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"It's the muddy flavor of the wild-caught fish, coupled with the animal's homely appearance, that long ago gave catfish a reputation in many parts of the country as a trash fish." (Hunter Lewis, writing in the March issue of Saveur magazine, in what ends up as praise for bland farm-raised fish. There was always something rough and appealing about line caught catfish. It was a trash fish loved by rural poor throughout the South. In a food-savvy world that increasingly praises authenticity and heirloom flavors, people favor the flavorless farm raised meat.)