North-American Food and Cooking

  • Blogs

    February 26, 2014

    Searching Dallas for Huitlacoche, AKA the "Corn Smut" on That Quesadilla

    The first time I encountered huitlacoche in Dallas I was at a Café Momentum dinner featuring chef Abraham Salum. The bowl had a beautiful corn chowder, if I recall, and was garnished with the tiniest dab of huitlacoche -- barely enough to emit the faintest aroma and a bit of a tease if you're a fan ... More >>

  • Blogs

    October 7, 2013

    North Carolina-Based Salsarita's Plans to Show Dallas How to Do Mexican Food

    Late last month, the Dallas Business Journal reported that a Mexican chain restaurant would be making its way to Dallas in the near future. While this may initially sound as newsworthy as the latest pothole to open up downtown, Salsarita's got its start in Charlotte, North Carolina. An east coast ... More >>

  • Blogs

    May 3, 2013

    The 14 Best Spots to Get Cheap Food and Drinks on Cinco De Mayo in Dallas

    It's certainly not a weekend for lightweights. Leave your fanny pack at the house and imbibe in many of the options around town as we collectively celebrate General Ignacio Zaragoza Seguín's defeat of the French in 1862 in the Battle of Puebla during the Franco-Mexican War. Despite the fiesta, many ... More >>

  • Blogs

    January 29, 2013

    Mia's Gets Shunned In Two Top-Nine Tex-Mex Restaurant Lists

    When I put together a list of the nine best Tex-Mex restaurants back in December, commenters jumped right in with passionate opinions. Ambelleina Warwillow was so incensed, she used my post as fodder for an official break-up. "NO MIA'S?!" she wrote. "Dallas Observer, we're OVER." See Also: - The Ni ... More >>

  • Blogs

    December 7, 2011

    Dallas' Five Best Tex-Mex Restaurants

    ​While barbecue is certainly important foodstuff in the Lone Star State, it has roots in many other areas of the country and world. But Tex-Mex has been jacking up G.I. Tracts here for 100 years -- long before the rest of the country bastardized our already-bastardized signature cuisine. Thes ... More >>

  • Blogs

    November 21, 2011

    Peanut Butter in a Cocktail, and Other Worthy Discoveries from the Bar at Mesa

    It's a Tuesday night in the O.C., and Mesa is abuzz with a low murmur of conversation. Three couples and a group of four populate the soft brown velour banquettes and chairs; with only 40 seats, four tables is enough for the place to feel alive. We take a seat at the gray concrete bar and rest our ... More >>

  • Blogs

    May 10, 2011

    Chipotle Serves Up a Mean Impromptu Quesadilla

    Chipotle's quesadilla.​Here at City of Ate we heard murmurs that, despite not having it on their menu, Chipotle can actually whip up a pretty darn good quesadilla, and we had to see and taste it for ourselves. We awkwardly asked for a quesadilla, and the staff happily obliged. The woman behi ... More >>

  • Blogs

    May 5, 2011

    Five Tortillerias That Trump Tequila

    ​Today, we celebrate the victory of Mexican armed forces over the French. The event is usually honored with copious amounts of sour margaritas and bad Tex-Mex food. Take, for example, the Bob Armstrong Queso-eating contest at Mattito's Uptown. Not all must be sour day-glo beverages and paperw ... More >>

  • Dining

    April 21, 2011
  • Dining

    April 14, 2011
  • Dining

    April 7, 2011
  • Dining

    March 24, 2011
  • Dining

    March 24, 2011
  • Blogs

    March 7, 2011

    10 Cheap Party Spots for Fat Tuesday

    ​ You don't need an excuse to party tomorrow night because it's Fat Tuesday, the official holiday of fatty foods, booze and general debauchery. Restaurants and bars are offering some cheap food and drink deals, but unfortunately many of them are amping up their Fat Tuesday festivities with c ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 3, 2011

    New Vegan Enchilada Buzz at BEE

    ​Based on the constantly buzzing (ha!) parking lot, and the word of mouth (some call it buzz) about BEE: Best Enchiladas Ever, it's become clear that the Oak Cliff counter-service enchiladeria is a neighborhood and willing-commuter favorite. People dig the options, the service, the people behind i ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 25, 2011

    Cool & Hot is Sweet

    Jose Ralat Maldanado​My 2-year-old son loves three things: cars; his teddy bear, Rupert; and tacos. So, after a morning spent at a local vintage and custom car show, tacos were in order, this time at Cool & Hot. The Oak Cliff taquería inhabits a converted gas station with an operational car w ... More >>

  • Dining

    February 17, 2011
  • Dining

    October 21, 2010
  • Music

    January 14, 2010
  • Blogs

    May 6, 2009

    On The Range: Chicken Tortilla Soup

    Mexican cooks reuse leftovers like nobody's business. Consider the plight of the frugal family in days of yore, north or south of the border. The basics of life--shelter and food--are not certainties. Since the beginning of farming, rural families learned not to toss any part of a plant or animal t ... More >>

  • Blogs

    April 29, 2009

    On The Range: Chimichangas

    Toasted monkey or [expletive deleted]? These are the two prevailing definitions for the origin of the term chimichanga, that ever-popular fried burrito that has become a staple at Tex-Mex establishments.Chimichangas may have originated as early as the 1940's, when cooks at a bar in Nogales, Arizona ... More >>

