Dallas' Most Interesting Restaurants No. 25: La Pasadita

Leading up to our annual Best of Dallas® issue, we're counting down the 50 most interesting restaurants in Dallas. These spots bring something unique or compelling to the city's dining scene, feeding both your appetite and soul.

Any list that gives me an excuse to revisit the papusas at La Pasadita is a good one. Years after reviewing the tiny stand, I still duck my head in now and again for what I contend are the best papusas available in Dallas. That they're a little over a buck a piece further greases the skids, and I'd eat here at least once a week if my job permitted it.

The secret is the pork cooking on that grill pictured below. After it simmers in broth until it nearly falls apart, it's turned out on the flat top and chopped until it's reduced to tiny strings. Then it sears, getting the occasional turn and a ladle or two of pork juices that erupt from the grill in a big cloud of steam.

When the pork is done it's crunchy in bits and adds texture to the finished papusas almost as much as it adds flavor, and then cheese binds everything together in a masa package that's sealed with a second kiss on the grill. Things get even better with a crunchy salad of lightly fermented cabbage that adds crunch, and a spicy salsa that adds more tang and plenty of heat. Only a masochist would pick up that jalapeño and get to business, but a precious few hot heads will appreciate that it's there.

Don't be discouraged by this papuseria's location. The convenience store is humble and small but you'll know you made the right decision when you've walked through the door.

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