Eat This: the Garnachas at Tacoqueta

Meet garnachas, your greasy but delicious antojitos of choice at Tacoqueta
Meet garnachas, your greasy but delicious antojitos of choice at Tacoqueta
Scott Reitz

The menu at Tacoqueta makes bold claims for a neighborhood taqueria. The tostada pictured below is the best in town, for instance. And the garnachas pictured above is one of the best antojitos to make its way out of Veracruz and into the States. I won't endorse any superlative descriptions of either dish, but I will say both are worth seeking out, if only to spend a little time in Tacoqueta's humble but comely dining room.

As soon as you pull open the door you're greeted by an oddly shaped, angular bar table topped with textured stainless steel. You can order at the window, but if you grab a seat one of the exceedingly polite waitresses will be right over to see you. I was there for a late lunch, and the place was mostly empty save for two dudes hovering over empty plastic baskets and pulling on massive tumblers filled with horchata.

The garnachas features pulled beef on a greasy tortilla painted with spicy chili sauce. Diced onions added a little crunch and the whole thing could be picked up and inhaled just like a taco. The tostada was as big as my dinner plate, and featured a thick tostada shell topped with beans, the same beef, lettuce, avocado slivers and an aggressive crema drizzle. In the morning, breakfast tacos supposedly come on handmade tortillas, but the barbacoa was served on the same humble double-stack tortillas you find in most taquerias. Still, with one of the three searingly hot salsas on the table it made for a memorable taco.

Tacoqueta has some polish, from its well-finished dining room to its attention-grabbing logo featuring an ample-breasted señorita spilling out over the restaurant's name. If you're looking for an off-the-beaten path taqueria that's past the Jefferson and Davis Street locations most Oak Cliff taco hunters frequent, it's worth a look. And if Tacoqueta isn't your thing, it's dangerously close to our old favorite, Los Torres Taqueria. 

Tacoqueta, 2324 W. Clarendon Drive, 214-943-9991, tacoqueta.com

Eat This: the Garnachas at Tacoqueta
Scott Reitz

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