Restaurant Reviews

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Gemma Is Making Beautiful Food, from Sea to Briny Sea Gemma Is Making Beautiful Food, from Sea to Briny Sea
If you're tired of Henderson Avenue, here's your way out.
, April 17, 2014
The first time you pull up to Gemma, it can be difficult to pin down what you've gotten yourself into. While you thumb your wallet for small... More >>
Victor Tangos' Reluctant Makeover Victor Tangos' Reluctant Makeover
This Henderson Avenue mainstay has changed a lot since opening five years ago. It also hasn't changed at all.
, April 10, 2014
If you hadn't seen them hoist the sign into place, or otherwise been familiar with Victor Tangos' facade, you would likely miss it. The new sign... More >>
The Blind Butcher Has a Vision for Meat The Blind Butcher Has a Vision for Meat
And it's got the beer goggles to match.
, April 03, 2014
Cured meats and craft beer. Simmered down to its tagline, Blind Butcher is about what you'd expect from its founders, Goodfriend veterans Matt... More >>
CrushCraft Is Not the Thai You Know but the Thai You Should CrushCraft Is Not the Thai You Know but the Thai You Should
Two men brought a whole lot of chiles to Uptown, and they're burning things up.
, March 27, 2014
On a recent Friday afternoon, CrushCraft gave off the appearance of a restaurant that was firing on all cylinders. Customers from nearby office... More >>
Irving's Everest Restaurant Is a Worthy Trek Irving's Everest Restaurant Is a Worthy Trek
Traversing Himalaya in search of something big, bold and BYOB.
, March 20, 2014
Everest Restaurant is a little Nepalese hole in the floor located far enough out in Irving that you will probably only visit when you're on the... More >>
At the Boiling Crab, Waiting (and Waiting and Waiting) for Perfection At the Boiling Crab, Waiting (and Waiting and Waiting) for Perfection
Hungry for crawfish? It's gonna be a while.
, March 13, 2014
On the weekends outside The Boiling Crab the action in the parking lot is just shy of chaotic — not as bad as the pavement that surrounds Trader... More >>
The Remaking of Origin Kitchen and Bar The Remaking of Origin Kitchen and Bar
This McKinney Avenue restaurant isn't what it used to be — but is still worth your attention.
, March 06, 2014
Step into Origin Kitchen and Bar and you'll be clutched by anticipation. It shines down from the metal shop-light fixtures and oozes from the... More >>
Miss Chi's Pho and the Battle for Noodle Supremacy Miss Chi's Pho and the Battle for Noodle Supremacy
Ramen is hot, but don't sleep on pho. At least not without a straw handy.
, February 27, 2014
While your fellow soup fiends get lost in an expanding tangle of ramen noodles, you'd do well to take notice of the smaller yet no less delicious... More >>
Local Oak Kicks it Family Style Local Oak Kicks it Family Style
Not that you can't get a beer and a shot if you want to
, February 20, 2014
Staring down at a plate like this, it's easy to forget you're in a new Oak Cliff restaurant. Picture two massive slabs of seared meatloaf,... More >>
Seeing Green at True Food Kitchen Seeing Green at True Food Kitchen
Customers longing for something lighter weigh heavy on this new Preston Hollow restaurant.
, February 13, 2014
If the past month's dismal performance of the Dow Jones has you spooked on stocks this year, there's good reason. The old trader's axiom that "as... More >>
A Year Later, Max's Wine Dive Still Makes a Splash A Year Later, Max's Wine Dive Still Makes a Splash
But the gourmet in this comfort food gets lost in translation.
, February 06, 2014
Walk into Max's Wine Dive on a random weekend evening, and you might wonder if it's opening night. It's been a year since the restaurant, which... More >>
Bonchon's Korean Crispy Goodness Bonchon's Korean Crispy Goodness
Not all great fried chicken comes from the South.
, January 30, 2014
To most Southerners, the mere mention of fried chicken conjures very specific flavor and tactile expectations. There are brines, almost always of... More >>
El Come Taco: A New Taqueria with an Old Soul in East Dallas El Come Taco: A New Taqueria with an Old Soul in East Dallas
But we promise, Dallas: It's new!
, January 23, 2014
Luis Villalva is a short-statured man with a round, happy face and a soft voice, and he may be Dallas' most likeable taquero. He'll happily... More >>
In Uptown, The Rustic Tries to Go Rural, and Almost Nails It In Uptown, The Rustic Tries to Go Rural, and Almost Nails It
This ain't your average city bar
, January 16, 2014
If Kyle Noonan and Josh Sepkowitz, the pair behind Bowl and Barrel, Mutts and now The Rustic, have achieved anything with their latest restaurant... More >>
In Trinity Groves, LUCK Needs More Skill to Survive In Trinity Groves, LUCK Needs More Skill to Survive
A few glimmers shine through lackluster execution.
, January 09, 2014
Those who have spent the last decade or so calling Margaret Hunt Hill's namesake a bridge to nowhere are running out of nothingness to shake... More >>
Food Trends That Need to Die in 2014 Food Trends That Need to Die in 2014
, January 02, 2014
Here are a few food trends that have become ubiquitous and shed the sheen of novelty — now they're just dull and sometimes annoying, in spite of... More >>
The Best Meals I Ate in Dallas in 2013 The Best Meals I Ate in Dallas in 2013
What does a year's worth of meals say about where Dallas' restaurants are headed next?
, December 26, 2013
We are living in a city dangling on the precipice of a culinary revolution. I'm sure of it. In the past year I've dined all over Dallas and... More >>
In Deep Ellum, Alligator Cafe Has That Special Sauce In Deep Ellum, Alligator Cafe Has That Special Sauce
And we're not (just) talking about the Voodoo.
, December 19, 2013
Service goes a long way in the restaurant business. A waiter's friendly demeanor can convince a small party to order two desserts instead of one,... More >>
At The Joule, CBD Provisions Makes Magic from Nose to Tail At The Joule, CBD Provisions Makes Magic from Nose to Tail
, December 12, 2013
Before the salt and sugar brine permeated and seasoned the flesh, before the impossibly crisp skin emerged from the convection oven, before the... More >>
All Hail The Monkey King All Hail The Monkey King
Deep Ellum's new noodle shop is worth the wait -- even in the elements.
, December 05, 2013
It is a scene that belongs in a thousand places, the last of which is Dallas. On Main Street in Deep Ellum, past the cluster of bars and... More >>
Tanoshii Rode the Ramen Wave to Dallas and Crashed Tanoshii Rode the Ramen Wave to Dallas and Crashed
A popular trend noodles its way into Dallas' dining scene. Watch out for undercurrents.
, November 28, 2013
While there were certainly ramen restaurants in New York City before David Chang began rolling and cutting his alkaline noodles in the East... More >>
Sheba's Ethiopian Kitchen Cooks with Soul Sheba's Ethiopian Kitchen Cooks with Soul
With heady spices, fresh ingredients and loads of butter, this restaurant will send you home with a happy stomach.
, November 21, 2013
The first time I encountered the phenomenon, I was sitting at the bar at Sheba's Ethiopian Kitchen, my fingers pinching a small portion of raw... More >>
At Mesero Miguel, Great Plates Lost in the Crowd At Mesero Miguel, Great Plates Lost in the Crowd
Mico Rodriguez's latest tries to do too many things to communicate any of them well.
, November 14, 2013
Not long after walking into Mesero Miguel, you may start to wonder whether the restaurants that failed in this two-story space could have made it... More >>
Dee Lincoln's Steak and Burger Bar: Great Steak, But Do We Need More Red Meat? Dee Lincoln's Steak and Burger Bar: Great Steak, But Do We Need More Red Meat?
, November 07, 2013
Dee Lincoln could have opened any kind of restaurant on Howell Street, but she decided to stick with what she knows best. The restaurant maven is... More >>
A Welcome Truck Yard in a Food-truck Wasteland A Welcome Truck Yard in a Food-truck Wasteland
With his East Dallas Truck Yard, Jason Boso helps Dallas finally do food trucks right.
, October 31, 2013
With your backside sinking into the crosshatched nylon of a well-loved lawn chair, a cold beer in your fist and perhaps a few crumpled napkins... More >>
Village Kitchen, the Land of Nostalgia and a Great Sloppy Burger Village Kitchen, the Land of Nostalgia and a Great Sloppy Burger
The burger is wonderfully messy -- but not all the messiness is so welcome.
, October 24, 2013
The three of us had our spoons at the ready the second the dessert plate landed on the table. Smothered with whipped cream, flecked with... More >>
Kitchen LTO's Device Kitchen LTO's Device
Pop-up dining may be a fine enough pull, but only great food will keep the diners returning
, October 17, 2013
When Kitchen LTO opened earlier this summer, the "permanent pop-up" promised to be at least the most interesting restaurant at Trinity Groves.... More >>
At Zoli's, a Slice of Brooklyn, by the Slice At Zoli's, a Slice of Brooklyn, by the Slice
Jay Jerrier's newest pizza joint throws its dough rounds high, but they could still go higher.
, October 10, 2013
Who knew that when Jay Jarrier was zipping around Dallas with a trailer-mounted pizza oven in 2010, he was sowing the seeds of a mini-pizza... More >>
El Corazon's Got Your Chips and Salsa El Corazon's Got Your Chips and Salsa
The latest spin on the old Tejano restaurant in Oak Cliff changes things up, but not too much.
, October 03, 2013
It's not a stretch to compare our desire for chips and salsa to an addict's lust for his drug of choice. We know they do us no good, and yet we... More >>
The Muddled Path of Eddie Campbell, Dallas' Wandering Barkeep The Muddled Path of Eddie Campbell, Dallas' Wandering Barkeep
, September 26, 2013
It's a hot Friday night at Abacus, and Eddie "Lucky" Campbell is lovingly describing a gin cocktail, finished with lime and garnished with a... More >>
Haute Bar Food Is Getting Hot Haute Bar Food Is Getting Hot
But only when the chefs in charge deliver what their menus promise.
, September 19, 2013
Like all things culinary, burgers, sandwiches and chicken wings — the core building blocks of human nutrition — are subject to a high degree of... More >>
Enticed by Sushi Sake Enticed by Sushi Sake
Takashi Soda's sushi restaurant isn't perfect, but it's seduced a lot of fans.
, September 12, 2013
Compared to tacos, pasta and other imported foods, sushi is still a relatively new phenomenon in the States. It wasn't until the mid-1960s that... More >>
At Plano's Chennai, a Magical Trip Down the Indian-Food Rabbit Hole At Plano's Chennai, a Magical Trip Down the Indian-Food Rabbit Hole
, September 05, 2013
If you're not well versed, you could get lost in the ingredients required to make just one Indian curry. Scores of them can be featured in a... More >>
Mercat, a New Uptown Bistro, Has Charm but Also Some Work to Do Mercat, a New Uptown Bistro, Has Charm but Also Some Work to Do
, August 29, 2013
That French food is making a comeback should not be a mystery to anyone. Instead, we should wonder every time we see a buttery and flaky... More >>
Pakpao's Punch Pakpao's Punch
You like spicy, right? You'd better.
, August 22, 2013
The cuisine of Thailand is forceful and diverse. It's deeply rooted in the same hot and sweet, sour and salty combination that forms the basis of... More >>
FT33 is One of Dallas' Best, So Why Aren't There More Like It? FT33 is One of Dallas' Best, So Why Aren't There More Like It?
Unlike many restaurants entering their second year, Matt McCallister's Design District gem is gaining momentum.
, August 15, 2013
Maybe, just maybe, Dallas' long-bitched-about problem with flighty, temperamental diners is just an epicurean crutch. For years, chefs have... More >>
At HG Sply Co., Underwhelming Food for Overwhelming Crowds At HG Sply Co., Underwhelming Food for Overwhelming Crowds
Exhibit A that Lowest Greenville is starved for new restaurants.
, August 08, 2013
Lowest Greenville Avenue hasn't been an easy place to run a bar or restaurant. The strip's tainted past, punctuated by a violent July Fourth... More >>
Finding Salvation in Carrollton's Russian Banya Finding Salvation in Carrollton's Russian Banya
Whether it's you or the dumplings cooking, everything comes out perfect.
, August 01, 2013
Surely, I have sinned. There can be no other explanation for my current predicament. That I've found myself in a rundown suburban strip mall... More >>
Slow Bone's Bravado Slow Bone's Bravado
Jack Perkins made some bold claims when he first opened his barbecue restaurant. He's almost backed them up.
, July 25, 2013
It wasn't last year's announcement that Jack Perkins was about to open a barbecue restaurant that sent a little shock wave through the barbecue... More >>
Lonely Smyth Lonely Smyth
Visit Uptown's most popular cocktail cave alone and you'll stay that way.
, July 18, 2013
The door is not hard to find. Just off of Knox on Travis Street, between Sur La Table and what will someday hold a restaurant called The... More >>
It's A Menudo Kind Of Morning At Taqueria y Carniceria Guanajuato It's A Menudo Kind Of Morning At Taqueria y Carniceria Guanajuato
No matter how crazy you got last night, things will be better soon.
, July 11, 2013
So you want to open a taco stand? Then you should talk to Philippe Martinez, whose Taqueria y Carniceria Guanajuato supplies many restaurants in... More >>
Five Sixty's Dinner With a View Five Sixty's Dinner With a View
The scenery isn't worth the price of admission.
, July 04, 2013
Five Sixty is a cut above the rest, if solely in the literal sense. The restaurant spins like a slow-motion pulsar above the Dallas skyline,... More >>
Raising La Banqueta Raising La Banqueta
Alberto Neri is building a tiny taco empire one tortilla at a time.
, June 27, 2013
This was not what Alberto Neri had in mind when he pictured his new life in America. The Mexico City native would eventually make his name as the... More >>
Mot Hai Ba Turns Vietnamese-American Classics Upside Down Mot Hai Ba Turns Vietnamese-American Classics Upside Down
Wok free at Mot Hai Ba
, June 20, 2013
It was wildly unexpected when Colleen O'Hare and Jeana Johnson announced their latest restaurant. They'd already successfully tackled tacos more... More >>
Picking a Bone With Pecan Lodge Picking a Bone With Pecan Lodge
Want access to some of the best barbecue in Texas? Get in line.
, June 13, 2013
Barbecued brisket is a finicky son of a bitch. Cook it too fast and you'll be left with a dry, rubbery hunk of beef the size of your... More >>
Tom's Burgers and Grill's Excellent Spin on Chicken-Fried Steak. Plus, Free Beer. Tom's Burgers and Grill's Excellent Spin on Chicken-Fried Steak. Plus, Free Beer.
, June 06, 2013
From the outside, Tom's Burgers and Grill looks a lot like most Middle America diners — the ones built during a time when car doors shut with a... More >>
In One Arts Plaza, A Greek, Maybe, But Not The Greek In One Arts Plaza, A Greek, Maybe, But Not The Greek
With creativity everywhere around it, the Arts District greek spot falls flat.
, May 30, 2013
If there's one thing you could use to convince an out-of-towner that Dallas is a city worth visiting, the first-class city its leaders want so... More >>
LARK Brings Lunch to the Park LARK Brings Lunch to the Park
Shannon Wynne's latest on Klyde Warren Park gives Dallas some much-needed vegetables.
, May 23, 2013
Downtown Dallas was starved for natural beauty. Not that a five-acre deck park built atop a busy freeway is natural, really, but there are large... More >>
The Whimsy of Belly and Trumpet The Whimsy of Belly and Trumpet
Despite some misses, this mixed menu offers some of the best food in Uptown.
, May 16, 2013
Three rectangles of semifreddo in pistachio, mint and strawberry sat in a row like fat dominoes at Belly and Trumpet in Uptown. The chilled... More >>
Patent Pending at Craft and Growler Patent Pending at Craft and Growler
Two attorneys ditch a legal practice to embrace beer.
, May 09, 2013
The recipe for Craft and Growler's existence was simple. Husband and wife owners Kevin Afghani and Catherine Kinslow fell in love with the... More >>
Pop Diner is a Big Bust Pop Diner is a Big Bust
Closing time: You don't have to go home, but don't go here.
, May 02, 2013
It's 2:30 in the morning at some bar in Uptown, and as you drag a ballpoint pen across a credit card slip, feeling the grain of the bar beneath,... More >>
Urbano Café Travels the Globe Urbano Café Travels the Globe
Bolognese next to pork belly with pickled mustard greens? Somehow, it works.
, April 25, 2013
In a boisterous dining room on a Thursday night at Urbano Café, a sea of crystal marks a large table of diners working their way through a... More >>
Watch Your Wallet At Bowl & Barrel Watch Your Wallet At Bowl & Barrel
This isn't your greasy stepfather's game any more.
, April 11, 2013
There's something democratizing about the sport of bowling. Even though pros travel the world, earn sponsorships and win thousands of dollars,... More >>
Ascension's Fix: One Man's Obsession Gives Dallas a Whole New Addiction Ascension's Fix: One Man's Obsession Gives Dallas a Whole New Addiction
, April 04, 2013
Russell Hayward pours a measure of preheated water into a small, bulb-shaped boiling flask and carefully sets it over a halogen heating element.... More >>
20 Feet's Midas Touch 20 Feet's Midas Touch
A new East Dallas seafood joint uses beer batter like a fabled king.
, March 28, 2013
I was about halfway through a basket of fish and chips at 20 Feet, the new casual seafood joint in East Dallas, when I started looking for my... More >>
Joyce and Gigi's Warm Up East Dallas Joyce and Gigi's Warm Up East Dallas
A new restaurant charms with South American flavors
, March 21, 2013
Have you met Joyce and Gigi? Depending on your vantage point, they're either a South American mother and daughter chef duo, or a quaint yet... More >>
Desta Rises Above Sadness Desta Rises Above Sadness
Family members bind together to reopen Ethiopian Restaurant
, March 14, 2013
"Should I turn on the sign?" Yemi Lemma asks. Months of preparation have led up to the opening of Desta, an Ethiopian spot far up Greenville... More >>
Tiny La Pasadita Packs Big Flavors Tiny La Pasadita Packs Big Flavors
This humble East Dallas takeout spot's pupusas are something to brag about.
, March 07, 2013
Pupusería La Pasadita may be one of the smallest restaurants in Dallas. It's a stretch even to call the ramshackle takeout joint a restaurant.... More >>
Outpost in Oak Cliff is Great, But Not Great Enough to Draw Travelers Outpost in Oak Cliff is Great, But Not Great Enough to Draw Travelers
Reviewing the restaurant that replaced Campo.
, February 28, 2013
John Paul Valverde and his partner Miguel Vicéns have a knack for envisioning and executing compelling spaces. Their design business Coevál... More >>
Style By the Spoonful Style By the Spoonful
John Tesar's newest project is potentially a North Dallas pearl
, February 21, 2013
If you ask chef John Tesar why he named his restaurant after the tool, he'll tell you "a spoon is the only kitchen utensil you can't live... More >>
Los Torres Taqueria Has Got Your Goat Los Torres Taqueria Has Got Your Goat
And they've tucked it into a compelling taco.
, February 14, 2013
Los Torres Taquería opened last June, and like many small, family-owned Latino restaurants in Dallas, it began quietly turning out spicy, heady... More >>
Meso Maya Misses the Fiesta Meso Maya Misses the Fiesta
Downtown's new Mexican joint plays it safe and dull.
, February 07, 2013
Meso Maya has a very likable chef working its kitchen. If you sit at the bar at downtown's newest Mexican restaurant, which opened last December,... More >>
Lucia's Best Kept Secret Lucia's Best Kept Secret
Four stools offer unfettered access to Dallas' most exclusive restaurant.
, January 31, 2013
It was cold outside when I first dined at Lucia. The last few leaves clung to the trees and acorns crunched under my boots as I paced back and... More >>
The Sub-Standard Pour The Sub-Standard Pour
Great drinks do little to elevate shoddy cuisine.
, January 24, 2013
The Standard Pour opened last March, promising a cocktail den with food as slinky as its old-school cocktails in the heart of Uptown. Just less... More >>
Stampede 66's Bright Lights Stampede 66's Bright Lights
If you want to show an out-of-towner Dallas, Stephan Pyles' latest will give you a show.
, January 17, 2013
In a small, fenced parcel, presumably somewhere in Texas, two perfectly dressed cowboys wrestle a young calf to the ground. They use their knees... More >>
Ellen's Southern Kitchen Cooks With Soul Ellen's Southern Kitchen Cooks With Soul
The West End just got itself a great CFS.
, January 10, 2013
Ellen's Southern Kitchen and I got off to a great start. Sitting at the bar, I had a nice conversation with what seemed like half the restaurant... More >>
Try Cook Hall for a Pregame Fill-up Try Cook Hall for a Pregame Fill-up
There's not much reason to go there otherwise.
, January 03, 2013
It's hard to sit at the bar at Cook Hall and not feel at least a little disappointment. On its surface the new restaurant, which slipped into... More >>
Barbacoa Estilo Hidalgo Masters Real Slow Food Barbacoa Estilo Hidalgo Masters Real Slow Food
Raymundo Sanchez's roast lamb embraces authenticity without even trying.
, December 27, 2012
If you want to eat authentic Mexican food, certain aesthetic concessions may be required. The heart and soul of Mexican cooking is built on... More >>
Soleo Steps Up Soleo Steps Up
Owners Maria and Roberto Velasquez started with a taco cart. Now they're in Preston Hollow.
, December 20, 2012
Way out on Harry Hines Boulevard, just past the bazaar bearing the same name, Continental Liquor makes its business not only selling booze and... More >>
Qariah's Stand Qariah's Stand
Amidst other businesses fighting to serve alcohol on Greenville, this Lebanese restaurant ditches the booze.
, December 13, 2012
More than a year has passed since City Council's specific use permit policies went into effect on Lower Greenville Avenue, shuttering many bars... More >>
Hopdoddy Hype Hopdoddy Hype
What it takes to build the best six-dollar burger ever.
, December 06, 2012
You can put a lot of thought into making a burger if you want to. Chefs at top restaurants started a trend when they realized they could charge... More >>
At Sakhuu, You're Welcomed At Sakhuu, You're Welcomed
East Dallas' newest Thai restaurant is a neighborhood gem.
, November 29, 2012
If you're not a social person, if you'd rather quietly eat at a table alone and enjoy peaceful solitude while you dine out, you might have a hard... More >>
The New Korean Fusion The New Korean Fusion
Bulgogi meets tacos, and nachos, and hot dogs, and more.
, November 22, 2012
Terry Song can't seem to get a break in real estate. When he opened Goghee To Go on Inwood Road with wife Janice in 2010, he knew homeless people... More >>
Loving the Turntable at Tried and True Loving the Turntable at Tried and True
When the music matches the digs, NHS's latest is a great bar.
, November 15, 2012
My first visit to Tried and True left me in a pleasant, hazy glow. I sat at the bar of the roadhouse-themed restaurant and munched on peanuts in... More >>
Velvet Taco's Not-So-Taqueria Velvet Taco's Not-So-Taqueria
Taco purists don't love this Henderson Avenue restaurant, but that doesn't stop the hungry masses.
, November 08, 2012
At 2 a.m. on a recent Saturday, the intersection of Knox Street, Henderson Avenue and Central Expressway was a tangled mess of cars and tipsy... More >>
East Hampton Sandwich Co. is a Real Looker East Hampton Sandwich Co. is a Real Looker
Beauty between bread.
, November 01, 2012
It doesn't matter what you call them — sandwich, sammich, hoagie, hero, grinder, shawarma, gyro, or the newly truncated (and upsetting) sando —... More >>
New French Bistro Boulevardier Draws the Foodarazzi. For Now. New French Bistro Boulevardier Draws the Foodarazzi. For Now.
, October 25, 2012
Dallas needed a restaurant like Boulevardier. The casual Oak Cliff bistro named for a classic cocktail comprising bourbon, Campari and sweet... More >>
Monica's 2.0 Has a Few Bugs, but It Feels Like a Successful Release Monica's 2.0 Has a Few Bugs, but It Feels Like a Successful Release
, October 18, 2012
If you visit Monica's Nueva Cocina, chances are you'll meet the famous Monica Greene. The 57-year-old restaurateur works the room like a pro,... More >>
Start's Potential Start's Potential
Erin McKool's Take on Fast Food Feels Like the Begining of Something Big.
, October 11, 2012
A few of Erin McKool's friends thought the idea was a mistake. Drive-thrus were for McDonald's and Taco Cabana, not an eco-friendly health-food... More >>
Mughlai's Gem Mughlai's Gem
A North Dallas Indian restaurant captures the spirit of home.
, October 04, 2012
As you walk through the door of Mughlai, the year-old restaurant tucked in a strip on Alpha Road just north of the Galleria, you may not... More >>
Bigger and Brighter and Fried-er Bigger and Brighter and Fried-er
Grease is the good word at the State Fair of Texas.
, September 27, 2012
It's here! Fried Christmas!!! That delicious waft of funnel cake + corny dog + world's biggest Frito pie + horse-ish ladyman stank you'll get... More >>
Bowery's Bogus Dogs Bowery's Bogus Dogs
Sexy toppings can't hide an inferior hot dog.
, September 20, 2012
It was bound to happen. Dallas has been elevating the burger ever since The Mansion on Turtle Creek started topping beef patties with rare blue... More >>
Urban Rio's Next-Mex Urban Rio's Next-Mex
Finally, A Tex-Mex meal that doesn't require expandable pants.
, September 13, 2012
Ten years ago, downtown Plano was pretty slow as far as downtowns go. Jorg's Café Vienna, serving delicate schnitzels and imported beers, had... More >>
Good Jerk Good Jerk
With a Little Love from Mom, Island Spot's Spicy Chicken Sings.
, September 06, 2012
The scent of allspice-infused meat roasting over smoking coals of pimento wood is the sort of thing food writers attempt to turn into poetry, but... More >>
Jolly Old Ten Bells Tavern Pays Homage to England with a Handful of Chips and Buttered Bread Jolly Old Ten Bells Tavern Pays Homage to England with a Handful of Chips and Buttered Bread
, August 30, 2012
In no way did the Ten Bells Butty seem attractive to me. "It's basically a french-fry sandwich," the bartender said, when I admitted the menu... More >>
Nora's Mix And Match Nora's Mix And Match
A Familiar Tapestry of Dishes Seduce an East Dallas Crowd.
