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  • Article

    Swat it! - Dragonfly darts with a tedious buzz

    In one sense, Dragonfly Bar & Restaurant perfectly mimics its namesake. Like the insect, this lower Greenville haunt darts, ascends, turns sharply, stops on a dime, and drop-shifts into reverse as it travels a number of directions all in one flight p...

    by Mark Stuertz on October 1, 1998
  • Article

    Hash Over

    Deli news Asher Investments, the partnership behind the successful Bistro A in Snider Plaza, is poised to launch a sandwich shop across the street from the restaurant in a former uniform service warehouse. Bistro A consulting chef Avner Samuel wi...

    by Mark Stuertz on September 17, 1998
  • Article

    Food play - Nana Grill's new chef toys with compelling flavors

    Nana Grill, the aging eatery perched atop the Wyndham Anatole, has a new chef: 25-year-old Doug Brown, a Culinary Institute of America grad and veteran of such spots as Mark's Place in Miami, venue of celebrated chef Mark Militello. A sous chef at Na...

    by Mark Stuertz on September 17, 1998
  • Article

    Hash Over

    Greiser exits Gershwin's Lauded chef George Greiser cut loose from Gershwin's Bar & Grill last Friday to pursue an ambitious project in Austin dubbed Jake's. Plunked on the shores of Lake Austin in the former Lake View Lodge, Jake's combines casu...

    by Mark Stuertz on September 10, 1998
  • Article

    I ate what? - Tei Tei Robata pushes the envelope on foodstuffs, and does it very well

    Tei Tei Robata bar drives home the point that virtually anything constructed from the building blocks of life can be used as food. It's squeamishness that prevents many worthy nutritious forms of biochemistry from becoming staples on the TV dinner tr...

    by Mark Stuertz on September 10, 1998
  • Article

    Hash Over

    Fairmont ponders Brasserie fate Though some conclude its demise is all but inevitable, Fairmont Hotel management dances when asked to confirm the Brasserie's rumored closing. "[The rumor] is not currently accurate," says Fairmont's director of fo...

    by Mark Stuertz on September 3, 1998
  • Article

    Clawing for success - Tasty crab claws can't rescue Truluck's

    Stone crabs are colorful, hard-shelled beasts that come in precious Southwestern hues. The meat, though more fibrous and less delicate than that of other crab species, is sweet and rich. But there is another vitally important aspect to the stone...

    by Mark Stuertz on September 3, 1998
  • Article

    Indian beatitude - Suprabhath is simple splendor

    It doesn't take more than a taste to realize that Indian cuisine is saturated with complexity and inspiration. So saturated that, until recently, many chefs have avoided its volatile mysteries. Michael Romano, executive chef of the Union Square Cafe ...

    by Mark Stuertz on August 27, 1998
  • Article

    Hash Over

    Mysterious new venture Though he won't disclose its location, ex-dani Foods Executive Chef Kent Rathbun says he, businessman Robert Hoffman, and award-winning chef George Brown--his former dani cohorts--have settled on a location for their new re...

    by Mark Stuertz on August 27, 1998
  • Article

    Hash Over

    Texadelphia to blanket Texas Texadelphia operator Tom Landis says he has secured the rights to expand the Philly cheese-steak sandwich restaurant throughout the Lone Star state. In an agreement reached with Texadelphia founder and Philadelphia na...

    by Mark Stuertz on August 20, 1998
  • Article

    Busting big shoes - Revamped Seventeen Seventeen may overfill its considerable footwear inheritance

    Jaco Pastorius, the late fretless electric bass player who revolutionized the instrument in the late '70s with the jazz ensemble Weather Report, once said that good musicians borrow ideas. Geniuses steal them. Pastorius left little doubt as to h...

    by Mark Stuertz on August 20, 1998
  • Article

    Hash Over

    Star Canyon to hit Vegas Dallas kitsch meets the paradigm of taste. Star Concepts Vice President Michael Cox says Star Canyon and the company's developing taqueria restaurant will open in Las Vegas' new Venetian Hotel--a re-creation of Venice--wh...

    by Mark Stuertz on August 13, 1998
  • Article

    Two out of three ain't bad - The beer and the company are great at the Tipperary Inn. Just stay away from the food.

    There's one thing you can say about the best in Irish cuisine: If you drink too much of it, you completely lose the ability to enunciate consonants. Now, it would be way too easy to suggest that the Tipperary Inn is a great place to dine, as lon...

    by Mark Stuertz on August 13, 1998
  • Article

    Protein's protege - Unlike the calmness of Al Biernat the man, Biernat's the restaurant is a bit schizophrenic

    Al Biernat is a lot like Coca Cola, Disney, or General Electric. He's a rock-solid stock, the kind you might sink cash into if you had any hope of realizing a clean return on the financial grease trap that is the restaurant business. Just walk into h...

    by Mark Stuertz on August 6, 1998
  • Article

    Hash Over

    Champagne shutters In the wake of collapsing food quality and a largely absentee chef, Champagne restaurant shut down its lunch and dinner service in mid-July. Opening chef Bruno Mella, who had been shuttling between the Firehouse and Champagne, ...

    by Mark Stuertz on August 6, 1998
  • Article

    Hope sinks - Big Fish Little Fish's flavor doesn't match its wallet bite

    There's one thing you can say about Big Fish Little Fish, the new seafood boathouse on Henderson: It's got a great hook. It's cluttered with lots of kitschy seaside props such as a patio fashioned like a boat dock with a thick rope railing, a deck ma...

    by Mark Stuertz on July 30, 1998
  • Article

    Hash Over

    Papercity won't hurl barbs Targeting residents of Dallas' high-income 'hoods, Papercity, a clone of a slick rag spawned in Houston, will spare Dallas restaurants blood-letting criticism in its dining coverage, according to editor and former Dalla...

    by Mark Stuertz on July 30, 1998
  • Article

    Tuna surprise - A melding of menus breathes new life into PoPoLos

    A column appeared recently in The Wall Street Journal about the increasing tendency among writers and journalists to make full disclosures about themselves. These disclosures, which often appear parenthetically, are ostensibly made so readers won't t...

    by Mark Stuertz on July 23, 1998
  • Article

    Hash Over

    Clive and Stuart's closes After weeks of rumors that its demise was coming, Clive & Stuart's Island Cuisine on McKinney Avenue gave up the ghost, closing down July 12. One inside source says trucks pulled up to the restaurant at 2 a.m. following ...

    by Mark Stuertz on July 23, 1998
  • Article

    Hash Over

    Ocean Grill chef squeezed out Ocean Grill Executive Chef Willem De Froy, a founding chef of Sambuca, was forced out of the Plano seafood restaurant by owner Anson Chan after De Froy and his wife Amy's attempt to take it over crumbled, says Chan, ...

    by Mark Stuertz on July 16, 1998
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