A couple of days ago, Deep Ellum Brewing Company posted on their Facebook page that they’re serving lunch now — a full menu that includes elote-covered tater tots, pizza, tacos and beer. After my car’s tires squeal in anticipation, I plop into the cool steel taproom.
Little bar games are on the table, a mini-Connect Four on the counter next to me. Speaking of games, their menu is loaded like an intelligently-played board of Settlers of Catan: There are three versions of tater tots, holy-shit nachos that turn heads when they come out of the kitchen, hot wings, tacos, pizza and — wait for it — four burgers.
I’m here to try the fourth burger, the Rollin Stoned, which is a quarter-pound slab of Angus beef patty topped with macaroni and cheese, mashed potatoes and green onions. What kind of monster would I be if I didn’t order this on a lunch break?
The Rollin Stoned is a brilliant chess move from the DEBC taproom. After several lunch beers, what vacant soul wouldn’t be topped-off like a bucket of overflowing Velveeta at the sight of a macaroni and cheese and mashed potato-covered burger on its way from the kitchen?
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You see the malevolent plan, right? Deep Ellum Brewing Company is working to ensure that you never leave the taproom. The heavy brewery door will shut behind you. You down a few beers, devour a macaroni-and-cheese-mashed-potato-topped burger, and then suddenly, it will be night, four days later. The moon will be high and full, and you’ll have cheese flakes on the corner of your mouth. Your brain will be foggy, emails from the boss and calls from significant others blowing up your phone. Stay ... have a nacho tower, DEBC might say in a dark whisper. Maybe you will.
The menu mentions Texas Toast, but my mac and cheese burger came on soft, fresh sourdough-hinted bread. The burger is cooked a tad heavily (mine has a mysterious sausage flavor) and the aforementioned mac and cheese is as creamy you’d expect. It’s at this moment that it’s important to note that my macaroni and cheese came folded into the mashed potatoes. It wasn’t a scoop of mac and cheese, then a separate scoop of green-onion showered mashed potatoes. No, it was mixed together like some evil carb spell.
Speaking of, I’m looking forward to returning for the great tower of nachos that I saw roll out of the kitchen. Smart move, Deep Ellum Brewery. Smart move.
Deep Ellum Brewing Company, 2823 St Louis St.