100 Favorite Dishes, No. 23: Causa Limena at San Salvaje

There's all sorts of secrets lurking inside that golden potato terrine.
There's all sorts of secrets lurking inside that golden potato terrine.
Catherine Downes

To prepare for this fall's Best of Dallas® 2014 issue, we're counting down (in no particular order) our 100 Favorite Dishes. If there's a dish you think we need to try, leave it in the comments, or email me.

Stephan Pyles' San Salvaje might be the most interesting restaurant in Dallas right now. The menu tackles Mexico and, moving south, every Latin American country down to Argentina. The expansive map allows Pyles to conjure all sorts of dishes you've never even heard of, embracing seemingly endless flavors.

Like that causa limena, pictured above. You didn't even know what this Peruvian potato terrine was before you started reading this post, and if you did, you've likely never seen one quite like this.

Normally the dish hides a well-seasoned meat mixture, a rainbow-hued vegetable mélange, poached shrimp, anchovies, tuna, poached or braised chicken inside the layered potatoes. As interpreted by Pyles, a tube of golden yellow potatoes conceals a gently cooked quail egg. Dig in with your fork and watch all that yolk gush forth in miniature.

If that's not enough, perched on top sit perfectly poach shrimp dressed in spicy mayonnaise. They add sweetness, a little salinity and a bouncy texture to a dish that is otherwise soft and smooth. That's a lot of flavors and textures to pack into one little dish. You won't regret ordering it.

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San Salvaje - Closed

2100 Ross Ave
Dallas / Fort Worth, TX 75201

214-922-9922

www.sansalvaje.com


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