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  • Article

    Hash Over - Beer bust; Buck banger

    Beer bust I've always liked cheap beer, a taste I acquired in college that to this day is sustained by my brother-in-law, who frequently lugs 12-packs of Keystone Light over for dinner and then forgets where in the refrigerator he left them (behin...

    by Mark Stuertz on May 4, 2000
  • Article

    Lo-lo-lo-lo-Lola - This place positively croons

    Much as I try, I can't seem to find a common thread between Volvos and haute cuisine. Volvos are austerely functional vehicles, hauling child protective seats with the resolve of a D-6 dozer. They're the automotive equivalent of granola with a side o...

    by Mark Stuertz on April 27, 2000
  • Article

    Hash Over - No Fork over; Gorman gallops

    No Fork over III Forks Steak House owner Dale Wamstad (a.k.a. Del Frisco) has taken his long-running community property battle with his ex-wife Lena Rumore to the Louisiana Supreme Court. Rumore has been fighting since late 1995 to get a piece of ...

    by Mark Stuertz on April 27, 2000
  • Article

    O'Dud's - O'Dowd's Little Dublin dresses well, but eats unkempt

    Dear Mr. O'Dowd: Right off the top I'll admit I don't know much about Irish food (is there a lot to know?). I'm German. And there's not a whole lot to know about German food either, at least not in a haute sense. Assembling cool kitchen appliances, ...

    by Mark Stuertz on April 20, 2000
  • Article

    In-out, in-out - Your humble narrator finds a right good horrorshow at the Milkbar

    There was me -- that is, the Kraut -- and my zheena, and we sat in the Milkbar making up our rassoodocks about what pischcha to nibble on for the evening. This devotchka, all dressed in a malenky white vinyl skirt with these flip horrorshow go-go boo...

    by Mark Stuertz on April 20, 2000
  • Article

    Hash Over - Haines hikes to Henderson; Mixed hash; List watch

    Haines hikes to Henderson Remember when everyone was saddling Dallas chef Avner Samuel with the word "peripatetic"? Well, maybe not everyone. Just a few writers with a thesaurus fetish. And I'd be the last person to call chef Marc Haines peripatet...

    by Mark Stuertz on April 20, 2000
  • Article

    Stumble onto it - Salve! proves Dallas can do Italian

    There's a guy in San Francisco named John Cunin who was the longtime matre d' at a place called Masa's before he decided to open his own place in 1990 called the Cypress Club. The Cypress Club was (and still is, I suppose) one of those see-and-be-se...

    by Mark Stuertz on April 13, 2000
  • Article

    Hash Over - Rope twister; Mixed hash; List watch

    Rope twister Reata owner Mike Evans says he knew things were getting weird when he saw a large patio umbrella swirling outside the much-lauded restaurant's 35th-floor window in the Bank One Tower in downtown Fort Worth. So he directed Reata's staf...

    by Mark Stuertz on April 13, 2000
  • Article

    Dressed to the nines - But Mondo's isn't quite a 10

    Time was that the 99-cent threshold for pricing was the sole domain of the grocery store, or at least it seemed that way. It's an old strategy. Knock a penny off a price and make it seem like the customer is saving a buck, while the cent saved ends u...

    by Mark Stuertz on April 6, 2000
  • Article

    Red fish, blew fish - Kampai Sushi leaves little to admire save the Addison "skyline"

    Kampai Sushi & Grill is a new restaurant on Addison Circle next to Antonio Ristorante and across from the just-opened Avanti Euro Bistro. But this isn't the important thing. The important thing is that Kampai faces "Blueprints at Addison Circle," a s...

    by Mark Stuertz on April 6, 2000
  • Article

    Hash Over - Deli madness; Mixed hash

    Deli madness Maybe the next market segment ripe for plucking by the World Wrestling Federation is New York-style delis, at least in Dallas. In early January, Alan Gilbert of Gilbert's Deli filed a lawsuit against Dallas doctor Gary Morchower, his ...

