Mico Rodriguez and His Growing Tex-Mex Empire Are Putting Mi Cocina to Shame
The nachos at Mr. Mesero.
I'm getting excited. Mesero, Mico Rodriguez's latest restaurant, is slated to open in a few more weeks in the Inwood Plaza. I'm curious to see how it will fit in with the rest of the Mesero family.
It doesn't seem so long ago that Rodriguez was preparing to open Mr. Mesero, his first restaurant after a legal battle removed him from the Mi Cocina empire he helped build. If you want to dig around in the dirt, D has a lengthy profile of the restaurateur that covers his rise and fall within the M Crowd Restaurant Group.
Mr. Mesero opened to favorable reviews, and it wasn't long after that a subsequent Mesero Miguel was slated for Henderson Avenue. I reviewed the sequel last year, and payed it a visit recently for our 100 Favorite Dishes project. He's serving what may be the best Tex-Mex/Mexican cooking to be had in Dallas right now. If you're looking for chicken enchiladas smothered in a bright salsa verde, this is the place to go. There's a lot of other good stuff there, too.
Compare that to a recent meal I had at Mi Cocina, which featured the decent but lifeless food that's become expected of the restaurant chain as of late, and I think it's safe to say that for now Rodriguez is kicking his predecessor's asses. It's pretty cool to watch a man in his renaissance.
Mesero will embrace an American spirit and Mexican life. It says so on a sign that was hung above the door about a month ago, and tells you that unlike the M Crowd, Rodriguez is making subtle tweaks to each restaurant to keep things new, while each Mi Cocina is a carbon copy of itself. Other shots posted to Facebook show a sleek dining room with glass tiled accents, wood-covered walls, and plenty of booths. When it opens we'll be sure to have a first look, but I can't stop wondering what's coming down the pike after this one. I don't think Rodriguez will be satisfied with a hat trick.
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