Qariah Is Making Some Bang-Up Chicken Sandwiches

Not all chicken sandwiches are created equal.
Not all chicken sandwiches are created equal.

I want to love the shawarma at Qariah, but they don't sell enough of them. If you've ever seen the vertical spit at Bachman Lake Taqueria spinning full tilt, you know it's a sight to behold. The meatsicle sizzles as it twirls, spitting fat at the burners, which hiss and pop. But when business is slow the burners idle. The meat is quiet, and it doesn't have the same charred and delicious flavor.

Qariah's shawarma would likely be as impressive as those trompo tacos if people stood in line to order them, but they don't, so I've been eating the shish tawook sandwich instead. It's actually pretty damn delicious.

Cubes of chicken breast are marinated in yogurt, turmeric and other spices overnight before a cook threads them on a skewer and grills them over hot coals. The meat is very tender and juicy and lightly charred. The chicken joins lettuce, tomato and pickles in a flat bread baked by Baklava Bakery in Arlington.

If that's not enough, the whole sandwich grilled in a panini press till it's nice and crisp. And then there's that garlic puree served in a ramekin on the side. I like smearing a little bit as I eat bite by bite.

The shish tawook beats the heck out of the grilled chicken sandwiches you get at most restaurants. Actually it beats out most of the sandwiches of any type at other bars and restaurants around Dallas.

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