    by Mark Stuertz on April 6, 2000
  • Article

    City to city - Ciudad quietly storms Dallas

    It's not surprising that a venue like Ciudad D.F. surfaced like a bubble on Dallas asphalt. What's surprising is that it has taken this long. Ciudad is Monica Greene's (of Monica's Aca y Alla in Deep Ellum) tribute to her hometown and a Dallas interp...

    by Mark Stuertz on March 30, 2000
  • Article

    Hash Over - Fish stink; Dragonfly dunk

    Fish stink Former Fish chef Chris Svalesen says he was vexed to read in The Dallas Morning News that he was close to a consultancy agreement with Nick and John Natour, owners of The Enclave, to help them reopen Gershwin's. Though Svalesen confirms...

    by Mark Stuertz on March 30, 2000
  • Article

    Return to blender - Maritage's mix of flavors doesn't quite mesh

    Maritage is named after a wine category -- it's actually spelled Meritage -- created several years ago by an association of California winemakers. Those winemakers had a problem: Most of the world's truly great wines comprise blends of vintages made ...

    by Mark Stuertz on March 23, 2000
  • Article

    Southern discomfort - Ellington's ain't much, but it's better than tofu

    There are a few things that Ellington's doesn't get quite right. One of them is a statement in the restaurant's publicity blurb: "We like to fry," it states. "It may not be politically correct, but one taste of our fried chicken, chicken-fried steak,...

    by Mark Stuertz on March 23, 2000
  • Article

    Hash Over - French meat munch

    French meat munch Emerging Brands, the division of Carlson Restaurants Worldwide that came up with Samba Room, is scouting Dallas for space to house a new concept: Mignon. Billed as a 1960s French steakhouse that brings jazz and blues back to dini...

    by Mark Stuertz on March 23, 2000
  • Article

    Sink or swim - Evolving Fish soars and flounders

    Fish has always been a funny fin. It could dazzle you with its scaled wonders, then turn around and disappoint you with a few beached blunders. But it would always hook you with a hefty check for the trouble. Launched in 1996 by businessman Steven ...

    by Mark Stuertz on March 16, 2000
  • Article

    Hash Over - Sports bar blues

    Sports bar blues Frank Carabetta, whose Frantoni's Italian Caf on Henderson was snuffed out back in 1997 because of Central Expressway construction, says Frankie's Sports Bar & Grill, the venue he planned to open last October on McKinney Avenue i...

    by Mark Stuertz on March 16, 2000
  • Article

    Chain links - Earl's is thin...

    It sounds more like a garage than a restaurant. From somewhere more like Toledo, Ohio, than Vancouver, B.C. A place that sends its management on culinary swings through Oklahoma and Iowa instead of Bordeaux, Italy, and Napa. But earl's is no ordina...

    by Mark Stuertz on March 9, 2000
  • Article

    Chain links - ...Chipotle is phat

    Right there, in a glass case just as you walk up to the counter at Chipotle Mexican Grill on McKinney Avenue is a T-shirt (for sale) with a clever maxim. "Usually, when you roll something this good, it's illegal," it says. This statement refers to Ch...

    by Mark Stuertz on March 9, 2000
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From the Print Edition

Gemma Is Making Beautiful Food, from Sea to Briny Sea Gemma Is Making Beautiful Food, from Sea to Briny Sea

The first time you pull up to Gemma, it can be difficult to pin down what you've gotten yourself into. While you thumb your wallet for small bills to tip… More >>

Victor Tangos' Reluctant Makeover Victor Tangos' Reluctant Makeover

If you hadn't seen them hoist the sign into place, or otherwise been familiar with Victor Tangos' facade, you would likely miss it. The new sign bearing the restaurant's name… More >>

The Blind Butcher Has a Vision for Meat

Cured meats and craft beer. Simmered down to its tagline, Blind Butcher is about what you'd expect from its founders, Goodfriend veterans Matt Tobin and Josh Yingling, even if they… More >>

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