. As much as she liked front-of-house money, though, she says she prefers the relative calm of the kitchen (?). Dileo was kind enough to show us how to make one of the restaurant's featured plates. Simon McDonald, a partner in the restaurant and bar, says the Fisherman's Ste

  June 11, 2009

• Naughty is nice at Central 214

  June 11, 2009

• How 'Bout Them Knockers: Amico's Pizza & Pasta

  Each week in 'Knockers' we order from a different delivery restaurant, assessing their efficiency and keeping a running score.Amico's Pizza & Pasta4032 Cedar Springs214-520-1331Promised delivery time: None stated, and I didn't think to ask.Actual delivery time: 29:35 Phone friendliness: 20Not stating order total or ETA on phone: -15Delivery time well under my assumption of 45 minutes during lunch hour: 15French fries actually crispy and hot on arrival, to my wonder and amazement: 20Meatball

  June 15, 2009

• Veggie Girl: York St.

  Veggie Girl finds vegan and vegetarian options at Dallas establishments of all kinds. The column appears Tuesdays and Thursdays.I love a good storm. So when I woke up last Thursday to howling winds and sheets of furious rain, I resisted the urge to crawl back into bed and instead opted for staring raptly out my window, thrilled by the weather. As it turned out, that was the day's high point--until dinner, anyway. Leaving for work was fine; I wrapped myself in a ski jacket and shot out of the

  June 16, 2009

• Chocolate Confidential

  When one of the top pastry chefs in town hands you a chocolate bar and says she's in love, you listen. In fact, I believe Rhonda Ruckman's exact words about the Patric bar she gave to me yesterday were, "As far as Madagascar chocolate goes, this kicks Valrhona's ass."Rhonda RuckmanComing from this chef, that's a major endorsement. Formerly of Doughmonkey and currently of Square Market, Ruckman is known for her killer chocolate desserts, including chocolate chip cookies, gourmet chocolate can

  June 16, 2009

• Dude Food: Hook Line & Sinker

  Merritt MartinEach week the Dude Food guys assess the 'masculinity' of Dallas area dives. The more fried meat and junk on the walls, the better the rating...Hook Line & Sinker3103 Lemmon Ave.214-965-0707Dude Factor: 10, or anyone on Deadliest Catch, on a scale of 1, Steve Irwin, to 10.Between reading John Graves' Goodbye to a River and watching a marathon of Survivorman, I spent much of the weekend salivating over the thought of freshly caught fish sizzling over a waterside fire. (Inse

  June 16, 2009

• So What Exactly Are You Eating When You Order Fajitas In A Tex-Mex Restaurant?

  June 18, 2009

• On The Range: Guacamole

  On The Range is a weekly exploration of the history and lore of Texas menu items. Jon Sullivan"Was there ever a fruit as sensual as the avocado? So rough-hewn, dare-to-touch-me masculine on the outside, so yielding, inviting, soft spring green and feminine inside?...It's no wonder that this perfect fruit begs to be mashed to enhance its melting, natural spreadable quality...Avocado flesh by itself has an unctuous quality and subtle flavor--no need to dilute it." Wow. The above undiluted des

  June 24, 2009

• Veggie Girl: Toy's Cafe

  A real hole in the wall.Sure, I love the high life. But I'm kind of a sucker for the hole-in-the-wall, too. In fact, it's really just the middling places--the Golden Corral's of the world--that bug me. It's the Groucho Marx effect.You know: "I refuse to join any club that would have me as a member." Anyway, in search of good, cheap Thai food and banking on the chance that there'd be something for a vegan there, I ventured recently to Toy's Café on Lemmon, a 20-year-old (who knew?) bona fid

  June 30, 2009

• Veggie Girl: Houston's

  This week, Veggie Girl braved the crowds of plastically enhanced Women Who Lunch to try out Houston's. Rumored to have one of the best house-made veggie burgers in Dallas, Houston's is part of the Hillstone Restaurant quasi-chain that includes R D, across the street in Preston Center, and a few others scattered from Manhattan to Palm Beach. I knew, in other words, that it wouldn't be cheap, but I was determined to try the veggie burger. The servers at Houston's wear all black, with black a

  July 2, 2009

• Hophead: When Pairing Beer, The Sommelier Is Helpful...Sometimes

  Mikal Beth HugheyGreat Brewers recently launched its "Beer Sommelier," an online program that purports to pair beers to a variety of meats, grains, vegetables, cheeses, breads and sweets. "Masterfully select the best beer styles to pair with any dish," the Web site boasts. With the Libertine Bar's Brass Knuckle Corn Dog Beatdown set for Saturday, it seemed an ideal opportunity to find out what beers would best complement a battered and deep-fried frankfurter. That's when the first problem arose:

  July 2, 2009

• First Look: Roasters New York Deli

  ​Of all the perceived gaps in Dallas' huge, yet largely homogenous selection of restaurants, none has received such passionate attention as the absence of a true New York-style deli. Acceptable and even exceptional versions have come and gone, and one passable local deli-style restaurant is packed all weekend long. Yet the public still craves more. Where, they ask, are the mile-high sandwiches, the real-deal bagels and chicken soup like Svetlana used to make? Two newcomers are poised to

  July 27, 2009

• First Look: Zinsky's Delicatessen & Catering

  ​Zinsky's was hoppin'. On one of its first days of service, the New York-style deli from Mark Brezinski (Pei Wei, Bengal Coast) and Liz and Jim Baron (Blue Mesa Grill) was packed with businessmen, grandmothers herding broods of kids and folks from the surrounding North Dallas neighborhoods. We even saw a priest. It seems that nobody could wait for a cup of chicken soup, a pastrami on rye or a big plate of matzo brie for breakfast.

