Robb Walsh

  • Blogs

    March 5, 2014

    Ranch Doesn't Belong on Pizza, Because Ranch Doesn't Belong on Pizza

    Mark this as the week Jay Jerrier blew up the Internet. Again. The owner of three Cane Rosso pizzerias has long made known his disapproval for ranch dressing as a condiment for Neapolitan pies, going so far as to offer customers a bottle of Hidden Valley for the low price of $1,000. Recently, tho ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 11, 2014

    Are Beans Allowed? And Other Important Questions about Texas Chili While It's Relevant.

    It's still cold out, if you haven't noticed. And as long as the mercury is low and the skies are gray, American kitchens will be filled with the smells of chili. We proved as much right here, when a quick scan of the Lakewood Whole Foods determined onions, canned tomatoes and ground beef -- the buil ... More >>

  • Blogs

    May 24, 2013

    LARK, Carbone's and Barbacoa: This Week In Dallas Dining

    The unofficial start of summer is here, and the three-day weekend promises smoldering grills, coolers full of beer, and if you stumble over to 20 Feet this weekend quick enough, the first of this season's soft-shell crabs. Let's get this week wrapped up. This week I reviewed Lark on the Park and ga ... More >>

  • Blogs

    May 10, 2013

    Nachos, Failed Milk Bills and Sushi Cats: This Week In Dallas Dining

    Busy week in Dallas dining news. I'll cut to the chase and get right to it. This week I wrote about Craft and Growler, the beer filling station that's become a hub for local craft beer enthusiasts. If you're looking to explore the exploding local beer scene here in Dallas, C&G is a good place to do ... More >>

  • Blogs

    April 4, 2013

    Burning Questions for Pecan Lodge's Husband and Wife Duo, Justin and Diane Fourton

    Each week (or thereabout) we ask a local chef three burning questions about his or her favorite culinary reads, food shames and best (or worst) meals. This week, we hear from Boss Lady and Pitmaster, Diane and Justin Fourton of Pecan Lodge. 1. What are your three favorite cookbooks? The Tex-Mex Co ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 14, 2013

    Ramen Slowly Taking Over Dallas and the Rest of Texas

    Earlier this week Robb Walsh predicted a tsunami of ramen on his blog Texas Eats, but the deluge has already started here in Dallas. News that a dedicated ramen restaurant called Tanoshi Ramen would grace Deep Ellum with steaming bowls of noodles broke late last year. That restaurant is expect to op ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 1, 2013

    Bar Food, Bar Food and More Bar Food: This Week in Dallas Dining

    Another weekend is here. If you need plans be sure to check out Lauren's picks for food inspired weekend activities. And don't forget to support your local farmers. White Rock Local Market kicks of the season this Saturday as well. This week I reviewed Outpost American Tavern. The recent spin on t ... More >>

  • Blogs

    January 25, 2013

    Standard Pour, Stampede 66 and Hot Sauce: This Week In Dallas Dining

    It was a busy week on CoA. Lots of comments on lots of posts. I reviewed The Standard Pour and didn't like it, and then to make up for things I cooked a delicious steak in my fireplace. (A few commenters thought this was a bad idea, and I agree, but I just might do it again anyway.) Elsewhere on th ... More >>

  • Blogs

    September 28, 2012

    Blog Wars, Tacos, And #Fryit: This Week In Dallas Dining

    Ready for opening weekend at the State Fair? Or perhaps you're headed to Greek Fest instead to smash plates and drink Fix beer. Either way there's plenty of excuses to kick back with a cold brew this weekend, but before we get started, I've got a week to wrap up. This week I blissfully reviewed not ... More >>

  • Blogs

    July 6, 2012

    Markets, Pho, Limey's and BBQ: This Week In Dallas Food Blogging

    This week I reviewed Dalat, a new Pho place on Fitzhugh Avenue that stays open late and takes a whimsical approach to Vietnamese cooking. I also took a closer look at Gandolfo's, the deli truck that hails from NYC. Elsewhere on CoA we noted the opening of Ten Bells Tavern, a new bar in Oak Cliff, a ... More >>

  • Blogs

    April 27, 2012

    Spring Vegetables, Spring Festivals and Lots of Tequila: The Week In Dallas Eating

