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  • Article

    Bugs Add Flavor - How to pass a restaurant health inspection with a gentlemanly C

    Roasted crickets taste a bit like popcorn. Really. Mealworm-infested pizza isn't bad, either--according to a Texas A & M entomology class in which students undergo a bug-tasting lesson every semester in a safe and scientific environment. Professor R...

    by Dave Faries on October 26, 2000
  • Article

    Hot Cars and Big Money - What's it like to be a restaurant valet in Dallas?

    Sometimes Jeremy Parker slides behind the wheel of a Lamborghini Diablo. More often he drives a Mercedes. But in rare moments of juvenile flair he bops around in a bright yellow 1968 VW Bug. Valet parking is ubiquitous in Dallas. According to David ...

    by Dave Faries on October 26, 2000
  • Article

    Slammer Chow - Prison food with a price

    A piece inserted into the trifold menu at The Prison in McKinney says that the circa-1880, three-story building was designed by architect F.E. Ruffini, crafter of numerous late 19th century public buildings in Texas. The blurb describes the Collin Co...

    by Mark Stuertz on October 19, 2000
  • Article

    Pulp Dining - Taratino's sophomore effort

    Though he won't reveal--on the record at least--the reasons for the fracture, Peter Tarantino has severed his ties with Anthony Bermea's Caribbean Red, where Tarantino was general manager, after just a few weeks. "I did my job. We did our stunt. And ...

    by Mark Stuertz on October 19, 2000
  • Article

    Seeds of Discontent - Can growing protests stem the tide of genetically engineered crops?

    Those who lived through the anti-nuke rallies may think all other socio-political battlegrounds easy. Think again. A mere mention of the phrase "genetic engineering" causes all kinds of intemperate behavior: setting fire to Michigan State University ...

    by Dave Faries on October 19, 2000
  • Article

    Turning Green - Why don't Dallas restaurants serve real wasabi?

    We might as well blame President Clinton for this. After all, the man who personally started all of those forest fires this summer and raised the price of gasoline just to spite American consumers is (listen up, Rush) certainly capable of introducing...

    by Dave Faries on October 19, 2000
  • Article

    On Their Noodle - Rice Boxx Asian Caf

    Noodles are invading Dallas. Finally. Sort of. Since Liberty opened a couple of years ago, those in the know were expecting noodle houses--spots plying hybrid noodle dishes from all over Asia--to limply blanket the city with their tasty, cheap, and a...

    by Mark Stuertz on October 12, 2000
  • Article

    Good Sports - Forget chicken wings. The modern sports bar serves sauted artichoke hearts--God help us all.

    Things evolve. Well, everywhere outside of Kansas and a few pockets in the Deep South, things evolve. Consider for a moment the evolution of sports bars. Once a neighborhood dive with peanut shells, disturbing stains, unknown dark corners, and a col...

    by Dave Faries on October 12, 2000
  • Article

    Cockle Do - Rooster ruckus?

    The rumors aren't true, she says. There is no impending Rooster ruckus. Rooster owners Todd and Amanda Tracy have not put their roughly 4-year-old restaurant on the block, which for a Rooster is a very serious matter. Instead, Amanda Tracy says they'...

    by Mark Stuertz on October 12, 2000
  • Article

    Burning Question - Why do restaurants decorate with junk?

    You have to travel to see a Babe Ruth-autographed baseball. Most people fly to Syracuse, New York, rent a car, drive southeast for an hour or so, and buy a ticket to the baseball hall of fame. Others just pop in for lunch at Balls Hamburgers on Nort...

    by Dave Faries on October 12, 2000
  • Article

    Lu-ser, baby - Jimmy Lu's shoots for the hip and misses

    t's hard to know what to make of Jimmy Lu's, so shrouded are its subtleties, so disguised are its flavors. Maybe disguised isn't the right word, but I'm at a loss. I consulted the press kit, a stylish collection of tightly focused propaganda slipped...

