Subject:

Robb Walsh

  • Blogs

    April 27, 2012

    Spring Vegetables, Spring Festivals and Lots of Tequila: The Week In Dallas Eating

    More festivals this weekend. The 6th Annual Real Texas Festival kicks off today. I wasn't around for it last year, but Nick Rallo was and he gave the event a ringing endorsement. There are worse ways to spend your time than sampling barbecue from entrants chasing a $500 grand champion prize. Things ... More >>

  • Blogs

    April 13, 2012

    The Cheap Bastard For The Win: The Week in Unicorn Farts and Dallas Food

    The weekend is here, and it promises to be a good one with the Big Texas Beer Fest offering craft brews for the masses. I'm sure you guys want to get it started as much as I do, but first there's a week to wrap. This week I reviewed Company Cafe. The restaurant has some great qualities and will hop ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 30, 2012

    Beer, Taco Wars, and Matt McCallister: This Week In Dallas Dining

    Last week seemed slow: I could hardly find any stories to string together into a Lettuce wrap up. This week, however, I'm having trouble deciding how to fit all of these interesting stories in. Happy hour's in only getting closer, so I better cut to the chase. This was the week of pink slime for Ci ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 17, 2012

    With the Red Tide Receding, It's Time To Eat Some Texas Oysters

    ​Finally. We've been covering the red tide outbreak and its effect on oyster harvesting in the gulf for some time now. Last week the news finally shifted toward the positive. Many regions of the Texas Gulf shore have been opened to oyster fisherman. I talked with Chris Van Deusen, spokeswoman ... More >>

  • Blogs

    December 21, 2011

    The Marquee Grill's Shrimp and Grits Stand with Dallas' Best

    ​Shrimp and grits, the low-country fisherman's breakfast staple, has been a mainstay on elevated southern menus for more than three decades. If you're interested, Robb Walsh wrote up a history on the dish over on the Houston Press, but regardless of the lineage of the dish, its permanence as a ... More >>

  • Blogs

    November 2, 2011

    There Are No Texas Oysters in Your Near Future

    Steven Doyle​Houston-based food journalist Robb Walsh wrote yesterday about the red tide outbreak, which has caused the delayed opening of Texas' oyster beds. Oyster harvesting was closed until further notice by the Texas Department of Health State Services (DSHS) on October 26, leaving Walsh ... More >>

  • Blogs

    October 17, 2011

    Texas-Themed Cookbooks for Your Counter

    ​Robb Walsh and the folks at Ten Speed Press are putting together Texas Eats: The New Lone Star Heritage Cookbook. Walsh's latest, a "colorful and deeply personal blend of history, anecdotes and recipes," comes on the heels of several cookbooks compiling Tex-Mex, barbecue, cowboy cookery and o ... More >>

  • Blogs

    September 7, 2011

    Learning To Love Gulf Oysters at S&D Oyster Company

    ​ My McKinney Avenue walk was more than just a bar crawl. I also checked an item off my list I've been avoiding. I could say that I've been waiting till September to enjoy the delicacy I enjoyed many times before, but really I'd been using the old rule as an excuse. I was afraid of Gulf oysters.Ro ... More >>

  • Dining

    March 24, 2011

    Best Enchiladas Ever: Tons of Choices- Most of Them Good- at Monica Greene's Latest.

    ​ My McKinney Avenue walk was more than just a bar crawl. I also checked an item off my list I've been avoiding. I could say that I've been waiting till September to enjoy the delicacy I enjoyed many times before, but really I'd been using the old rule as an excuse. I was afraid of Gulf oysters.Ro ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 21, 2011

    Dallas Restaurants Shut Out of James Beard Contest

    Come to think of it, maybe we should have marked up the picture here instead.​Dallas chefs and restaurants, which collected an impressive five semi-finalist spots in this year's James Beard Foundation awards competition, today were shut out of the contest's final round. Stephen Pyles, The Man ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 28, 2011

    Oyster Appellations Return to the Gulf Coast

    More than a century ago, there wasn't any such thing as a "gulf oyster." Oysters were offered under specific place names -- a tradition revived this weekend at the first Foodways Texas symposium in Galveston. Jenny Wang​The program wasn't devoted entirely to oysters: Kelly Yandell, one of a f ... More >>

  • News

    February 17, 2011

    Bake Sale Bandits

    Local Movement Fights for Cottage Food Bill.