    More festivals this weekend. The 6th Annual Real Texas Festival kicks off today. I wasn't around for it last year, but Nick Rallo was and he gave the event a ringing endorsement. There are worse ways to spend your time than sampling barbecue from entrants chasing a $500 grand champion prize. Things ... More >>

  • Blogs

    April 13, 2012

    The Cheap Bastard For The Win: The Week in Unicorn Farts and Dallas Food

    The weekend is here, and it promises to be a good one with the Big Texas Beer Fest offering craft brews for the masses. I'm sure you guys want to get it started as much as I do, but first there's a week to wrap. This week I reviewed Company Cafe. The restaurant has some great qualities and will hop ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 30, 2012

    Beer, Taco Wars, and Matt McCallister: This Week In Dallas Dining

    Last week seemed slow: I could hardly find any stories to string together into a Lettuce wrap up. This week, however, I'm having trouble deciding how to fit all of these interesting stories in. Happy hour's in only getting closer, so I better cut to the chase. This was the week of pink slime for Ci ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 17, 2012

    With the Red Tide Receding, It's Time To Eat Some Texas Oysters

    ​Finally. We've been covering the red tide outbreak and its effect on oyster harvesting in the gulf for some time now. Last week the news finally shifted toward the positive. Many regions of the Texas Gulf shore have been opened to oyster fisherman. I talked with Chris Van Deusen, spokeswoman ... More >>

  • Blogs

    December 21, 2011

    The Marquee Grill's Shrimp and Grits Stand with Dallas' Best

    ​Shrimp and grits, the low-country fisherman's breakfast staple, has been a mainstay on elevated southern menus for more than three decades. If you're interested, Robb Walsh wrote up a history on the dish over on the Houston Press, but regardless of the lineage of the dish, its permanence as a ... More >>

  • Blogs

    November 2, 2011

    There Are No Texas Oysters in Your Near Future

    Steven Doyle​Houston-based food journalist Robb Walsh wrote yesterday about the red tide outbreak, which has caused the delayed opening of Texas' oyster beds. Oyster harvesting was closed until further notice by the Texas Department of Health State Services (DSHS) on October 26, leaving Walsh ... More >>

  • Blogs

    October 17, 2011

    Texas-Themed Cookbooks for Your Counter

    ​Robb Walsh and the folks at Ten Speed Press are putting together Texas Eats: The New Lone Star Heritage Cookbook. Walsh's latest, a "colorful and deeply personal blend of history, anecdotes and recipes," comes on the heels of several cookbooks compiling Tex-Mex, barbecue, cowboy cookery and o ... More >>

  • Blogs

    September 7, 2011

    Learning To Love Gulf Oysters at S&D Oyster Company

    ​ My McKinney Avenue walk was more than just a bar crawl. I also checked an item off my list I've been avoiding. I could say that I've been waiting till September to enjoy the delicacy I enjoyed many times before, but really I'd been using the old rule as an excuse. I was afraid of Gulf oysters.Ro ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 21, 2011

    Dallas Restaurants Shut Out of James Beard Contest

    Come to think of it, maybe we should have marked up the picture here instead.​Dallas chefs and restaurants, which collected an impressive five semi-finalist spots in this year's James Beard Foundation awards competition, today were shut out of the contest's final round. Stephen Pyles, The Man ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 28, 2011

    Oyster Appellations Return to the Gulf Coast

    More than a century ago, there wasn't any such thing as a "gulf oyster." Oysters were offered under specific place names -- a tradition revived this weekend at the first Foodways Texas symposium in Galveston. Jenny Wang​The program wasn't devoted entirely to oysters: Kelly Yandell, one of a f ... More >>

  • Blogs

    December 20, 2010

    Foodways Texas and Smoke Let You
    Step Out of Your Shell

    ​One of the best invitations I've received this year was an e-mail beckoning me to College Station for the founding of Foodways Texas. Now, you too have the opportunity to support the organization, as august a group of chefs, food writers, scholars, fishermen, pitmasters, chuckwagon cooks and ... More >>