    by Mark Stuertz on October 5, 2000
  • Article

    Spelling Bee - Fusion phonetics

    Nightlife whiz Richard Fiaschetti says he distorted the spelling of his new restaurant and bar moniker because he didn't like the way the correct spelling looked on paper. But he likes how the logo looks painted on the dining room windows. Kaoss Rest...

    by Mark Stuertz on October 5, 2000
  • Article

    Up in the Air - Fort Worth's landmark Reata restaurant is back and waiting on a deal to save its home

    The story of Fort Worth's Reata restaurant, rescued from the wreckage of a late spring tornado through sheer force of will and owner Al Micaleff's deep pockets, has as many knots and snarls as an unkempt lariat. Like the twister that started the trou...

    by Annabelle Massey Helber on October 5, 2000
  • Article

    Burning Question - Where are the spoons?

    Every once in a while, controversy seethes beneath the otherwise placid surface of American culture, waiting only for some incident to unleash its brutally divisive force. For instance, recall the time the elder George Bush pronounced his distaste fo...

    by Dave Faries on October 5, 2000
  • Article

    True Lies - Thai Bistro

    Thai Bistro's maxim is "a true dining experience"; at least that's what's italicized on the front of the menu. I'm not sure what a true dining experience is, or even a false one. Perhaps the latter would include wax fruit, Velveeta, and veggie veniso...

    by Mark Stuertz on September 28, 2000
  • Article

    Soup's On - Village Grill

    It's like a corral or a Ponderosa steakhouse. At Village Grill, you walk through the door and are immediately channeled down a walkway, like cattle, toward the ordering counter. Behind the counter is a large poster of the menu. There's also a little ...

    by Mark Stuertz on September 28, 2000
  • Article

    Last stand - Custer surrenders

    It seems like the departure rumors have been around longer than she has. But after more than four accolade-studded years as executive chef and general manager at Laurels atop the Westin Park Central, Daniel Custer is pulling out of Dallas. She had al...

    by Mark Stuertz on September 28, 2000
  • Article

    How Dry We Ain't - Or, how that crummy little Unicard has transformed North Texas

    Sure, Texas leads the nation in alcohol-related traffic deaths--1,734 in 1999--and the state's leniency toward drunk drivers costs it close to $100 million in highway funding. But when it comes to drinking, nothing arouses the ire of North Texas like...

    by Dave Faries on September 28, 2000
  • Article

    Fat Is Good - Is prime beef really prime?

    Question: Is prime beef really prime? Every year in September, the otherwise drab streets of Monmouth, Illinois, erupt with all the color and pageantry of the Warren County Prime Beef Festival. They even elect a festival princess--Miss Prime Beef, ...

    by Dave Faries on September 28, 2000
  • Article

    Eat at Joe's - Buca di Beppo

    Tacky misses the point. The outside of the restaurant is painted red, the kind of crimson that occurs when you leave tomato sauce on top of a flame too long. Positioned at various points along the wall are Romanesque statues brushed with antiquing st...

    by Mark Stuertz on September 14, 2000
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From the Print Edition

Gemma Is Making Beautiful Food, from Sea to Briny Sea Gemma Is Making Beautiful Food, from Sea to Briny Sea

The first time you pull up to Gemma, it can be difficult to pin down what you've gotten yourself into. While you thumb your wallet for small bills to tip… More >>

Victor Tangos' Reluctant Makeover Victor Tangos' Reluctant Makeover

If you hadn't seen them hoist the sign into place, or otherwise been familiar with Victor Tangos' facade, you would likely miss it. The new sign bearing the restaurant's name… More >>

The Blind Butcher Has a Vision for Meat

Cured meats and craft beer. Simmered down to its tagline, Blind Butcher is about what you'd expect from its founders, Goodfriend veterans Matt Tobin and Josh Yingling, even if they… More >>

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