, August 23, 2012
Two small, round plates descend onto a linen-clad table protected with a white square of butcher paper. One holds aushuk, a sauteed leek dumpling... More >>
Rosemont: Tracy Miller's Latest Tries To Resurrect Breakfast Rosemont: Tracy Miller's Latest Tries To Resurrect Breakfast
Customers find nostalgia in a bowl of Cheerios.
, August 16, 2012
Shortly after you take your seat at Rosemont, Deep Ellum's newest breakfast, lunch and brunch spot by Local's chef and owner Tracy Miller, you're... More >>
Acme F&B Goes Whole Hog Acme F&B Goes Whole Hog
McKinney Avenue's newest restaurant is turning heads - and eating them.
, August 09, 2012
Chefs Colleen O'Hare and Jeana Johnson have built a solid reputation with Good 2 Go Taco, their upscale taquería in East Dallas where customers... More >>
Komali's Safe Bet Komali's Safe Bet
An almost authentic restaurant panders to the local palate.
, August 02, 2012
When Komali prepared to open in February 2011, chef and owner Abraham Salum described it as a contemporary Mexican restaurant. In an interview... More >>
SNACK's Roll of the Dice SNACK's Roll of the Dice
A new restaurant takes a shot in a turbulent Henderson Avenue location.
, July 26, 2012
Is 2323 Henderson Ave. cursed, or does the building sit on top of an ancient Indian burial ground? Nearly every mention of SNACK, the new outpost... More >>
Omi's Procession Omi's Procession
A Korean grill's banchan offers an endless display of flavor.
, July 19, 2012
In the kitchen of Omi Korean Grill and Bar, three old women start each workday at 7 a.m. They chop savoy cabbage into large bite-sized chunks and... More >>
Pera Turkish Kitchen's Suburban Sultans Pera Turkish Kitchen's Suburban Sultans
A restaurateur flees the high rents of Manhattan for Texas, and Far North Dallas is all the better for it.
, July 12, 2012
Pay no attention to the nondescript signage that might just as easily advertise appliance sales or spray tans. Pera Turkish Kitchen, its name... More >>
Dalat's Pho Goes Late Night Dalat's Pho Goes Late Night
A new Vietnamese restaurant enters the after-hours game.
, July 05, 2012
There are many options if you're hungry for a bowl of pho in Dallas. Out in the suburbs, countless restaurants offer cheap bowls of noodle-laden... More >>
Driftwood's Leeway Driftwood's Leeway
Complex plates and intense flavors wander from the star of the show: seafood.
, June 28, 2012
If you had grown accustomed to ordering pad Thai and spicy stir-fried shrimp at this stand-alone building on Davis Street in Oak Cliff, you won't... More >>
Oak's Lucid Plates Oak's Lucid Plates
With the right frame of mind, Jason Maddy can take you anywhere
, June 21, 2012
Close your eyes. Take yourself away to some place in a Southern state east of Texas. You can choose whichever you prefer, but I'm going with the... More >>
Carbone's: Jimmy's for the 1 Percent Carbone's: Jimmy's for the 1 Percent
Highland Park Gets Its Very Own Italian Restaurant and Specialty Shop.
, June 14, 2012
Dallas has plenty of Italian-American restaurants. The problem is very few of them are any good. While Lucia, Nonna and other regional Italian... More >>
Cafe Maya's Achiote Acoustics Cafe Maya's Achiote Acoustics
An Oak Cliff restaurant's roast pork gets lost in a quiet menu.
, June 07, 2012
It was a small, unassuming, black plastic dish I might have overlooked had it not come with an ominous warning. My waiter was very clear. Be... More >>
At Chicken Scratch and The Foundry, Scratch the Chicken and You'll Be Fine At Chicken Scratch and The Foundry, Scratch the Chicken and You'll Be Fine
Oak Cliff's latest delivers decent sides, misses on the chicken and still manages a home run.
, May 31, 2012
It's a beautiful afternoon to eat and drink outside, and I'm sitting at a picnic table hewn of haphazard and reclaimed lumber, sucking... More >>
Manuel's Creative Cuisine is a Worthy Find, If You Can Find It Manuel's Creative Cuisine is a Worthy Find, If You Can Find It
An Oak Lawn newcomer tries to recapture the Centrum Building's spotlight.
, May 17, 2012
It's a nice enough image. A sizable square of mahi mahi boasts perfect 90-degree hashes: the mark of a careful quarter turn on a searing hot... More >>
The Fieri Effect The Fieri Effect
Local restaurants try survive the crush of customers that follows a visit from Food Network's frosted-tip rainmaker.
, May 10, 2012
It was back in the fall that Citizen Pictures, a Colorado-based production company, contacted me in hopes of finding some restaurants to feature... More >>
Hattie's Helped Build Bishop Arts, and  10 Years Later People Are Still Coming Hattie's Helped Build Bishop Arts, and 10 Years Later People Are Still Coming
Dallas' most vibrant dining scene may owe it all to one restaurant.
, May 03, 2012
It's 7 on a Friday night, and there's something odd, eerie even, about the Bishop Arts District. There are these things called "pedestrians" here... More >>
At Jeff Harris' Bolsa, One Dish Reveals the Chef's Chops At Jeff Harris' Bolsa, One Dish Reveals the Chef's Chops
Want to measure a chef? Look to his chicken.
, April 26, 2012
"You can always judge the quality of a cook or restaurant by roast chicken," Julia Child once wrote. I'm not sure if she was the first to utter... More >>
Sissy's Serves Up Southern Charm the Texas Way: By the Bucket Sissy's Serves Up Southern Charm the Texas Way: By the Bucket
Get your bow ties ready: Garza's debut dresses (and tastes) the part.
, April 19, 2012
Simmered down to an elevator pitch, Sissy's Southern Kitchen and Bar might sound like a handful of other Dallas newcomers: Food Network... More >>
Company Cafe's Growing Pains Company Cafe's Growing Pains
A rapidly expanding restaurant learns good hands are hard to find.
, April 12, 2012
Fred Messick never intended to be a chef — at least not at first. He'd thought about cooking, sure, but culinary school seemed like a waste of... More >>
At the Chesterfield, Drinks So Good the Plates Barely Stand a Chance At the Chesterfield, Drinks So Good the Plates Barely Stand a Chance
Reviewing downtown Dallas' much-needed cocktail den.
, April 05, 2012
On a January weeknight, one of the unseasonably warm ones, The Chesterfield was absolutely packed. Not with patrons, necessarily; the space was... More >>
Union Bear Brings Farm-to-Table to the Bar Union Bear Brings Farm-to-Table to the Bar
It's locavorism for the rest of us. And lots and lots of beer.
, March 29, 2012
If you're perched at the outdoor section of the bar at Union Bear on a warm spring day, you may just catch some sunshine on the nape of your neck... More >>
Years Later, Sea Breeze is Still (Lobster) Rolling Years Later, Sea Breeze is Still (Lobster) Rolling
Coupling a fish counter with a restaurant is the best path to freshness.
, March 22, 2012
The first lobster roll I ever ate was purchased in a run-down seafood restaurant on Route 12, 60 miles outside of Boston, in a town called... More >>
303 Bar and Grill's Psycho Burger 303 Bar and Grill's Psycho Burger
Oak Cliff's newest burger house is still searching for its identity
, March 15, 2012
While the big restaurant money continues to flow north toward Highland Park, Preston Hollow and Uptown, Dallas' most interesting restaurant scene... More >>
Heavy Cooking Isn't the Only Way to Embrace Local Meat. Though It's a Pretty Tasty Way. Heavy Cooking Isn't the Only Way to Embrace Local Meat. Though It's a Pretty Tasty Way.
, March 08, 2012
For some time, Central 214 was known as the restaurant led by Blythe Beck, the chef with the big personality who made her dishes "naughty." Beck... More >>
At Vspot Vegan Cafe, Making Meatless Work for the Buckle of the Beef Belt At Vspot Vegan Cafe, Making Meatless Work for the Buckle of the Beef Belt
And no, it's not hard to find.
, March 01, 2012
Delia Pisarro is a meat eater. She's also a business woman. So when she opened Pure, her small Greenville Avenue Cafe in 2003, it wasn't for her... More >>
The Great Dallas Brisket Taco Hunt The Great Dallas Brisket Taco Hunt
Five brisket tacos at five places in five hours: It's more meat -- and more fun -- than it seems.
, February 23, 2012
I reached down to my right, pulled the small plastic lever, pushed back in my seat and moaned. We were puttering down U.S. 75 in a tinny Honda... More >>
Thank Goodness It's Del Frisco's Grille Thank Goodness It's Del Frisco's Grille
More easy bar food for the Uptown crowd.
, February 16, 2012
On a recent Friday, one of the cold ones, Del Frisco's Grille had a nice little buzz going. Out front, women in ultra-short skirts bounced in... More >>
Private Social Hears No Evil, and That's the Problem Private Social Hears No Evil, and That's the Problem
The loudest restaurant in Dallas can't hear (or see or taste) its mistakes.
, February 09, 2012
When Private Social opened last fall, the occasion was marked with a red-carpet affair. Literally, the rug was rouge, and it was rolled out for... More >>
At Tto Tto Wa Bistro, the Happy Marriage of Korean Fried Chicken and Beer At Tto Tto Wa Bistro, the Happy Marriage of Korean Fried Chicken and Beer
Perhaps even too much beer. But probably not.
, February 02, 2012
Billed as Carrollton's Koreatown, the Furneaux Creek Village Shopping Center is packed with Korean restaurants, a karaoke lounge and a pool hall... More >>
From Mi Cocina to Mr. Mesero: Mico Rodriguez's Comeback From Mi Cocina to Mr. Mesero: Mico Rodriguez's Comeback
The founder of Mi Cocina is back, and his new place feels like home.
, January 26, 2012
"It's like trying a drug for the first time," my tablemate said, as she watched me take a careful bite from a grilled serrano pepper. The plate... More >>
Campo is One of Dallas' Best Restaurants -- For Now Campo is One of Dallas' Best Restaurants -- For Now
Oak Cliff has one of the city's most daring restaurants. But will the chef stay put?
, January 19, 2012
It was Saturday night, and Campo Modern Country Bistro, the latest house-turned-restaurant in Oak Cliff, was loud and crowded. A jeans-clad... More >>
Texas Spice, the Hotel Restaurant That Shouldn't Be But Is Texas Spice, the Hotel Restaurant That Shouldn't Be But Is
What good is local if local isn't good?
, January 12, 2012
I'm staring at a perfectly seared and large piece of red fish, with crisp skin and flaky white flesh, trying to figure out what went wrong with... More >>
Stackhouse: Right at Home in East Dallas Stackhouse: Right at Home in East Dallas
Yes, there's another Dallas burger joint worth a visit. Apologize in advance to your arteries.
, January 05, 2012
Stackhouse sits on a knoll above the concrete expanse that is the intersection of Gaston Avenue, Malcolm X Boulevard and Fair Park Link, in East... More >>
At Zio Cecio, Priced Out Until the Pasta At Zio Cecio, Priced Out Until the Pasta
High-priced dishes obscure the cooking at Zio Cecio -- until the pasta comes.
, December 29, 2011
Francesco Farris needed a break. After 18 years working at his brother Efisio's side, he was ready to strike out on his own. "I think I grew... More >>
Marquee Grill's Seasonal Affective Disorder Marquee Grill's Seasonal Affective Disorder
Tomatoes in winter dull the spotlight in Highland Park.
, December 22, 2011
On a brisk December evening, Highland Park Village is awash in light. Tiny white bulbs blanket every branch and every twig of every tree along... More >>
Meso Maya's Hands of God Meso Maya's Hands of God
Behold, the truly hand-made tortilla.
, December 15, 2011
Every morning around 9, a large pot of water containing dried white corn and lime comes to a boil inside the kitchen of Meso Maya — the first... More >>
Goodfriend is a Good Find Goodfriend is a Good Find
A Beer Garden and Burger House offers East Dallas the kind of bar you'll want to make your own.
, December 08, 2011
The saying goes that friends are the family you get to choose. There's truth in the words, however cliché, but we don't have as much control... More >>
Bistro 31 Sets Highland Park Buzzing Bistro 31 Sets Highland Park Buzzing
Simple Mediterranean-inspired plates designed for Park Cities palates.
, December 01, 2011
Eric Brandt, executive chef of Highland Park's Bistro 31, never attended culinary school. Instead, the self-taught chef ditched his computer... More >>
At Deep Ellum's Local, the Food Outshines the Trend At Deep Ellum's Local, the Food Outshines the Trend
A buzzword loses its luster (and everybody wins).
, November 24, 2011
Local, the sleek little restaurant in Deep Ellum, opened late in the winter of 2003. It was met with tempered praise from this newspaper, which... More >>
Choose Wisely and Drink Freely at SWIG Choose Wisely and Drink Freely at SWIG
Come for the booze, stay for the booze at Henderson Avenue's latest.
, November 17, 2011
The sun just set on SWIG, the new bar and grill at the heart of Henderson Avenue, and a pair of valets are already hard at work, cramming cars in... More >>
Princi Italia's Tuscan Trip Up Princi Italia's Tuscan Trip Up
Princi Italia tries to please everyone and ends up pleasing -- everyone but us, it seems.
, November 10, 2011
Chewing on a tender veal cutlet coated in a thick and soggy layer of flour and blanketed in a lemony but bland sauce studded with artichokes and... More >>
What Good is Rohst Without Fire? What Good is Rohst Without Fire?
If Greenville Avenue's latest wants to conjure Korea, it needs to turn up the heat.
, November 03, 2011
"This bowl is really hot," the food-runner said, with a conviction I'd never seen attached to the warning. I was sitting at the bar at Rohst,... More >>
Dough Pizzeria Napoletana: VPNot Dough Pizzeria Napoletana: VPNot
Preston Hollow's newest Pizzeria makes decent pizza, but it's not as authentic as the menu claims
, October 27, 2011
Ten years ago I hopped a plane and flew to Rome, took a train north to Florence and then back south to Orvietto, a small town in southwestern... More >>
Conquering Marrakesh with the Baboush's Condiment Kings Conquering Marrakesh with the Baboush's Condiment Kings
From the guys who brought you Medina, a new menu and a new neighborhood show a different side of Morocco.
, October 20, 2011
In late 2007, when Yaser Khalaf and Sam Benoikken opened Medina, a small Moroccan restaurant with a loungey, modern feel in Victory Park, they... More >>
At My Lan and Hiep Thai Market, Suburban Strip-Mall Magic At My Lan and Hiep Thai Market, Suburban Strip-Mall Magic
Go for the jackfruit, stay for the pho. Oh, and bring your own beer.
, October 13, 2011
Convincing devoted urbanites to venture to Garland can be a hard sell, no matter how hungry they are. The endless concrete pavement and strip... More >>
RedFork's SoulSearch RedFork's SoulSearch
The dissonance that caused its early missteps lives on in a dining room that can't find its identity.
, October 06, 2011
Back in July, there were a tense and strange couple days in the kitchen at RedFork, the then-brand-new gastropub in Knox-Henderson. An alleged... More >>
At Tillman's Roadhouse, Big Crowds and Bigger Portions At Tillman's Roadhouse, Big Crowds and Bigger Portions
After changes and a tragedy, an old Oak Cliff favorite presses on.
, September 29, 2011
Chandeliers run down the dining room hall, casting a warm light on walls lined with barn boards floor to ceiling, wooden deer trophies and... More >>
At Wild Salsa, It Takes Tequila to Tango At Wild Salsa, It Takes Tequila to Tango
Aggressive art isn't enough to debauch downtown's tame new Mexican restaurant. But the tequila selection might be.
, September 22, 2011
Wild Salsa isn't your standard Mexican-American restaurant. It's not buried in a suburban strip mall but perched smack in the middle of downtown,... More >>
At Amruth and the Taj Chaat House, a Lesson in Learning From Ingredients At Amruth and the Taj Chaat House, a Lesson in Learning From Ingredients
Lesson No. 1: Show up hungry.
, September 15, 2011
Surrounded by mango-colored, sparsely decorated walls, I pondered the small bowl of grayish-brown paste, flecked with tiny specks of bright... More >>
Solo or Sweaty, The Katy Trail Ice House is Welcoming (and Worth the Calories) Solo or Sweaty, The Katy Trail Ice House is Welcoming (and Worth the Calories)
Just don't get lazy when you're ordering beer and expect Milk to let you get away with it.
, September 08, 2011
Sitting on a pine-hewn picnic bench with a cold beer in hand isn't a bad place to be in these last days of summer. It's even nicer when you're... More >>
The Grape is Stuck in the Past, Right Where it Belongs The Grape is Stuck in the Past, Right Where it Belongs
Compared to modern bistros, The Grape's menu and dining room seem dated. That's why it works so well.
, September 01, 2011
Lower Greenville Avenue has seen a lot of change lately, and it's going to see a lot more. An Asian behemoth, Rohst, and a revamped Terilli's... More >>
The Slow, Weak Pulse of the Heart Attack Grill The Slow, Weak Pulse of the Heart Attack Grill
Sexy service and a media blitz won't make up for a terrible burger
, August 25, 2011
The sign outside the Heart Attack Grill beckons, but not like most. "Over 350 Lbs? Eat for Free" the red neon glows, calling out to Dallas'... More >>
Searching For Consistency at Craft Dallas Searching For Consistency at Craft Dallas
At the W, Tom Colicchio's kitchen has undergone four chef changes since it opened in 2006.
, August 18, 2011
The word "craft" denotes a skill or trade. It can also refer to the quality of workmanship of the product that trade produces. All in all, it... More >>
Big Plans From the Tiny Kitchen at Jonathon's Oak Cliff Big Plans From the Tiny Kitchen at Jonathon's Oak Cliff
A young chef ditched a local institution to find his own way. It may just be your new got-to.
, August 11, 2011
For the new-around-here, asking a local for dining ideas undoubtedly yields one of only a few recommendations. You must try the tacos at Fuel... More >>
At Ibex Ethiopian, the Dishes (and the Vibe) Are Communal At Ibex Ethiopian, the Dishes (and the Vibe) Are Communal
And the menus, thankfully, have numbers.
, August 04, 2011
If you're an Ethiopian-food novice, you might find yourself drawn to one of the shiny new restaurants serving it around Dallas. They're sleek,... More >>
Mesa: Bringing Veracruz to Oak Cliff Mesa: Bringing Veracruz to Oak Cliff
Mesa's rustic version of Mexico doesn't bring the heat, but it stays true to its roots.
, July 28, 2011
Veracruz, a thin and wrinkly shaped state on the Gulf, wasn't the most loved state in Mexico. The Spanish used the region as a gateway to the New... More >>
There's Oddness at Oddfellows, But It's the Execution That Makes It Shine There's Oddness at Oddfellows, But It's the Execution That Makes It Shine
The culinary diversions at this Bishop Arts restaurant are interesting -- as is the crowd -- but it's simplicity that makes it stand out.
, July 21, 2011
Walking into Oddfellows, on the Bishop Arts District restaurant row that also includes Hattie's and Tillman's Roadhouse, the place all but purrs... More >>
In-N-Out Vs. Whataburger: A Petty Patty Smackdown In-N-Out Vs. Whataburger: A Petty Patty Smackdown
In the beef between Whataburger and In-N-Out fans, you win by not playing.
, July 14, 2011
California import In-N-Out Burger arrived in Frisco, and people lost their minds. They waited in line for hours. They cried tears of joy. And... More >>
Ketchup, Uptown's New Burger Bar, Follows the Trends to Feed the Trendy Ketchup, Uptown's New Burger Bar, Follows the Trends to Feed the Trendy
, July 07, 2011
Ketchup, the neighborhood burger bar in cuisine-crowded Uptown, welcomes diners with a patio stocked with wicker chairs and tables tucked under... More >>
Marquee Grill & Bar: Tre Wilcox's Starring Role Marquee Grill & Bar: Tre Wilcox's Starring Role
Former Top Chef contender aims to please both Bubbas and foodies.
, June 30, 2011
I see blond people. I am sitting in a leathery banquette at the new Marquee Grill & Bar in Highland Park Village, flanked on one side by what... More >>
The Commissary & The Table: No Standing O' The Commissary & The Table: No Standing O'
Chef John Tesar's new Arts District eatery misses its marks.
, June 23, 2011
Cute, isn't it, how chefs-turned-restaurateurs name their joints now? They slap plain and unpretentious words on the marquee to fool you into... More >>
Company Cafe: Healthy Food Can Be Good. Who Knew? Company Cafe: Healthy Food Can Be Good. Who Knew?
Try some local, organic, gluten-free food without a 'tude.
, June 16, 2011
When David Thompson, one half of the TacOCliff blog (tacocliff.wordpress.com) and I chomped down on the grass-fed ground beef tacos that newly... More >>
The Office Grill: Perfect Escape from Cubicle Hell The Office Grill: Perfect Escape from Cubicle Hell
Staying late at this office is no problem.
, June 09, 2011
It's the rare restaurant that announces its intention to satisfy every possible segment of its customer base with its sign. But for The Office... More >>
Dragonfly: It's a Beautiful Meal Dragonfly: It's a Beautiful Meal
Life is a cabaret at Hotel ZaZa's joint.
, June 02, 2011
"In here, life is beautiful. The girls are beautiful. Even the orchestra is beautiful!" The line from Cabaret pops into my head as we drive up... More >>
Asador: Promising Bistro Hidden Away Asador: Promising Bistro Hidden Away
Can a restaurant in a hotel lobby make its mark?
, May 26, 2011
What a difference a hostess, a knowledgeable waiter and a month can make. I first visited Asador almost two months after it had opened, and I... More >>
Vijay Sadhu's Newest Venture Takes The Fear Out Of The Exotic Vijay Sadhu's Newest Venture Takes The Fear Out Of The Exotic
, May 19, 2011
Indian food can be a challenge to the unadventurous diner. Too spicy. Too gloppy. Too exotic with its bevy of sauces and fantastical sounding... More >>
Clear Fork Station: A Cowboy Oasis Clear Fork Station: A Cowboy Oasis
Worth a stop if you're in the neighborhood.
, May 12, 2011
Not too far west on Interstate 20, past the last of Fort Worth's low-slung homes and on the road to Weatherford, farm country suddenly replaces... More >>
Il Cane Rosso Settles Down Il Cane Rosso Settles Down
Dallas' favorite roaming pizzeria hits and misses in new home.
, May 05, 2011
What's left to say about Il Cane Rosso that hasn't already been said? The name and product were Dallas institutions long before the new Deep... More >>
Cedars Social: Eat Light and Drink Heavy Cedars Social: Eat Light and Drink Heavy
Chef John Tesar's menu takes second place to the cocktails.
, April 28, 2011
After a few cocktails like the Tranny Love, any tongue that tries to say the name Cedars Social will twist. But that's acceptable. Spraying like... More >>
Alma: Great Mexican Food, but Give Us Tea for Texas. Alma: Great Mexican Food, but Give Us Tea for Texas.
, April 21, 2011
"This is the society we're living in," rants angry-guy podcaster/comedian Adam Carolla. "You can order iced tea and get something that tastes... More >>
Komali Aims to Elevate Authentic Mexican Food. It Misses. Komali Aims to Elevate Authentic Mexican Food. It Misses.
, April 14, 2011
Most Americans see Mexican cuisine through queso-colored glasses, content to crack open a box of store-bought hard-shell tortillas, stuff them... More >>
Lockhart Smokehouse Gets the Important Thing Right- Brisket. Lockhart Smokehouse Gets the Important Thing Right- Brisket.
, April 07, 2011
The cashier at Lockhart Smokehouse nodded as he rang up my order for the day's special, a smoked trapezoid of ivory-hued fish graced with three... More >>
Park: If Only the Menu Matched the Laid-Back Patio Vibe. Park: If Only the Menu Matched the Laid-Back Patio Vibe.
, March 31, 2011
On the ingredient lists that now pass for menus, it can be hard to discern exactly how a dish is assembled: Squid, rutabagas and chocolate sauce... More >>
Best Enchiladas Ever: Tons of Choices- Most of Them Good- at Monica Greene's Latest. Best Enchiladas Ever: Tons of Choices- Most of Them Good- at Monica Greene's Latest.
, March 24, 2011
Much to my chagrin as a kid, the only things I was ever capable of doing quickly were reading and writing. Neither skill was especially valuable... More >>
Brackets: Dining Here is Up the Creek If You're Without a Paddle. Brackets: Dining Here is Up the Creek If You're Without a Paddle.
, March 17, 2011
When a sitcom actor surrenders to the lure of a movie contract or retirement or heavy drug use, the show's producers have two choices: They can... More >>
Shinsei: Turning Diners into Disciples Shinsei: Turning Diners into Disciples
, March 10, 2011
As someone who spends a good bit of time in restaurant dining rooms, I'm accustomed to being told "Just let me know if you have any questions... More >>
Decanter Means Well, We Just Wish It Did Better Decanter Means Well, We Just Wish It Did Better
, March 03, 2011
The way the kitchen had envisioned it, a roundup of chocolate that followed a recent multi-course meal at Decanter was supposed to double as a... More >>
La Fiorentina: Generic Doesn't Always Equal Cheap. La Fiorentina: Generic Doesn't Always Equal Cheap.
, February 24, 2011
Foremost among the many charms of Lucia, the homey Italian bistro that's riveted local food lovers since it opened in Oak Cliff late last year,... More >>
College students, in meat lockers across America, compete to see who's the best judge of slabs of beef, pork and lamb. College students, in meat lockers across America, compete to see who's the best judge of slabs of beef, pork and lamb.
, February 17, 2011
'Well, here's the deal," Davey Griffin, associate professor of animal science at Texas A&M University, told me when he learned I planned to show... More >>
With a Name Like Whiskey Cake, It's No Surprise We Like It. With a Name Like Whiskey Cake, It's No Surprise We Like It.
, February 10, 2011
Whiskey Cake, the impressively thought-out pub by the Tollway in Plano, was designed for drinkers who don't laugh when their bartenders spritz... More >>
Cowboys Aren't on the Field This Super Bowl, but Maybe Fans Can Find One at Dinner. Cowboys Aren't on the Field This Super Bowl, but Maybe Fans Can Find One at Dinner.
