Modmarket Is Spreading Across Dallas, and Is Worth Your Attention
A gas-fired oven turns out attractive pizzas
I wasn't expecting much from the pizza I'd ordered at Modmarket. This is a fast-casual chain based in Denver, for starters, and they use an unimpressive gas-fired oven. But there it was on an aluminum tray, with a decent, if dry-looking cornicione. The basil had gone brown, but the tomato sauce was bright, and the whole thing wasn't weighed down by too much mozzarella. It was, I had to admit, an attractive pizza.
I picked up a slice and got even more excited. The crust didn't have the bubbly structure I was hoping for, but it was soft and delicate. It lacked those tangy notes I associate with a well developed fermentation, but it still had some flavor. The pizza tasted as good as it looked. I ate the whole thing.
Your friendly neighborhood mod market
All photos Scott Reitz
I was at the new Modmarket on the corner of Walnut Hill and the Central Expressway, which opened in February. This was the third location to open in the Dallas area, and it sat near a Vertskebap, Blue Sushi Sake Grill and a Trader Joe's in a plaza so new it looks like the mortar is still drying.
Outside, a sign promises farm fresh eating, and while I can say for certain the tomatoes on my pizza were not trucked in from a farm the previous day, all of the ingredients I encountered were fresh and vibrant. The insides are decked out like most restaurants are these days, with lots of exposed wood and Edison bulbs. It looks a little like a CBD Provisions café.
Edison bulbs in the dining room for that hip vibe.
If you're not feeling the 'za, there are sandwiches on the menu and they make use of soft but crusty bread. There's also a salad station.
The sandwiches are made on better bread than most Dallas restaurants.
If you're one of those salad-eating calorie counters, you might be interested to know the receipts have a calorie count printed on them. You can see each dish, and then the grand total, but you don't see anything until you pay and are handed that slip. I wonder how orders would change if they gave you your calorie total along with the cost of your meal. You might decide to cancel that cookie you impulse ordered.
Get the Food & Drink Newsletter
Our weekly guide to Dallas dining includes food news and reviews, as well as dining events and interviews with chefs and restaurant owners.