100 Favorite Dishes, No. 77: Pho At Lemongrass

100 Favorite Dishes, No. 77: Pho At Lemongrass

To prepare for this fall's Best of Dallas® 2012 issue, we're counting down (in no particular order) our 100 Favorite Dishes. If there's a dish you think we need to try, leave it in the comments, or email me.

Most of the oho I've eaten in Dallas leaves a lot to be desired. It's salty as sin and tastes like a headache. Some of the better bowls are tucked away in suburban strip malls, but more often then not I've ended up slurping a bowl of broken noodles swimming in reconstituted soup base.

There are a few refined versions to be found made from boiled bones and meats. These versions taste light, refreshing and guilt-free. Malai in the West Village does a decent bowl, but my favorite is still Lemongrass' pho. It costs $10.95 at lunch and comes with a nice chicken salad as a starter and a peeled orange to close. The broth leans heavily on star anise and cinnamon, which may annoy some, and neglects tendon and tripe, which is definitely a sin, but it's a great bowl of soup. The noodles have snap and a springy, chewy texture that lend themselves to delightful slurping.

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