, February 03, 2011
A few milestones loom large in the sports world, so rare is the chance of their reoccurring. High on that list is the successful athlete-owned... More >>
Brownstone: Those Wintertime Blues are Lifted by Brussels Sprouts. Brownstone: Those Wintertime Blues are Lifted by Brussels Sprouts.
, January 27, 2011
It's probably unfair to show up in winter at a restaurant that touts its fresh, seasonal cuisine. Diners who rushed to eat at Brownstone when it... More >>
Crossroads Diner: Tell Willie Brown to Come Running for Lunch Crossroads Diner: Tell Willie Brown to Come Running for Lunch
, January 20, 2011
Crossroads Diner is located just off the corner of Walnut Hill Road and Central Expressway, which, in the world's compendium of crossroads, is a... More >>
Saint Ann: Pretty People in a Pretty Room Eating Pretty Awful Food Saint Ann: Pretty People in a Pretty Room Eating Pretty Awful Food
, January 13, 2011
How you feel about Saint Ann may depend upon how you feel about Jägermeister ice cream drizzled with a Red Bull reduction. As that sugary... More >>
Kenny's Italian Kitchen: Big Prices, Big Portions, Big Bore Kenny's Italian Kitchen: Big Prices, Big Portions, Big Bore
, January 06, 2011
Tucked into a strip mall that would challenge the most talented maze-running rats, Kenny's Italian Kitchen isn't easy to find by way of address.... More >>
Was the Glass Half Full or Half Empty for Dallas Diners in 2010? Was the Glass Half Full or Half Empty for Dallas Diners in 2010?
, December 30, 2010
With a few days still remaining in December, it's probably too soon to accurately assess how 2010 will be recalled in the annals of Dallas food.... More >>
One2One: You Can't Please Everyone. One2One: You Can't Please Everyone.
, December 23, 2010
Our server knew something was wrong at five paces. "A little too much whipped cream?" he asked with an ambiguous smirk that either indicated he... More >>
Home On La Grange: Where Service and Drinks Almost Make Up for the Food. Home On La Grange: Where Service and Drinks Almost Make Up for the Food.
, December 16, 2010
Say you play the oboe. Say you're a regular oboe master and have designs on tooting your oboe in an orchestra. Your tryout will probably involve... More >>
Seasons 52: Chain Food Minus Butter and Salt. What's the Point? Seasons 52: Chain Food Minus Butter and Salt. What's the Point?
, December 09, 2010
I once had a job at a bridal boutique that sidelined in dresses for prom. What I learned from the girls who came to our store in search of... More >>
Sharaku Sake Lounge and Izakaya: An Inspired Way to End a Workday. Sharaku Sake Lounge and Izakaya: An Inspired Way to End a Workday.
, December 02, 2010
I hadn't had a very good Monday. My computer was threatening to lock me out of my e-mail, nobody was returning my calls and my dinner date... More >>
Bambu: This Friendly, Authentic Thai Spot Gets a Kiss on the Cheek. Bambu: This Friendly, Authentic Thai Spot Gets a Kiss on the Cheek.
, November 25, 2010
I wouldn't dare claim food writers have it worse than podiatrists and divorce attorneys, who can count on strangers to show them their bunions... More >>
Nosh: Avner Samuel's Latest Is Fine, Affordable and a Touch Too Friendly. Nosh: Avner Samuel's Latest Is Fine, Affordable and a Touch Too Friendly.
, November 18, 2010
When Avner Samuel, a revered titan of the Dallas dining scene, this summer dismantled Aurora—where the famed Grand Tasting menu cost about what a... More >>
Texas Oyster Season is Here. Time to be Greedy. Texas Oyster Season is Here. Time to be Greedy.
, November 11, 2010
Texas oyster season is under way, and you might as well be greedy. The oysters emerging from the Gulf this year are plump and sweet, and they'll... More >>
Neighborhood Services Bar & Grill: Third Time is a Charm for Nick Badovinus. Neighborhood Services Bar & Grill: Third Time is a Charm for Nick Badovinus.
, November 04, 2010
Of all the different kinds of restaurants, the neighborhood joint may be the hardest to successfully pull off. Say you want to open a fondue... More >>
Rock n Taco: Hitting a Power Chord at Lunch Rock n Taco: Hitting a Power Chord at Lunch
, October 28, 2010
Here's the thing about rockers (or, at least, the sort of rockers who are drawn to restaurants with cowhide upholstery and pink damask... More >>
The Green Room May Be The Place To  See and Be Seen, But a Place To Eat? Not So Much. The Green Room May Be The Place To See and Be Seen, But a Place To Eat? Not So Much.
, October 21, 2010
Rock stars—real rock stars, not the earnest unsigned musicians who always remember to fold up their friends' sofa beds and invite their parents... More >>
Go Fish Ocean Club: Time to Let Chef Tiffany Derry's Star Shine. Go Fish Ocean Club: Time to Let Chef Tiffany Derry's Star Shine.
, October 14, 2010
Having dined at Go Fish Ocean Club only on weeknights, I can't imagine the clamor that must quake the far north Dallas restaurant on weekends.... More >>
Garden Café Should Reap More of What it Sows. Garden Café Should Reap More of What it Sows.
, October 07, 2010
When I finally reached the front of the breakfast line on an exceptionally busy Sunday morning at Garden Café—having had ample time to settle on... More >>
Wyland's Ocean Blue: Artist Should Stick With Palettes, not Palates Wyland's Ocean Blue: Artist Should Stick With Palettes, not Palates
, September 30, 2010
Wyland's Ocean Blue isn't any one thing. It's a restaurant. It's an art gallery. And it's a darn good parlor game. The conceit behind the... More >>
Platia Greek Kouzina: Fine Greek Food and Infectious Spirit Might Carry You Away Platia Greek Kouzina: Fine Greek Food and Infectious Spirit Might Carry You Away
, September 23, 2010
My father is American, Chicago-born. I mention this only because I feel compelled to set the record straight, since he claimed otherwise when he... More >>
Eddie V's: Like Taking a Cruise, Minus the Good Food and Service. Eddie V's: Like Taking a Cruise, Minus the Good Food and Service.
, September 16, 2010
What's fancy? As the brand new sequel to The Official Preppy Handbook reminds us, fancy isn't surface glitz and remarked-upon glamour; real... More >>
Dinghy Bar & Grill: Where Would-Be Parrotheads Flock. Dinghy Bar & Grill: Where Would-Be Parrotheads Flock.
, September 09, 2010
With an abbreviated schedule tailored to the weekend sailing crowd, Dinghy Bar & Grill doesn't have much trouble maintaining the lively... More >>
Nova: Pop a Wheelie Over This Bike-Friendly Oak Cliff Eatery. Nova: Pop a Wheelie Over This Bike-Friendly Oak Cliff Eatery.
Almost-Super Nova
, September 02, 2010
As someone who gets everywhere on two wheels, I was intrigued when Nova, the latest addition to Oak Cliff's vibrant restaurant line-up,... More >>
Potager Café: Communal Dining, Slow Food and Small Portions. Potager Café: Communal Dining, Slow Food and Small Portions.
Diners of the World Unite
, August 26, 2010
"This is so good," a wispy woman with a sloppy silver-white bun murmured to her dining partner at Potager Café. "I know," the younger man... More >>
Square Burger: Big D Knows Great Burgers. Now, So Does McKinney. Square Burger: Big D Knows Great Burgers. Now, So Does McKinney.
, August 19, 2010
A few of my food-fixated friends who've called to ask after my recent move to Texas have bothered to ask if I've found a place to live. One or... More >>
Gold Class Cinemas Takes Dinner-and-Movie to New Heights. Gold Class Cinemas Takes Dinner-and-Movie to New Heights.
, August 12, 2010
Back when dinner meant a tough cut of meat and a plain starchy vegetable, nobody expected their entrées to entertain them. For amusement,... More >>
Horne & Dekker Strives for Cutesy. Should Work on Cooking Instead. Horne & Dekker Strives for Cutesy. Should Work on Cooking Instead.
, August 05, 2010
In standard restaurant service, the amuse bouche arrives after meal decisions have been made and a server's whisked away the menus. Perhaps... More >>
The Common Table: Good Beer, Uncommonly Poor Food. The Common Table: Good Beer, Uncommonly Poor Food.
, July 29, 2010
As bartenders working in the exhausted vodka idiom have discovered, it's hard to mix together a few flavored liquors and fruit juices and not end... More >>
The Pyramid Restaurant & Bar: Chef Andre Natera Excels at Simplicity. The Pyramid Restaurant & Bar: Chef Andre Natera Excels at Simplicity.
, July 22, 2010
From chef Andre Natera's fictional archives: Wherever Elementary School Second semester report card, 1966 It's a joy to have young Andre in... More >>
Los Cabos: Okie-Mex is About What You'd Expect. Los Cabos: Okie-Mex is About What You'd Expect.
, July 15, 2010
By far the easiest part of my job is rounding up dining companions. No matter how forcefully I emphasize the rigors of a review dinner—there's no... More >>
Perry's Steakhouse and Grille: Imports a Dining Tradition from Houston to Dallas. Perry's Steakhouse and Grille: Imports a Dining Tradition from Houston to Dallas.
, July 08, 2010
When I first arrived in Dallas, I lobbed the same culinary questions at anyone who'd admit to having eaten out: Which local farm gets all the... More >>
Meddlesome Moth: Great Beer, but the Food Doesn't Make Our Heart Flutter. Meddlesome Moth: Great Beer, but the Food Doesn't Make Our Heart Flutter.
, July 01, 2010
The impeccable design decisions at Meddlesome Moth, the crisp new Oak Lawn beer lounge from Flying Saucer co-founder Shannon Wynne, extend to the... More >>
Ristorante Nicola: Great Place to Party, Not-So-Great Place to Dine. Ristorante Nicola: Great Place to Party, Not-So-Great Place to Dine.
, June 24, 2010
When our server at Ristorante Nicola finally ambled over to our table, scraping and shuffling just a bit to illustrate the depth of his deference... More >>
Avila's and Mextopia: Good Tex-Mex Must be in the DNA Avila's and Mextopia: Good Tex-Mex Must be in the DNA
, June 17, 2010
Shakespearean plays and American high schools wouldn't be the same without the requisite set of identical twins. At my alma mater, we shared the... More >>
Preston's: Comforting, Casual Food in an Uncomfortable Setting. Preston's: Comforting, Casual Food in an Uncomfortable Setting.
, June 10, 2010
The fact that Park Cities Prime, a pricy steakhouse with all the trimmings, couldn't survive in the belly of the capitalist beast of the Park... More >>
Cedars Mediterranean Mezza: Lots of Choices, but Mostly Mediocre Cedars Mediterranean Mezza: Lots of Choices, but Mostly Mediocre
, June 03, 2010
Cedars Mediterranean Mezza. It sounded so romantic. I could imagine it immediately. A cozy, crowded room filled with loud voices and even louder... More >>
Hector's On Henderson: "Date Night" Restaurant Fails to Arouse Hector's On Henderson: "Date Night" Restaurant Fails to Arouse
, May 27, 2010
In the annals of branding it doesn't exactly sing out, but this is the line that Hector's on Henderson flaunts. "It's a great place for date... More >>
Genroku Sushi Makes Our Taste Buds Very Happy Genroku Sushi Makes Our Taste Buds Very Happy
, May 20, 2010
Eschewing sushi-dining etiquette (yes, it exists), my dining companions ordered a bonanza of nigiri and fancy rolls at the outset. I hung my head... More >>
Neighborhood Services Tavern brings good taste to social networking Neighborhood Services Tavern brings good taste to social networking
, May 13, 2010
A loosened tie. Rolled-up shirtsleeves. Ditching heels for flats. Friendly banter during the ballgame or an "I'll get the next one." Any beer... More >>
Hibiscus May Have Changed Chefs, But Our Opinion About Its Food Remains The Same Hibiscus May Have Changed Chefs, But Our Opinion About Its Food Remains The Same
, May 06, 2010
The first taste of the baked Dungeness crab dip provoked a moment of quiescence. The silence, short-lived, was followed by ravenous arm wrestling... More >>
Screen Door: If Mama Cooked This Good, We'd A-Stayed Home Screen Door: If Mama Cooked This Good, We'd A-Stayed Home
, April 29, 2010
Before you take the first bite of Screen Door's tasso ham soup, pause a moment to listen. This soup talks to you. It's a lady with a sweet... More >>
Arcodoro & Pomodoro Goes Fancy, but the Fundamental Remain Solid Arcodoro & Pomodoro Goes Fancy, but the Fundamental Remain Solid
, April 22, 2010
Even the parsley at Arcodoro & Pomodoro is reason for excitement. Rather than garnish a dish with a sprig or a scattering of minced leaves, the... More >>
Dallas Chop House Breathes Beefy Life into Downtown's East Side Dallas Chop House Breathes Beefy Life into Downtown's East Side
, April 15, 2010
Since the age of the Cro-Magnon, Dallas has had the hell whomped out of it by all manner of steakhouses serving all manner of wet-aged, prime,... More >>
Urbano Cafe: A Delightful Treat in a Plain Brown Wrapper Urbano Cafe: A Delightful Treat in a Plain Brown Wrapper
, April 08, 2010
While waiting outside for our table at Urbano Café, we noticed a gentleman, probably in his 60s, stumble out of the restaurant and turn a... More >>
Ocean Prime -- So Fancy, They Should Put Goldfish on the Menu Ocean Prime -- So Fancy, They Should Put Goldfish on the Menu
, April 01, 2010
On a day when you're feeling all up in your fine self, when your wrinkle-fillers have smoothed out the frown lines and your good car is out of... More >>
Naga Thai Battles the Victory Curse With Some Tasty, Spicy Fare Naga Thai Battles the Victory Curse With Some Tasty, Spicy Fare
, March 25, 2010
N9NE tried it. Now they're no more. Nove Italiano tried it. Now they're no more. Now Naga Thai is trying it, opening a restaurant in the... More >>
Artin's Grill Brings a Touch of the Sublime to Plano Dining Artin's Grill Brings a Touch of the Sublime to Plano Dining
, March 18, 2010
Artin's Grill is a gush of earnest, approachable sophistication wreathed in a blast of hickory smoke. At Artin's, no detail is overlooked: faux... More >>
Tramontana: A Restaurant Made for Grandma Tramontana: A Restaurant Made for Grandma
, March 11, 2010
This ain't your mother's bistro. No, it's your grandmother's. And if you visit Tramontana of an evening, though not too long past the witching... More >>
Bailey's Prime Plus Park Lane: A steakhouse good for the ole boys as well as the girls. Bailey's Prime Plus Park Lane: A steakhouse good for the ole boys as well as the girls.
, March 04, 2010
"Wow. Looks kind of like a casino," I said to my BFF (best food friend) as we approached the entrance. "Or a strip club." An upscale one at that.... More >>
At Plano's Fish Shack, It's Not About The Location, The Presentation Or Even The Service--It's All About The Fish At Plano's Fish Shack, It's Not About The Location, The Presentation Or Even The Service--It's All About The Fish
, February 25, 2010
At Fish Shack, location is not everything. Nor is presentation. Nor, come to think of it, is appearance, plate-arrival timing, or even the name... More >>
Club Sushi Club Sushi
, February 18, 2010
Late one Friday we were seated for dinner in the central dining area of what seemed like a relatively quiet spot, Otaru Nippon Collection... More >>
DISH Suffers From a Lack of Focus on Getting the Food Right DISH Suffers From a Lack of Focus on Getting the Food Right
, February 11, 2010
The egg must not be cold. Here we are in Oak Lawn's dishiest new restaurant, DISH (the insistent capital letters an attempt to elevate the... More >>
The Search for an English Pub in North Texas is Over. We've Found the Holy Grail. The Search for an English Pub in North Texas is Over. We've Found the Holy Grail.
, February 04, 2010
Just what makes a pub a "pub"? If we're speaking of an English place, it should serve fish and chips. Most of them list a number of beers and... More >>
India West Is Really Just An Upscale DNA Copy of Its Sister Restaurant, Kebab N Kurry. India West Is Really Just An Upscale DNA Copy of Its Sister Restaurant, Kebab N Kurry.
, January 28, 2010
There are two possible reasons why India West's dining room was so sparsely populated the evening of my final visit. One involves the presence... More >>
The Mansion's New Chef Bruno Davaillon Is  Breaking Into The Job Slowly, But It Seems Just A Matter Of Time Before His Celebrity Shines. The Mansion's New Chef Bruno Davaillon Is Breaking Into The Job Slowly, But It Seems Just A Matter Of Time Before His Celebrity Shines.
, January 21, 2010
In the absence of Michelin stars, The Mansion on Turtle Creek serves as Dallas' culinary measuring stick. The priciest restaurants are described... More >>
The Salvadorian Restaurant, Mario Sabino's, Suffers From An Identity Crisis, Lost Between The Sameness Of A Local Chain and The Authenticity of a Mom-And-Pop Shop. The Salvadorian Restaurant, Mario Sabino's, Suffers From An Identity Crisis, Lost Between The Sameness Of A Local Chain and The Authenticity of a Mom-And-Pop Shop.
, January 14, 2010
A couple years ago I sat in some fancy French restaurant watching two servers wheel a polished brass cart to my table. One of them fussed about a... More >>
Grace is Worth the Weight Grace is Worth the Weight
, January 07, 2010
Some people insist a diet of fatty foods not only rounds out the waistline, it also invites a series of almost certain future ills. If they're... More >>
This Decade Saw Dallas Evolve Into A Major Player On The National Dining Scene This Decade Saw Dallas Evolve Into A Major Player On The National Dining Scene
, December 31, 2009
Back in the spring of 2001, I sat with a group of friends in the dining room of Cuba Libra. Just about a year ago, I found myself at almost the... More >>
Jorge's Tex-Mex reaches for the ordinary and beyond in its upscale digs. Jorge's Tex-Mex reaches for the ordinary and beyond in its upscale digs.
, December 24, 2009
Tex-Mex establishments usually thrive on the come-as-you-are crowd, drawing from a vast array of jeans and ball caps and, long about brunch on... More >>
Stephan Pyles is Back in Fine Form -- Again -- With Samar Stephan Pyles is Back in Fine Form -- Again -- With Samar
, December 17, 2009
A friend tells me that when she dined at Samar, the waiter was forced to reach around and serve wine from the wrong side—an act for which he... More >>
Urban Crust: Great Pizza. Great Bar. What More Do You Want? Urban Crust: Great Pizza. Great Bar. What More Do You Want?
, December 10, 2009
"Where do you want to sit?" the waitress asks as I step inside Urban Crust. It hardly matters, so I shrug in response. The waitress—her name was... More >>
Hacienda On Henderson Has a Small Window And a Great Patio To Get Things Right Hacienda On Henderson Has a Small Window And a Great Patio To Get Things Right
, December 03, 2009
The people of Dallas love a good patio. But until places such as Dragonfly and Fearing's began sculpting refined enclosures and The Londoner... More >>
Craft, Despite the Economy, Just Keeps Plugging Along With its Simple Style of Minimalist Elegance. Craft, Despite the Economy, Just Keeps Plugging Along With its Simple Style of Minimalist Elegance.
, November 26, 2009
Craft is the Forrest Gump of Dallas restaurants. Not that the sophisticated space on the W Hotel's ground floor is in any way slow or befuddled... More >>
Uptown’s Geisha House Offers An On-Again, Off-Again Japanese Dining Experience. Try Going When It’s On-Again. Uptown’s Geisha House Offers An On-Again, Off-Again Japanese Dining Experience. Try Going When It’s On-Again.
, November 19, 2009
Like so many Asian restaurants, Geisha House sets its tables with disposable wooden chopsticks, the kind you break apart before using. The things... More >>
Smoke Gets In Your Eyes, Nose, Hair and Mouth--And That's A Good Thing Smoke Gets In Your Eyes, Nose, Hair and Mouth--And That's A Good Thing
, November 12, 2009
Smoke is—and isn't—what you think it is. There's barbecue all right, just as the name implies: brisket, ribs, even pulled pork. Chef Tim Byres... More >>
Chef Tre Wilcox, of Bravo and Food Network Fame, Wants to Make a Celebrity of his Restaurant, LOFT 610 Chef Tre Wilcox, of Bravo and Food Network Fame, Wants to Make a Celebrity of his Restaurant, LOFT 610
, November 05, 2009
Tre Wilcox shrugs off the name recognition gained through appearances on some of television's most popular cooking shows. "My window has passed,"... More >>
Smokin' at C.T.'s Real Deal BBQ Smokin' at C.T.'s Real Deal BBQ
, October 29, 2009
Even over the phone, you can feel Corey Toney's smile when he talks about his South Dallas barbecue joint, C.T.'s Real Deal BBQ. "There's a brick... More >>
York Street Gets It Right by Doing Everything Wrong York Street Gets It Right by Doing Everything Wrong
, October 22, 2009
Sharon Hage went about everything the wrong way when she opened York Street way back in May 2001. Not only was she among the first to tie her... More >>
In a City of Gaudy Prime Beef Palaces, Dragonfly Has No Problem Laying Claim to "Best Steaks in Dallas." In a City of Gaudy Prime Beef Palaces, Dragonfly Has No Problem Laying Claim to "Best Steaks in Dallas."
, October 15, 2009
Batman is suspended over the ocean waves with a shark clinging to his leg. Beating the beast on its nose fails to knock the 6-foot monster loose,... More >>
Good Pizza Makes Good Neighbors at Urbino on Henderson. Good Pizza Makes Good Neighbors at Urbino on Henderson.
, October 08, 2009
When David Pedack fires up his rickety ZAP car—a three-wheeled all-electric bug assembled in Hong Kong—and clatters down the street on a pizza... More >>
Tea Thyme & Tisane offers a taste of ’70s small-town  Texas--and a big helping of 2009 Internet promotion Tea Thyme & Tisane offers a taste of ’70s small-town Texas--and a big helping of 2009 Internet promotion
, October 01, 2009
As a kid, my parents subjected our family to a couple different themed meals on a regular basis. One was Dad's weekly catfish and hushpuppies... More >>
Ah, Espana Ah, Espana
, September 24, 2009
There's a boundary, a set of criteria, something that delineates those who like appetizers from those who quiver at the mention of tapas. Wish I... More >>
Numero Eno’s Numero Eno’s
, September 17, 2009
For some reason I can't get over the root beer float at Eno's. I know it's not a difficult thing to make—unless, of course, you follow my old... More >>
A lush patio makes the drive to the iffy neighborhood of Carolina’s Mexican Cuisine’s worth it. And so does the food. A lush patio makes the drive to the iffy neighborhood of Carolina’s Mexican Cuisine’s worth it. And so does the food.
, September 10, 2009
There we were, sipping drinks on a lush patio behind some sketchy 7-Eleven when a sudden, sharp spurt of maniacal laughter interrupted our... More >>
In Park's Kitchen, Prodigal Son Marc Cassel Makes His Return In Park's Kitchen, Prodigal Son Marc Cassel Makes His Return
The trendy spot is destined for success, though its menu is still a work in progress.
, September 03, 2009
In a famous biblical parable, a son takes his family inheritance and wastes it on riotous living in some distant land, returning home with empty... More >>
The Long Good Bye to Lola The Long Good Bye to Lola
, August 27, 2009
"It's kinda weird, honestly," chef David Uygur says of the impending closure of a restaurant he's been associated with for seven years. "It's... More >>
Bella gives a little-known, talented chef a place to shine Bella gives a little-known, talented chef a place to shine
, August 20, 2009
Everyone is familiar with Dean Fearings and Stephan Pyles and the other big boys of the Dallas dining set, but this year a group of relative... More >>
Hula Hotties Holds Sway in Oak Cliff Hula Hotties Holds Sway in Oak Cliff
, August 13, 2009
They don't mind telling you their story, the basic outline of which involves a graying couple moving from Hawaii to Oak Cliff and setting up a... More >>
Lumi Empanada and Dumpling Kitchen Makes a Fine Case for Walking in Dallas Lumi Empanada and Dumpling Kitchen Makes a Fine Case for Walking in Dallas
, August 06, 2009
Too bad no one can make it to Lumi. The restaurant is far more interesting than its immediate neighbors, although I say that with some... More >>
Cobb Switch Barbecue Knows What’s Important: Meat, Meat, Meat Cobb Switch Barbecue Knows What’s Important: Meat, Meat, Meat
, July 30, 2009
Whatever the dreary setting may do to your psyche, whatever hope may fade at the sight of cellophane-wrapped meat and kitchen staff trotting bags... More >>
Rathbun’s Blue Plate Kitchen Brings Regular Folks' Food to the Park Cities Rathbun’s Blue Plate Kitchen Brings Regular Folks' Food to the Park Cities
, July 23, 2009
Kent Rathbun opening a down-home Southern kitchen is a lot like asking an accomplished concert violinist—Joshua Bell, say—to play a fiddle tune.... More >>
Masaryk Hits a Solid "Mod-Mex" Note, Over and Over and Over Masaryk Hits a Solid "Mod-Mex" Note, Over and Over and Over
, July 16, 2009
Remember that Charlie Chaplin film Modern Times? Industrial gears grind and turn, round and round, over and over, in a graceful yet ultimately... More >>
Lemongrass Loves its Regular Customers. Newcomers Get Short Shrift. Lemongrass Loves its Regular Customers. Newcomers Get Short Shrift.
, July 09, 2009
I can only gather and repeat admonitions based upon my own experiences at a particular restaurant. For that reason, I will never return to... More >>
Cadot is Poised To Become One of the Best Mid-range Restaurants in Dallas Cadot is Poised To Become One of the Best Mid-range Restaurants in Dallas
, July 02, 2009
There's a timeworn bit of wisdom regarding too many cooks in the kitchen. They get in each other's way, argue over the proper interpretation of... More >>
Ava: A restaurant so good, Dave Faries might consider moving to Rockwall for...Nah. Ava: A restaurant so good, Dave Faries might consider moving to Rockwall for...Nah.