  August 5, 2009

• A Taste of 10 Dallas Milkshakes

  Europeans have fresh, seasonal foods, universal health care and about 30 weeks of vacation each year. But we have milkshakes.OK--so they serve a literal version: milk shaken with some flavoring. Ours involve ice cream, crammed into a glass and churned with a little milk (or, better yet, cream) into a thick, heavy mass. No fitting into Speedos after a couple of American shakes.To us, the best shakes strike a difficult balance: thick enough to stand a spoon in but thin enough to draw through a str

  August 5, 2009

• Take Me To Your Feeder

  visitrenotahoe.com​We've all got our minds on comfort food right now. Just check out the TV. Or the newspapers, the food blogs or any restaurant menu for proof. When times are tight, folks turn to tried and true, deep fried, gravy-covered favorites for a pick-me-up at the end of a long day. We want the good stuff just like Mom used to make, and in big ol' portions fit for a growing boy or girl. To that end, we've listed a few picks for strapping on the comfort food feed bag when you're s

  August 10, 2009

• Cupcakes On The Schedule

  The folks from Sprinkles just sent a box of cupcakes and a press release. The cupcakes feature a blue star on white icing (though the cake itself is the color of algae). The press release speaks of their arrangement with the Dallas Cowboys.Apparently if you buy these Cowboys-themed cupcakes (from Sept. 12 through Sept. 19), they will donate 100 percent of the purchase price to the Salvation Army.Good deal. But associating the Dallas Cowboys with cupcakes? Someone didn't think this one through.

  August 11, 2009

• On The Range: Ceviche

  Ledelboy​On The Range is a weekly exploration of the history and lore of Texas menu items.Ceviche is marinated seafood, so it should come as no surprise that Mexico and nearly every country in Central and South America with a coastline features it in their cuisine.In an article entitled 'The Many Incarnations of Ceviche,' food writer Jami English compares the dish to Japanese sashimi and Italian crudo as an exhibition of the beauty of local seafood in its purest state. "Peruvian ceviche is ar

  August 12, 2009

• Veggie Guy: Suma Veggie Cafe

  ​"Puff balls." That's what one of my non-veg friends calls the Orange "Chicken" at Suma Veggie Cafe. No--the guy's not the brightest bulb on the block, but others unfamiliar with vegan meat substitutes might also find it difficult to describe the glazed balls of who-knows-what...although, I now have a funny feeling the owners don't want you to know. Suma Veggie Cafe is a Chinese restaurant in Richardson that is not new to local veg-heads--it's been around for over a decade and, up until Spi

  August 13, 2009

• Veggie Guy: Roy's Natural Market

  ​After a rough Saturday night--I'll spare you the details, but I will say this: there was much vodka involved--Sunday's hangover carried into Monday. Tuesday--still not human. So I got online to Tweet about my misery. Then I saw a Tweet from one of my raw food friends that read, "Alcohol acts as a depressant on your brain. Your senses dull, and your perceptions become distorted." Another followed. "You can't process information as quickly. You think that the world is moving slower than it r

  August 20, 2009

• Veggie Guy: Asian Mint

  Fresh spring rolls.​My good friend Sara and I met a few years ago at a yoga class. We instantly hit it off, and started doing everything together...grocery shopping, dining, working out. She even moved into my building. But over the past couple of months, we've both been on crazy schedules. No more hanging out. Not even a quick phone call. So imagine my surprise when Sara called to tell me she got engaged to some guy named JJ! What?!? How did this happen? I've never even met the guy! Well

  August 27, 2009

• Veggie Guy: Vegan-Friendly Tex Mex Chains

  Latin stir fry at Mi Cocina.​A lot of people ask me where they can get some good vegan Tex-Mex around town. I usually guide them to Monica's, where vegans can get the best enchiladas in Dallas, but I understand that driving down to Deep Ellum isn't always practical...especially if you're on the wrong other side of the loop. These are my picks for vegan-friendly Tex-Mex joints with multiple locations: Mattito's: The Lite Vegetable Fajitas are steamed vegetables (broccoli, cauliflower, squash,

  September 1, 2009

• Veggie Guy: Sweet Tomatoes

  The minestrone at Sweet Tomatoes in Irving.​Our Lisa Petty likes to poke fun at me about my avoidance of salads. "Do you EVER eat salads?" she snarks. But I do eat my fair share...only I'm not usually happy about it. Allow me to explain where I'm coming from. I was a Golden Corral kid. There was nothing better on a Sunday afternoon than gorging on fried chicken carcass and a baked potato overflowing with butter, cheddar, and bacon. My mother always made sure I'd start off with a salad, thou

