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  • Article

    Tipping the Scales - Why do self-service restaurants ask for tips?

    Sometimes you wonder which extreme, gullibility or generosity, drives American dining behavior. As a people, we tip quite well. We're accustomed to it, leaving change behind on grimy diner tables and credit slips bearing at least one zero at fine es...

    by Dave Faries on December 21, 2000
  • Article

    Room With a View - Rear Window

    If nothing else, Rear Window is a view or, rather, a collection of little views tucked away in portals wrought into the interior architecture. The effect is handsome, cozy, plush, and off-center. Rear Window is neatly divided into two sections--rest...

    by Mark Stuertz on December 14, 2000
  • Article

    Serious Hole - Zbar

    What does a daringly beautiful and sleek lounge do when it wants to evolve beyond watering-hole food? It sauts quail. We ordered Zbar's sauted quail with new potatoes and asparagus, and we threw the kitchen off its footing. The chef made an emerge...

    by Mark Stuertz on December 14, 2000
  • Article

    Staked - It's now all meatloaf

    Just like that, the steak and the sizzle have been plucked off McKinney Avenue. Angelo & Maxie's Steakhouse, a Manhattan-based red-beef meat market roping 24- to 35-year-olds with the ploy that you're "never 2 hip" to tuck into a 24-ounce T-bone, has...

    by Mark Stuertz on December 14, 2000
  • Article

    Pavlov's Diners - Restaurant designers know what you want--even if you don't

    A busy night at the Flying Saucer in Addison often forces patrons to park across the street and risk their lives in a mad dash across Montfort. Laura's Last Chance in North Dallas provides revelers with a stunning view from its outdoor patio of an ap...

    by Dave Faries on December 14, 2000
  • Article

    American Cheese - What is Velveeta?

    Upon leaving the White House way back when, President Eisenhower cautioned against the power of the military-industrial complex. Perhaps the old guy should have warned us about the processed food industry as well. From Spam to hot dogs to pre-mixed p...

    by Dave Faries on December 14, 2000
  • Article

    Brew With a View - Keep your eyes on your own show

    It's difficult to decide what to like best about Big Buck Brewery & Steakhouse. Is it the 360-degree jet-black audio speakers that look like charred beehives hanging from the ceiling? Or is it the Big Buck urinals? The latter, a steakhouse innovation...

    by Mark Stuertz on December 7, 2000
  • Article

    Don't Forget to Decompose Your Auk - Dallas immigrants don't have to go home for holiday fare

    Europeans often scoff at America's apparent lack of unique tradition, especially around the holidays. Fruitcake, eggnog, and ham, for example, are all Christmas staples borrowed from the Old World. And turducken belongs to Louisiana alone. Historian...

    by Dave Faries on December 7, 2000
  • Article

    Soft Sell - An open-and-shut case

    It appears Bosque Caf, the restaurant composed in the arts district by longtime restaurateur Edgar Watson, has closed after its doors had been open for just a week. Watson, who launched a small string of restaurants in the Dallas area over the years...

    by Mark Stuertz on December 7, 2000
  • Article

    *@#$% on a Stick - What are our favorite foods on a stick?

    Long before the advent of forks, spoons, ladles, and other eating utensils, humankind skewered meat on sharpened sticks. It remains one of our most basic instincts--to jab at food with a pointed object in a symbolic form of savagery. Yes, underneat...

    by Dave Faries on December 7, 2000
  • Article

    Waiting Is the Hardest Part - Living off of chips and salsa

    Ten minutes since arrival. Chips. We are swimming in chips. Two large baskets. And it's taken 10 minutes to get these. They are crisp, well salted, and without that pubescent facial sheen that makes you feel as though you're about to eat scraps of So...

    by Mark Stuertz on November 30, 2000
  • Article

    Yippy Ky Yay - Darn close to the real thing

    One good thing about The Ranch House is that if it weren't for Interstate 30 just a few yards away and Lake Ray Hubbard (which is really just a gully with big hips) nearby, you'd think you really were on a ranch. And I'm not necessarily talking about...

    by Mark Stuertz on November 30, 2000
  • Article

    The "P" Word - Sitting out the rounds of musical chairs

    When we get hold of a good word, we like to run it into the ground. Especially when it makes us appear smarter than our associate degree in kitchen physics would imply. But not everybody feels this way, especially longtime Dallas chef Avner Samuel, w...

    by Mark Stuertz on November 30, 2000
  • Article

    It's Xmas: Must Be Pizza - The Domino's driver may be America's new holiday symbol

    Americans have always had problems with the old question of image vs. reality. For example, hard-partying George W. Bush represents good old-fashioned morality while former seminary student Al Gore suffers on issues of trust. People buy Saturns becau...

    by Dave Faries on November 30, 2000
  • Article

    Don't Ask - What are those green things in fruitcake?

    Fruitcakes are crucial to Western civilization. They've been around since Roman times--perhaps the same fruitcake--when Russell Crowe and his ilk feasted on a mix of pomegranate, pine nuts, and raisins mixed into a barley-mash batter. No wonder the ...

    by Dave Faries on November 30, 2000
  • Article

    Urban Modesty - Jeroboam has it all

    Whit Meyers says the last thing he wanted was a shiny new penny, and he didn't get it. Jeroboam, the new dining spot he and his partners in the Entertainment Collaborative developed in the Kirby Building, is a little clumsy, a bold portrayal of frays...

    by Mark Stuertz on November 23, 2000
  • Article

    Colombo Pause - Reasons to drink

    He created the defunct Italian restaurant chain Sfuzzi. He and Phil Romano founded Nick & Sam's, though now he's divorced from the project. Today, Patrick Colombo is in the predictable swamp of construction delays with his pair of projects slated for...

    by Mark Stuertz on November 23, 2000
  • Article

    Her Whey - Paula Lambert parlays a love of cheese into fame and life among the jet set

    It's cold on the Sunday before Thanksgiving, but it's sunny. It's only a few days before the holiday season kicks in for real, before the busiest travel weekend chokes the freeways and confounds Dallas/Fort Worth International Airport, before retaile...

    by Annabelle Massey Helber on November 23, 2000
  • Article

    Hog Wild - What are chitlins, and why would anyone eat them?

    This time of year was hog-killing time in the old South. Back in the days before air conditioning, Prada, dentistry, and good taste forever altered the Southern states and their cherished heritage, families gathered every November to butcher a few ...

    by Dave Faries on November 23, 2000
  • Article

    Hot Off The Grill - Do-it-yourself dishes at Zen Mongo

    I'm assuming the thing that is so thrilling about opening a Mongolian grill is that it's dirt cheap to operate and has fat margins. There's a specified roster of ingredients to stock and prep, labor is limited to drink-fetchers, a busboy, and a spatu...

    by Mark Stuertz on November 16, 2000
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The first time you pull up to Gemma, it can be difficult to pin down what you've gotten yourself into. While you thumb your wallet for small bills to tip… More >>

Victor Tangos' Reluctant Makeover Victor Tangos' Reluctant Makeover

If you hadn't seen them hoist the sign into place, or otherwise been familiar with Victor Tangos' facade, you would likely miss it. The new sign bearing the restaurant's name… More >>

The Blind Butcher Has a Vision for Meat

Cured meats and craft beer. Simmered down to its tagline, Blind Butcher is about what you'd expect from its founders, Goodfriend veterans Matt Tobin and Josh Yingling, even if they… More >>

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