, June 26, 2009
Just why would anyone drive all the way to Rockwall? I mean, unless they happen to be stuck to a mortgage there. Yeah, there's the big... More >>
Salum: Paring Down Portions But Not Flavor at a Dining Gem Salum: Paring Down Portions But Not Flavor at a Dining Gem
, June 18, 2009
Some months ago, Abraham Salum faced a couple of moderately serious problems. Business slipped, first of all, as the recession began to squeeze... More >>
Naughty is nice at Central 214 Naughty is nice at Central 214
, June 11, 2009
Chef Blythe Beck likes things naughty—in the kitchen, on the plate, even at home, the tawdry cook can never say no when there's some oil and a... More >>
The Londoner serves up pub grub the way the Brits only wish they could The Londoner serves up pub grub the way the Brits only wish they could
, June 04, 2009
Some decades ago, there was this little chippy up on Hampstead High Street, a short walk from our London flat. It was here I first encountered... More >>
Nori Sushi Bar and Grill is a Surprising Good Catch Out in Chain-Restaurant Land Nori Sushi Bar and Grill is a Surprising Good Catch Out in Chain-Restaurant Land
, May 28, 2009
Closing in on 8 p.m. on a Friday and Nori is just about empty. A couple early diners abandoned the place about an hour before, and the lone guy... More >>
Agave Tex-Mex: Good, Bad and Ugly Agave Tex-Mex: Good, Bad and Ugly
, May 21, 2009
There will be good Tex-Mex and rumors of good Tex-Mex. Mostly rumors, though—at least in the Dallas area. It's a sad fact: apart from some... More >>
Red India Bistro Frees Chop Suey From Its Can Red India Bistro Frees Chop Suey From Its Can
, May 14, 2009
Chop suey. My God. By the '80s this dish had been relegated to La Choy and Chun King dinners. You know, the ones with two cans taped... More >>
Nick & Sam's Grill: Where Everybody Knows Your Name, or at Least Acts Like They Do Nick & Sam's Grill: Where Everybody Knows Your Name, or at Least Acts Like They Do
, May 07, 2009
Nickie is a fan of English football's perennial also-ran, Liverpool. That's neither here nor there, really, except that I got into a rather... More >>
Inca's serves up down-home food from way, way down south Inca's serves up down-home food from way, way down south
, April 30, 2009
There are a couple of things you should know before heading to Inca's, the Peruvian hangout in Carrollton. First, on a recent Friday night visit,... More >>
Zymology continues a Greenville Avenue trend Zymology continues a Greenville Avenue trend
, April 23, 2009
People demand certain things of restaurant patios. They want a view, perhaps, or a stream of passers-by, each more interesting than the last, and... More >>
Cava Serves Down-Home Comfort Food with a Latin Flair Cava Serves Down-Home Comfort Food with a Latin Flair
, April 16, 2009
If your oral surgeon misses by the tiniest fraction, that foolproof replacement tooth could end up cracking your mandible. Did you know that? I... More >>
Maximo takes a lot of pride in its food. We're not sure why. Maximo takes a lot of pride in its food. We're not sure why.
, April 09, 2009
You've heard this sort of thing before: "Your job is safe," or "I was just out with guys." Maybe you believe such assurances the first few times.... More >>
Wolfgang Puck soars high with Five-Sixty Wolfgang Puck soars high with Five-Sixty
, April 02, 2009
Dallas loves celebrity chefs. Hell, Guy what's-his-name, the one with the hair, from Food Network, drops by a restaurant or two and people... More >>
DiTerra’s Urban Italian DiTerra’s Urban Italian
It's always wise to eat where waiters eat
, March 26, 2009
I always wondered about the wisdom of that bit of advice that urges road-trippers to stop at diners with a bunch of trucks parked outside. Not... More >>
At Citrus Bistro, Good Things Come from Big Packages At Citrus Bistro, Good Things Come from Big Packages
, March 19, 2009
Remember the old saying "never trust a skinny chef"? Well, our waiter—the one with gunmetal hair—nods toward the back room where Didier Viriot... More >>
Marlo's House is a Dutch Treat Marlo's House is a Dutch Treat
, March 12, 2009
You just gotta go. This little place wedged into a Garland strip alongside dollar outlets and shabby marts is worth the drive from wherever, if... More >>
At Agave Azul, Tequila and Ornery Old Men Bring a New Look to Old Town Carrollton At Agave Azul, Tequila and Ornery Old Men Bring a New Look to Old Town Carrollton
, March 05, 2009
What is it about tamales? Lucky ones who grew up with tamales as a staple dish could script odes to the steaming cylinders of masa. Yet few... More >>
Cibus: Alberto Lombardi’s Newest Restaurant Follows a Comfortable, Well-worn Path Cibus: Alberto Lombardi’s Newest Restaurant Follows a Comfortable, Well-worn Path
, February 26, 2009
It has always been a point of envy how gracefully Alberto Lombardi's restaurants blend casual comfort with a strange sense of pretense. His sort... More >>
Fedora: Supper-Club Italian that Quickly Becomes Old Hat Fedora: Supper-Club Italian that Quickly Becomes Old Hat
, February 19, 2009
Once upon a time, supper clubs ruled the American dining scene. These were fancy dress and cocktail destinations with cigarette girls roaming the... More >>
Coast Global Seafood Coast Global Seafood
Skip the starters and dig right into the entrees
, February 12, 2009
This is the tale of two restaurants. Not one of those Dickensian best of- worst of- dichotomies, mind you. No, this is a story about strange but... More >>
Fruia's Tre Amici Fruia's Tre Amici
We like our red meat nice and wet
, February 05, 2009
Does Dallas need another steakhouse? Well, it's not as if we've really added one, as Fruia's Tre Amici merely fills in a gap vacated by Rick... More >>
Cadillac Ranch Offers a Bumpy Ride for Diners Cadillac Ranch Offers a Bumpy Ride for Diners
, January 29, 2009
Cadillac Ranch Three different servers interrupted my lunch, each seemingly desperate to know what I thought of the fried oysters. One even... More >>
Neighborhood Services
Goods things here are worth waiting for
, January 22, 2009
Neighborhood Services Temperatures had begun to settle from a tolerable peak of 50 degrees one evening when a man strolled intoNeighborhood... More >>
Hibashi Teppan Grill and Sushi Bar Hibashi Teppan Grill and Sushi Bar
Super-sizing the sushi bar the Texas way
, January 15, 2009
First impressions lead me to believe Steven Sohn is one of those larger-than-life, whoop-it-up Texas characters of legend. The Hibashi Teppan... More >>
Just How Blue-Collar is the Blue Collar Bar? Just How Blue-Collar is the Blue Collar Bar?
, January 08, 2009
Several years ago, in a somewhat disturbing trend, relatively affluent 20-somethings began donning Von Dutch trucker hats and crowding into the... More >>
A Tough Year for Local Restaurants Sputters to an End A Tough Year for Local Restaurants Sputters to an End
, January 01, 2009
This has been, by any standard, an interesting year. Americans made history by living up to—finally—the "regardless of race, creed or color"... More >>
RJ Mexican Cuisine: The West End Staple Should Focus on the Staples RJ Mexican Cuisine: The West End Staple Should Focus on the Staples
, December 25, 2008
If, thanks to Hollywood, one is likely to compare the seeming randomness of destiny to a Whitman's Sampler, what then stands in for life's... More >>
Bolsa: Delicious "Slow Food" Without the Smug. Bolsa: Delicious "Slow Food" Without the Smug.
, December 18, 2008
Years ago, in response to a seeming onslaught of prepackaged goods and quick-service chain restaurants, a few activist gourmands began spouting... More >>
Shish: Turkish, But no Delight Shish: Turkish, But no Delight
, December 11, 2008
Not having seen 300, Hollywood's beefcake version of the ancient grievances between Persia and the Greek city-states, I must settle for a more... More >>
Pyramid Room: As fun as a Vacation in Nebraska Pyramid Room: As fun as a Vacation in Nebraska
, December 04, 2008
How often must MBA recipients prove their "worthiness" before we finally stop listening? And before you many upstanding business folks finish... More >>
Suze Suze
In a generic strip mall setting, the chefs shine
, November 27, 2008
"Suze. No, S-U-Z-E—it's at Northwest Highway and Midway, right next to the Albertson's." This singular restaurant should need no introduction,... More >>
Normandie Alliance Reaches for France and Comes Up Short Normandie Alliance Reaches for France and Comes Up Short
, November 20, 2008
They were long and bleak, the months between March 2003 and January of this year—for local gourmands, anyway. Sure, one could pipe recorded... More >>
Victor Tango Victor Tango
Tristan Simon's and David McMillan's latest restaurant was meant for sharing
, November 13, 2008
The waitress attending my table one evening applied the ominous phrase "to die for" to almost every dish. Really, when I think about it, I'm not... More >>
Tei An is a Soba Success Tei An is a Soba Success
These noodles come with an authentic twist—mostly
, November 06, 2008
I've been told that men are simple creatures—assuming "my eyes are up here" means something along the lines of "simple." And a pig is, after all,... More >>
Pescabar's Identity Crisis Pescabar's Identity Crisis
Style and fusion overwhelm simpler Italian pleasures
, October 30, 2008
Just why do the folks at Pescabar set a pair of metal chopsticks on each table? Yes, raw fish—I get it. The kitchen lauds its presentation of... More >>
Go Fish Ocean Club Go Fish Ocean Club
The waiters chatter. Too bad the food doesn't exactly sing.
, October 23, 2008
If one of the waitstaff at Go Fish Ocean Club offers to "explain" some of the menu items, waive him off, say "no, we're good" or pretend you hear... More >>
Soley's blend of French-Italian Makes for an Awesome Saturday Night Soley's blend of French-Italian Makes for an Awesome Saturday Night
, October 16, 2008
A friend of mine refers to "Tuesday night" prices and "Saturday night" prices. By this he means not some inflationary trick, like hiking gas... More >>
Flavor Pulls a Disappearing Act at the Second Floor Flavor Pulls a Disappearing Act at the Second Floor
, October 09, 2008
What has yellow skin and writes? A ballpoint banana, of course. Stole that one from the classic 1966 version of Batman, the one where Penguin... More >>
Capriccio Ristorante shoots for Italian elegance but serves up tedium Capriccio Ristorante shoots for Italian elegance but serves up tedium
, October 02, 2008
As Americans, we know how to pick our nostalgia. We pluck the good, fleshy bits from the bones of our memories and leave the gristle to decay on... More >>
RA Sushi in Plano RA Sushi in Plano
The attitude's served up raw, but the execution is half-baked
, September 25, 2008
Sometime around second grade, with kiddie fat starting to fade into just awkward kid, I got my first taste of the Orient. My dad worked for a... More >>
Blackjack Pizza
, September 25, 2008
Toilets in the women's restroom that are on a platform that makes you feel like your peeing onstage count: 1 Credit cards accepted count:... More >>
Bland on Bland Bland on Bland
, September 18, 2008
Parking in front of Naan Korean Grill & Sushi Bar isn't free unless you drive a hybrid. They actually have meters in front of every primo spot in... More >>
Hello, Dali Hello, Dali
, September 11, 2008
At first glance, Dali Wine Bar & Cellar is a 7-Eleven. You drive down Routh Street, take a left at the 7-Eleven corporate offices sign and after... More >>
Cheap Hookah Cheap Hookah
In its own way, Al Amir is smokin’
, September 04, 2008
Upon hearing I had been assigned the duty of reviewing Al Amir, a Lebanese restaurant way up on Belt Line, I decided to study the restaurant's... More >>
Crêpe Expectations Crêpe Expectations
, August 28, 2008
I've never made a crêpe. Well, I'd never made a crêpe until recently, that is. Often, I go into restaurants to review them and I can say, "OK,... More >>
Still I Rise Still I Rise
A new Highland Park souffle joint is blowin' up
, August 21, 2008
There's a wonderful scene in an episode of Mad Men, AMC's drama about early-1960s New York ad execs, in which a character orders some sort of... More >>
The South Rises Again The South Rises Again
Screen Door swings both ways, melding traditional Southern cooking with modern cuisine
, August 14, 2008
Screen Door bills itself—in the parlance of some of the finest whiskeys—as a blend, a melding of modern culinary wisdom with decades of... More >>
Mi Corazón Mi Corazón
, August 07, 2008
A scene in 2003’s Lost in Translation depicts Bob (Bill Murray) and Charlotte (Scarlett Johansson) ordering shabu shabu from a menu that is... More >>
Faking It Faking It
, July 31, 2008
Ponder the paradox. The more we flee the grit of the city, the more we crave its talismans. We crave them so much we recreate them in the... More >>
Woodshed Trip Woodshed Trip
, July 24, 2008
Years ago, well before cigarette smokers were forced to take their leprosy to the gutter, the American grill was an unpretentious place of hearty... More >>
Pirate of the Caribbean Pirate of the Caribbean
, July 17, 2008
Ah, Dallas, the town with no history. Think about it: We tear down centuries-old buildings so we can erect temples built of fake bricks and... More >>
Ticket to Paradise Ticket to Paradise
, July 10, 2008
I planned out a vacation. It was an ambitious world tour touching down in various European, Mediterranean and South American countries. I would... More >>
Bull Ring Bull Ring
, July 03, 2008
Bolla is Italian for bull. Bolla is headed by Bull—chef David Bull, fresh from the Driskill Hotel in Austin, youngest sous chef ever to whip and... More >>
What's in a Name What's in a Name
, June 26, 2008
Think, for a moment, on these known establishments: Roscoe's House of Chicken 'n Waffles, Nathan's Famous Hot Dogs, Katz's Delicatessen,... More >>
Bengal Tiger Bengal Tiger
Spice and everything is nice at a new Indian eatery
, June 19, 2008
Brass balls. The first time I heard restaurateur Mark Brezinski, a founding partner of Tin Star and Pei Wei Asian Diner chains, was banking on... More >>
Spooked Grill Spooked Grill
, June 12, 2008
Gui rests on history. This cubed structure on McKinney Avenue has slowly morphed, traversing cultures with global hybrids—some eventually dumbed... More >>
Review: Cafe R&D Review: Cafe R&D
Café R&D serves up pretty, tasty dishes, but where's the meow mix?
, June 05, 2008
The prettiest dishes at Café R&D aren't coming out of the busy open kitchen; they're posing around the oval stretch of bar, or curled into the... More >>
Gregory's Restaurant Brings Seasoned Urban Couture to Plano Gregory's Restaurant Brings Seasoned Urban Couture to Plano
, May 29, 2008
Gregory's Restaurant is a loft-like establishment in an uppish urban two-story building of brick construction in a historic downtown—a... More >>
Review: Moroccan Lounge Medina Oven & Wine Bar Review: Moroccan Lounge Medina Oven & Wine Bar
, May 22, 2008
Medina Oven & Wine Bar is in Victory Park, so of course it is a restaurant with lounge-like accents. Nevertheless, there are no hookah pipes... More >>
Review: Neighborhood Diner John's Cafe a Not-So-Greasy Spoon Review: Neighborhood Diner John's Cafe a Not-So-Greasy Spoon
, May 15, 2008
From early breakfast to late lunch, John's Café doesn't pretend to be anything but a neighborhood diner serving basic, filling meals with a few... More >>
Review: The Food, Not the Setting, Impresses at Scene Restaurant & Lounge Review: The Food, Not the Setting, Impresses at Scene Restaurant & Lounge
, May 08, 2008
Scene, blessedly, is not much of one. Sure, it goes through a few strenuously correct motions, mingling beatnik inflections with aspirant... More >>
Review: Villa-O Review: Villa-O
The "O" is for original and organic.
, May 01, 2008
It's dedicated to the yearned for but often elusive O, subliminally, at least, judging by the comely scene coagulating around the sinuous bar—a... More >>
Review: Ounce Prime Steakhouse in Addison Review: Ounce Prime Steakhouse in Addison
Songs by committed vegan Moby play in the background as we dine on our red and dripping prime rib
, April 24, 2008
It's Sunday, the only day of the week other than Monday to test-drive this particular Ounce Prime Steakhouse signature. A full dinner: prime rib,... More >>
Review: Spiral Diner & Bakery Review: Spiral Diner & Bakery
Spiral Diner & Bakery lets you avoid sins of the flesh
, April 17, 2008
Dining out with a vegan is like a date with Mr. Bean, the Rowan Atkinson character for whom things rarely go right. In our group of friends, it's... More >>
Review: Nonna Review: Nonna
Clean, minimalist, delicious and sort of Italian
, April 10, 2008
In music you run headlong into cruelty when composing with an economy of notes, positioning single tones or sparse phrases in stark nakedness,... More >>
Review: Blue Canyon Kitchen, Tavern & Wine Bar Review: Blue Canyon Kitchen, Tavern & Wine Bar
, April 03, 2008
Blue Canyon Kitchen is one great wail of kitschy vigor, so loud your ears ring. Aspen logs, fully barked, hang from the ceiling. Tables are... More >>
Review: Charlie Palmer at The Joule Review: Charlie Palmer at The Joule
, March 27, 2008
Embedded in the ceiling, high above the dining room, is a series of lighted, saucer-like depressions. Huge silvery propellers are fixed within,... More >>
Review: The Fillmore Pub in Plano Review: The Fillmore Pub in Plano
Going green–both environmentally and Irish-spirited
, March 20, 2008
It's all about being green. Oprah gives tips on going green. TIME.com has a weekly green column. NBC has hosted a green week. Continental... More >>
Review: Cliff Cafe Review: Cliff Cafe
At Cliff Cafe retro diner style flourishes with some modern touches
, March 13, 2008
Aft the Cliff Café's gravel parking lot is a brick house—an ancestral McMansion with subtle ornate strokes that predate soaring chateau turrets... More >>
Review: Afghan Grill Review: Afghan Grill
At Afghan Grill, the fortunes of war pay delicious dividends
, March 06, 2008
There's magic to the kebab, properly prepped, fired with finesse over glowing coals. There's a hairsplitting technique to properly trimming and... More >>
Review: BayGrill in Frisco Review: BayGrill in Frisco
A long way from the shore, Frisco's BayGrill does fish (mostly) right
, February 28, 2008
Takes some nerve to open a restaurant in the westernmost flatlands of Frisco and call it BayGrill. It doesn't even have a bay window, this... More >>
Review: Yao Fuzi Cuisine Review: Yao Fuzi Cuisine
A pop and son duo bring authentic Chinese to Plano
, February 21, 2008
Chinese cuisine, with rare exceptions, is a mongrel of conformity in these parts: a risk-averse version of the intensely risky food. It's... More >>
Review: Olenjack's Grille Review: Olenjack's Grille
Olenjack's focuses its attention where it belongs—on food
, February 14, 2008
You can see the curving steel beams rise like a bump in the distance, cranes hovering over them like mantises, the spine arching out of a wave.... More >>
Review: The Fish Review: The Fish
The Fish could use a touch of poison to spice up its menu
, February 07, 2008
The Fish can be summed up in two words: sex and death. Not dead fish and bootylicious servers, but fish of death and high-backed banquettes done... More >>
Review: Bob's Steak & Chop House Review: Bob's Steak & Chop House
Bob's brings the beef to the 'burbs
, January 31, 2008
If there's one slap-in-the-face quality to Bob's Steak & Chop House in Grapevine, it's unabashed masculinity—even more so than at the cozier,... More >>
Review: Zen Sushi Review: Zen Sushi
Straightforward, simple and delicious, Zen Sushi delivers without fussiness
, January 24, 2008
Zen has something in it which makes it stand aloof from the scene of worldly sordidness and restlessness." —D.T. Suzuki, May 1953 What strikes... More >>
Review: James Rowland's Bistro Nous Review: James Rowland's Bistro Nous
Bistro Nous is inventive, but it's deviled by poor attention to details
, January 17, 2008
James Rowland is a turnaround artist. He has taken rusted junkers, loosened stuck bolts, tightened loose nuts and finessed it all with a little... More >>
Review: BLT Steak Review: BLT Steak
Steak without all the steakhouse B.S.
, January 10, 2008
There's something to be said for loose paper menus. Unlike the leather-bound ones, they're easy to manipulate. You can fold them and slip them... More >>
Review: Urban Taco Review: Urban Taco
Try a little Mexican food without the gloop and refrieds
, January 03, 2008
My favorite dining companion put it this way: Urban Taco sounds like something you'd order from the J. Peterman catalog. He's onto something.... More >>
Victory: That Gasoline Smell... Victory: That Gasoline Smell...
2007 started with the scent of napalm in the morning
, December 27, 2007
Victory. It's the biggest Dallas dining story of 2007—maybe of the new century, until some wily engineer figures out how to transform the Trinity... More >>
Review: Bukhara Grille Review: Bukhara Grille
We venture into Indian territory
, December 20, 2007
You don't get the pinks or the sheers, the lavish brasses or the visages of Shiva. You don't get the busy pungent fogs of a hundred spices ground... More >>
The Quarter in Addison The Quarter in Addison
Call it what you want, an Addison sports bar isn't New Orleans
, December 13, 2007
Some proprietors are meant to be bar owners and some are meant to run restaurants. I'd venture that Rudy Delgado and Alex Vest should open up a... More >>
Review: Genki Sushi & Steak Review: Genki Sushi & Steak
, December 06, 2007
In Japanese, it is written, genki means energy, vigor or spirit. To this the Genki Sushi & Steak menu adds: "It is our hope and commitment to... More >>
Review: Exposition Park Café Review: Exposition Park Café
So good we want to live there and probably could
, November 29, 2007
You can order food to go at Exposition Park Café, but just about the only reason to do it would be to get a change of scenery if you already ate... More >>
Review: Aló Cenaduria & Piqueos Review: Aló Cenaduria & Piqueos
, November 22, 2007
Not long after the Aló Cenaduria & Piqueos menu was unleashed, founding chef Taco Borga was chided for his spelling. Ceviche is lettered... More >>
Review: Sultan Café in Richardson Review: Sultan Café in Richardson
Skip the food and fire up a hookah instead
, November 15, 2007
There's an old adage that gets thrown around at business dinners and happy hours and parental lectures: Do one thing and do it well. Or, as... More >>
Review: Pho New Bay Review: Pho New Bay
, November 08, 2007
There is no music in Pho New Bay, but there is a high-definition television set anchored in one corner. It is tuned to the Discovery Channel.... More >>
Review: Cafe Rembrandt Review: Cafe Rembrandt
Maintaining a warm and inviting space
, November 01, 2007
Walk into a restaurant and you want to feel welcome, wanted. There's something to be said for a chic, modern dining experience or traditional... More >>
Review: The Club Dining & Drinks Review: The Club Dining & Drinks
Shake, baby, shake
, October 25, 2007
It has the look of a speakeasy, or a port of ill-repute where scruples are scarce commodities. The entrance to The Club is in the quiet,... More >>
Review: Luna de Noche Review: Luna de Noche
In excess
, October 18, 2007
Luna de Noche's Gourmet Tex-Mex in Victory Park is the sixth location for the chain helmed by Lisa Galvan-Cuevas. She started the first of the... More >>
Review: Fearing's at the Ritz Carlton Review: Fearing's at the Ritz Carlton
Fearing (but no loathing) in Uptown
, October 11, 2007
Fearing's is a well-oiled machine. Service is prompt. Water is chilled and filled. Wine recommendations are astute. Skipping through the list,... More >>
Review: Dallas Fish Market Review: Dallas Fish Market
The Market may become the city's seafood pinnacle
, October 04, 2007
In Dallas, seafood is the black sheep, a gangly, stinky stepchild that doesn't take to wood-fired grates or high-degree broilers with the same... More >>
Small-Town Celebrity Small-Town Celebrity
Big Star Burgers is perfectly cast in a tasty leading role
, September 27, 2007
On Main Street in Rowlett sits a florist and other storefronts, a few park benches, a grassy median and Big Star Burgers. The town square vibe is... More >>
Naked Dinner Naked Dinner
No muss, no fuss, great taste at Olea
, September 20, 2007
Every once in a while—not often, but often enough to prompt a sensory readjustment—you come across a dish with a glaring hole in the flavor... More >>
The Haunting The Haunting
Tradicion can't shake the ghost of restaurants past
, September 13, 2007
The things about Tradicion that stick in the mind are the remnants, the leftovers. Tradicion is the work of Ricardo Avila. Avila grips the reins... More >>
Pie Quagmire Pie Quagmire
Wade on in to Olivella’s pizzas. It’s worth it.
, September 06, 2007
Olivella's is outrunning its headlights. Its mouth can't keep pace with the speed of its mind. Or is it vice versa? It's not hard to pick up the... More >>
Grecian Yearn Grecian Yearn
The truth is, Kavala is mostly a beauty
, August 30, 2007
Kavala is like a finely chiseled face with a crooked nose or a chipped tooth or maybe a misshapen beauty mark. There's a lot to love here. The... More >>
Empty Nets Empty Nets
Here’s a catch that’s not a keeper
, August 23, 2007
I admit it. For approximately one month, every time I have driven by the new Dallas Saltwater Willy's Seafood & Steakhouse location I've... More >>
Guilty Pleasures Guilty Pleasures
You don’t have to wait for a taste of the State Fair
, August 16, 2007
There's something about good ol' American traditions like co-ed sporting leagues and state fairs that lend themselves naturally to ingesting... More >>
From Fino to Flan From Fino to Flan
The sherry, baby, will make you come out tonight to Café Madrid
, August 09, 2007
To fully plumb the pleasures of tapas, it is essential to begin with a small cylindrical glass of fino, just a couple of ounces. Fino sherry... More >>
Hooked Hooked
Sushi Sakana is a strip-mined gem
, August 02, 2007
"Strip mall" used to mean a massive parking lot, a grocery store, a nail place (with some obvious name like "Nails Here"), a wacky wing place and... More >>
Braying Rock Braying Rock
Stone Horse Bistro is a mix of virility and lethargy
, July 26, 2007
There's a certain lethargy to Stone Horse Bistro, a stiffness. It doesn't completely unravel the place, but frays are visible through its gaunt... More >>
Slick Porch Slick Porch
New Tristan Simon venture has good food, little personality
, July 19, 2007
To understand The Porch, you need to understand the legend of Steve Stodghill. Stodghill is the humble Batman fanboy turned top fuel litigator... More >>
Do It Yourself Do It Yourself
For food like this, you might as well stay home
, July 12, 2007
Sandra Lee was the oldest of five siblings and, according to her Web site, helped fashion quality meals for her family on their welfare budget.... More >>
Crab Case Crab Case
SushiSamba is not without stimulating promise
, July 05, 2007
Make your way to SushiSamba, even if it's just for one thing and one thing only. If you can stand the thick swatches of bright pink, saturated... More >>
Tavern Noir Tavern Noir
Victory Tavern is stylish without being smug
, June 28, 2007
Maybe you're a mutant. Maybe you're the kind of bloke who wants to waddle down to Victory Park—noting the cognitive dissonance of the Blade... More >>
More Gold, Less Glitter More Gold, Less Glitter
Kenichi is devoted to tickling palates
, June 21, 2007
If you bring it to a vigorous boil, steaming off the wine lists, the flatware and the dainty flourishes with raw fish and Kobe beef, Victory Park... More >>
Just Beachy Just Beachy
You can almost hear the surf pound at the Cape Grill
, June 14, 2007
If only The Cape Grill were situated where ideally it should be. That is, a half-mile or less from a pounding blue surf, a stretch of white beach... More >>
Bejeweled and Bedeviled Bejeweled and Bedeviled
La Joya makes boilerplate Mexican transcendent
, June 07, 2007
You'd think we'd get more Mexican than we do. The real stuff, the kind that grips you with such intensity you want to light a candle to the... More >>
Cloud Nine Cloud Nine
Come for the glitz, stay for the food
, May 31, 2007
You can go to Nove Italiano and surrender your body and your mind to the overloaded sensory broadsides from the lights, the plasma screens and... More >>
Wine, Loin and Kiddie Tech Wine, Loin and Kiddie Tech
Bin 555 is good for grownups too
, May 24, 2007
If this is the year of anything in Chinese zodiac parlance, it is the year of the disruptive tech rat, the upheaving cyber-pig, the transfiguring... More >>
In the Zone In the Zone
Bold, balanced flavors at SaWaDiKa
, May 17, 2007
At one particular Thai restaurant in my neighborhood, I have endeavored for close to a decade to earn the approval of the hostess/waitress. The... More >>
Roux Note Roux Note
Can this new seafood joint draw the jazz lovers?