  • Blogs

    October 22, 2010

    Though Untainted by Oil, Texas Gulf Fisheries Still Suffer BP Spill's Effect

    ​Seafood industry watchers say it's still too early to assess the long-term effects of this summer's gulf oil spill, but agree the disaster spelled a setback for Texas' fishermen, oystermen and shrimpers. Speaking at a panel this morning at the Southern Foodways Alliance's annual symposium, f ... More >>

  • Blogs

    September 23, 2010

    100 Favorite Dishes: Elvis Green Chile Fried Chicken at Chuy's

    ​To celebrate Dallas Observer's "Best of Dallas" 2010, available this week, City of Ate is serving up 100 of the favorite dishes we crave, savor and hope to scarf down again soon. These dishes are in no particular order. Some are little known, others celebrated. Some are pricey, others can be ... More >>

  • News

    August 12, 2010
  • Blogs

    August 11, 2010

    Reading List: Four Food-ish Books to Complete Your Summer

    ​It's not just students who feel rushed to finish their summer reading lists in the last few weeks of August: Adult readers who've lugged the same books back and forth from the pool are hurrying their way through the novels and memoirs they had every intention of reading this season. But for ... More >>

  • Blogs

    July 15, 2010

    Foodways Texas Drafts Recipe to Celebrate Lone Star Cuisine

    There's a lot to learn about Texas food. Might as well start with the basics.​The Southern Foodways Alliance, an 800-member organization that's stimulated serious scholarly discussion of barbecue and pinto beans; produced dozens of movies on edible topics ranging from Sazeracs to pig ear sandw ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 3, 2010

    On the Range: Chalupas

    Wikimedia photo​Chalupas or tostadas? Sometimes it's hard to tell the difference. Of course you know what constitutes a tostada. That's a flat, crispy disc made from corn, then loaded with all sorts of freight including lettuce, tomatoes, beans or meat, cheese, possibly pico or crema, and topped ... More >>

  • Blogs

    January 27, 2010

    On The Range: Lengua

    Sorry, we couldn't stop ourselves.​On The Range is a weekly exploration of the history and lore of Texas menu items.Nobody gets tongue tied when the subject is, um, tongue.Writing in the Weekly Volcano (Tacoma and Olympia Washington's "only edgy, irreverent, and thought-provoking alternative news ... More >>

  • News

    November 19, 2009
  • Blogs

    November 9, 2009

    A Year On The Blog

    This time last year Patrick Michels' talent was already apparent.​A year ago we launched City of Ate--an event of such importance we forgot completely about the anniversary, which was last week.In announcing he could no longer remain anonymous, Houston Press critic Robb Walsh mentioned that he was ... More >>

  • Blogs

    October 14, 2009

    On The Range: Huaraches

    Ooops...wrong image.​On The Range is a weekly exploration of the history and lore of Texas menu items."If everybody had an ocean/Across the U.S.A/Then everybody'd be surfin'/Like Californ-I-a/You'd see 'em wearing their baggies/Huarache sandals too..." Despite the popularity brought to them by ... More >>

  • Blogs

    September 16, 2009

    On The Range: Migas

    PedroserafinA Spanish version of migas.​On The Range is a weekly exploration of the history and lore of Texas menu items.Eggs, tortilla strips, onions, chiles, and cheese. Or bread, oil & vinegar, spinach, alfalfa, and....licorice flavoring?? Believe it or not, these are some of the raw ingre ... More >>

  • News

    June 26, 2009
  • Blogs

    June 3, 2009

    On The Range: Cabrito

    Goats helped settle America. Not kidding: According to Robb Walsh, author of The Tex-Mex Cookbook, goats were the preferred diet of common folk in Europe, so when Columbus sailed to the New World on his second voyage in 1493 he brought goats for meat, cheese, and milk--along with Spanish sheph ... More >>

  • Blogs

    May 13, 2009

    On The Range: Guisado

    What's in a name? Unless I miss my guess, the guy who first coined the expression must have been thinking about guisado, a Mexican branch of the stew family. Why is this the case? You can answer the question by trying a simple experiment. Think about beef stew. What images does it evoke? If y ... More >>

  • Blogs

    May 6, 2009

    On The Range: Chicken Tortilla Soup

    Mexican cooks reuse leftovers like nobody's business. Consider the plight of the frugal family in days of yore, north or south of the border. The basics of life--shelter and food--are not certainties. Since the beginning of farming, rural families learned not to toss any part of a plant or animal t ... More >>

