Coming Soon to NorthPark: The Theodore, a Restaurant Worth Braving the Mall

Baked goods from Austin's Easy Tiger are headed to a glitzy mall near you.
Baked goods from Austin's Easy Tiger are headed to a glitzy mall near you.
Scott Reitz

NorthPark Center will be getting a new restaurant this fall. Wait! Don't go! This restaurant is actually interesting. Where you'd expect another moderately priced Phil Romano chain restaurant, this new spot looks like it could be reason enough for a trip to the mall whether you need a new pair of A.P.C jeans or not.

It's called The Theodore, and for starters, resident hero of the smoldering flame Tim Byres has taken charge of the menu, and he's promising plenty of the meaty dishes he's gained a reputation for over at Smoke. Expect Oxtail and beef shank stuffed peppers with white bean purée, and dry cured ham and fruit mustard toasts. Byres plans to build on his recent shift toward family-style dishes at Smoke, so you can fawn over communal cheese plates with your friends while you talk about that epic mid-season sale at Nordstrom.

What's most exciting, though, in terms of something new being offered in Dallas, is the restaurant's bread program, helmed by consulting baker David Norman. If you've ever been to Easy Tiger in Austin, there is very little chance you emerged without experiencing some of Norman's exemplary baked goods. That's his pretzel pictured above, and the numerous sandwiches I've had at the restaurant and bakery all leave me excited for what's to come to Dallas.

In true Easy Tiger form, the bakery will be open to spectators. Customers can watch as dough is kneaded and dropped into forms, and as golden loaves are pulled from the oven. Imagine bathing in the smells of freshly baked bread as you make your way to Macy's. Imagine the inner turmoil bouncing around in your brain as you debate the impact of excess carbohydrates on your ability to fit into another pair of skinny jeans.

Expect those inner monologues to kick off sometime this fall. I might not be the person to ask, but I'd side with the sweet yeast rolls over the skin-tight denim.


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