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  • Article

    *@#$% on a Stick - What are our favorite foods on a stick?

    Long before the advent of forks, spoons, ladles, and other eating utensils, humankind skewered meat on sharpened sticks. It remains one of our most basic instincts--to jab at food with a pointed object in a symbolic form of savagery. Yes, underneat...

    by Dave Faries on December 7, 2000
  • Article

    Waiting Is the Hardest Part - Living off of chips and salsa

    Ten minutes since arrival. Chips. We are swimming in chips. Two large baskets. And it's taken 10 minutes to get these. They are crisp, well salted, and without that pubescent facial sheen that makes you feel as though you're about to eat scraps of So...

    by Mark Stuertz on November 30, 2000
  • Article

    Yippy Ky Yay - Darn close to the real thing

    One good thing about The Ranch House is that if it weren't for Interstate 30 just a few yards away and Lake Ray Hubbard (which is really just a gully with big hips) nearby, you'd think you really were on a ranch. And I'm not necessarily talking about...

    by Mark Stuertz on November 30, 2000
  • Article

    The "P" Word - Sitting out the rounds of musical chairs

    When we get hold of a good word, we like to run it into the ground. Especially when it makes us appear smarter than our associate degree in kitchen physics would imply. But not everybody feels this way, especially longtime Dallas chef Avner Samuel, w...

    by Mark Stuertz on November 30, 2000
  • Article

    It's Xmas: Must Be Pizza - The Domino's driver may be America's new holiday symbol

    Americans have always had problems with the old question of image vs. reality. For example, hard-partying George W. Bush represents good old-fashioned morality while former seminary student Al Gore suffers on issues of trust. People buy Saturns becau...

    by Dave Faries on November 30, 2000
  • Article

    Don't Ask - What are those green things in fruitcake?

    Fruitcakes are crucial to Western civilization. They've been around since Roman times--perhaps the same fruitcake--when Russell Crowe and his ilk feasted on a mix of pomegranate, pine nuts, and raisins mixed into a barley-mash batter. No wonder the ...

    by Dave Faries on November 30, 2000
  • Article

    Urban Modesty - Jeroboam has it all

    Whit Meyers says the last thing he wanted was a shiny new penny, and he didn't get it. Jeroboam, the new dining spot he and his partners in the Entertainment Collaborative developed in the Kirby Building, is a little clumsy, a bold portrayal of frays...

    by Mark Stuertz on November 23, 2000
  • Article

    Colombo Pause - Reasons to drink

    He created the defunct Italian restaurant chain Sfuzzi. He and Phil Romano founded Nick & Sam's, though now he's divorced from the project. Today, Patrick Colombo is in the predictable swamp of construction delays with his pair of projects slated for...

    by Mark Stuertz on November 23, 2000
  • Article

    Her Whey - Paula Lambert parlays a love of cheese into fame and life among the jet set

    It's cold on the Sunday before Thanksgiving, but it's sunny. It's only a few days before the holiday season kicks in for real, before the busiest travel weekend chokes the freeways and confounds Dallas/Fort Worth International Airport, before retaile...

    by Annabelle Massey Helber on November 23, 2000
  • Article

    Hog Wild - What are chitlins, and why would anyone eat them?

    This time of year was hog-killing time in the old South. Back in the days before air conditioning, Prada, dentistry, and good taste forever altered the Southern states and their cherished heritage, families gathered every November to butcher a few ...

    by Dave Faries on November 23, 2000
  • Article

    Hot Off The Grill - Do-it-yourself dishes at Zen Mongo

    I'm assuming the thing that is so thrilling about opening a Mongolian grill is that it's dirt cheap to operate and has fat margins. There's a specified roster of ingredients to stock and prep, labor is limited to drink-fetchers, a busboy, and a spatu...

    by Mark Stuertz on November 16, 2000
  • Article

    Good Sport - Not your ordinary sports bar

    Frankie's Sports Bar and Grill is a typical picture-tube-studded suds dispenser with a pool table, a smattering of video games, a few gruff bartenders, and a rec-room-like atmosphere with a sunken dining area. What isn't so typical about this sports ...

    by Mark Stuertz on November 16, 2000
  • Article

    Anzu Assumption - Manager musical chairs

    After sitting vacant since February with little more than a flock of non-rent-paying origami birds hanging from the ceiling to keep it occupied, the space that once housed Anzu, that hip, cutting-edge (at the time) Japanese/Pacific Rim exploit that s...

    by Mark Stuertz on November 16, 2000
  • Article

    Hot Lunch - Or, how to find love among the dishes

    It's not unusual for men to hit on Missy Kutzor. But when a guy walked up to her during lunch at The Olive Garden, it caught her off guard. "He looked me up and down and said hi," Kutzor recalls. "I just ignored him." The strikeout artist remains un...

    by Dave Faries on November 16, 2000
  • Article

    Fat City - Does anybody eat low-fat/no-fat ice cream?

    Americans consume too much fat. Or so we're told. Yet no less an authority than The Joy of Cooking contends that "avoiding it altogether is neither beneficial nor desirable." Each gram of fat contains about nine love-handle-enhancing calories. Bu...

    by Dave Faries on November 16, 2000
  • Article

    Baja Humbug - Mixed metaphors and confusing detours

    The interesting thing about Baja California Grill is that it was never meant to be named after that tendril of Mexican desert jutting out of the end of California. It was supposed to be called Hotel California Grill. But this got the panties of the b...

    by Mark Stuertz on November 9, 2000
  • Article

    Help Wanted - Tired of poor service? You can thank the booming economy.

    Ron Ferguson wrestles with the hard realities of economics every day. The general manager of the Coppertank Brewing Company in Dallas needs three or four wait staff and a few other people. "It's pretty tough to hire right now," Ferguson says. "There ...

    by Dave Faries on November 9, 2000
  • Article

    Goodbye, Jimmy Lu - Fire and water

    The restaurant's press kit says that when you discover Jimmy Lu's, there's no turning back. Apparently, that's not exactly true. Jimmy Lu's Chairman and CEO Chris Harrison has sold out of the roughly 4-month-old North Dallas restaurant serving Asian ...

    by Mark Stuertz on November 9, 2000
  • Article

    Life's Not Fair - Where can you get funnel cakes now that the State Fair is over?

    Great questions confound the greatest of minds, forcing even legendary figures to shrivel up and crawl away in pure defeat. How do you untie the Gordian knot? That one frustrated Alexander the Great so much that he hacked at the thing with a sword. W...

    by Dave Faries on November 9, 2000
  • Article

    Thango Tied - Tasty Thai now available in Flower Mound

    What's most surprising about Thai Tango is not the food, or the dcor, or how snazzy the logo looks in lights illuminating its own little corner of a strip mall still under construction. It's how far the place is from Dallas. Compost heaps and dung b...

    by Mark Stuertz on November 2, 2000
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