  • Blogs

    April 15, 2009

    On The Range: Chili Con Carne

    Given the popularity of chili, this was probably inevitable.Chili con carne, better known as chili for short, was named Official State Dish of Texas back in the late 1970s. Why chili and not barbecue or steak? According to Paul Burka, political writer, food guru, and all-around reside ... More >>

  • Blogs

    April 1, 2009

    On The Range: Tortillas

    Corn or flour?Depends on the filling. This comes from Alison Cook, author of "Taco Capitol, USA," a groundbreaking Texas Monthly cover story on the subject of Tex-Mex cuisine, who notes that while flour tortillas are better suited to Northern Mexico-style grilled meats and to breakfast tacos, "certa ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 25, 2009

    On The Range: Enchiladas

    Let's face it: A true Tex-Mex establishment succeeds or fails on the strength of its enchiladas. I realize I'm speaking only for myself, at least as far as popular dishes go. Many patrons of an El-or-La-something-or-other (as Rosemary Kent dubbed Tex-Mex restaurants in her Genuine Texas Handbook, r ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 20, 2009

    Burning Question: What's Going On At City Of Ate?

    Hey, wait a minute...this is a government waste disposal schedule.Someone posted a comment under our new Veggie Girl segment this week wanting some kind of alert when the column pops up--RSS, we think they called it.The Burning Question crew, of course, knows nothing about technology...which is prob ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 18, 2009

    On The Range: Bar-Mex (Nachos, Chips And Stuff Like That)

    Most of us--well, most non-Hispanics, anyway--have been eating nachos for many years without a clue as to where the term originated. You see, in Tejano culture, "Nacho" is merely the nickname for Ignacio, a rather common name in Spanish-speaking households. And according to Robb Walsh and his Tex-M ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 11, 2009

    On The Range: Tamales

    Pig's head tamales?Well, yes. Robb Walsh notes in his Tex-Mex cookbook that traditional emporiums use pig's heads as their base meat when making their husky creations. The head is boiled until the meat and lard cook away, then the broth is used to moisten the masa harina (corn meal infused with lime ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 4, 2009

    On The Range: Mexican Breakfasts

    Beans for breakfast? Are you kidding?Ah, but according to the indispensable tome The Tex-Mex Cookbook, here in the Lone Star State a pot of beans was often used to break a cowboy's fast on the long trail, whether plain (as preferred by eminent Texas writer J Frank Dobie) or with a little bacon and c ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 25, 2009

    On The Range: Combination Plates

    Let's get one thing straight: Tex-Mex has never pretended to represent Mexican cuisine in its entirety. In fact, according to Robb Walsh, author of The Tex-Mex Cookbook, the genre was developed by Euro-American descendants and Hispanics living in Texas (Tejanos)--and was designed to be marketed to g ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 18, 2009

    On The Range: Fajitas

    I made a rather startling discovery while continuing my quest into the origins of Tex-Mex. For some reason I had assumed fajitas were a California addition, perhaps because of their ready adoption in to the presumably healthier Cal-Mex lineup. But no--legend credits Ninfa's in Houston, although ac ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 11, 2009

    On The Range: West Texas Enchiladas

    The first of a series documenting Chris Meesey's personal quest for authentic Tex-Mex. But we'll let him tell you more... I'm a genu-wine Texan, born and bred. In fact, I began life at Nix Hospital, San Antonio--less than one mile from The Alamo, the acknowledged epicenter of the Texas Universe. Ho ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 10, 2009

    Food For Thought 2.10.09

    "They still use those names--Colchester, Whitstable, Belon--but those places don't really produce many oysters anymore. Which means there's some creative marketing going on." (Robb Walsh, as quoted by Joyce Saenz Harris in the Dallas Morning News, discussing the importance of place of origin in the ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 6, 2009

    Designed To Shell

    Around my house, when it comes to lubricating the gears of love, I'm more inclined to reach for a 12-pack of Coors light--for her, not me--than shuck open a bucket of oysters. Those of you who are traditionalists (and have some class), however, might be more interested in the aphrodisiacal qualities ... More >>

  • News

    December 6, 2007

    Ask A Mexican

    All good things come from Texasin food, anyway

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