  • Blogs

    December 20, 2010

    Foodways Texas and Smoke Let You
    Step Out of Your Shell

    ​One of the best invitations I've received this year was an e-mail beckoning me to College Station for the founding of Foodways Texas. Now, you too have the opportunity to support the organization, as august a group of chefs, food writers, scholars, fishermen, pitmasters, chuckwagon cooks and ... More >>

  • Blogs

    October 22, 2010

    Though Untainted by Oil, Texas Gulf Fisheries Still Suffer BP Spill's Effect

    ​Seafood industry watchers say it's still too early to assess the long-term effects of this summer's gulf oil spill, but agree the disaster spelled a setback for Texas' fishermen, oystermen and shrimpers. Speaking at a panel this morning at the Southern Foodways Alliance's annual symposium, f ... More >>

  • Blogs

    September 23, 2010

    100 Favorite Dishes: Elvis Green Chile Fried Chicken at Chuy's

    ​To celebrate Dallas Observer's "Best of Dallas" 2010, available this week, City of Ate is serving up 100 of the favorite dishes we crave, savor and hope to scarf down again soon. These dishes are in no particular order. Some are little known, others celebrated. Some are pricey, others can be ... More >>

  • News

    August 12, 2010

    Why Does Manhattan Have Such Sucky Mexican Food?

    ​To celebrate Dallas Observer's "Best of Dallas" 2010, available this week, City of Ate is serving up 100 of the favorite dishes we crave, savor and hope to scarf down again soon. These dishes are in no particular order. Some are little known, others celebrated. Some are pricey, others can be ... More >>

  • Blogs

    August 11, 2010

    Reading List: Four Food-ish Books to Complete Your Summer

    ​It's not just students who feel rushed to finish their summer reading lists in the last few weeks of August: Adult readers who've lugged the same books back and forth from the pool are hurrying their way through the novels and memoirs they had every intention of reading this season. But for ... More >>

  • Blogs

    July 15, 2010

    Foodways Texas Drafts Recipe to Celebrate Lone Star Cuisine

    There's a lot to learn about Texas food. Might as well start with the basics.​The Southern Foodways Alliance, an 800-member organization that's stimulated serious scholarly discussion of barbecue and pinto beans; produced dozens of movies on edible topics ranging from Sazeracs to pig ear sandw ... More >>

  • Blogs

    April 5, 2010

    Too Few North Texas Restaurants Put the Puff in Puffy Tacos

    From Pointnshoot via Flickr​One Tex-Mex dish is so beloved in San Antonio, it has its own mascot. Strangely enough, the food in question is not something readily available in most Tex-Mex joints in North Texas. It's not enchiladas, burritos, or fajitas, but rather the puffy taco, which these day ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 3, 2010

    On the Range: Chalupas

    Wikimedia photo​Chalupas or tostadas? Sometimes it's hard to tell the difference. Of course you know what constitutes a tostada. That's a flat, crispy disc made from corn, then loaded with all sorts of freight including lettuce, tomatoes, beans or meat, cheese, possibly pico or crema, and topped ... More >>

  • Blogs

    January 27, 2010

    On The Range: Lengua

    Sorry, we couldn't stop ourselves.​On The Range is a weekly exploration of the history and lore of Texas menu items.Nobody gets tongue tied when the subject is, um, tongue.Writing in the Weekly Volcano (Tacoma and Olympia Washington's "only edgy, irreverent, and thought-provoking alternative news ... More >>

  • Blogs

    December 16, 2009

    On The Range: Hatch Green Chiles

    ​On The Range is a weekly exploration of the history and lore of Texas menu items.As the song says, deep in December it's nice to remember...Every Labor Day, the tiny town of Hatch, New Mexico springs to life with the Hatch Valley Chile Festival. Thousands of Chileheads from all across the countr ... More >>

  • News

    November 19, 2009

    Refried Beans With Extra Virgin Olive Oil? The Mexican Says For the Love of Lard, "No!"