, May 10, 2007
Dinner jazz. Tasty thought. Yet it never seems to take hold. Sure, there are the pianos in the steakhouses, the crooners in the bars gone... More >>
Deathless Tiki Tacky Deathless Tiki Tacky
Kitsch is cool again at Trader Vic's
, May 03, 2007
Don Ho is dead. He was laid low in mid-April by heart failure. He was 76. He was called Hawaii's best ambassador. He was a Waikiki showroom... More >>
Hey, Joe Hey, Joe
Josephine's Restaurant has appeal and gobs of potential
, April 26, 2007
"Frisco's first 4-star restaurant with a 3-star rating." Chris Gangi says that's a jab at The Dallas Morning News and its new restaurant rating... More >>
Old Dog,  New Tricks Old Dog, New Tricks
A new regime brings changes to the Mansion, some good, some not.
, April 19, 2007
Jacket required. Tie recommended. No jeans. No shorts. No tennis shoes. The Mansion is not casual, not even the smart kind. But what's this?... More >>
Craic Den Craic Den
Friendly atmosphere and good food bring you baic
, April 12, 2007
When you stop by McCarty's in Richardson—and you should—ask one of the regulars at the bar about the time a guy tried to make off with the... More >>
Doing Izzy Doing Izzy
Isabella is North Texas Italian boilerplate--with a few twists
, April 05, 2007
I would like to introduce you to a very special lady... What you'll notice first—besides the menacing rebar in a support post near the man... More >>
N9NE-Eleven N9NE-Eleven
Haute cuisine battles with nightclub bombast at N9NE
, March 29, 2007
Everyone says it's the beef. It's the cut. It's the animal. It's the grade. Sometimes it's the broiler: all 1,800 degrees worth. At N9NE Steak... More >>
Get the Hook Get the Hook
Things aren't going swimmingly at Fish Express
, March 22, 2007
Seafood is brain food" says the motto on the menu at Fish Express. Given the name of the place, an expectation of good fish served quickly would... More >>
Of Pop Rocks and Kobe Of Pop Rocks and Kobe
Luqa's a culinary force of elegant simplicity
, March 15, 2007
Grace Jones' voice spills from the lounge and hovers over the table. These are the hazards of placing a loft lounge over your dining room. The... More >>
Survival Skills Survival Skills
Park Cities Prime tickles the umami receptors
, March 08, 2007
What about the dinosaurs? This is often the question posed when science wrestles with God, when empirical evidence scrums with Scripture. The... More >>
Does Beau Know? Does Beau Know?
Crescent restaurant is neatly tailored, but its edges fray
, March 01, 2007
Beau's is like a temporarily rearranged living room, the kind you'd disassemble and neatly refit to absorb extras guests. Sure, its setting in a... More >>
May Oui? May Oui?
Le Rendezvous dares to take its sweet time
, February 22, 2007
To say the service and pacing of courses at Le Rendezvous is leisurely is to make them sound too rushed. This newly reopened French place on the... More >>
Successful Mess Successful Mess
Little Katana dazzles with kitchen inventions
, February 15, 2007
What's most amazing about Little Katana, the Travis Street edition, isn't the food, though some of it is astounding. The Asian bouillabaisse for... More >>
Tempted? Tempted?
Temptations Indian Cuisine is less than seductive
, February 08, 2007
Indian cuisine is an unruly knot of temperaments. It's not easy to tame. It's even harder to unravel and understand once it is tamed. Take curry.... More >>
Hate Crime Hate Crime
Bijoux is an endearing experience
, February 01, 2007
Gourmands make their graves with their teeth. —French proverb Bijoux is for those who hate food—hate to be away from it, hate it when it's... More >>
Ellumentary Ellumentary
Comfort food in a reincarnated restaurant in Deep Ellum
, January 25, 2007
Hearing that Deep Ellum Café is back in business in its original location at 2706 Elm St. is like finding out that a good old friend has moved... More >>
The Geisha Rub The Geisha Rub
Mysterious, sensual, entertaining? Nah, not this geisha.
, January 18, 2007
Behind the Geisha Steak and Sushi Lounge sushi bar is a sushi clock: ticktock, ticktock. Shrimp is two, octopus is three, salmon eggs (ikura) are... More >>
Collapse of Socialism Collapse of Socialism
Hotel Lumen restaurant struggles with some simple details
, January 11, 2007
Hotel Lumen bills itself as an enlightened hotel. It "illuminates its sophisticated setting" with "light-themed" artwork and a "vibrant retro... More >>
Chick Envy Chick Envy
Chic introduces the secrets of Barcelona rotisserie
, January 04, 2007
We would like CHIC from Barcelona to become a welcoming oasis in Dallas. We want people to think of Chic when they think of Barcelona. We want... More >>
Bones to Pick Bones to Pick
Is the 2006 invasion of culinary foreigners killing off our local character?
, December 28, 2006
They're relics: Stephan Pyles' bone-in cowboy rib eye and Dean Fearing's lobster tacos. They cling to evolving menus like vestiges from a bygone... More >>
Boutique Peasantry Boutique Peasantry
Central 214 blends the humble and the noble
, December 21, 2006
hither the chef-driven restaurant, the stand-alone room blossoming from a former dry cleaner or sports bar or neighborhood pharmacy? It's a... More >>
Ginned Up Ginned Up
BlackFinn takes the "Irish" out of Irish pub
, December 14, 2006
By the turn of the 20th century, the Irish saloon began to take on a mainstream role in American cities. As the great potato famine in Ireland in... More >>
Chopper Fooey Chopper Fooey
4050 skips the chophouse boilerplate
, December 07, 2006
Chophouse boilerplate is as follows: plush fabrics, the iceberg wedge, jewel case wine rooms cuddling cult Cabernets and pompous Bordeaux, the... More >>
Speed Stix Speed Stix
Royal Chopstix is visually vibrant but less than exotic
, November 30, 2006
Use of the "royal" in Asian restaurant titles is rampant: Royal China Restaurant, Royal Chinese Restaurant and Royal Thai in Dallas, plus Royal... More >>
Blow Out Blow Out
Follow the Four Winds to Wills Point
, November 23, 2006
In the thick of country pitch-black, it's hard to perceive the grandeur of Four Winds Steakhouse scenery. The night constricts everything to the... More >>
Holy Buzz Holy Buzz
Shinsei froths with sincere creativity
, November 16, 2006
Meditate. Live purely. Be quiet. Do your work, with mastery. Buddha said that. Shinsei borrowed it. This isn't surprising. All manner of... More >>
Alley Fat Alley Fat
This grill requires a high-cholesterol billfold
, November 09, 2006
Grill on the Alley is a New American sucker punch; a dining blitzkrieg, albeit one leavened with polished elegance if you don't count the... More >>
Seriously Speaking Seriously Speaking
Yutaka: less hip, less edgy, more embracing
, November 02, 2006
Yutaka is nothing if not a hole in the wall—a postmodern orifice at that. Bored out of a strip mall just north of the Hard Rock Café on McKinney... More >>
No Masterpiece No Masterpiece
Grotto serves typical Dallas Italian. Too bad.
, October 26, 2006
In Grotto there is a painting of a nude woman painting a cityscape. This is important. Because nothing encapsulates the complete Grotto... More >>
Coasting Coasting
Catalina Room is like a California Applebee's
, October 19, 2006
California: ocean winds, sunny days, Hollywood glamour, cocktail-like fusions of culture, varied landscapes and traffic. California cuisine:... More >>
Hold 'n' Fold Hold 'n' Fold
Excellent seafood, iffy steak at Merkow's
, October 12, 2006
Merkow's steak is an ace of spades and a seven of hearts. Those are the cards Merkow's Seafood & Steak owner Gregg Merkow was dealt when he... More >>
Med Head Med Head
Urban Bistro’s menu is studded with imaginative vignettes
, October 05, 2006
As of this writing, the spinach tragedy seems to be abating. Despite The Wall Street Journal's headline "Spinach's pain is arugula's gain," a New... More >>
Dough Mine Dough Mine
Fossil fuel makes for delicious pies
, September 28, 2006
The number of times Dallas has attempted to coach pizza to at least mediocrity seems uncountable. Of course, it's possible we never really tried... More >>
Island of Calm Island of Calm
Kona's tasty happy hour won't break the bank
, September 21, 2006
It is raining hard the second time I make it to Kona Grill. One of those bad boyfriend summer rains--the kind that shows up unexpectedly, sticks... More >>
Lucky 13 Lucky 13
Almost everything is engaging at Trece
, September 14, 2006
It's hard to get used to the 4513 Travis St. address in this guise. Its predecessor Sipango was a temple of boho chic, a hall of used brick and... More >>
Scantily Clad Scantily Clad
Simplicity is surprisingly lush at Craft
, September 07, 2006
Craft is brevity. Look at the menu. It's little more than a series of columns with headings such as "meat" and "pasta, grains & beans" and... More >>
Gumbo Rune Gumbo Rune
DaZa offers a dash of Creole poetry
, August 31, 2006
Names of dishes roll off the tongue with touches of lyricism: gumbo, jambalaya, muffuletta, po-boy, étouffée, red beans and rice. The syllables... More >>
Cover Up Cover Up
Is ZEA overcompensating for a lack of New Orleans soul?
, August 24, 2006
What's so wrong with bald? Bald (or a well-groomed balding, mind you) is sexy, cool, natural and, most important, tasteful. So why is it that the... More >>
Burnout Burnout
A few glowing embers can be found at Firehouse
, August 17, 2006
Last time we sampled chef Bruno Mella's craft, it was at Mel's on Main, a short-lived Deep Ellum restaurant and bar featuring a mounted and... More >>
Buffett Dining Buffett Dining
Why don't we get drunk and...eat crab cakes?
, August 10, 2006
Nothing says family dining like a tawdry tune about love at last call. Jimmy Buffett might agree with that, but Saltwater Willy's Seafood and... More >>
Thai That Binds Thai That Binds
Nakhon stretches beyond the usual
, August 03, 2006
From the outside, it isn't much. It's easy to miss: a double-decker strip mall stretch done in drab concrete gray with charcoal awnings. But the... More >>
Bouncing Chicken Bouncing Chicken
Silly name, clever pollo
, July 27, 2006
Basketball announcer Marv Albert's brief conversation with Marco Polo's ghost: Marv: You've had a hell of a career. The silk road. Working the... More >>
Head East Head East
Alessio's is Euro-friendly
, July 20, 2006
The thousands of miles separating Milan from Saigon are hardly felt just east of downtown Dallas. Natives call the neighborhood Old East Dallas... More >>
Brio Blande Brio Blande
Corporate Tuscan fails to impress at Brio
, July 13, 2006
MapQuest can't digest Southlake Town Square. Punch in one of its Plaza Place addresses, and it strings you across the Mid-Cities, threads you... More >>
Flaccid Flirt Flaccid Flirt
Tryst arouses, but is it just a tease?
, July 06, 2006
Tryst (the word) arouses with lascivious implications. A flood of them. The head swims in the salacious stew. Say the word. Tryst. Notice how... More >>
Gator Done Gator Done
Crustaceans launches an "a-salt" on the taste buds
, June 29, 2006
Cajun used to mean exotic. Twenty-five years ago, before Chef Paul Prudhomme foisted his blackened redfish on gustatory history--giving lesser... More >>
Bagging  the Muse Bagging the Muse
In the bag: Amuse Restaurant is--wait for it--amusing. Really, it is.
, June 22, 2006
Enter Cryovac. Invented years ago by a company called Sealed Air, which distributes everything from bubble wraps to extruded plank foams, Cryovac... More >>
Open Arms Open Arms
Friendly Starfish does clean Cajun seafood in Oak Cliff
, June 15, 2006
It used to be a Dairy Queen, which helps explain the Sunday-Monday-Happy-Days feeling inside Starfish Seafood Diner. Walk up to the counter to... More >>
Dining's a Bitch Dining's a Bitch
Beach-Aye, the Navel-Gazer
, June 08, 2006
Pinned to the server's starched white jacket lapel is a long narrow ruby bar trimmed in gold--a ruby sliver really. Guest: Tell me about your... More >>
Cowtown Twist Cowtown Twist
Saporé is easy to love
, June 01, 2006
The European twists are there, to be sure: truffles, snails, pâté and Parma prosciutto. There's a sort of winsome arrogance to the BLT, which is... More >>
Brown Study Brown Study
Aqua doesn't impress-doesn't even try
, May 25, 2006
If you don't like to eat in public, Aqua Italian Bistro and Bar is just about perfect. Think of it as a don't-see-anyone/won't-be-seen kind of... More >>
Wallop Pack
Size matters--and so does steak--at Ranch
, May 18, 2006
Steak--damn straight--is the mother's milk of Dallas dining. When imagination fails you, when the prospect of culinary risk numbs the cojones,... More >>
Lone Bull Lone Bull
Steak and solitude at the lakeside
, May 11, 2006
Let's put aside pup tents for a moment. The American cowboy is an icon of rugged individualism coupled with stalwart determination, plus a little... More >>
Thank Heaven Thank Heaven
Irving's Kasbah Grill replaces lukewarm 7-Eleven hot dogs with great Moroccan fare
, May 04, 2006
It's easy to get a sense of where the cash registers rang up cups of coffee and pouches of teriyaki jerky. You can tell by the cameras fastened... More >>
Very Little Italy Very Little Italy
Bravo Italia offers nothing offensive, nothing spectacular
, April 27, 2006
Neighborhood joints, whether bar or restaurant, have always been difficult to define in broad strokes. A few become notable culinary destinations... More >>
Latino Pupae Latino Pupae
Latin food without the lard? It's better than you think.
, April 20, 2006
have seen the metamorphosis, the changes in customer behavior." --Dante Picazo Before Dante Picazo began his quest to tickle American tongues... More >>
Psycho Greens Psycho Greens
Arugula anguish and lettuce laments don't deter Greenz from churning out fresh salads
, April 13, 2006
Partial transcript from group therapy session, Baylor University Medical Center, March 15, 2006. ...screamed in agony. It was like someone,... More >>
Lanny's Things Lanny's Things
Lanny's offers "high eating"
, April 06, 2006
Parking is hard, so this tells you something. Every slot contains a car--Mercedes, BMW, Lexus and so on. A manager in a crisp suit strolls out... More >>
East Meets Old West East Meets Old West
Hui Chuan offers fresh and delicate flavors
, March 30, 2006
Let's try out that old Sesame Street game, shall we? One of these things is not like the others; one of these things just doesn't belong. Did... More >>
Alien Eats Alien Eats
Kitchen 1924 fulfills its promise of unpretentious food that tastes good
, March 23, 2006
Centuries before it was a place to down lobster shooters or short ribs ringed in heirloom red potato hash, a restaurant was a thing to sip, not a... More >>
Off Bloom Off Bloom
Stop at Poppy's when you're ready to "wine down"
, March 16, 2006
McKinney's culinary culture has had a couple of peculiarities over the recent years. Witness the Prison, circa 2000. The Prison was a New... More >>
Mexican Swim Mexican Swim
Piscatory and carnivorous delights at Café San Miguel
, March 09, 2006
The most significant challenge in restaurateuring has little to do with fortunes big or small, lost or stolen. That comes later, maybe after... More >>
Popularity Contest Popularity Contest
This grill exhibits pleasant mellowness
, March 02, 2006
Kenny's Wood Fired Grill is designed to resemble a 1940s Chicago-style chophouse serving New England-style seafood, pumping Uptown's favorite... More >>
Oh Boyardee! Oh Boyardee!
Tarantino's Italian-American comfort fare is filling but unchallenging
, February 23, 2006
Deep Ellum in bright sunlight can be a downright alarming sight. There's no hint of lurid, neon-streaked discord. Only silent brick structures,... More >>
Bistro World Bistro World
Atmosphere trumps cuisine at Cosmo Rouge
, February 16, 2006
Perhaps this is not intentional, but Cosmo Rouge Bistro & Lounge feels like The Black Lodge. You remember the Black Lodge? It was tucked in thick... More >>
Up, Out  And Down Up, Out And Down
Metro Grill surpasses first impressions
, February 09, 2006
The opening act was almost comic. The setup: waiting at the sparsely attended bar for a dinner companion to arrive, ordering vodka martini up... More >>
Of Claws and Loins Of Claws and Loins
Steve Fields is steak-and-lobsteriffic
, February 02, 2006
Sitting in Steve Fields Lobster Lounge is like being in a lava lamp. Not because of blobs floating and bumping to the muffled sounds of Jefferson... More >>
Fish Story Fish Story
Adventurous chef "Pyles" it on
, January 26, 2006
"Do you think Dallas is ready for this?" Imagine Dallas' most successful chef--an icon firmly embedded in television, cookbookery and Dallas... More >>
Soul Food Soul Food
: At Rafain Brazilian Churrascaria, all you can eat is less than you think
, January 19, 2006
If bound to commit one of the seven deadly sins, a trespasser might as well have a bit of fun while engaged in the act. Lust should be directed... More >>
Kiss, Kiss Kiss, Kiss
Asian fusion stumbles at Café Japon
, January 12, 2006
To discover the essence of a restaurant, you often must probe beneath the covers and mine for subtexts. Do this with Café Japon, and what do you... More >>
Winners  and Losers Winners and Losers
Nick & Sam's courts perfection but doesn't quite pull it off
, January 05, 2006
The demands of life force little trade-offs every day. Burgers and fries are far more appealing than a simple green salad, for example, but a... More >>
Is Screwing Hip? Is Screwing Hip?
We twist open 2005 for a nip. Is this a sign of things to come?
, December 29, 2005
Back in the day, after restaurants were ravaged by bursting equity market bubbles and brutal terrorists kicking in New York City's architectural... More >>
Seeing Green Seeing Green
, December 22, 2005
The focal point in Salum is a circa 1940s buffet captured at auction in New York. It is both an obstacle and a hem loosely defining a spacious... More >>
No Faux
This "brasstrofé" conjures European yumminess
, December 15, 2005
Culinary terminology has slipped through the looking glass into that ambiguous place where a word means just what someone intends it to mean. For... More >>
Keeps Going Keeps Going
Familiar, comfortable food soldiers on at The Bronx
, December 08, 2005
The Bronx is divided into wings. Walk into the vestibule and notice the bistro-ish dining nook off to the left with simple chairs and wooden... More >>
Nicked Name Nicked Name
Hall of Fame is Hall of Same Ol' Mediocre Barbecue
, December 01, 2005
Near the end of our second visit to Randy White's Hall of Fame Barbeque a guest at our table asked a pointed question: Why would a local football... More >>
French Feint French Feint
Gallic is far from galling at The French Room
, November 24, 2005
It's early in The French Room. It's filled not with diners but with music plucked and bowed from a string quartet. A harpsichord joins the jam.... More >>
Raising  the Bar Raising the Bar
More than olives and beer nuts, Vickery Park takes pub grub to the next level
, November 17, 2005
Don't call Vickery Park. It's just a neighborhood tavern tucked alongside dressier venues on Henderson Avenue, after all. No need for... More >>
Long and Winding Roe Long and Winding Roe
Competence but not excitement at Hanasho
, November 10, 2005
Sushi is a commodity, one with a vigor that shows no signs of dissipating. It has conquered strip malls, fast food and grocery stores. Sushi has... More >>
The Name Game The Name Game
"Fine Dining" when they don't try too hard
, November 03, 2005
There's a scene in the football-bashing film North Dallas Forty in which a doltish offensive lineman sets out to meet some investors who plan to... More >>
Just for Kix? Just for Kix?
Hotel dining in Richardson? About what you'd expect.
, October 27, 2005
t's Thursday, October 13. Thank God it's not Friday, because as luck would have it, we find ourselves in the Richardson Hotel. Richardson has... More >>
Well-Heeled Well-Heeled
Bring your reading glasses--and appetite--to Capriccio
, October 20, 2005
Food is the new whatever used to occupy the portion of our minds devoted to culture. Unfortunately, that implies a certain amount of the old... More >>
Go Fish Go Go Fish Go
Points for creativity, but simplicity is good seafood at Go Fish
, October 13, 2005
Odd to open a restaurant named after a child's card game. In the past, chef Chris Svalesen has been more succinct. "Fish" was the downtown... More >>
Trouble With Paradise Trouble With Paradise
Eden learns that a good restaurant review isn't always good news
, October 06, 2005
It's Saturday night in Eden, and the gods are angry. We're sitting inside the small converted ranch house watching a restaurant in the midst of... More >>
Hear the Hiss Hear the Hiss
Fuse's Menu Bangs, Decor Wimpers
, September 29, 2005
Here's a prediction: Fuse will last as long as a lit fuse. But it won't go out with a megaton cherry-bomb pop. It will go out with a pfffft. A... More >>
Blue Yodel Blue Yodel
Main Street Blues Room leaves you singing "Hallelujah"
, September 22, 2005
Things aren't always what they seem. Take, for example, Main Street Blues Room. At first glance it's a rustic tin utility building more suited... More >>
Middle  of the Boot Middle of the Boot
Compelling Italian surprises at Riccardi's
, September 15, 2005
Just because you're upscale doesn't mean you can't kitsch. Riccardi's does it, with flair maybe, but it does it. Riccardi's is tucked in the... More >>
Discomfort Zone Discomfort Zone
Comfort food, bewildering atmosphere at Manny's
, September 08, 2005
Buzz past Manny's Uptown Tex-Mex Restaurante during prime time on a Saturday night, and you'll likely glimpse a chaotic scene. Hungry would-be... More >>
Fiscal Dieting Fiscal Dieting
Banking on famous names, Nobu is proud to be pricey
, September 01, 2005
Nobu has a sake called Devil Killer. Not sure why this brew is branded a demon slayer, but a large slanted bottle of the stuff is $20. Maybe... More >>
Better In  The 'Burbs Better In The 'Burbs
Plano restaurant delights with authentic Italian
, August 25, 2005
Urban provincialism is an interesting thing. Over and over we hear people inside the loop dismiss anything north of LBJ or lodged in the... More >>
Higher Standard Higher Standard
Byres' reborn restaurant still goes above and beyond
, August 18, 2005
One of the fascinating elements of Standard is roadkill. Not on the menu, mind you. Still, if an edible animal is killed by an all-season radial... More >>
Sternum Warning Sternum Warning
Forgettable food and mediocre service are bosom buddies at Twin Peaks
, August 11, 2005
Envision standing beer in hand on a Saturday night, waiting for a table in a place overwhelmed by blubber-laden, hairy men in ball caps and... More >>
Life Proverbs Life Proverbs
Life ebbs and flows and Sushi Zushi
, August 04, 2005
As the old Japanese proverb says, if you have the pleasant experience of eating something you haven't tasted before, you life will be extended by... More >>
An Uneven Slope An Uneven Slope
An Uneven Slope: Inconsistencies make for an unpredictable ride at Walnut Hill Grill
, July 28, 2005
Every little ripple in the landscape bears a name, such as Walton's Mountain. Good example, really, because some people revered the sappy '70s... More >>
Big Boner Big Boner
Luckily, Bone Daddy's kitchen has better taste than the signs on its walls
, July 21, 2005
Clams, our most popular item, is not even on our menu --Bone Daddy's vestibule sign The servers at Bone Daddy's House of Smoke wear a tightly... More >>
Who  Needs PR? Who Needs PR?
