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  • Article

    Thai one on - Two strip-mall restaurants offer decent, basic Southeast Asian fare

    Living in Dallas, among shiny mirrored buildings, burgeoning mutual funds, and low unemployment, it's easy to lose global perspective. The economy is acutely robust. There's a Nordstrom going into NorthPark. The Cowboys didn't do so hot, but there's ...

    by Mark Stuertz on January 14, 1999
  • Article

    Hash Over

    Stinky stogie? There's something funny going on at Lone Wolf, Chuck Norris' and Dennis Overstreet's restaurant and cigar and wine bar that appears to have been shuttered permanently. A rumor was circulating in late November that Lone Wolf was set...

    by Mark Stuertz on January 7, 1999
  • Article

    Bare-knuckle steak - Sullivan's isn't a knockout, but the points add up

    Just by their numbers and consistent rosters, steakhouses have inevitably become orgies of predictability. Everything is so much the same. No surprises. No skyscraper food threatening to puncture your chin. No bizarre sea creatures dressed in mango c...

    by Mark Stuertz on January 7, 1999
  • Article

    Let 'em eat loin - 1998 was a year of lusty carnivores, raw fish, and orgiastic indulgence

    Don't let your meat loaf Eating healthy is hazardous to your well-being. I can prove it. In the fall issue of American Outlook, writer Dennis Avery explains the inherent risks of poisoning your body with too much health consciousness. Accord...

    by Mark Stuertz on December 31, 1998
  • Article

    Hash Over

    Bull rider Lisa Balliet, opening executive chef of Stephan Pyles' AquaKnox before her sudden departure early last year, has turned up in Lakewood to undertake a new project: the transformation of The Cock & Bull. She'll partner with Cock & Bull o...

    by Mark Stuertz on December 24, 1998
  • Article

    Rough edges - Although the food is a cut above, Moonshine Cafe needs to sharpen its service

    On my first visit to Moonshine Cafe, the fine-dining divot below The Palace nightclub off Lower Greenville, my thoughts didn't coagulate around the "New Creole" menu. Or the New Orleans street-scene mural smeared on the rear wall with real windows sc...

    by Mark Stuertz on December 24, 1998
  • Article

    Hash Over

    Star shuffle Star Concepts--the group Carlson Restaurants Worldwide created to absorb Star Canyon and AquaKnox after the T.G.I. Friday's parent (presumably) gave owners Stephan Pyles, Michael Cox, and TCBY Enterprises President Herren Hickingboth...

    by Mark Stuertz on December 17, 1998
  • Article

    Swimming raw in Cowtown - Pangaea brings sushi and more to Fort Worth

    Pangaea has a beautiful fish tank lodged in one wall. Crowds of orange, purple, and striped cichlids (perchlike freshwater fish found in South America, Africa, Sri Lanka, and India) swim among the plants and reddish rocks. They look like submerged Ca...

    by Mark Stuertz on December 17, 1998
  • Article

    Hash Over

    Carrollton lights up Barely two weeks after the Dallas Environmental Health Commission held hearings exploring whether Dallas should toughen its relatively permissive public-smoking ordinance, the city of Carrollton eased its ban on smoking in pu...

    by Mark Stuertz on December 10, 1998
  • Article

    Pig in a poke - With mostly tasty meat, Texas de Brazil stumbles over swine

    Disturbing news hit the papers the day after Thanksgiving. The hog market collapsed. "Hog Market Collapses on Glut of Animals," read one headline. "Swine prices at the farm are at their lowest level in 27 years," said one report. Farmers are shipping...

    by Mark Stuertz on December 10, 1998
  • Article

    Rawhide Italian - Antonio Ristorante revels in successful simplicity

    There are many reasons to love carpaccio. First, the word rolls off the tongue with such musicality, it's impossible to avoid a self-satisfied smirk once the final vowel is successfully squeezed through puckered lips. Second, the dish is drenched in ...

    by Mark Stuertz on December 3, 1998
  • Article

    Hash Over

    Old San Francisco Old San Francisco Steak House, the San Antonio based restaurant chain featuring the "girl in the red velvet swing" where a young woman boards a bar swing every 45 minutes and kicks a pair of cow bells attached to the ceiling, ha...

    by Mark Stuertz on December 3, 1998
  • Article

    Hash Over

    Restaurant crash? The Wall Street Journal recently reported that stock market fluctuations are sending shivers through the New York restaurant scene. The Big Apple's dining frequency is in decline, high-end spending growth is flat, and restaurant...

    by Mark Stuertz on November 26, 1998
  • Article

    Getting to the heart - Pappas Brothers is belly-full of old-fashioned decadence

    Dining at Pappas Brothers Steakhouse left a question weighing heavily on my mind: What the hell has happened to cholesterol levels, blood pressure, and red meat phobia? The stench of such concerns doesn't pollute Pappas' ambiance. It's as though it's...

    by Mark Stuertz on November 26, 1998
  • Article

    Mountain of hope - Food is rocky, but Ararat still rises

    Food isn't everything. Other elements play a significant role in a successful dining experience. For one, there's service that delivers clean forks with every course instead of placing the dirty one from your finished plate next to your white shirtsl...

    by Mark Stuertz on November 19, 1998
  • Article

    Hash Over

    Butt ban? Members of the Dallas Environmental Health Commission put the screws to the restaurant industry late last week, and well they should. During a hearing considering toughened city smoking regulations, representatives of the Greater Dallas...

    by Mark Stuertz on November 19, 1998
  • Article

    Hash Over

    Wolf refugees start anew After bowing out of Lone Wolf Cafe in late October, former Mansion maitre d' Wayne Broadwell and Sipango partner and founding chef Matthew Antonovich are planning to launch a new upscale restaurant in Dallas. The restaura...

    by Mark Stuertz on November 12, 1998
  • Article

    Big glossies and big platters - Maggiano's is more photo finish than finished food

    I have a theory. The necessary evidence has not yet been assembled to prove it, but the more I dine out, the more the world seems to conform to its basic premise. The theory is this: The quality of a restaurant's food and service is inversely pr...

    by Mark Stuertz on November 12, 1998
  • Article

    Hash Over

    Help wanted After six years as assistant general manager, Scott Shoenberger ended his stint with the Melrose Hotel, home of the Landmark restaurant, last week. He's off to Hartford, Connecticut, where he will head the 271-room Hastings Internatio...

    by Mark Stuertz on November 5, 1998
  • Article

    Rice brewhaha - The Blue Fish menusinks in a river of sake

    The Japanese lust for fugu, or puffer fish, is one of the most fascinating yet perplexing obsessions in the culinary universe. It's served thinly sliced as sashimi or in nabemono, one-pot meals cooked at the table in broth or oil. Yet for all its cul...

    by Mark Stuertz on November 5, 1998
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