    ​On The Range is a weekly exploration of the history and lore of Texas menu items.As the song says, deep in December it's nice to remember...Every Labor Day, the tiny town of Hatch, New Mexico springs to life with the Hatch Valley Chile Festival. Thousands of Chileheads from all across the countr ... More >>

  • Blogs

    November 9, 2009

    A Year On The Blog

    This time last year Patrick Michels' talent was already apparent.​A year ago we launched City of Ate--an event of such importance we forgot completely about the anniversary, which was last week.In announcing he could no longer remain anonymous, Houston Press critic Robb Walsh mentioned that he was ... More >>

  • Blogs

    October 14, 2009

    On The Range: Huaraches

    Ooops...wrong image.​On The Range is a weekly exploration of the history and lore of Texas menu items."If everybody had an ocean/Across the U.S.A/Then everybody'd be surfin'/Like Californ-I-a/You'd see 'em wearing their baggies/Huarache sandals too..." Despite the popularity brought to them by ... More >>

  • Blogs

    September 16, 2009

    On The Range: Migas

    PedroserafinA Spanish version of migas.​On The Range is a weekly exploration of the history and lore of Texas menu items.Eggs, tortilla strips, onions, chiles, and cheese. Or bread, oil & vinegar, spinach, alfalfa, and....licorice flavoring?? Believe it or not, these are some of the raw ingre ... More >>

  • News

    June 26, 2009

    "Mystery Meat" | "Storm Damaged" | "Buzz"

    PedroserafinA Spanish version of migas.​On The Range is a weekly exploration of the history and lore of Texas menu items.Eggs, tortilla strips, onions, chiles, and cheese. Or bread, oil & vinegar, spinach, alfalfa, and....licorice flavoring?? Believe it or not, these are some of the raw ingre ... More >>

  • Blogs

    June 3, 2009

    On The Range: Cabrito

    Goats helped settle America. Not kidding: According to Robb Walsh, author of The Tex-Mex Cookbook, goats were the preferred diet of common folk in Europe, so when Columbus sailed to the New World on his second voyage in 1493 he brought goats for meat, cheese, and milk--along with Spanish sheph ... More >>

  • Blogs

    May 27, 2009

    On The Range: Carnitas

    Mike McCuneLittle bits of meat--that's the literal definition of carnitas, those bite-size morsels of pork that have served as a favorite snack food throughout central Mexico for many years. However, according to eminent British food historian Rachel Laudan, carnitas are actually the preferre ... More >>

  • Blogs

    May 20, 2009

    On The Range: Chiles Rellenos

    Chiles rellenos, Emeril-stylePoblano peppers or Anaheim? When making chiles rellenos, the chef must first consider which pepper might better serve his or her vision of the completed dish. Indeed, they are similar and both are widely used, but tasting reveals subtle but noticeable differences. ... More >>

  • Blogs

    May 13, 2009

    On The Range: Guisado

    What's in a name? Unless I miss my guess, the guy who first coined the expression must have been thinking about guisado, a Mexican branch of the stew family. Why is this the case? You can answer the question by trying a simple experiment. Think about beef stew. What images does it evoke? If y ... More >>

  • Blogs

    May 6, 2009

    On The Range: Chicken Tortilla Soup

    Mexican cooks reuse leftovers like nobody's business. Consider the plight of the frugal family in days of yore, north or south of the border. The basics of life--shelter and food--are not certainties. Since the beginning of farming, rural families learned not to toss any part of a plant or a ... More >>

  • Blogs

    April 15, 2009

    On The Range: Chili Con Carne

    Given the popularity of chili, this was probably inevitable.Chili con carne, better known as chili for short, was named Official State Dish of Texas back in the late 1970s. Why chili and not barbecue or steak? According to Paul Burka, political writer, food guru, and all-around reside ... More >>

  • Blogs

    April 1, 2009

    On The Range: Tortillas

    Corn or flour?Depends on the filling. This comes from Alison Cook, author of "Taco Capitol, USA," a groundbreaking Texas Monthly cover story on the subject of Tex-Mex cuisine, who notes that while flour tortillas are better suited to Northern Mexico-style grilled meats and to breakfast tacos, "certa ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 25, 2009

    On The Range: Enchiladas

    Let's face it: A true Tex-Mex establishment succeeds or fails on the strength of its enchiladas. I realize I'm speaking only for myself, at least as far as popular dishes go. Many patrons of an El-or-La-something-or-other (as Rosemary Kent dubbed Tex-Mex restaurants in her Genuine Texas Hand ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 20, 2009

    Burning Question: What's Going On At City Of Ate?