Mofongo's pretty good--as long as you avoid the signature dish
, July 14, 2005
The age of imperialism ended, oh, 50 or 60 years ago. Not a particularly glorious era. European countries exploited distant lands and beat down... More >>
Brass-Knuckle Blossom
Believe the hype: Hibiscus may be named for a showy flower, but it's still strong enough for a man
, July 07, 2005
What is Hibiscus, anyway? Why is this restaurant so marinated in hype? Is it the special effects? Partly. In the beginning there were those black... More >>
Green Machine Green Machine
Forget the sushi; stick with the specials at Asian Mint
, June 30, 2005
If there's one thing Asian Mint, Asian Fusion Café does, it is this: It takes its name seriously. You wouldn't think this, judging from the... More >>
Gut Blast From the Past Gut Blast From the Past
Cheeburger Cheeburger captures the essence of the greasy spoon--not in look, but in bloated regret
, June 23, 2005
The past? Americans just can't handle the past. Pop culture informs our understanding of the world. The family values myth, much of that stuff... More >>
Some Good Some Good
AllGood Cafe lives up to its name only sometimes
, June 16, 2005
Why should we pay for home cooking? Hell, it's the same stuff Mom whipped up free of charge for decades. It's always a bit perturbing to see... More >>
Ageless Ageless
Angela's Bistro 51 shows great promise
, June 09, 2005
Here, the bartender is savvy. Sit down at the bar and prod him into talking about vodka. Ketel One is good; Skyy is hype. Of course, this could... More >>
Popping  the Lid Popping the Lid
Pandora Japanese Cuisine is minimal, and that's the least we can say
, June 02, 2005
"At Pandora, a spirit of modernity gives new life to the elemental purity of Japanese tradition. Inside, find the décor is minimal, but... More >>
Portrait of the Art Cafe Portrait of the Art Cafe
Kathleen's Plano location is no work of art
, May 26, 2005
There was one peculiar thing about Kathleen's Art Café, the Plano outpost of the original Lovers Lane installment. It wasn't the legendary... More >>
Otherworldly Feast Otherworldly Feast
Experimentation is rewarded at Sura Korean Bistro
, May 19, 2005
Eating is a form of transport. Think about it. Close your eyes with a piece of cheeseburger from McDonald's dollar menu skidding on your tongue,... More >>
Cosmo Cosmos
The Cosmopolitan Bistro has some redeeming qualities
, May 12, 2005
As we exited The Cosmopolitan Bistro one Saturday evening, a manager chased us out to the curb and stuffed our fists with a stack of bright gold... More >>
Sweet Nothings Sweet Nothings
With no guiding principle, the food wanders at Dolce Oliva
, May 05, 2005
The olive dominates. It's a persistent cartoon, a huge green oval impaled by a skewer, slipping through the orifice in the red "O" in Dolce... More >>
Fearless  in Mesquite Fearless in Mesquite
Skip the suburban chains and head to Kamikaze Japanese Cuisine
, April 28, 2005
Sushi in Mesquite shouldn't be an oddity. Raw fish on rice billets is as mainstream as Vatican smoke gazing. Yet it is. What's the best-selling... More >>
Remember the Main Remember the Main
62 Main has a wood-burning oven, and they're not afraid to use it
, April 21, 2005
It's not surprising that David McMillan is not intimidated by altitude. His first Dallas stint put him 27 stories up in the sky in the Wyndham... More >>
Little Havoc Little Havoc
Little Havana will drive you to drink
, April 14, 2005
"Nothing here is spicy." This declaration from a Little Havana server, after a question on the heat level of the beef tips, is perhaps... More >>
Schizville
Jaden's restaurant works, except when it doesn't, which is often
, April 07, 2005
There are two great things about Jaden's: The restaurant's Web site does not use the words "hip" and "urban." It doesn't use "trendy" or "chic"... More >>
Go Dog Go Go Dog Go
Taste's urban bistro has bite and bark
, March 31, 2005
Urban bistro. It's a familiar culinary idiom, but what does it mean? Maybe Paris. Paris is urban. They love bistros in Paris, where the word... More >>
Sons of Eagles Sons of Eagles
The Berisha brothers satisfy with Leo's Italian Cuisine
, March 24, 2005
Albania. Where's that? It's not a country most Americans--let alone Dallas residents--have much familiarity with, and for good reason. Locked... More >>
French Movement French Movement
Watel's changes slowly as interest in French food wanes
, March 17, 2005
Like a pair of tectonic plates, itching to lurch forward but frozen into place by geological procrastination, Watel's changes little before... More >>
Eclectic Boogaloo Eclectic Boogaloo
At Tutto Eclectic Italian, the menu doesn't fail to seduce, but the food falls flat on delivery
, March 10, 2005
His business card is simple: Chef Joseph. His trajectory is not. He trained at La Gastronome in the Basque region of France and Spain. He... More >>
TV Dinner TV Dinner
At You-Chun Korean Restaurant, the menu is tiny, but the flavor is big
, March 03, 2005
Every once in a while a dining experience is of such a piece that the food is almost beside the point; you're just content to revel in reality... More >>
Steak Again? Sheesh. Steak Again? Sheesh.
Rick Stein's does steak right--as if we care
, February 24, 2005
Whither steak? Haven't we had enough already? Are any arteries left in North Texas that don't proudly wear the badge of sclerosis crimp? Is there... More >>
Call a Doctor Call a Doctor
East meets West--and it doesn't go over very well when it comes to food
, February 17, 2005
An Open Appeal to Dr. Robert Rey: You may find this hard to believe, but before last week I had never heard of you. I had no idea you were one... More >>
Baring All Baring All
Time will tell if Daniele Osteria will leave its mark on Italian dining in Dallas
, February 10, 2005
Italian stares at us perpetually, teasing with promise. It draws us with its sassy Latin vibrato and Ferrari-like lust with hints of... More >>
Ain't Got That Swing Ain't Got That Swing
Noodleswing Thai Cafe aims for the fence--and misses
, February 03, 2005
Here's a twist: accidentally stumbling into the restaurant business and finding love. Usually the love comes first, spawned by the illusion of... More >>
Plain Good Plain Good
Hector's on Henderson puts all its glitz on the plate
, January 27, 2005
Out there in the cyber yards there's a place called slick.com (political satire at its best!), a repository of assorted detritus and tripe.... More >>
Nuts Nuts
There's no artistry in the sushi at Sushi Sapporo
, January 20, 2005
The sushi bar is serpentine. It also has an interesting endpoint set piece: a waterwheel. Yet the most fascinating element in this Japanese... More >>
Grecian Formula Grecian Formula
After a decade, Ziziki's still going strong
, January 13, 2005
What can you say about Greek food? It's hard to say, because there is so much to say. People tend to forget that Alexander the Great, well before... More >>
Hitting the Mark Hitting the Mark
Visit the Landmark and give credit where it's due
, January 06, 2005
The Landmark Restaurant has been in the Melrose Hotel for a long time, so it's easy for it to tumble out of your dining awareness. Perhaps you... More >>
Dining Tyranny Dining Tyranny
Are we choosing ourselves crazy?
, December 30, 2004
Over on Travis Street, a man wearing a sandwich board stands on the sidewalk in front of Samba Room. He advertises dollar sushi and sake. This is... More >>
Playing Dress-Up Playing Dress-Up
Chaucer's digs at Mockingbird Station are stunning--too bad the food isn't
, December 23, 2004
Chaucer's is what happens when investors have lots of money and space on their hands. You'd never know it from the outside, though. A few metal... More >>
Disney Chicken Disney Chicken
Grand Lux Cafe is tasteful like Vegas
, December 16, 2004
You can hear it, if you listen closely enough. Not the din of chitchat hanging in the high ceiling caverns like a thick blanket of smog, not the... More >>
Eating a Life Eating a Life
With George Restaurant's austere environs, the food is even more alluring
, December 09, 2004
"Food is life." Promo materials for George Restaurant attribute the above quotation to George Brown, the lauded Dallas chef who just opened his... More >>
Waterworld Waterworld
Cafe Pacific may not resemble San Francisco much, but it's still pretty good
, December 02, 2004
Café Pacific is a cliché. This is heresy. Shuffle into this bosom of Highland Park culture (Highland Park Village) and blurt such a thing, and... More >>
Purring Gears Purring Gears
The upscale casual Houston's is a well-oiled machine
, November 25, 2004
Take a quick walk through the museum-like produce wing of Central Market and you will notice a frightening thing: brussels sprouts. The terror... More >>
Risotto Fix Risotto Fix
Taverna may be loud, but its menu is silent lucidity
, November 18, 2004
Taverna is ear-piercing. This is odd, because thought has been given to sound. While Taverna has a concrete floor, it has cloth-covered baffles... More >>
Daddy, Help! Daddy, Help!
Big Daddy's Grill House is good, but bring a defibrillator
, November 11, 2004
CONFIDENTIAL COMMUNIQUE TO: Stent Industry Shareholders and Venture Capitalists FROM: Stent Manufacturers Association of America President... More >>
Mouth Jump Mouth Jump
What's in a name? At Saltimbocca's!, it's the best dish on the menu.
, November 04, 2004
Saltimbocca's! is billed as a bistro. A bistro is a small cafe, usually serving down-to-earth food and wine. But let's look a little further: The... More >>
Ancestral Glaze Ancestral Glaze
The aging diva L'Ancestral needs an infusion
, October 28, 2004
L'Ancestral is an icon, a dignified one. It's among the first slices of French to braise its way onto the Dallas landscape without the excessive... More >>
Fast 'n Curryious Fast 'n Curryious
At Cafe Roti, fast food speeds to a higher life form
, October 21, 2004
Maybe the prognosticators were right, those who said the next great wave in restaurant trends is Indian fast food. This is counterintuitive on... More >>
Pair o' Dice Pair o' Dice
If this restaurant is really heavenly, then let's go commit some sin
, October 07, 2004
Paradise means different things to different people. To some, it might mean grains of white sand speckling the lime slices in your umbrella... More >>
Gill Kill Gill Kill
At Little Katana, you can buy a sword for $800. What? Or is it why?
, September 30, 2004
Think of Little Katana as the Dallas version of a city hot-dog cart. You've seen them in some urban locales: steam tables on wheels with potato... More >>
Marking Time Marking Time
Figaro Cafe keeps us waiting...and waiting
, September 23, 2004
Figaro Café was Le Paris Bistrot for several years. It tanked. Owner Jean Michel Sakouhi blames it on the freedom fries syndrome: the point in... More >>
Pie in the Sky Pie in the Sky
Fireside has the best pizza in Dallas--and possibly the Southwest
, September 16, 2004
Water. Maybe it's a myth that the secret to great pizza is water. Dallas has notoriously bad water. It's so hard you could break your nose... More >>
Bookwormed Bookwormed
Guthrie's has a great cookbook collection. Too bad they're on the shelf.
, September 09, 2004
William Guthrie is a collector: books, utensils, antiques, family photographs. Much of his trove peppers his restaurant, Guthrie's. Guthrie says... More >>
A Bug or Two A Bug or Two
Ama Lur has bold ambitions, but the results are mostly mediocre
, September 02, 2004
What's astounding about the Gaylord Texan Resort is this: no bugs. Not a single gnat, fly, ant, earwig or pill bug milling about the stone... More >>
Tight Quarters Tight Quarters
Saffron Room offers an intimate setting and a satisfying menu
, August 26, 2004
Saffron Room is soaked in amber. This is not surprising, given the luxuriously ruddy-yellow spice from which it takes its name. What is... More >>
Legal Eats Legal Eats
Savory is a neighborhood restaurant without pretensions
, August 19, 2004
A Savory warning was delivered not long ago. The warning was this: Savory's menu will change shortly, and when that happens you won't be able to... More >>
Hip Hugger Hip Hugger
Stolik is too cool for its own good
, August 12, 2004
Stolik means "little table" in Czech. The name is brilliantly captured on the menu: a tiny, crude, hand-stamped ink impression of a table,... More >>
Tracking Steak Tracking Steak
Gaylord Texan's steak house is worth the trek, if you can find it
, August 05, 2004
Old Hickory sommelier Darryl Beeson, a pro who has carved an impressive vine furrow through greater Dallas with stops at The French Room, The... More >>
Get Uppity Get Uppity
Newest Sambuca not too shabby
, July 29, 2004
Employing Buddha to drive nightclub adrenaline is odd when you think about it. There are bars named after this enlightened fellow (here there was... More >>
Prickly Seat Prickly Seat
A taste of civic pride doesn't make up for Iron Cactus' shortcomings
, July 22, 2004
Iron Cactus is the kind of place you reflexively rally around if you have even the tiniest traces of civic pride in your veins. Iron Cactus is... More >>
Dare Call It Prime Dare Call It Prime
The fare is disappointing at this upper-end steak house
, July 15, 2004
G.F. Prime Steakhouse is excited about prime. A quick perusal of the menu confirms this. G.F. Prime has prime starters. G.F. Prime has prime... More >>
Zilch Zilch
Zolon is a little rough around the edges
, July 08, 2004
The aroma of wood burning grills. The light bouncing from brightly colored glass. An atmosphere that's both warm and sleek. A memorable... More >>
Heathen Eating Heathen Eating
Mimo's Tex-Mex lacks flavor
, July 01, 2004
Not far from the bass-boat-riven waters of Lake Ray Hubbard is Heath. Heath is a town of roads that curl and hog-leg through a sprawl of open... More >>
Velvet Boot Velvet Boot
Il Mulino gives Dallas Italian a kick
, June 24, 2004
Il Mulino is the General George S. Patton of restaurants. Not because it is violently audacious or prances through Palermo and Messina--although... More >>
Comfort Loaf Comfort Loaf
Crayton's gives you a reason to go out for meat loaf. That's right,meat loaf.
, June 17, 2004
This is what former New York Times food editor Raymond Sokolov has to say about meat loaf: Meat loaf...is a kind of joke. In fact, I can think... More >>
Trying Times Trying Times
Kyoto rises from the wreckage on the shores of Lake Ray Hubbard
, June 10, 2004
It used to be the Lighthouse Supper Club. The Lighthouse was a restaurant and bar on the shores of Lake Ray Hubbard. It aspired to be an old San... More >>
Suburban Slickers Suburban Slickers
In the big sky of Southlake, there's a couple of good restaurants
, June 03, 2004
Southlake has a big sky. There doesn't seem to be much of a lake if you don't count the water hazards at Timarron Country Club. And it isn't... More >>
Pac Rim Rumba Pac Rim Rumba
Fusion weds Asian and Tex-Mex and creates a happy marriage
, May 27, 2004
Fusion, whether it's in musical, culinary or thermonuclear idioms, is a tedious term. It's a sigh stimulant, a drowse inducer, a word that was... More >>
Avant-Gorge Avant-Gorge
Cafe Modern is a comfortable respite from modern art
, May 20, 2004
It's like Oz's wizard before the curtain is pulled: This picture, anchored at the end of a foggy-gray arching hallway, is a huge head glowing... More >>
Man, Myth and Shots Man, Myth and Shots
With more than 85 varieties of tequila at Agave Azul, who cares thatthe food is good, too?
, May 13, 2004
"I consider myself a tequila connoisseur," says Agave Azul founder Zotico Reyes. "It's the spirit of Mexico...the myth of it, the taste itself."... More >>
From Russia, With Borscht From Russia, With Borscht
Taste of Europe is a treasure that requires digging
, May 06, 2004
It's disconcerting to stroll into a shabby diner and be confronted by a Soviet military uniform near the kitchen. Disconcerting and, somehow,... More >>
Roll Riddles Roll Riddles
Cafe Miso needs to find its focus
, April 29, 2004
There has never been a more cumbersome union than the matrimony between municipalities and sushi rolls. Yet the latter spread with bunny-like... More >>
Don't Ka-nock It Don't Ka-nock It
Fast-casual German is a novel idea
, April 22, 2004
"Are you a G.I.?" asks the woman behind the counter after an order is put in for Rhine River's currywurst. Currywurst is knackwurst with a mild... More >>
Bury Frank Already Bury Frank Already
Blade's needs an update
, April 15, 2004
Here's an experience worth its weight in foie gras: gnawing on bloody-as-hell steak in a garishly masculine steak house and not hearing a single... More >>
Bang a Gong Bang a Gong
Music is a must on the menu at Django
, April 08, 2004
There are two ways to digest Django on the Parkway: with music or without music. Django must be consumed this way because Django entwines two... More >>
Dial Tone Deaf Dial Tone Deaf
Rino's Ristorante isn't worth the trip
, April 01, 2004
Convenience is the crack of modern culture. It's why the remote is the power metaphor of the tract castle and the mobile phone has displaced... More >>
Taste of Whimsy Taste of Whimsy
Mignon chef puts a twist on the classic
, March 25, 2004
New York magazine proclaimed it the new hanger. Is this a compliment? Hard to tell, especially when you consider ancestry. The hanger steak, a... More >>
Indian Lite Indian Lite
Mantra twists the mold of traditional Indian fare
, March 18, 2004
In the auto industry, dipping into the past for design cues has become a mania. Examples form a long string of oval headlights and fenders... More >>
Road Chew Road Chew
For the most part, this Tucker stays on track
, March 11, 2004
Cars and dining go together like Botox and TV news anchors. Whole restaurant segments and a rash of clever inventions have been spawned from the... More >>
Asch Wipe Asch Wipe
You will like Elephant Bar, whether you like it or not
, March 04, 2004
In a February article in the online magazine Slate, Columbia University Professor Duncan Watts exhumed the work of the late Princeton social... More >>
Where's the Boot? Where's the Boot?
Vino & Basso needs to merge its split personality
, February 26, 2004
Forty-nine hundred McKinney Avenue has always had an identity problem. Does it really want to be Italian? Or more accurately, will we let it be... More >>
Wit on a Stick Wit on a Stick
In the shallow pool of Dallas nightclubs, Spike gets deep
, February 19, 2004
Spike is a dwelling of odd contrasts, ones so striking that it's a good bet they were unintentional, which makes them all the more delicious. On... More >>
Them Bones Them Bones
Shanghai's menu is full of the typical--and the atypical
, February 12, 2004
The main concern was bones. Carp bones. Scrolling down the prolific menu at Shanghai Restaurant (brief menus and fortune cookies never appear at... More >>
Lighten Up Lighten Up
Tres Méridas offers a sensible form of global fusion
, February 05, 2004
It's hard to dine in a blur. Eating in a buzz is easy, and it's not impossible to feed in a fluster. Chewing in a din can be annoying. But dining... More >>
Fished Out Fished Out
Samurai Japanese Cuisine & Sushi Bar is just a little fishy
, January 29, 2004
Ten years ago Mediterraneo slipped into the ground level of a bank building in the farthest northern reaches of Dallas. My first visit was in... More >>
Happy Wanderer Happy Wanderer
Avner Samuel gets the creative juices flowing with Aurora
, January 22, 2004
Erraticism is underrated. Pathological restlessness isn't a character flaw; it's a gift, maybe even a mark of genius. Take the late Seymour Cray,... More >>
Puddy Good Puddy Good
Oishii is a culinary adventure
, January 15, 2004
On the second visit we ended up next to the same car we slipped alongside on the first trip: a red Plymouth Sundance with Tweety Bird slip covers... More >>
Out Back Out Back
Jasper's revels in the new age of backyard cuisine
, January 08, 2004
No municipality on earth is a better locale for a restaurant pushing backyard cuisine than Plano, bedroom community to the world. But what... More >>
Vice Grip Vice Grip
In Dallas restaurants, 2003 was all about smoke. The future may be all about hooch.
, January 01, 2004
It was the year of smoke. So many Dallas restaurant landmarks went up in the stuff in 2003, and so many Pall Malls and Partagas Churchills... More >>
Hip Hop Hip Hop
Naan wants to bring "edgy" to Plano
, December 25, 2003
What is hip? Like a cube of lime Jell-O, hipness is hard to grasp without making a mess. Yet everybody craves this elusiveness, so much so they... More >>
In Bloom In Bloom
Though it's named after a dog, Iris is no mutt
, December 18, 2003
It sounds easy, but operating a successful neighborhood restaurant is tough: ingratiating yourself with a cadre of regulars, serving decent food,... More >>
Fountain Float Fountain Float
Nandina makes a splash with Asian-style tapas
, December 11, 2003
Flowing water is said to provoke soothing meditation, especially among those with feng shui (the art of furnishing a room to harmonize with its... More >>
Fish Play Fish Play
McCormick & Schmick's has great shucks, no jive
, December 04, 2003
McCormick & Schmick's used to be a toy store: FAO Schwarz, that ages-old chain purveyor of toddler titillation. FAO was bled into anemia by... More >>
Glad to  Meet You Glad to Meet You
Gingko Tree offers Chinese fare at its best
, November 27, 2003
"Hi, my name is Arthur King. I'm one of the owners of Gingko Tree China Bistro in Flower Mound. We have been open since May 24, and we are very... More >>
The Real Thing The Real Thing
Fake it at Sushi@Manhattan's
, November 20, 2003
Everywhere there are the fakes, the counterfeits, the phonies. They make their way to our wrists (my Rolex impersonation suffered band failure,... More >>
Wharf Arf Wharf Arf
The Wharf @ Bayview Marina floats and sinks
, November 13, 2003
Many things float: dead fish, wine corks, Ivory soap, Enron limited partnerships. Sometimes restaurants float, too--in Texas, no less. That's the... More >>
Curing Rubaphobia Curing Rubaphobia
Experience Lazlo's "infectious spirit"
, November 06, 2003
Why is Continental cuisine so hard to kill off? Like badly cropped sideburns, it's ugly. It tastes like an overachieving Swanson TV dinner might... More >>
Tasty Tasty
It's a mixed-up world, but not at Lola
, October 30, 2003
Perhaps Lola owner Van Roberts operates on a different plane, maybe the kind derived from a salad where the porcinis are subbed with magic... More >>
Faux Nosh Faux Nosh
At least the food's not fake at Josephine's
, October 23, 2003
One of the inverted glass bowl chandeliers hanging from the ceiling is busted. Not blemished like a chipped tooth, but damaged like a hockey... More >>
Funny Valentino's Funny Valentino's
It's Chinese food with a wink at this Oak Cliff restaurant
, October 16, 2003
Comic Jackie Mason once asked: "Jewish civilization is 6,000 years old, and Chinese civilization is 4,000 years old. So where did Jews eat on... More >>
New Standard New Standard
Deep Ellum eatery masters "hang-time food"
, October 09, 2003
There's a virus infecting Deep Ellum. Not the mosquito-borne kind--this is a restaurant virus, one of temperance, sobriety and restraint.... More >>
Hot House Hot House
The Saffron House gets the gist but falters on the details
, October 02, 2003
Saffron is the Bentley of the spice rack. The golden, rich and pungent powder rendered from the threadlike stigmas of the flowering crocus is the... More >>
Eddie's Red Adventure
Eddie Merlot's is a cliché with elegance
, September 18, 2003
Like chardonnay, merlot is a wine that is simultaneously subjected to derision and gushing plaudits. While the masses lap it up, those with... More >>
In the Drink In the Drink
My Martini drips wine on the parched prairie
, September 11, 2003
My first taste of North Texas was a nibble of Arlington. I was staying in a tract home in a neighborhood with far too many tricycles and... More >>
Civics Lesson Civics Lesson
After a few changes, there are more reasons to become a citizen
, September 04, 2003
When Citizen opened roughly four years ago, its mix of neo-Asian fusion with a traditional sushi bar threw off so much heat that it was nearly... More >>
The Twain Meet The Twain Meet
Waka puts a new twist on Japanese cuisine
, August 21, 2003
There's no sushi bar here. (But there is sushi.) There's counter seating equipped with an expansive view of the square open kitchen. It's like... More >>
Drip Dry Drip Dry
Mi Piaci is a still-fresh classic
, August 14, 2003
Great things can disappear in an instant as some momentous burp rattles mankind and alters the face of history. Pompeii, a town southeast of... More >>
Shrunken Head Shrunken Head
Closed by fire, Royal Tokyo re-emerges in a new, improved version
, August 07, 2003
Royal Tokyo is a piece of history, forged on griddles and refined over seaweed strips, that reaches its crowning summit on a slab of creamy beef.... More >>
Cosmopolitan Reach Cosmopolitan Reach
Local is a slice of culinary dazzle
, July 31, 2003
Tracy Miller and Alice Cottrell believe their restaurant is haunted. They've heard stories from construction workers, toiling well into the wee... More >>
Thai Sigh Thai Sigh
Coppell's Siam Thai Cuisine is a dry run
, July 24, 2003
Some of us have peculiar habits. Some of us suffer under peculiar rules. Abstaining from wine with dinner is a peculiar habit. Dry is a peculiar... More >>
Hubbard Mother Hubbard Mother
Bahama Beach Club is Baja-crazy
, July 17, 2003
It covers some 22,745 acres, but its maximum depth is just 40 feet. Normal water clarity is murky, even turbid. Yet Lake Ray Hubbard is regarded... More >>
Better Off Red Better Off Red
Rouge is taking baby steps
, July 10, 2003
Joseph Gutierriz's inauguration into the kitchen was spiritual. And short. At age 5, he was shipped off to seminary where he learned to cook for... More >>
Sad Tail Sad Tail
Bradley's is one turf that doesn't surf
, July 03, 2003
It's always an iffy proposition to wander into a dining room as desolate as a godforsaken rock formation. Sure, it could be an undiscovered... More >>
Smooth Rough Ride Smooth Rough Ride
Rough Creek Lodge has a lot to offer--and there's good food, too
, June 26, 2003
Our range guide was a veteran of the first Gulf War, so it wasn't hard to steer the conversation to the lingering mysteries of the sequel.... More >>
Beef Brawl Beef Brawl
The beef is good, but other things are better at Smith & Wollensky
, June 19, 2003
At the heart of Smith & Wollensky is this slogan: "A steak house to end all arguments." This comes clipped from a headline over a 1997 New York... More >>
Urban Turban Urban Turban
Colleyville eatery strikes a pose
, June 12, 2003
Right now, it's a ghost town. Not one born of death and abandonment, but of birth and anticipated growth. There are a few things: a children's... More >>
Bomb Shelter Bomb Shelter
You can have an Atomic time at this West End sushi joint
, June 05, 2003
He pulls it out from a manila folder stuffed with other old photographs. "This is me," says sushi evangelist Scott Melton, pointing to one of... More >>
Take Me to the River Take Me to the River
Thai is tough to master, but River Spice makes a good showing
, May 29, 2003
There are three of them in Dallas. Thai is one. Indian is another. And Italian. OK, there's Chinese, but that's an easy one to decipher: no... More >>
Tasty Diplomacy Tasty Diplomacy
The buffet table sings at Dawat
, May 22, 2003
The first set arrived at our table riddled with little pockets of grease. Pools, really, shimmering gold, some shallow, some preposterously deep.... More >>
Rough Landing Rough Landing
You'll need to make a couple of laps around Osaka's buffet table
, May 15, 2003
It's rare that you see buffet spreads this enormous outside of places where slot bells provide the background music. But Osaka Steak & Grill's... More >>
Barrel  of Style Barrel of Style
Hope springs for Mercy
, May 08, 2003
Wine bars and Dallas don't mix well, at least not as seamlessly as silicone and trial lawyers. A sweep through Dallas' wine-bar... More >>
On the Money
Into the Glass is right on target
, May 08, 2003
Southlake is one of those formerly odd communities that had restrictive liquor laws. Now that they've been relaxed, some entrepreneurs are taking... More >>
Hee-haw Hee-haw
It's a big fat Greek life at Opa!
