Finding Barbacoa Estillo Hidalgo Takes Effort, but It's So Worth It

Hey dog. I see you hiding.
Hey dog. I see you hiding.

"It's down 175, somewhere around Lake June Road," Nico Sanchez, the chef at Meso Maya told me about the taqueria he knew very little else about. He knew the intersection it was near, but not an address or phone number. And he knew it was only open on the weekends for breakfast and lunch. But when I asked him where the best tacos in Dallas were, he knew for sure this was the place I had to find.

See also: Barbacoa Estilo Hidalgo Masters Real Slow Food

So one Saturday morning I hopped in the car and drove down C.F. Hawn Freeway hoping I'd smell roasting masa when I got to the Lake June Road exit. I took the off-ramp, then turned right on an access road, and felt very lucky when I quickly stumbled on the sign pictured above.

Finding Barbacoa Estillo Hidalgo Takes Effort, but It's So Worth It

Just up a hill past that sign I found Barbacoa Estillo Hidalgo, and I returned the next three weekends in a row. The second time I visited with friends because I was excited to share the experience with fellow taco enthusiasts. I went back a third time to interview Raymundo Sanchez and learn how he roasts the most flavorful lamb barbacoa I've ever encountered. (And to eat a few more tacos.)

In my introduction to my recent cover story chronicling my favorite dishes from 2012, I urged diners to get out of their comfort zones and try new restaurants. If you haven't gotten started yet, consider Barbacoa Estillo Hidalgo your first assignment. Not only are their barbacoa tacos one of my favorite dishes in Dallas, but finding this restaurant will undoubtedly be one of my favorite memories of the time I spend here.

Barbacoa Estilo Hidalgo 6131 Lake June Place, 214-600-3240 6 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturday and Sunday only.

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