Dallas' Most Interesting Restaurants No. 22: Small Brewpub
The dishes at Small turn brewpub cliches on their heads.
Leading up to our annual Best of Dallas® issue, we're counting down the 50 most interesting restaurants in Dallas. These spots bring something unique or compelling to the city's dining scene, feeding both your appetite and soul.
Normally, brewpubs produce menus that represent everything this list is not about. Picture pretzels with some sort of dip made with beer and cheese, a dry burger and a nacho platter. Brewpubs are supposed to focus on brewing beer; the food is an afterthought. Unless, of course, we're talking about Small Brewpub in Oak Cliff.
Sure, the spot opened late last year and has proceeded to turn out some exemplary beer. Don't pay the place a visit and pass up the peppercorn pilsner, and then do your best to work your way through their well-curated cocktails list.
But it's the food that really makes Small stand out — and not just for a brewpub. The pastas are rolled out by hand, the sauces and condiments are made on-site (all the way down to the vinegars) and chef Misti Norris oversees a house charcuterie program packed with delicious swine, including face bacon.
Then there are the pickled eggs, jerky and other snacks. It's a wonder that this place can even be referred to as a brewpub at all. Sure, there are fermentation tanks filled with beer in the corner, but Norris produces cooking that's on par with fine-dining. It's impossible to get bored while eating here.
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