100 Favorite Dishes, No. 29: Steak at Canary

Prime beef tenderloin.EXPAND
Prime beef tenderloin.
Kathy Tran

Leading up to September's Best of Dallas® 2016 issue, we're sharing (in no particular order) our 100 Favorite Dishes, the Dallas entrées, appetizers and desserts that really stuck with us this year.

Chef Mansour Gorji won back-to-back statewide Texas Steak Cook-Offs a decade ago, and although he has retired from cook-offs, the judges could wander into his restaurant tomorrow and hand him another medal. Canary has a simple approach to its meat — salt, pepper, olive oil, sear — but the cooking technique is consistently flawless. The tenderloin arrives perfectly pink from edge to edge and, in that simplest of rubs, eloquent in its flavor.

A word of warning to those, like Donald Trump, who prefer their steaks cooked well-done: As a purist, Chef Gorji is having none of it. “I cook medium rare,” he told me on my last visit. “Don’t ask me to do more.”

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