    Hey, wait a minute...this is a government waste disposal schedule.Someone posted a comment under our new Veggie Girl segment this week wanting some kind of alert when the column pops up--RSS, we think they called it.The Burning Question crew, of course, knows nothing about technology...which is prob ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 18, 2009

    On The Range: Bar-Mex (Nachos, Chips And Stuff Like That)

    Most of us--well, most non-Hispanics, anyway--have been eating nachos for many years without a clue as to where the term originated. You see, in Tejano culture, "Nacho" is merely the nickname for Ignacio, a rather common name in Spanish-speaking households. And according to Robb Walsh and his ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 11, 2009

    On The Range: Tamales

    Pig's head tamales?Well, yes. Robb Walsh notes in his Tex-Mex cookbook that traditional emporiums use pig's heads as their base meat when making their husky creations. The head is boiled until the meat and lard cook away, then the broth is used to moisten the masa harina (corn meal infused with lime ... More >>

  • Blogs

    March 4, 2009

    On The Range: Mexican Breakfasts

    Beans for breakfast? Are you kidding?Ah, but according to the indispensable tome The Tex-Mex Cookbook, here in the Lone Star State a pot of beans was often used to break a cowboy's fast on the long trail, whether plain (as preferred by eminent Texas writer J Frank Dobie) or with a little bacon and ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 25, 2009

    On The Range: Combination Plates

    Dwight Eisenhower (right) took Mamie for a Tex-Mex combo plate at The Original Mexican Restaurant in San Antonio before WWILet's get one thing straight: Tex-Mex has never pretended to represent Mexican cuisine in its entirety. In fact, according to Robb Walsh, author of The Tex-Mex Cookbook, the ge ... More >>

  • Blogs

    February 18, 2009

    On The Range: Fajitas

    I made a rather startling discovery while continuing my quest into the origins of Tex-Mex. For some reason I had assumed fajitas were a California addition, perhaps because of their ready adoption in to the presumably healthier Cal-Mex lineup. But no--legend credits Ninfa's in Houston, although a ... More >>

  • Dining

    February 12, 2009

    Oyster Lovers Unite

    Now may be your best chance for a little raw love

  • Blogs

    February 11, 2009

    On The Range: West Texas Enchiladas

    The first of a series documenting Chris Meesey's personal quest for authentic Tex-Mex. But we'll let him tell you more... I'm a genu-wine Texan, born and bred. In fact, I began life at Nix Hospital, San Antonio--less than one mile from The Alamo, the acknowledged epicenter of the Texas Universe. ... More >>

  • News

    November 6, 2008

    Beer|DISD|Cotton Bowl|Jerry Jones

    The first of a series documenting Chris Meesey's personal quest for authentic Tex-Mex. But we'll let him tell you more... I'm a genu-wine Texan, born and bred. In fact, I began life at Nix Hospital, San Antonio--less than one mile from The Alamo, the acknowledged epicenter of the Texas Universe. ... More >>

  • News

    August 28, 2008

    Shaky Construction|Sweet on the Dr

    The first of a series documenting Chris Meesey's personal quest for authentic Tex-Mex. But we'll let him tell you more... I'm a genu-wine Texan, born and bred. In fact, I began life at Nix Hospital, San Antonio--less than one mile from The Alamo, the acknowledged epicenter of the Texas Universe. ... More >>

  • News

    June 12, 2008

    The Gang's All Here|That's the Ol' Pepper|Checkout Time|The Real Deals

    The first of a series documenting Chris Meesey's personal quest for authentic Tex-Mex. But we'll let him tell you more... I'm a genu-wine Texan, born and bred. In fact, I began life at Nix Hospital, San Antonio--less than one mile from The Alamo, the acknowledged epicenter of the Texas Universe. ... More >>

  • News

    December 6, 2007

    Ask A Mexican

    All good things come from Texas—in food, anyway

  • News

    June 15, 2000

    Letters

    Every egg matters; The little ingrates; Groucho does Iowa; Conan's feminine side; Salt in the wounds

  • News

    June 8, 2000

    Fluff

    Dented reputation; Please, stop calling. Please; Dot-dot-dot stuff

  • More >>

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