, May 01, 2003
At first, veteran restaurateur Charlie Venis says Opa! is the Greek equivalent expression of hee-haw. "Well," he corrects, "what it really means... More >>
Browse & Nosh
Have a shopping lunch at Café Danielle
, May 01, 2003
Eat at Café Danielle and you're forced to shop, or at least urged to browse. The space is divided into settings that come across like tradeshow... More >>
Tiki Tacky Tiki Tacky
Tiki Bob's is hanging on by a vine
, April 24, 2003
Authenticity is hard to acquire. The acquisition is especially difficult when the object of desire is a series of lush tropical volcanic bumps... More >>
Camp Ernie Camp Ernie
Do the time warp at Ernie's of Dallas
, April 17, 2003
Ernie's is a trip. But to where? Is it a trip back to a Dean Martin-Charo roast skit where the main attractions bob like anchovy-stuffed buoys in... More >>
Bawdy Romp Bawdy Romp
Chaucer and sushi--a match made in...well, somewhere
, April 10, 2003
Restaurant concept development is difficult for diners to comprehend. People like Phil Romano appear to function solely from gut instinct... More >>
Tough Sledding Tough Sledding
Rosebud is far from a work of genius
, April 03, 2003
Orson Welles has managed to resuscitate his badly decomposed reputation and promise from the grave. Since etching himself in our collective... More >>
Operation Florida Freedom Operation Florida Freedom
Papa wouldn't be proud of the Florida Seafood Grill
, March 27, 2003
Ernest Hemingway cut his adventurer's teeth as a teen-age Red Cross ambulance driver in Italy during World War I. The cut went deep. Just six... More >>
Nautical Garble Nautical Garble
J. Pier explores the nautical side of Terrell
, March 20, 2003
Restaurants burst from lots of divergent structures: old houses, offices, warehouses, dry cleaners, even factories. Sometimes the theme of the... More >>
King's Ransom King's Ransom
The pricey Drálion toys with the hunter in you
, March 13, 2003
Myths and legends are scattered with hybrids. They're designed to frighten, fill with awe and serve as jobs programs for cinematic special... More >>
Of Flies and Damsels Of Flies and Damsels
Dragonfly works to avoid the bug zapper
, March 06, 2003
It's hard to arouse taste buds in a restaurant named after a bug, especially a large prehistoric specimen that incessantly engorges itself with... More >>
Street Feed Street Feed
Houston Street's "creative American" fare has a lot of potential
, February 27, 2003
It's hard to believe this downtown street-level dining room was once a seafood restaurant hailed by Esquire magazine as one of the nation's best.... More >>
Red Glare Red Glare
If nothing else, Nikita is hip and happening--at least for now
, February 20, 2003
Red glamour is baffling. The restaurant Citizen sports a portrait of Chairman Mao, that lovable Chinese leader whose four-year orgy of... More >>
Funky Quarters
Inwood Quarter Café mixes the seedy with the charming
, February 20, 2003
Chef David Burdett and Cameron Morris have been around for a while, creating little catering hybrids founded on comfort food with upscale... More >>
Tuned In Tuned In
M Grill & Tap plugs in and turns on
, February 13, 2003
Like virtually every Dallas restaurant that doesn't deploy a platoon of white-coated servers who can say "excellent choice, sir" in 14 different... More >>
Noodles Unleashed Noodles Unleashed
Liberty grows up
, February 06, 2003
Though it was conceptually groundbreaking as it ushered in a fusion of tastes from Thailand, Korea, China, Laos, Malaysia, Vietnam and India... More >>
Cheap Panache
Urbano Paninoteca is a fast-food vacation
, February 06, 2003
Almost everything that can be done has been done to the sandwich, an innovation named after the fourth Earl of Sandwich from the town of... More >>
Details, Details Details, Details
Clay Pit squeezes in near the top of Dallas Indian fare
, January 30, 2003
Indian food has had a tough time here. The land of steaks as thick as phone books and spuds the size of VW Beetles is inhospitable to cuisine... More >>
Bold Fish Bold Fish
Chef Chris Svalesen perseveres with 36 Degrees
, January 23, 2003
The really profound thing about 36 Degrees, longtime Dallas chef Chris Svalesen's newest venture, is the appropriateness of the name. Not simply... More >>
Beer Bust Beer Bust
It's better to come to BJ's with a thirst than an appetite
, January 16, 2003
Brewpubs have had a hard row in Dallas. When a measure passed the Texas Legislature in 1993 permitting the brewing and sale of beer at the same... More >>
Big Fish Big Fish
The Oceanaire Seafood Room is a "power steak house with a seafood center"
, January 09, 2003
The numbers are startling, but maybe it's only because of where we live. Judging by our contemporary fetishes of steak palaces, prime beef, Kobe... More >>
Big Death Big Death
Fading flashiness marked the year in Dallas dining
, January 02, 2003
In August, Voltaire closed. And that pretty much sums up the Dallas restaurant complexion for 2002. Voltaire's death rattle served as a worn... More >>
Above and Beyond Above and Beyond
The food is the star at Daxx
, December 26, 2002
Why do the munchies that are served with belts of booze have to possess culinary panache? They don't, or maybe shouldn't. After all, such craft... More >>
Not Our Thing
There's drama at Café Nostra, but it's not on the menu
, December 26, 2002
There's a lot of indignant rant in the culture these days over the knee-jerk, Glock-click tendency of many of us to associate anything Italian... More >>
Bump in the Road Bump in the Road
You'll be drinking faster than you eat at Wahoo Grill & Cantina
, December 19, 2002
Like the burger and onion ring, Tex-Mex has become a tavern staple, and it's no surprise why. It's salty, which generates the thirst that... More >>
Seeing Red
Green Pepper touches on fare from Japan to Vietnam
, December 19, 2002
Like most contemporary Asian outlets, Green Pepper is replete with high-tech touches, subtle though they are. Plastic chairs in black and yellow... More >>
Hoochie Koo Hibachi Hoochie Koo Hibachi
Allen restaurant pairs sushi with rock and roll
, December 12, 2002
Hibachi Rock's vestibule is crammed with Japanese dolls, and Polaroids paper the wall. A manager says these photos were shot some three years ago... More >>
Boo-boo Boo-boo
The presentation is inventive at Bamboo Bamboo, but looks aren't everything
, December 05, 2002
When Voltaire opened in 1999, it was billed as one of the most expensive restaurants ever devised in the city of Dallas. Owner Scott Ginsburg... More >>
Horton Heard What? Horton Heard What?
Find out Who's Who at Romano's latest venture
, November 28, 2002
Not everything Phil Romano touches turns to gold. We Oui slipped off the landscape on a trail of French kitsch greased with red lipstick. Lobster... More >>
Noodle Doodle
Noodles Kitchen is high on ambition but short on detail
, November 28, 2002
The name Noodles Kitchen is a jarring composite of a plural and singular noun. It sounds more like a culinary lair for a Dick Tracy nemesis than... More >>
Copycat Copycat
Check out the wine program at Sonoma, but you should probably eat before you go
, November 21, 2002
It's no surprise that a North Texas bedroom community would turn a California fascination into a viable business. After all, California is the... More >>
Blah Blah Blah Blah Blah Blah
The patrons aren't the only stumblers at Sherlock's pub and grill
, November 14, 2002
Pub is a word derived from the term "public house," which is "an establishment licensed to sell alcoholic drinks for consumption on the premises... More >>
Fish Not Foul Fish Not Foul
Shannon Wynne scores with downscale seafood at Flying Fish
, November 07, 2002
Shannon Wynne, reformed night crawler extraordinaire and founder of such long-gone nightclubs as Fast and Cool and the "o" haunts (Nostromo,... More >>
Beer Me
Duke's Original Road House will drive you to drink
, November 07, 2002
There's a prominent sign on the wall in the rest room foyer at Duke's Original Road House. "Coming soon," it reads, "brand new, bigger, better... More >>
Kernel Flips Kernel Flips
Zaguán fare is cheesy and corny--and that's a good thing
, October 31, 2002
According to the cafe's menu, a Zaguán "is the elaborate entry-passage in the grand old colonial homes of Venezuela, Spain and Colombia." This... More >>
Holy Hole
Flamin' Papaya is hard to find but easy to enjoy
, October 31, 2002
"Hole in the wall" is a sort of dining Holy Grail; the object of a fervent quest for hidden culinary riches dressed up like a Hee Haw extra. Like... More >>
Look at Her Look at Her
Buy a map, find Little Elm and head to Café C. Your belly will thank you.
, October 24, 2002
"Miss America ate here." This is a swell publicity claim for any restaurant, especially one planted among the sticks in a tiny town named for an... More >>
Stayin' Alive Stayin' Alive
Avanti Ristorante survives the McKinney Avenue curse
, October 17, 2002
At this point on the dining timeline, Avanti Ristorante is perhaps better known for its longevity than its food. After all, more than a handful... More >>
Mud Stuck Mud Stuck
Mud Bugs needs some of that old black magic--or at least a better cook
, October 10, 2002
Not long ago, Mud Bugs Cajun Café was known as the House of Voodoo, but the name was jettisoned swiftly, not long after it opened. You could see... More >>
Italian Sleeper
Venezia is a downscale cafe with an upscale touch
, October 10, 2002
Venezia is a slice of institutional cafeteria ambiance done up in Italian red and green, with a heavy emphasis on the green. It has a counter up... More >>
Weathered Wrangler Weathered Wrangler
Reata offers up its version of cowboy culture
, October 03, 2002
A tornado abruptly changed the course for Reata, the popular Fort Worth "cowboy cuisine" restaurant. In March 2000, the furious whirl ripped... More >>
Go Go Go Go
Tom Tom could be the force that prompts noodle-house glory in Dallas
, September 19, 2002
The noodle house was supposed to conquer the Dallas restaurant front, dotting it with shanties of twisting and slurping instead of fortresses of... More >>
Alphabite Alphabite
There's everything from bull's-eyes to wild tosses at restaurant "a"
, September 12, 2002
It's hard to know when exactly you've come upon "a." The sign says Abbotsford Court, a special-events facility, an indication that you're about... More >>
Something to Crow About Something to Crow About
Rooster serves up some lively dishes--and lots of corn relish, too
, September 05, 2002
The Eskimo Cookbook has the following instructions for boiled owl: Take the feathers off. Clean owl and put in cooking pot with lots of water.... More >>
Cool Cucumber Cool Cucumber
On Harry Hines, sea cucumbers and watermelon help an unlikely revolution at Chef Hsu
, August 29, 2002
There aren't many places around Dallas where you can eat a sea cucumber family-style. Heck, there probably aren't many places outside of... More >>
Taking It Downtown Taking It Downtown
The Metropolitan could give Dallas some much-needed vitality
, August 22, 2002
It's easy to imagine The Metropolitan on any corner in downtown Boston or Chicago. Unlike most Dallas restaurants parked in strip malls,... More >>
Penne Earned Penne Earned
Alberto Lombardi's latest eatery is everything a neighborhood could hope for
, August 15, 2002
If Alberto Lombardi possesses one quality, it's persistence, gobs of it. He took a huge gamble on McKinney Avenue, installing Bizú, that natty... More >>
Bar Bore
Crú is corked in the wine-bar department
, August 15, 2002
For once I wish someone in Dallas would create a wine bar that follows the syntax of the billing and puts the "wine" before the "bar." More often... More >>
Bob Hoofs North Bob Hoofs North
The Plano version of Bob's Steak and Chophouse stays true to form--mysterious carrot and all
, August 08, 2002
Even in Plano, everything about Bob's is exaggerated, from the endless mahogany wood paneling to the near-golf-ball-sized jelly beans kept in a... More >>
Raw Clone Raw Clone
Sushi Kyoto II does its namesake proud
, August 01, 2002
It's pointless to point out how sushi restaurants have proliferated in the Dallas area over the past few years. It's not a trend anymore. It's a... More >>
Water Dance
Euphoria dishes up marine life to lounge lizards
, August 01, 2002
Tanked fish are often a default dining room décor item in the restaurant biz; a living bauble with a maintenance contract that fills the void... More >>
Grape Lift Grape Lift
When it comes to food, Marty's Bistro is game--and its vino is primo
, July 25, 2002
Caviar is the lusty ghost hovering around Marty's Bistro, the full-service restaurant that grew out of the 59-year-old wine and gourmet food... More >>
Down-home Down-home
Café Italia hits some rough spots, but it just might have some potential buried under the bumps
, July 18, 2002
Italian cuisine has had a rough row to hoe in Dallas. Either it's mostly mediocre, or it's so expensive that it's hard to digest more than on a... More >>
Beau Nosh Beau Nosh
This Crescent Court eatery offers up food with flair, but who's manning the sound system?
, July 11, 2002
Beau Nash is a Crescent Court bauble, a patinated little room enclosed in glass and attached to a stylish bar planked with marble and squirted... More >>
Empire Strikes Back Empire Strikes Back
This modest bar and grill dishes out good food with culinary glitter
, July 04, 2002
For a while, it was kingfish. The Dallas Morning News drooled. D magazine ogled. Esquire magazine named it the best seafood restaurant in the... More >>
On the Rocks On the Rocks
Geode's menu hits a few bumps
, June 27, 2002
Geode is a restaurant I wanted to like. It's got guts and lineage, after all. The interior is clean and crisp, with modifications that only... More >>
Bib Rustle Bib Rustle
At Lobster Ranch, the main course claws its way to the top
, June 20, 2002
There's a sight at Lobster Ranch I can't seem to get out of my head. It's in the lobster tank, which is behind a display case where other live... More >>
Frenchie Flash Frenchie Flash
Loosen up and enjoy the ride at Paris Vendôme
, June 13, 2002
You wonder how long it can last. It's tempting to put bets on it. But Paris Vendôme is a scene--a scene in a way that only Dallas can... More >>
Thomas by Numbers Thomas by Numbers
You can almost smell the character at 2900--and that's a good thing
, June 06, 2002
It feels like an old neighborhood nightclub in an aging industrial city or maybe New York, one hollowed out of the ground like a gopher den. The... More >>
Fishing Trip Fishing Trip
The excellent 9 Fish is worth the trek to Frisco
, May 30, 2002
9 Fish is difficult. Not because the food isn't good--it's great--but because this esoteric restaurant is so infuriatingly remote, hidden deep in... More >>
The Babe's Back The Babe's Back
Nana gets a makeover
, May 23, 2002
The brothel burgundy that drenched everything--including the sagging velvet curtains--has been stripped away. The acoustical ceiling has been... More >>
Kitchen Prism Kitchen Prism
Food is art at Mirabelle
, May 16, 2002
Chef Joseph Maher insists the color that drenches his North Dallas restaurant is not orange. "Actually, it's papaya," he corrects. "Papaya is my... More >>
Planet Hawaii Planet Hawaii
Roy's holds the cheese and does Hawaiian with style
, May 09, 2002
It's difficult to approach a restaurant transplant like Roy's with a whole lot of hope and without a whole lot of suspicion. From the press kit,... More >>
Dinner in a Pinch Dinner in a Pinch
It's hard to fill in the gaps at Lalibela
, May 02, 2002
What's not to like about Ethiopian cuisine? It takes on different attractive personas, registering searing intensity (with jalapeño peppers and... More >>
Monk Spunk
The Old Monk is mostly about beer, but its mussels aren't bad either
, May 02, 2002
The interior of The Old Monk is outfitted in woods of varying degrees of wear and significance. Tables come in diverse shapes: from rectangular... More >>
French 101 French 101
Le Rendezvous offers a respite from the flashy and the fancy
, April 25, 2002
Chef Jean La Font says he doesn't fiddle much with the food at Le Rendezvous. He eschews twists and mergings. He shrugs off plate landscapes... More >>
Underground Lunch Underground Lunch
Noodle Nexus offers a decent meal at a cheap price
, April 18, 2002
It's futile eating spaghetti with chopsticks. The procedure might seem doable at first. After all, there are countless examples of Asian noodles... More >>
Rough Road
Noodles Ave. is a trip through Asian fast food with a few bumps along the way
, April 18, 2002
Noodles Ave. has a slightly ratty feel to it. Not that this counter-order-deliver-by-number-table-service is actually a ragamuffin dressed up in... More >>
Belly-up Belly-up
Greenville Bar & Grill lets you eat like a king
, April 11, 2002
Greenville Bar & Grill owner Terri Russo recoils when it's suggested that her refurbished old bar (established in 1933) borders on upscale. Yet... More >>
Nice Spice Nice Spice
Spice Thai Cuisine has trouble living up to its name
, April 04, 2002
It's always risky hunting down Asian restaurants in strip malls. Either they're bad, or more often, they're so mind-numbingly inoffensive that... More >>
Lovely 'Rita
The neat, clean Margarita Ranch needs to let loose a little
, April 04, 2002
Margarita Ranch serves margaritas in more weird incarnations than congressmen come in. You can have them prepped with any tequila you want from a... More >>
Lights Out Lights Out
The food at Bistro Latino rises above the darkness
, March 28, 2002
Bistro Latino is a cave. The long narrow space is a hostel of darkness and a bungalow of noise. The dense carpet of diner gibberish and the... More >>
Goof Coast Goof Coast
Deep Ellum seafood restaurant can't figure itself out
, March 21, 2002
It's hard to get a sense of what The Gulf Coast is trying to be. Maybe it's a consignment store that serves free étouffée with the purchase of... More >>
Bow Thai Bow Thai
The food at Banana Leaf is pretty tasty--and it looks good, too
, March 14, 2002
Thai restaurants in Dallas generally fall into two categories: mediocre and great. There isn't space between the two designations to accommodate... More >>
Asian Bowling
The fast-casual kid sibling of P.F. Chang's makes a good showing
, March 14, 2002
Pei Wei (pronounced pay way) Asian Diner is a restaurant based on a fictitious Chinese chef. The menu says the young Pei Wei used to go to bed... More >>
Wild Blue Wild Blue
Blue Mesa dazzles with unexpected flourishes
, March 07, 2002
More fascinating than the food and the thirst-quenching, electric-blue margaritas are the architecture and interior design at Blue Mesa. Both--at... More >>
Bam Buddha Bam Buddha
The enlightened one makes his presence known at Bali Bar
, February 28, 2002
It was originally dubbed Buddha Bar, and the name was intended to signify a sense of serenity, a mode of contemplation, an evocation of... More >>
Culinary U.N.
A little focus could give Stratos a boost
, February 28, 2002
It's hard to figure out exactly what Stratos is. The word sounds Greek, but it isn't a Greek restaurant. The menu is packed with sushi, but it... More >>
Food Foolery Food Foolery
Shenanigans' sleight of hand is all thumbs
, February 21, 2002
"It's better to look good than to feel good." The adage works in most social settings and perhaps the occasional funeral. The inverse works for... More >>
Tent Chic Tent Chic
Tabouli's found a gimmick, and it works
, February 14, 2002
On the surface, the most compelling reason to dine at Tabouli's, a restaurant serving Middle Eastern fare, is the tent room. And if you dig... More >>
Billy Goat
Lincoln County Grill a little light on flavor
, February 14, 2002
Though born in New York, Billy the Kid was a New Mexico outlaw doing most of his treachery (he had been charged with 12 murders by the time he... More >>
That '70s Meal That '70s Meal
Fondue makes a comeback at The Melting Pot
, February 07, 2002
Fondue is dangerous. The special forks are long and sharp with rippled tips that function almost like fishhook barbs, though not as effectively.... More >>
Noteworthy Noteworthy
Take a good look. Perry's isn't your typical steakhouse.
, January 31, 2002
In many ways, Perry's is just another steakhouse. The steakhouse formula has been perfected for so long in the Dallas restaurant crucible that it... More >>
Skunky Bud Skunky Bud
If the Scented Geranium doesn't work out some of its kinks, it may soon be a memory
, January 24, 2002
Scented Geranium suffers from an affliction that strikes restaurateuring neophytes and veterans alike: culinary inconsistency. Granted, getting... More >>
Okra Shock Okra Shock
Gumbo's grub could be addicting
, January 17, 2002
Norman Abdallah says it's narcotic. He says it more than once during a short conversation, so it must be something he really believes. He has... More >>
Zzzzz Zzzzz
Order the coffee black; you'll need it at the dull Z'Tejas Southwestern Grill
, January 10, 2002
Left in the hands of suit types, cuisine often fuses, blurs and finally melts into a stain on a spreadsheet, homogenized beyond recognition. At... More >>
Party's Over Party's Over
Dallas restaurateurs weather a year of many valleys, few peaks
, January 03, 2002
If there was ever a year that bulged with ups and downs, ebb and flow, mood swings and yin-yang fluxes, 2001 is that year. Only instead of a... More >>
Awash in Suds Awash in Suds
Beer's the word at Trinity Hall
, December 27, 2001
Just as bachelor cooking makes liberal use of ketchup and fire, Irish cooking makes liberal use of beer. Certain foods are simmered or soaked in... More >>
Oscar-Caliber Nosh
Angelika Café offers scrumptious screen bites
, December 27, 2001
Movies are for popcorn, lots of yellow-oiled, oversalted puffed kernels in a bucket the size of a Freightliner with a side tank of Coke. And some... More >>
Well Done Well Done
Steak the most promising of restaurateur's endeavors
, December 20, 2001
It's been said that if you took all the broiled steaks served in Dallas restaurants on any given day and laid them end to end, you would have... More >>
Pot Melt Pot Melt
Ethniko swimming in mediocre waters
, December 13, 2001
If anyone has earned the right to label his craft "all peoples' cuisine" (a proletarian twist on the tired "global fusion"), it is Avner Samuel.... More >>
Born to Run Born to Run
Ferré could add a little kick to the Dallas restaurant scene
, December 06, 2001
Not long ago, an article in The Wall Street Journal pronounced the era of dressing down for work dead. Uptight-and-starched was slowly creeping... More >>
Ersatz Italian Ersatz Italian
Timpano calls itself Italian, but that's just a lot of mortadella
, November 29, 2001
What the film Pulp Fiction is to tersely cogent dialogue, Big Night is to food. Big food. Great food. Food assembled with painstaking and... More >>
Good to Go Good to Go
Café Venezuela lives up to its not-so-bold claims
, November 22, 2001
One of the most fascinating bits of Venezuelan trivia floating in cyberspace concerns ice cream. It seems an ice cream parlor in Merida, a... More >>
On Your Honor
Big Shuckson is bargain seafood camp that has as many fresh and tasty finds as it has pitfalls
, November 22, 2001
Big Shucks is a shack of torture. Not only do they make you stand in line to order food and beverages at the counter, they force you to remember... More >>
Heavy Metal Nosh Heavy Metal Nosh
The Mercury stands tall above its food court neighbors
, November 15, 2001
Perhaps the modern measure of a city's evolution, its maturity, its spastic lunges into sophistication, is the distinctiveness of its shopping... More >>
Luminous Feast Luminous Feast
Sitar Indian Cuisine doesn't quite pull off the balancing act of tandoori cooking
, November 08, 2001
Often, but not always, Indian food assumes the shades of warning signs and traffic cones. At Sitar Indian Cuisine, it's the tandoori dishes that... More >>
Half-Cocked Half-Cocked
Half Shells Seafood Grill
, November 01, 2001
Damn. It's frustrating to discover a restaurant's signature dish spelled out on the front of the menu after you've trolled through a half-dozen... More >>
We'll Be Back We'll Be Back
Though its name may be clichéd, Pasta La Vista's food isn't
, October 25, 2001
It's hard eating pasta with rippled Arnold's thick Austrian accent warping "hasta la vista, baby" through your head. It's hard to focus on the... More >>
Big Apple Bite
Pastazios Pizza works out the big kinks in Dallas pizza
, October 25, 2001
Pastazios bills itself as a parlor steeped in New York breeding. The menu boasts authentic Big Apple pies. The inside of the restaurant, dressed... More >>
Mongo Fury Mongo Fury
Don't let Mongo Man scare you away from BD's Mongolian Barbecue
, October 18, 2001
Mongo Man is a 9-foot "warrior mascot" who has the thankless job of traveling around to the various restaurants in the BD's Mongolian Barbecue... More >>
Sweet Leaf Sweet Leaf
The Bay Leaf has plenty of personality
, October 11, 2001
The Bay Leaf could easily be just another one of those dark, strenuously hip Deep Ellum joints fashioned out of aging warehouse brick and smoky... More >>
Endurance Test
Arthur's has had more than its share of restaurant trials
, October 04, 2001
It's hard to not think of Arthur's as an icon of perseverance amid the unforgiving brutality of the Dallas restaurant scene. Owner Mohsen... More >>
Ripened Kiss Ripened Kiss
There are only a few rough spots at Chez Gerard
, September 27, 2001
Chez Gerard is a crotchety old cottage born some 17 years ago on McKinney Avenue at a time when French cuisine spelled sophistication. The... More >>
Of Feedlots and Fisheries Of Feedlots and Fisheries
Richard Chamberlain puts smiles on the mouths of both fish and meat fans
, September 13, 2001
Richard Chamberlain is the type of food pro who has a history studded with jewels. Starting with proletariat food training at El Centro College,... More >>
Naked Buddha Naked Buddha
Fishbowl-zen den is a lot less clever than it thinks
, September 06, 2001
Zen den is a big deal. On a Monday evening when it isn't even open for dining, a manager escorts groups of people through the passageway into... More >>
Run, Don't Walk Run, Don't Walk
York St.'s Sharon Hage should consider calling Lloyd's of London
, August 30, 2001
It didn't take more than a couple of bites before dining at York St. got me thinking about Lloyd's of London. Lloyd's, founded in 1680, is the... More >>
Good Sports Good Sports
McKinney Avenue Tavern scores big points for its sports bar grub
, August 23, 2001
It wasn't too long ago that Frankie Carabetta was set to operate a McKinney Avenue sports bar with his name on it. That was when Tracie... More >>
A Slice of Queens
Rocco's serves up some much needed pie along McKinney Avenue
, August 23, 2001
That Rocco's was once Highland Park Cleaners is not hard to imagine. This tiny hut could have been little else, save for a hotdog stand or one... More >>
Suburban Showbiz Suburban Showbiz
People from "way up north" can find a taste of the exotic at Japon
, August 16, 2001
It's funny how people in Dallas refer to everything north of LBJ as some kind of untamed wilderness. They call it "way up north," or "Oklahoma,"... More >>
Shoal Shocked Shoal Shocked
The Lighthouse doesn't quite work
, August 09, 2001
It's not hard to stare across the turbid ripples of Lake Ray Hubbard and imagine romance. Lake Ray Hubbard spans 22,745 acres, so it looks like... More >>
Big Bore Big Bore
Big Bowl just needs a little order
, August 02, 2001
Sometimes Big Bowl isn't big enough to fit all of the corn flakes that want to get in. Sometimes, maybe most of the time, they give you one of... More >>
More Bang for Your 'Burb More Bang for Your 'Burb
Legacy Grill offers a reason to say, "Let's go to Frisco."