  • Blogs

    April 14, 2009

    Dude Food: Rosita's Restaurant & Catering

    Rosita's Restaurant & Catering4906 Maple Ave.214-521-4741Dude Factor: 8, or "Cantinflas" on a scale of 1 ("Carlos Mencia") to 10 ("Cheech Marin")Looking to try something new for a cheap and fast lunch, an amigo and I decided to try out Rosita's. The joint is just minutes from the Observer office ... More >>

  • Blogs

    April 1, 2009

    On The Range: Tortillas

    Corn or flour?Depends on the filling. This comes from Alison Cook, author of "Taco Capitol, USA," a groundbreaking Texas Monthly cover story on the subject of Tex-Mex cuisine, who notes that while flour tortillas are better suited to Northern Mexico-style grilled meats and to breakfast tacos, "certa ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 25, 2009

    On The Range: Enchiladas

    Let's face it: A true Tex-Mex establishment succeeds or fails on the strength of its enchiladas. I realize I'm speaking only for myself, at least as far as popular dishes go. Many patrons of an El-or-La-something-or-other (as Rosemary Kent dubbed Tex-Mex restaurants in her Genuine Texas Handbook, r ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 4, 2009

    On The Range: Mexican Breakfasts

    Beans for breakfast? Are you kidding?Ah, but according to the indispensable tome The Tex-Mex Cookbook, here in the Lone Star State a pot of beans was often used to break a cowboy's fast on the long trail, whether plain (as preferred by eminent Texas writer J Frank Dobie) or with a little bacon and c ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 2, 2009

    Happy Independence Day, Buckaroos

    Earlier this year, Cowboy Chow rolled out its recession menu. Today, prices plummet even lower in honor of Texas Independence Day. Yup, it has been 173 years since the Lone Star state broke from Mexico and declared itself a republic. So Cowboy Chow is offering tacos for $1.73 each. Chef Jason Bos ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 25, 2009

    On The Range: Combination Plates

    Let's get one thing straight: Tex-Mex has never pretended to represent Mexican cuisine in its entirety. In fact, according to Robb Walsh, author of The Tex-Mex Cookbook, the genre was developed by Euro-American descendants and Hispanics living in Texas (Tejanos)--and was designed to be marketed to g ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 18, 2009

    On The Range: Fajitas

    I made a rather startling discovery while continuing my quest into the origins of Tex-Mex. For some reason I had assumed fajitas were a California addition, perhaps because of their ready adoption in to the presumably healthier Cal-Mex lineup. But no--legend credits Ninfa's in Houston, although ac ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 11, 2009

    On The Range: West Texas Enchiladas

    The first of a series documenting Chris Meesey's personal quest for authentic Tex-Mex. But we'll let him tell you more... I'm a genu-wine Texan, born and bred. In fact, I began life at Nix Hospital, San Antonio--less than one mile from The Alamo, the acknowledged epicenter of the Texas Universe. Ho ... More >>

  • Blogs

    November 6, 2008

    Kids Eat The Darndest Things: Los Lupes, Duncanville

    For this inaugural edition of Kids Eat…11 year-old Iris and 6 year-old Lyle traveled, with quite a bit of adult assistance, to Los Lupes III, one of the local Tex-Mex chain’s seven franchise locations. The basics: Iris opted for the chicken kids fajitas ($5.99), featuring a generous serving of ... More >>

  • Dining

    August 31, 2006

    Gumbo Rune

    DaZa offers a dash of Creole poetry

  • Dining

    February 17, 2005

    Chili-ing Out

    Why can't they make Texas food outside Texas?

  • Dining

    January 10, 2002


    Order the coffee black; you'll need it at the dull Z'Tejas Southwestern Grill

  • Dining

    October 11, 2001

    Born-again Baja

    Baja California Grill transforms itself again

  • Dining

    December 21, 2000

    Taco Star

    Taqueria Cañonita

  • Dining

    August 5, 1999

    Mix-ican food

    Cabo tries to redefine taqueria

  • Dining

    March 5, 1998

    Boonies kitsch

    Theme-soaked La Hacienda Ranch is worth the drive to Frisco

  • Dining

    June 12, 1997
  • Dining

    December 12, 1996

    Transcendent Tex-Mex

    Casa Rosa defends its turf with an exceptional take on Dallas' favorite cuisine

  • Dining

    November 21, 1996
  • Dining

    July 25, 1996

    Cajun quest

    Good cuisine--even if it involves bathtubs of boiling oil-- never goes out of style

  • Dining

    May 9, 1996

    Taco of the town

    Tupinamba deserves its spot in Tex-Metroplex history

  • Dining

    January 18, 1996
  • Dining

    October 19, 1995

    Tex-Mex time warp

    Oak Cliff's Tejano hasn't changed its menu in 14 years, and they're proud of it

  • Dining

    September 7, 1995

    Our house

    Sit down with the Avila family for a plate of real comfort food

  • Dining

    August 24, 1995

    Los Vaqueros time machine

    And who the hell is George Poston?

  • Dining

    May 25, 1995

    The boy next door

    Javier's has been around so long, it's easy to overlook. Here's why you shouldn't

  • Dining

    March 2, 1995


    Dallas' favorite secret stakes a home north of the Trinity-- with wonderful results

  • Dining

    February 16, 1995

    Tex-Mex chauvinist

    Only arrogant New Yorkers would confuse calamari and quesadillas; and, yes, Rafa's has the real thing

  • Dining

    December 1, 1994

    Comforts of old Mexico

    Casa Navarro reincarnates one of Dallas' original Tex-Mex restaurants

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