A First Look at Henderson Avenue Country Club

The new facade of Henderson Avenue Country Club
The new facade of Henderson Avenue Country Club
Scott Reitz

A few weeks ago, Henderson Avenue Country Club opened its doors. The space was previously occupied by Nick Badovinus' Tried and True, which closed last year.

The Country Club is brought to you by the same folks that opened nearby Henderson Avenue Taproom, whose customers spilled out onto the patio whenever the weather was agreeable last fall.

There's plenty of whiskey here.
There's plenty of whiskey here.

Inside the Country Club you'll find stereotypical Texas, country decor. There are dead animals on the walls, Texas flags, logos for local breweries and televisions throughout. The jukebox plays country music round the clock, and the mixer and mic stand parked up front point to live acts during evenings and weekends.

The remodel encompassed more than the decor of the restaurant, though. What used to be the bar is now a collection of red pleather booths, and the bar was relocated across the dining room. It's topped with white marble, with the edge artfully chipped down for that faux-rugged feel.

That's where I sat when I stopped in and ordered the Belly Buster burger -- a burger that no doubt keeps its promise. An egg, a generous slathering of pimento cheese, salsa verde, pork belly and lettuce and tomato make for a burger with more focus on the toppings than the beef itself. A dry, half-pound patty was lost somewhere in the mix, and when I got done eating, it looked like I'd spent the afternoon bludgeoning deli sandwiches with my fist.

The rest of the menu focuses on barbecue, which is handled by a smoker they keep out back, and other standbys like deviled eggs and nachos.

Henderson Avenue Country Club is only open for lunch on Fridays. They start lunch service this weekend.

Henderson Avenue Country Club, 2405 North Henderson Ave., hendersonavecountryclub.com

This burger is pretty gross; I ate the whole thing.
This burger is pretty gross; I ate the whole thing.
Scott Reitz

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