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  • Article

    Tin tongue - Tin Star's "salsa, smoke, and sizzle" fizzle

    Tin Star is bright and chic. Tin Star is simple. Tin Star has catchy theme: "salsa, smoke, and sizzle." Tin Star is cheap. But Tin Star doesn't sparkle, because the most important point in this twinkler--the food--is as dull as a butter knife. ...

    by Mark Stuertz on May 27, 1999
  • Article

    Hash Over

    Raw feelings Scott Melton thinks he got a raw deal. "It was kind of chicken shit," he says. Melton, who recently opened Sushi Nights on Main Street in Deep Ellum, filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy in April for Sushi Deep Ellum Inc., the general par...

    by Mark Stuertz on May 20, 1999
  • Article

    Face off - At the Palm, it's more about who's on the walls than what's on the plate

    I'm not really sure what all the fuss was about. But it all started with a printing error. Last summer, The Dallas Morning News did an article on the Palm Restaurant's upcoming renovation, one that would darken the restaurant and sequester its dining...

    by Mark Stuertz on May 20, 1999
  • Article

    Sushi unplugged - With sushi restaurants multiplying like fast-food joints, a good sliver of fish is hard to find

    Raw fish. Raw fish eggs. Raw marine sex organs. Think about it. Putting these things in your mouth is extreme. Raw fish is scary. Well, it used to be, anyway. Now it's so commonplace that it draws yawns. Sushi restaurants are popping up with the...

    by Mark Stuertz on May 13, 1999
  • Article

    Hash Over

    Flying solo You could say that former Sipango chef and partner Matthew Antonovich is fickle. Either that, or he has no business sense when it comes to choosing a partner. Just look at his post-Sipango history. First he connects with Dale Wamstad ...

    by Mark Stuertz on May 13, 1999
  • Article

    Going back to the well - Did Newport's fish its menu from a deep hole?

    Our server says that in the summertime waiters strip and dive in--plunge 35 or so feet into that dark, stagnant water hole that seems a portal to Hades. I cringe. "Oh, it's 60 feet deep," he says. (Actually, the well at Newport's Seafood is 50 feet d...

    by Mark Stuertz on May 6, 1999
  • Article

    Hash Over

    Woodward quits quad It's the stampede of the Stars. David Woodward, chef de cuisine at FoodStar Restaurant Group's Mediterraneo at the Quadrangle, says he's bolting, packing up for the desert city of showgirls and conspicuous consumption. Woodwar...

    by Mark Stuertz on May 6, 1999
  • Article

    Hash Over

    FoodStar stir Just last summer, FoodStar Restaurant Group was gushing over ambitious plans to launch as many as 40 PoPoLos, Mediterraneo, and Toscana restaurants across the country. Now, the recipe at FoodStar Restaurant Group seems a little hash...

    by Mark Stuertz on April 29, 1999
  • Article

    Thin line between love and hate - Cork is a promising wine bar that's plugged its excitement for the drink

    I love Cork. Which is why I hate it. If Dallas has needed one thing for a long time, it's a no-frills, down-and-dirty wine bar. One that energetically trumps the numbness of most wine lists. One with sass. One with smarts. Other places play arou...

    by Mark Stuertz on April 29, 1999
  • Article

    Dining in the rough - If Wilderness Grill's dismal food is the best nature has to offer, then thank God for civilization

    Nature is awe-inspiring, splendidly pure, breathtakingly harmonious, gloriously elegant in its savage innocence. If you don't yet know this after a lifetime of public television nature programs, Robert Redford rants, and Free Willy sequels, you'll be...

    by Mark Stuertz on April 22, 1999
  • Article

    Hash Over

    Of smokes & meat The spot on Cedar Springs and Carlisle has served as a rotating temple of vices over the past couple of years. First it was The Joint, a hot-and-rowdy pool hall and restaurant staffed with waitresses who wore little more than cue...

    by Mark Stuertz on April 22, 1999
  • Article

    Hash Over

    Cork felons Serious Texas wine sippers are angry because they think it's going to cut their access to wines generally not stocked on Texas store shelves. Wineries are mad because they don't like being hauled off to the slammer for serving those s...

    by Mark Stuertz on April 15, 1999
  • Article

    Pub crawl - Dishing up a Cock & Bull story, with a touch of Blarney

    The pub is packed. Every tiny table is occupied. But just as we walk in, a spot opens by the window in the raised seating area to the left of the bar. It could be romantic, even if the view is just parked cars off Gaston Avenue in the foreground and ...

    by Mark Stuertz on April 15, 1999
  • Article

    Hash Over

    Eat Tibet free It's almost nauseating how the entertainment industry flaunts its benevolence when there's a chic cause to latch onto. Millions of children across the globe die every year from diarrhea, but you don't see weepy Sharon Stones organi...

    by Mark Stuertz on April 8, 1999
  • Article

    Wet kiss - Bizu needs to tighten its menu before Dallas will pucker up

    Bizu isn't Alberto Lombardi's first French bistro, and Bizu, which means "little kiss" in French (with a twist on the French spelling), probably won't be his last. But what do I know? Sure, I'd stabbed my fork into some marginal meals at Lombard...

    by Mark Stuertz on April 8, 1999
  • Article

    Jazzy dining - Soho Food hits the right notes; Ocean Grill & Jazz blows cold

    You have to admit it. Owner Hamid Moallem did a hell of a job retrofitting his new restaurant into Soho Food, Drinks and Jazz. I remember when it was Okeanos, featuring seafood by famed Dallas chef Avner Samuel. The institutional terra-cotta tile flo...

    by Mark Stuertz on April 1, 1999
  • Article

    Hash Over

    Bistro bluster Ouch. Last week's review of The Bistro singed some nerves, and it wasn't my impressions of the food or service that inflamed temperaments, either. It was naming the names of those responsible for The Bistro's largely marginal fare....

    by Mark Stuertz on April 1, 1999
  • Article

    Who am I this time? - The Bistro inches through incremental evolution

    That little restaurant space with the burgundy awning near Lovers and Inwood has gone through some modest mutations over the years. In 1992, it was Le Caviste, a French wine bistro. Then in 1993, Guy and Martine Calluaud appropriated the space and cr...

    by Mark Stuertz on March 25, 1999
  • Article

    Hash Over

    Soul food We've all heard that chefs are a little crazy. We've also heard that crazy people sometimes make drastic moves at the behest of ghosts. Help the president run the country for instance. But open a restaurant? That's what former Sipango c...

    by Mark Stuertz on March 25, 1999
  • Article

    Hash Over

    Dragonfly flutters A Dallas County district judge slapped longtime Dallas nightclub operator Steve Kahn with a temporary injunction late last week, essentially removing him as head of the Dragonfly Bar & Restaurant on Lower Greenville Avenue. The...

    by Mark Stuertz on March 18, 1999
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