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  • Article

    A tasteful toast - City Cafe shuns pretense to remain a favorite celebration spot

    Last week, City Cafe hosted an event pairing wild mushrooms with Pinot noir--a perfectly natural pairing if you believe the law of the land, since the same cool climate that produces fungus is also encouraging to the Pinot noir grape, the same reason...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on October 24, 1996
  • Article

    Hot Dish

    There are people who will never move to New York because of, for instance, the scarcity of Dr Pepper, a beverage that inspires fanatical loyalty in some people. The plant in Dublin, Texas, is the oldest continuously working bottler of Dr Pepper and t...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on October 24, 1996
  • Article

    Just OK - Perennial people's choice Al Dente is Dallas' Best Pretty Good Italian

    Al Dente has been one of the most popular restaurants on Lower Greenville for years, repeatedly named in one people's poll or another (including ours) as The Best Italian Restaurant. It only proves once again what a dubious prize is popularity. The a...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on October 17, 1996
  • Article

    Coming home - Arunee's knows that there's more to dining than good food

    One of the drawbacks of eating out professionally is that you necessarily forgo one of the prime delights of restaurant dining--having a home away from your own. The real delight of dining out comes when you've eaten at a restaurant often enough to b...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on October 17, 1996
  • Article

    Hot Dish

    Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Jerez, Navarra, and Tias Baixas may not be as familiar as Russian River, but they should be. Spain is one of the great wine-producing countries of the world, but in America it always has been overshadowed by France, Californi...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on October 17, 1996
  • Article

    Tasting the rainbow - Even if its service is Dallas monochrome--Lavendou offers a superb palette of Provencal

    I'm scheduled to speak to my fourth-grader's class next week about what I do for a living. Of course, I'm nervous--you can't bluff fourth graders. I'm supposed to discuss with the class how to describe a taste, using words besides "awesome," "gross,"...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on October 10, 1996
  • Article

    Distant lands - Uncle Chow has the best Chinese takeout. Too bad it's take-way-out

    OK, this is the kind of ridiculous experience you let yourself in for when you have a job like this one. Good Chinese food is rare in Dallas, so we especially wanted to try a new takeout Chinese restaurant that we'd heard was excellent. Uncle Chow ha...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on October 10, 1996
  • Article

    Hot Dish

    Treebeard's is a chain out of Houston--not a promising origin for a cafe with a Louisiana bill of fare, but Treebeard's is a regular destination for downtowners who lunch, and rightly so. Red beans and rice and etouffee are reliable. The gazpacho, ev...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on October 10, 1996
  • Article

    What's in a name? - Hunky's serves up a great burger--hot buns, too

    Hunky's. Speaking of names, "Hunky's" is the worst--too easy a target even to aim at. But the place has been around so long, no one probably even notices. This is a Happy Days hamburger heaven, updated slightly (there's grilled chicken on the menu) a...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on October 3, 1996
  • Article

    Hot Dish

    By now you know that Julia Child is coming to Dallas. But you may not know that besides paying beaucoup bucks to watch Julia eat and schmooze at her KERA fundraiser, you also can pay to watch her do what she actually won our hearts and became famous ...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on October 3, 1996
  • Article

    No fizz - Bellini's follows the rules--unfortunately

    Life has its rules of thumb ("Never start a sentence with 'but'"; "Your line at the bank will always be the longest one"). Some rules lose their meaning as the culture changes ("Don't date a guy with a tattoo," a rule made before you had to take two ...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on October 3, 1996
  • Article

    Hot Dish

    The Kozy Kitchen's label says it's "The Home of Delicious Desserts" and that's true, but you can't overlook that it also is the home of delicious breakfasts, because this is probably the best coffeecake you ever put in your mouth, moist with sour cre...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on September 19, 1996
  • Article

    Short ciao line - Dallas has yet to grow good Italian dining

    Some places in this country--New York; San Francisco; Chicago; and Krebs, Oklahoma, come immediately to mind--have always had great Italian food. And not just great Italian food. Lots of great Italian food. They have grocery stores that sell handmade...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on September 19, 1996
  • Article

    Hot Dish

    Mozzarella Company, Dallas' only cheese factory, is famous for its fabulous goat cheese, its fresh ricotta, and even for its mozzarella. Now owner Paula Lambert has actually invented a new cheese, a mozzarella made from a mixture of goat's milk and c...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on September 12, 1996
  • Article

    No questions - Ignoring food trends, Arthur's does it like it always has--with a flourish

    If you don't believe Faith Popcorn is always right, take a drive down Lovers Lane. This was once Dallas' own fashion row--anchored by fabulous Lou Lattimore at one end and exclusive Marie Leavell at the other, with the razor's edge Gazebo in between....

    by Mary Brown Malouf on September 12, 1996
  • Article

    Being there - Pool tables and glitzy food make a joint the Joint

    I recently read--and probably you did, too, admit it or not--that Joey, owner of Joey's, the unbearably hot spot on Oak Lawn, is presenting neckties to a "select" group of customers. If you are wearing your Joey's tie, which says "Joey's" in a bright...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on September 5, 1996
  • Article

    Hot Dish

    Hot dogs and frozen custard. It doesn't sound like an original idea, but when you think about it, where can you treat yourself to such a meal outside the circus, where it costs approximately as much as an ounce of sevruga? Wild About Harry's, that's ...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on September 5, 1996
  • Article

    Hot Dish

    Celebration, the grandmother of hippie home-cooking restaurants, has been overwhelmingly popular since its opening. In fact, the only drawback to dining there is the bankable line and the no-reservation policy. The good news is that now you can enjoy...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on August 29, 1996
  • Article

    Tastefully out of style - Corny name, delicious quiche--could ST be any more out of it?

    "ST" stands for "Sweet Temptations." Get it? That's right, another bad restaurant name for a charming, personal cafe. And like Going Gourmet, ST Cafe is a business that grew out of customer demand. Sweet Temptations is a bakery that became a bistro; ...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on August 29, 1996
  • Article

    Unconventional wisdom - Going Gourmet created itself in the image of its customers

    "Eatertainment" is a real word I recently read in a respected restaurant business publication. "Eatertainment." You immediately can see what it means, and all you can do is mentally shake your fork at the establishments whose success has all...

    by Mary Brown Malouf on August 29, 1996
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From the Print Edition

Stock and Barrel's New America Stock and Barrel's New America

Staring down at my plate at Jon Stevens' newly minted Stock and Barrel in the Bishop Arts District, it's hard not to conclude, suddenly and depressingly, that I got the… More >>

John Tesar's Knife Is More Than Another Dallas Steakhouse John Tesar's Knife Is More Than Another Dallas Steakhouse

Until recently, the recipe for a steakhouse hasn't been much more complicated than the recipe for perfectly cooked steak. Fill a sizable dining room with leather booths and a sharp-looking… More >>

Steel City Pops Sizzle and Chill

From behind the counter looking out onto Greenville Avenue it’s hard to tell where the line for ice pops ends. One or two customers prop open the door, obscuring the… More >>

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