Greenville Avenue continues to add restaurants after the city widened sidewalks, added parking and generally increased the number of potential customers walking around the neighborhood. The latest to open, Clark Food and Wine, began serving customers last Thursday.
The restaurant drew a lot of buzz because the chef and owner, Randall Warder, previously worked at The Mansion under Dean Fearing, but don't expect foie gras torchons and caviar here. The menu actually resembles that of a barbecue restaurant.
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Brisket, chicken, pork and other meats join Arctic char on a menu filled with smoked proteins. Each is sold by the half-pound, and a number of sides, including fries and sautéed vegetables, are available.
If smoked meats aren't your thing, plates meant for sharing dominate much of the menu. Some offered as "six-packs" present as many bites, as fried oysters, meatballs and peppers stuffed with goat cheese. There are also a number of sandwiches and a burger.
Like most of the new restaurants that have opened recently on Greenville, Clark takes advantage of the widened sidewalks with a patio that's been full most evenings since it opened, and plenty of outdoor diners have left the inside mostly dead. Cooler weather is coming, though, and customers seduced by Warder's offerings will find a sleek modern space when they're pushed indoors. Colorful art jumps from the monotone walls and flowers and burning candles pop with color and light. It's a good-looking spot.
Clark Food and Wine, 1920 Greenville Ave. 214-515-5500, clarkfoodandwine.com