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  • Article

    Liquid sky - Fort Worth's Flying Saucer offers a cozy space for quaffing alien beers

    What's gotten into Fort Worth lately? A few years ago, you could have filmed a sequel to The Omega Man downtown, the place was so deserted. Now you can't squirt a stream of Copenhagen without hitting one of the hundreds of amiable boulevardiers who p...

    by P.b. Miller on June 19, 1997
  • Article

    A tentative seduction - Coco Pazzo's designs on Dallas are off to a lukewarm start

    For several years, I have engaged in a one-way, anonymous (he knows my words, I know his food) correspondence with eccentric Dallas restaurateur Gene Street. That is, Gene, like my mother, mails me stuff he thinks I should read. For instance, a few m...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on June 12, 1997
  • Article

    Hot Dish

    I guess everyone has heard by now that D-Day--the day when Mario Leal's Chiquita will close--is almost here. Chiquita, pre-Matt, pre-Mi Cocina, was Dallas' destination Mexican restaurant and the special darling of those whose view of Mexican food we...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on June 12, 1997
  • Article

    Hitting the mark - Mark's on Henderson delivers on its promises

    The simplest criterion I have for rating a restaurant is integrity: Does it deliver what it promises, or not? If all a restaurant pledges to provide is a clean place to eat a decent burger, and that's all you get, then, in my opinion, it's a good res...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on June 5, 1997
  • Article

    Hot Dish

    Where to go for Sunday brunch is one of those frequently asked unanswerables. I don't do brunch often myself--there's something depressing about those long, silver-lidded lines of food, and brunch menus tend to be too rich for the time of day. But a ...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on June 5, 1997
  • Article

    Hot Dish

    Chip's, long known for the best burger 'n' fries meals in town (at least, that's always been my opinion) is now turning those griddles to another good use--breakfast. Pancakes, eggs, bacon, biscuits, you name it, in any number of combinations, with a...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on May 29, 1997
  • Article

    Amazing grace - Jim Severson's new restaurant has the Wright stuff

    It's appropriate that Paul Draper based his design for Sevy's Grill, chef Jim Severson's new restaurant in Preston Center, on prairie style, the peculiarly American form of architecture associated with Frank Lloyd Wright. It has been said (was said t...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on May 29, 1997
  • Article

    Hot Dish

    Every spring the Dallas chapter of the American Institute of Wine and Food presents the "Ethnic Market Tour," a chef-guided bus ride to some of Dallas' secret sources for unusual foodstuffs. Guests ride from Indian grocery to Vietnamese market, loadi...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on May 22, 1997
  • Article

    Ain't nothing like the real thing - La Tasca's full-blown Spanish fare was worth the wait

    The place was packed, as places usually are the evening following their first review. The waiters' gait quickened to an invisible trot, that parallel-to-the-ground shuffle that's adopted when you're in a desperate hurry but don't want anyone to perce...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on May 22, 1997
  • Article

    Hot Dish

    I took a friend who'd been fired recently over to Legal Grounds in Lakewood for some coffee and legal advice, but once we settled into easy chairs with cups of Colombian and a cookie, unemployment didn't look so bad. Certainly, it seemed better than ...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on May 15, 1997
  • Article

    Chicken-fried fake - Two more homestyle restaurants that Dallas doesn't need

    I've just about had it with home cooking. Dallas is awash in catfish and collard greens, filled with chicken-fried menus in homey digs manned (yes, that is the word I want) by substantial waitresses who should be named Mabel and call you honey, w...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on May 15, 1997
  • Article

    Hot Dish

    Most Dallasites already know what aroma they'll encounter when they order food flavored with "kah" or "kaffir," because Thai food has become a neighborhood option, like Mexican food or Vietnamese. (If you don't know, "kah" is similar to ginger root--...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on May 8, 1997
  • Article

    Taking a stand - Rebellious Chef Danielle Custer creates a risky menu for Laurels

    Plenty of women attend the prestigious CIA (that's Culinary Institute of America, the country's premier culinary training ground) in Hyde Park, just outside New York City. But if you count the high-profile women chefs in Dallas, you won't need a...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on May 8, 1997
  • Article

    Hot Dish

    Unlike many of us, Dallas chef Jim Severson has had more than one good idea. His classic American food philosophy made Dakota's a favorite for years (and suggests success for his own new restaurant, Sevy's). Severson was also the brain behind the eve...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on May 1, 1997
  • Article

    At sea - Clive & Stuart's island cuisine needs a culinary compass or a boardwalk

    Remember Grandpa Stupid in that classic children's book, The Stupids Die? "This isn't heaven, it's Cleveland," he explains to his descendants who can't tell the difference. It's so easy to mistake one place for another, but thankfully someone's almos...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on May 1, 1997
  • Article

    Taming Cowtown - The Basses put the 'fort' back in Fort Worth and bankroll a restaurateur's paradise

    "Why isn't this is in Dallas?" was the out-loud reaction of a friend when he first set eyes on USA Cafe. (From blocks away, I might add. You can't miss it, and I'd like to try.) Good question. USA Cafe--big, trendy, and mega in every way ("2...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on April 24, 1997
  • Article

    Hot Dish

    Fort Worth has recently become a dining mecca, but back when it was still a gastronomic desert, one of its oases was Reflections. (Reflections is so classy it's located on the mezzanine level--not the top--of the Worthington Hotel. In other words, th...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on April 24, 1997
  • Article

    The eternal Russian - Nothing's new about the Russian Room, and that's wonderful

    We were in the mood for "something different," that is, something that wasn't pasta, wasn't pesto, not new, not American--something, perhaps, that wasn't even grilled. We wanted to taste something that was not a fresh idea. The solution, it seemed, w...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on April 17, 1997
  • Article

    Hot Dish

    The cheesesteak, a dish indigenous to Philadelphia, has crept like kudzu onto fast food menus all across the country, and for the most part, who cares? Seldom is this sandwich worth a deviation from the strict burger line. But New England Cheesesteak...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on April 17, 1997
  • Article

    Questions of taste - Generic Harper's seems to have an answer to just about everything

    "I believe it's $4.95?" our friendly waiter answered when we wondered how much the manager's merlot selection o' the day was. "Um, I believe it's Monterey Jack?" he replied when we asked about the cheese on the chicken sandwich. It was just a trick o...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on April 17, 1997
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