Dude Food: Burguesa Burger
Noah W. Bailey
2222 Inwood Road
Dude Factor: 6, or Dean Hodes, on a scale of 1 (Peter Scottson) to 10 (Andy Botwin).
Back when it first opened in May, everyone around the Observer offices was buzzing about Burguesa Burger, the new Latin-targeted burger stand from Which Wich and Genghis Grill founder Jeff Sinelli. After all, it's just down the street from DO headquarters.
We didn't make it over there at the time, however, mostly because we'd always forget about it at lunch and were never ready for dinner before they closed at 7 p.m.--just in time for the elderly Latinos that didn't feel like Luby's that night to get their burger fix.
Realizing the fact that Dude Food had yet to try this new burger joint (within spitting distance no less), we decided to posse up and hit Burguesa Burger on our lunch break Monday. It was, as they say, asi asi.
Considering the joint only offers three varieties of burger--burguesa, burguesa with cheese and the La Monumental (we'll get to that later)--one would think these burguesas would really be something to write home about, or perhaps even call long distance should su familia live in Mexico (Burguesa offers a free phone call south of the border to every customer) Unfortunately, this is not the case...
Ordering at the walk up window, I opted for the burguesa with cheese. It was a perfectly fine skinny burger, but didn't exactly live up to the hype--in fact, I'd put it about on par with the offerings at Sonic. Same goes for the fries, which have apparently already undergone one recipe change to arrive at the current Sonic-esque incarnation. Considering the tasty pure cane sugar sodas (Available flavors: Cola, Lemon-Lime, Orange and Grapefruit)--the only really outstanding part of our meal--maybe they should just call this place Burguesa Sonic.
As for the La Monumental, Dude Food compatriot Ricky was more than up to the challenge, ordering the Number 3 behemoth (complete with two patties, two slices of cheese, ham, avocado, lettuce, tomato, onion, refried beans, a crunchy tostada and Burguesa's "special creamy sauce") while belittling the rest of our orders.
Clearly, Sinelli must have been high when he came up with this offering. In fact, if you think about it, he was probably high when he came up with the concepts for Which Wich and Genghis Grill, too ("You mean I can put whatever I want in a big bowl and this guy will cook it for me? Awesome!")
Burguesa even adorns its milkshakes with a little chocolate donut encircling the straw. ("You mean I can get a burger AND donuts? Hahahahahahaha...I love you guys")
But I digress.
As Ricky plowed headfirst into the La Monumental, I sensed waning enthusiasm with every bite. Finally, he put his frustration into words--"eh, it just tastes like a nacho burger." A good nacho burger, but not a monumental one.
Maybe Sinelli and his stoner pals just need to go tip some better cows.
Get the Dining Newsletter
The week's top local food news and events, plus interviews with chefs and restaurant owners, dining tips, and a peek at our print review.