  September 3, 2009

• Veggie Guy: Vegan Chocolate Confections

  ​Chocolate--that's my kryptonite. Nothing makes me weaker in the knees than feasting on a chocolate dessert after dinner! My ancestors sure knew what they were doing by using the magical cacao bean as currency back in the day. But so many Dallas confectioners bastardize their chocolate creations by incorporating dairy, eggs, and other animal-based ingredients. No, thanks! So where CAN vegans find chocolaty happy endings in Dallas? Well--let's take a tour of Dallas' vegan dessert scene. Cos

  September 10, 2009

• Jen's Place Bakery & Cafe

  September 24, 2009

• On The Range: Tortas

  ​On The Range is a weekly exploration of the history and lore of Texas menu items.No matter that you haven't read the strip in many years, or even if you've never perused the comic that has been a staple of the funny papers across the country for over 70 years, you still probably know that Dagwood Bumstead snacks on impossibly tall sandwiches. Perhaps you've even eaten a Dagwood sandwich yourself, wondering all the while how a man rapidly approaching middle age can consume such humongous thin

  October 7, 2009

• Veggie Guy: Vegan 'Month Of Food'

  ​In the vegan world, we're in what's known as "VeganMoFo." No, not what you think--it's a global event that stands for "Vegan Month of Food." We celebrate VeganMoFo to encourage our omnivorous friends to try animal-free eats for an entire month. Not an easy feat here in Dallas--you know, considering... But October also marks the beginning of baking season for most people, and many of those recipes that have been handed down through generations usually call for milk, eggs, butter, and other a

  October 8, 2009

• Veggie Guy: NAAN

  ​Ok--I'll admit it. The Shops at Legacy are pretty cool. Now if only they weren't all the way up in freakin' Oklahoma...erm...I mean Plano. I met up with my vegan buddy Drew at Legacy NAAN last week, where he'd set up a multiple-course vegan food tasting. It's located in the "old side [of the shops]," as one cougar standing outside of Fox Sports Grill put it. "Geez--I thought Dallas was bad about calling relatively new things 'old'!" "Oh c'mon, dude--the suburbs aren't THAT bad!" argued Dre

  October 13, 2009

• In a City of Gaudy Prime Beef Palaces, Dragonfly Has No Problem Laying Claim to "Best Steaks in Dallas."

  October 15, 2009

• Appetite For Instruction: Farmer's Market Burger With Grilled Onion Relish

  ​Recipe demonstrated by Amy Green, 2nd place in Sutter Home Build a Better Burger Contest Football season is in full swing. With football season comes game day food, and what's the best game day food? Burgers...and of course, hot dogs and chips. But let's focus on meat patties today. Amy Green recently returned back to Dallas after a long weekend in Napa Valley with $500 extra in her pocket . It was all work, though. She was there to win the alternative (non-beef) burger competition for the

  October 15, 2009

• Veggie Guy: Gluten-Free Vegan Joints

  A gluten-free vegan cookie.​Omnivores tend to think of veganism as a highly restrictive, complicated way to live. Considering vegans have cut out meat, dairy, eggs, and all other animal products from their diets, they're sorta right--especially here in the land of beef. So imagine what it's like for vegans with an intolerance to gluten. Now that's gotta be rough! Local vegan Alise St. Germain doesn't have to imagine it. Her severe gluten intolerance and ethical choice to follow a vegan diet

  October 20, 2009

• If Memory Serves: Steak And Kidney Pie

  ​If Memory Serves chronicles moments from my dining past, perhaps explaining why I'm so damn strange.We lived just off Hampstead High Street in London. This was back in the days when Brits in search of a decent meal headed for French restaurants. On trains you could buy tomato and butter sandwiches on bland white bread. Shops wrapped fish and chips in a day's worth of newspaper to soak up grease. And in the pubs you could order iffy black puddings and organ meat pies. Maybe that's why the

  October 20, 2009

• Chocolate vs Fruit-Flavored: Halloween Fun-Size Candy Free-For-All

  Alex Flores​For this week's food fight, we asked a group of UNT students to buy bags of Halloween candy--"promising" to reimburse them, of course--pour them out on one of those dorm study tables and start munching. They picked up Fun Size Butterfinger, Baby Ruth and Nestle Crunch bars, Skittles, Starburst chews and Tootsie Rolls...though oddly enough, no Candy Corn. The results:Halloween is the perfect time of year for Americans to temporarily ditch their diets and rot their teeth out in one

  October 29, 2009

• Veggie Guy: Madras Pavilion

  ​May seem bizarre to some that I would compare a South Indian dinner to my Mexican grandmother's breakfast taquitos, but that's exactly what came to mind while chowing down on my potato-filled dosa at Madras Pavilion. Growing up, my brother Michael and I hated eggs. Still do, in fact. Whenever Grandma would incorporate chicken placenta into our meals, we'd about lose our shit! Eventually she caught on and began experimenting with spices and add-ins to make our meals look and taste as lively

  November 5, 2009