, July 26, 2001
If you're a member of Dallas' mildly xenophobic and snooty downtown demimonde, then the last thing you ever say when fishing for something to do... More >>
Good Planning Good Planning
Trevi's has a lot going for it
, July 19, 2001
I like Las Colinas. Some may think it sterile and static, but these are the shallow ones. How could you not love a 12,000-acre master-planned... More >>
Something to Brag About Something to Brag About
The Tipperary Inn gets a makeover
, July 12, 2001
Grand fusses are often made of restaurant makeovers. It doesn't matter if improvements are little more than a splash of fresh paint and a... More >>
Bebop Pabulum Bebop Pabulum
Sambuca has all the requirements of a jazz club
, July 05, 2001
Sambuca is dark and narrow. This apparently is a requirement of jazz clubs. Jazz clubs must also be sultry, smoky and have the smell of stale... More >>
Stylish Survivor Stylish Survivor
The Riviera may be tired, but the staff isn't
, June 28, 2001
It's been going strong in Dallas since its inception in 1984. After 17 years of critical acclaim--and a kitchen run at various times by chefs... More >>
Ten-Gallon Lasagna Ten-Gallon Lasagna
Italian Cowboy's fare ranges from good, to bad, to ugly.
, June 21, 2001
Sunday is the big day at Italian Cowboy, a sort of steak and pasta dojo dressed in operatic cowboy gear. On the Sabbath, Italian Cowboy holds... More >>
Latin Homestyle Latin Homestyle
La Duni Café serves up comfort food from down south ... way, way down south
, June 14, 2001
Felton is a tiny town in California's Santa Cruz Mountains, right in the thick of the redwoods. There's little there to attract visitors except... More >>
Hurricane Warning Hurricane Warning
There's more to like about the Hurricane Grill than just the 45-ounce hurricanes
, June 07, 2001
"Some individuals may have an allergic reaction to shellfish," the Hurricane Grill menu warns. "The Hurricane is not responsible." So puff up,... More >>
The Whole Boot The Whole Boot
Eccolo rises from the asphalt
, May 31, 2001
That spot on McKinney Avenue and Monticello, the one that sizzled and popped with Dallas couture before someone pulled the plug on the... More >>
Second Coming Second Coming
Patrick Esquerré offers some sinful delights at ungodly prices
, May 24, 2001
Patrick Esquerré compares himself to God. Not in a megalomaniacal way but in an almost self-deprecating sense. Back in 1983, Esquerré... More >>
Double Vision Double Vision
It's hard to make a mistake when choosing between Arcodoro or Pomodoro
, May 17, 2001
Arcodoro & Pomodoro is really little more than a Sardinian set of Siamese twins that provides elegant fine dining and casual but lustful... More >>
Go West for Wine Go West for Wine
There are plenty of surprises at Sapristi!
, May 10, 2001
Sapristi! is Italian slang for surprise, or something like that. But what surprised me at this bistro and wine bar were the posters hanging on... More >>
City Slick City Slick
City Café isn't sitting on its heels
, May 03, 2001
City Café is one of those Dallas institutions that is perpetually in danger of laurel-resting, of desperately clinging to the vigor for which it... More >>
Trite Tongue Trite Tongue
Where the bold can French-kiss a cow
, April 26, 2001
Puffs of acrid smoke plume from Teppo's yakatori grill, a narrow metal cookery box covered with a bent and loose mesh grate. If you're seated at... More >>
Middle-Class Italian Middle-Class Italian
A circular drive and fountains aren't the only amusements at Ruggeri's new digs
, April 19, 2001
It isn't hard to see why Tom Ruggeri sought to move his 15-year-old restaurant from the nook on Routh Street and Cedar Springs to across the... More >>
Steak God Bob
Thoroughly masculine
, April 12, 2001
Somewhere in the dark corridors, behind the wood paneling, beyond the rows of mirrors framed in wood or brass, Bob's Steak and Chop House must... More >>
Let's Talk Fish Let's Talk Fish
You might find yourself starting a conversation with the decorations at Sea Grill
, April 05, 2001
It looks like a stage-prop fish market instead of something designed to dress up a restaurant. One whole corner of the bar at Sea Grill is a... More >>
Unalloyed Success Unalloyed Success
Despite its moniker, Steel is surprisingly warm
, March 29, 2001
Steel is the super-hard result of a hellish fusion of iron with carbon. It's a curious name for a restaurant that seeks to stand out from the... More >>
Mixed Blessings Mixed Blessings
Just like mainstream Christianity, The Abbey Café sometimes embraces a disruptive duality
, March 22, 2001
Somehow, it's incongruous to call a place serving American bulk cuisine levitated with Southwestern brushes The Abbey Texas Café. After all,... More >>
Tarnished Silver
Disparity finds a home at The Silver Room
, March 22, 2001
The word that invades the mind after visiting The Silver Room is disparity--or maybe it's dissonance. This dynamic starts with the room itself,... More >>
Suze Does Suze Does
It's all about romance
, March 15, 2001
If there is one thing Suze is about, it's romance. Not the frilly, why-does- everything-smell- like-a- lady's-underwear- drawer kind of romance,... More >>
Scratch Shot Scratch Shot
Banquet-hall chic
, March 08, 2001
Carson's Palace is literally a megaplex: a huge adult entertainment game room with enough television screens (between 28 and 32, depending on... More >>
On the Rack On the Rack
Racks Restaurant and Bar
, March 01, 2001
You gotta love a dish that includes wet naps as dessert. Ribs are that kind of food, one that permits decent, churchgoing folks such as... More >>
Standard Gear Standard Gear
Over the years, little has changed at Gershwin's
, February 22, 2001
Perhaps the best thing to do when visiting Gershwin's is have a drink. Actually, this is the best thing to do when visiting any restaurant, but... More >>
Tub Steak Tub Steak
The Keg Steakhouse invites you to come-as-you-are.
, February 15, 2001
You must admit, it's an odd name for a steakhouse. Steakhouses are more apt to tout their hangar-sized wine cellars and rosters of fine red... More >>
Dry Spell Dry Spell
At Piccola Italia, the only hooch is in the rigatoni.
, February 08, 2001
Over the last few years, millions have been marching to Washington and other places for a variety of reasons, swarming the Mall and pestering the... More >>
Killer Fish
Put some of this delicious fish in your jaws.
, February 08, 2001
One of the cool elements of the Paul Draper design in Lombardi Mare, besides the ice blues, the etched glass, and the swordfish heads jutting out... More >>
The Way of All Flesh The Way of All Flesh
Heaven for meat-on-a-stick lovers
, February 01, 2001
Eating at a churrascaria is eating by wandering around. Or at least having many people wander around and pester you with weapons while you try to... More >>
Easy Sell Easy Sell
Ajiya Sushi & Grill
, January 25, 2001
Ajiya manager and sushi chef Ray Lin stands behind the sushi bar and slaps a flounder down onto the cutting board. It's an ugly fish, like a... More >>
Open This Door
Behind the door lies nearly flawless food
, January 25, 2001
The front door of Samui Thai Cuisine is a fascinating contraption. This is a good sign for a restaurant, because if the front door is compelling... More >>
French Kiss French Kiss
Paris in Plano
, January 18, 2001
Mignon postures as a Yankee's notion of Paris during the '60s: Audrey Hepburn, Catherine Deneuve, hip American jazz, and pill-bug Citrons that... More >>
Head East, er, North Head East, er, North
Rasoi Indian Restaurant
, January 11, 2001
Maybe I'm dim, but I recently found myself doing endless Central Expressway service-road laps--not to outrun the white Ford pickup I cut off... More >>
Inquiring Minds
India Palace Restaurant & Bar
, January 11, 2001
The best thing about India Palace, aside from some of the food, is that the press kit contains a sheet of "frequently asked questions," or FAQs... More >>
Code Red Code Red
Caribbean Red
, January 04, 2001
If there's one thing Caribbean Red does with exhausting ardor, it's play with its name, at least the latter part of it. Stroll into the place,... More >>
Playing Chicken Playing Chicken
Come boom or bust Dallasites gotta eat--out, that is
, December 28, 2000
Will it slump or bump? Will we be dining on caviar and burping through silk hankies, or chewing Velveeta sandwiches and picking our incisors with... More >>
Taco Star Taco Star
Taqueria Cañonita
, December 21, 2000
Taqueria Cañonita's publicity propaganda makes a lot of the fact that this superstar taqueria was hatched by Dallas star chef Stephan Pyles and... More >>
Room With a View Room With a View
Rear Window
, December 14, 2000
If nothing else, Rear Window is a view or, rather, a collection of little views tucked away in portals wrought into the interior architecture.... More >>
Serious Hole
Zúbar
, December 14, 2000
What does a daringly beautiful and sleek lounge do when it wants to evolve beyond watering-hole food? It sautés quail. We ordered Zúbar's sautéed... More >>
Brew With a View Brew With a View
Keep your eyes on your own show
, December 07, 2000
It's difficult to decide what to like best about Big Buck Brewery & Steakhouse. Is it the 360-degree jet-black audio speakers that look like... More >>
Waiting Is the Hardest Part Waiting Is the Hardest Part
Living off of chips and salsa
, November 30, 2000
Ten minutes since arrival. Chips. We are swimming in chips. Two large baskets. And it's taken 10 minutes to get these. They are crisp, well... More >>
Yippy Ky Yay
Darn close to the real thing
, November 30, 2000
One good thing about The Ranch House is that if it weren't for Interstate 30 just a few yards away and Lake Ray Hubbard (which is really just a... More >>
Urban Modesty Urban Modesty
Jeroboam has it all
, November 23, 2000
Whit Meyers says the last thing he wanted was a shiny new penny, and he didn't get it. Jeroboam, the new dining spot he and his partners in the... More >>
Hot Off The Grill Hot Off The Grill
Do-it-yourself dishes at Zen Mongo
, November 16, 2000
I'm assuming the thing that is so thrilling about opening a Mongolian grill is that it's dirt cheap to operate and has fat margins. There's a... More >>
Good Sport
Not your ordinary sports bar
, November 16, 2000
Frankie's Sports Bar and Grill is a typical picture-tube-studded suds dispenser with a pool table, a smattering of video games, a few gruff... More >>
Baja Humbug Baja Humbug
Mixed metaphors and confusing detours
, November 09, 2000
The interesting thing about Baja California Grill is that it was never meant to be named after that tendril of Mexican desert jutting out of the... More >>
Thango Tied Thango Tied
Tasty Thai now available in Flower Mound
, November 02, 2000
What's most surprising about Thai Tango is not the food, or the décor, or how snazzy the logo looks in lights illuminating its own little corner... More >>
Sugar and Spice Sugar and Spice
Sweet and stylish
, October 26, 2000
Sugarcane is rampant in Cuba. The primary agricultural commodity in that country has, over the years, pushed other vegetation out of existence.... More >>
Slammer Chow Slammer Chow
Prison food with a price
, October 19, 2000
A piece inserted into the trifold menu at The Prison in McKinney says that the circa-1880, three-story building was designed by architect F.E.... More >>
On Their Noodle On Their Noodle
Rice Boxx Asian Café
, October 12, 2000
Noodles are invading Dallas. Finally. Sort of. Since Liberty opened a couple of years ago, those in the know were expecting noodle houses--spots... More >>
Lu-ser, baby Lu-ser, baby
Jimmy Lu's shoots for the hip and misses
, October 05, 2000
t's hard to know what to make of Jimmy Lu's, so shrouded are its subtleties, so disguised are its flavors. Maybe disguised isn't the right word,... More >>
True Lies True Lies
Thai Bistro
, September 28, 2000
Thai Bistro's maxim is "a true dining experience"; at least that's what's italicized on the front of the menu. I'm not sure what a true dining... More >>
Soup's On
Village Grill
, September 28, 2000
It's like a corral or a Ponderosa steakhouse. At Village Grill, you walk through the door and are immediately channeled down a walkway, like... More >>
Eat at Joe's Eat at Joe's
Buca di Beppo
, September 14, 2000
Tacky misses the point. The outside of the restaurant is painted red, the kind of crimson that occurs when you leave tomato sauce on top of a... More >>
Payback time Payback time
Yokohama has sushi down cold
, September 07, 2000
Maybe eating raw fish and raw sea-critter eggs is extreme, or at least it used to be in Dallas before sushi restaurants started popping up on the... More >>
Sam Whoa
This Japanese-Korean hybrid fades faster than it's yellow tail
, September 07, 2000
The warning sign came in the form of a beige Melmac plate with a floral design nuzzling the edge. It was hard to look at the faded hamachi... More >>
Italian Surprise Italian Surprise
Raneri's does the Big I
, August 31, 2000
Spaghetti and meatballs. It's the stereotypical Italian dish, and it's ubiquitous. You can find it frozen, in cans made by chefs with names that... More >>
Greece is the Word Greece is the Word
Ziziki's does brunch better than most -- but is breakfast really Greek to you?
, August 24, 2000
Up north, where Coit performs thoroughfare intercourse with Arapaho, where dwarf trees are bred because shade trees would create a pool-clogging... More >>
Comfort Food
PoPoLos Café perfects the no-so-pretentious
, August 24, 2000
There's little that's special or notable about PoPoLos Café. And that's why it's so special. The food isn't particularly imaginative, but it's... More >>
Poo Poo Poo Poo
We Oui is a no-no
, August 17, 2000
The thing you don't want to do in a restaurant called We Oui is default to crass mode by playing double entendre with the name, especially in a... More >>
Pho Flop Pho Flop
Que Hong gets it wrong
, August 10, 2000
It's like an Indo-Chinese revolving door, that space. Back in 1996 it was Saigon Savor. Then it was Saigon Bistro. As Saigon Bistro is how I... More >>
Thali Ho
U(can)dipi into South Indian cuisine
, August 10, 2000
The slapping pitter-patter thump of the tabla is contemplative. It's soothing and eerie. And this is what they pipe through the sound system at... More >>
Meat market Meat market
Venus Steakhouse & Supper Club stocks it all
, August 03, 2000
It's Saturday night, and Shelly Dowdy is gliding across the floor of her restaurant in a tight-fitting gown that envelops her Rubenesque form... More >>
Finger food Finger food
Be a kid again and bring a bib to Ghion
, July 27, 2000
It's a hard thing, dining in an Ethiopian restaurant while armed only with cocktail napkins, because no matter how hard you try, sauce drippings... More >>
Sandwiched
Crammed in a downtown space, EuroTex Café passes the mustard
, July 27, 2000
EuroTex Café is a racquetball court of a restaurant that echoes with Elgar instead of slaps of spherical rubber. Trickles of sound bounce off the... More >>
Funny Valentina Funny Valentina
The food's OK, but the service leaves a bad taste in your mouth at La Valentina
, July 20, 2000
Cancun is a strange place. It's essentially a stretch of beautiful beach traumatized by canned recreational detritus. Hotels, shoehorned into... More >>
Grub trees Grub trees
Carrabba's Italian Grill sheds the chain stigma
, July 13, 2000
It's hard to gauge what kind of a mind would turn a restaurant rooftop into a forest. But Carrabba's Italian Grill has done it, transforming the... More >>
Nice Thai Nice Thai
Royal Spice Thai Bistro runs rings around the circle
, July 06, 2000
If there's anything that can be said about Addison Circle, that fabricated suburban urban village that sprang up like a tax shelter around a huge... More >>
Red, red whine
Red Onion Bistro is not so layered
, July 06, 2000
There's a banner outside of Red Onion Bistro in Denton making note of its "adventurous wine and beer list." This is like pulling up to a men's... More >>
More pixie dust, please More pixie dust, please
The Pegasus Room flies at low altitude
, June 29, 2000
You see the red horse everywhere, and not only on gas pumps. It's on buildings. In parks. In shopping malls. And now it's become a restaurant:... More >>
Strip seafood
Excellent is -- if you're just the average suburban diner
, June 29, 2000
Excellent Seafood & Grill is an exercise in suburban utility. It's Spartan, efficient, and loaded with functionality, the primary example being... More >>
Pyramid platitudes Pyramid platitudes
Pyramid Grill is good, in a dull way
, June 22, 2000
After tasting Pyramid Grill's steak tartare, a huge mound of milky pink pulp shaped like a loaf of rye bread, I began to wonder: Why does so much... More >>
Eurotrash pickup Eurotrash pickup
Avanti Euro Bistro proves that a little smarminess isn't all bad
, June 15, 2000
Avanti Euro Bistro owner Jack Ekhtiar describes his new restaurant in Addison Circle in a way that is wholly at odds with its appearance. He says... More >>
Wingless horsey Wingless horsey
The Pegasus is good food at a snail's pace
, June 08, 2000
If you want to give a restaurant a stress test in basics, go to dinner with a bunch of computer geeks, ones drooling with fickleness. That's what... More >>
Old war-horse Old war-horse
The Old Warsaw is sagging and limp
, June 01, 2000
Among the few things that are striking about The Old Warsaw, that stalwart fine-dining venue founded in 1949 by Polish diplomat Stanley Slawik,... More >>
Slam dunk Slam dunk
Pacific Rim's odd shots are nothing but net
, May 25, 2000
At first glance, Chow Thai Pacific Rim is far too exotic for the flat, concrete Plano landscape. But there it is, parked in a strip mall off the... More >>
Spanish inquisition Spanish inquisition
No one expects the food to be so poor at the Stoneleigh Hotel's new Seville
, May 18, 2000
Honchos at the Stoneleigh Hotel, onetime home of the classic continental room Ewald's and purveyor of some of the best sushi in Dallas, have... More >>
Fill 'er up Fill 'er up
ˇHola! provides a pitstop for tapas
, May 18, 2000
Many things have been crafted from old gas stations: coffee bars, topiary shops, car bra boutiques, bootleg 8-track dealers, galleries with fuzzy... More >>
Ten-gallon beret Ten-gallon beret
Charolais is a steak house with a French kiss
, May 11, 2000
Naming a restaurant after a breed of cattle might seem like a perfectly reasonable thing to do in Texas, the No. 1 state in cattle production.... More >>
Bite this Bite this
Mangia e Bevi has good little mouthfuls
, May 04, 2000
Bizú (which means little kiss in French) kissed off, and it's not hard to see why. Though the transformed McKinney Avenue space that was once the... More >>
Ciao, baby Ciao, baby
Marco Italian makes an "easy supper"
, May 04, 2000
One of my dining companions called Ciao Marco Italian "fast supper," a word play on fast food. Which is odd, because though the service is... More >>
Lo-lo-lo-lo-Lola Lo-lo-lo-lo-Lola
This place positively croons
, April 27, 2000
Much as I try, I can't seem to find a common thread between Volvos and haute cuisine. Volvos are austerely functional vehicles, hauling child... More >>
O'Dud's O'Dud's
O'Dowd's Little Dublin dresses well, but eats unkempt
, April 20, 2000
Dear Mr. O'Dowd: Right off the top I'll admit I don't know much about Irish food (is there a lot to know?). I'm German. And there's not a whole... More >>
In-out, in-out In-out, in-out
Your humble narrator finds a right good horrorshow at the Milkbar
, April 20, 2000
There was me -- that is, the Kraut -- and my zheena, and we sat in the Milkbar making up our rassoodocks about what pischcha to nibble on for the... More >>
Stumble  onto it Stumble onto it
Salve! proves Dallas can do Italian
, April 13, 2000
There's a guy in San Francisco named John Cunin who was the longtime maître d' at a place called Masa's before he decided to open his own place... More >>
Dressed to the nines Dressed to the nines
But Mondo's isn't quite a 10
, April 06, 2000
Time was that the 99-cent threshold for pricing was the sole domain of the grocery store, or at least it seemed that way. It's an old strategy.... More >>
Red fish, blew fish
Kampai Sushi leaves little to admire save the Addison "skyline"
, April 06, 2000
Kampai Sushi & Grill is a new restaurant on Addison Circle next to Antonio Ristorante and across from the just-opened Avanti Euro Bistro. But... More >>
City to city City to city
Ciudad quietly storms Dallas
, March 30, 2000
It's not surprising that a venue like Ciudad D.F. surfaced like a bubble on Dallas asphalt. What's surprising is that it has taken this long.... More >>
Return to blender Return to blender
Maritage's mix of flavors doesn't quite mesh
, March 23, 2000
Maritage is named after a wine category -- it's actually spelled Meritage -- created several years ago by an association of California... More >>
Southern discomfort
Ellington's ain't much, but it's better than tofu
, March 23, 2000
There are a few things that Ellington's doesn't get quite right. One of them is a statement in the restaurant's publicity blurb: "We like to... More >>
Sink or swim Sink or swim
Evolving Fish soars and flounders
, March 16, 2000
Fish has always been a funny fin. It could dazzle you with its scaled wonders, then turn around and disappoint you with a few beached blunders.... More >>
Chain links Chain links
Earl's is thin...
, March 09, 2000
It sounds more like a garage than a restaurant. From somewhere more like Toledo, Ohio, than Vancouver, B.C. A place that sends its management on... More >>
Chain links
...Chipotle is phat
, March 09, 2000
Right there, in a glass case just as you walk up to the counter at Chipotle Mexican Grill on McKinney Avenue is a T-shirt (for sale) with a... More >>
Dream food Dream food
Casa Del Lago is a comfortable sleepy vision
, March 02, 2000
Two days before Casa Del Lago opened in February 1999, chef-owner Hector Angeles was looking for something Italian to slip onto his menu, but he... More >>
A bowl with  a view A bowl with a view
Fishbowl is for peering. Eating isn't bad either.
, February 24, 2000
As a rescue effort, Fishbowl isn't bad. In fact, this retro lounge fitted from the stuck-up bar affixed to the Stephan Pyles and Michael Cox's... More >>
Ino, meanie, miney, moe
There's so much to choose from at this Japanese Bistro
, February 24, 2000
A shokado is a type of bento box, a high-sided black container divided into four equal compartments into which tiny portions of meticulously... More >>
TV dinners TV dinners
Swarna Palace plies good food and great tube
, February 17, 2000
"You speak Hindi?" asked our server. Our eyes were glued to the television screen. Our mouths were chewing bits of lamb samosa ($3.95), delicious... More >>
Peru without the view
Machu Picchu has a few unexpected discoveries -- if you dig in the places
, February 17, 2000
Machu Picchu is Dallas' first Peruvian restaurant. It's named for a mysterious ancient Inca town set on a spectacular precipice nearly 8,000 feet... More >>
Cold wind blows Cold wind blows
Tramontana gets some small tweaks. It needs bigger ones.
, February 10, 2000
Maybe this is an evolution of some sort, the kind where the mutations and variations creep at such a slow pace that you barely notice. But... More >>
Patio furniture Patio furniture
Lou's offers a room without a view
, February 03, 2000
Make no mistake. A captivating veranda is a big deal in Dallas, not something to be sniffed at or choked on in the wake of Mercedes Benz exhaust.... More >>
Zzzz ...
This Café needs to perk up the coffee
, February 03, 2000
It's hard not to like Z Café. Then again, like the sleepy forward coast of a comfortable marriage, it's hard to like it without working at it.... More >>
Grungy sipping Grungy sipping
Il Solé's menu rocks. Unfortunately, so does the sound system.
, January 27, 2000
Every now and then life hands you a perfect moment, one of those spaces of time when everything stops, turns beautifully epiphanic, and suddenly... More >>
Global lukewarming Global lukewarming
Las Colinas' Via Real promises heat but doesn't deliver
, January 20, 2000
It's hard to know what to make of Via Real, a restaurant that's been around for roughly 15 years, including 10 years in Las Colinas. But it sure... More >>
Who knew?
Thai Orchid is an oasis in chain-restaurant-riddled Addison
, January 20, 2000
Thai food in Dallas is typically lumbering and uninteresting. The sauces are flabby, the textures tired, the flavors muddled. In this city, Thai... More >>
Theme puke Theme puke
At Jekyll & Hyde Club, the actors act, the puppets howl, and the food...well, never mind
, January 13, 2000
It's hard to pinpoint the birth of the first chain theme or "eatertainment" restaurant. Was it Chuck E. Cheese or T.G.I. Friday's? Maybe it was... More >>
Applause, applause Applause, applause
Voltaire talks the talk and walks the walk
, January 06, 2000
Voltaire is verbose -- not the witty 18th-century writer and philosopher who penned Candide, but the restaurant dreamed up by radio mogul Scott... More >>
Eat these words Eat these words
The Dallas scene was everywhere -- and nowhere -- in 1999
, December 30, 1999
I'm swearing off restaurant prognostication. Other than accurately predicting that Chuck Norris' stogie lounge, Lone Wolf, symbolized the death... More >>
Uneven tread wear Uneven tread wear
Bibendum doesn't roll with the Samuel standard
, December 23, 1999
Maybe it's not surprising that gifted chef Avner Samuel, the man who single-handedly turned the word "peripatetic" into a cliché in Dallas,... More >>
Skipping by
Mango manages much more than most
, December 23, 1999
What makes Thai cuisine such a tongue festival is the electrical intensity of the flavors, the stark textural contrasts, and the laser-like... More >>
Ballsy dining Ballsy dining
Eating at Mel's on Main takes uncommon valor
, December 16, 1999
If you do one thing at Mel's on Main, go to the restroom. Not that you may have a choice in the matter, especially after plunging headfirst into... More >>
Lane straddling Lane straddling
Is Maguire's Regional Cuisine plain vanilla or provocative adventure?
, December 09, 1999
Back in the early '90s, Buick began a multimillion-dollar ad campaign to lure younger motorists into its fold of stodgy sedans. The bait was the... More >>
Swimming upstream Swimming upstream
Yumeya Sushi Bistro brings Japan to the 'burbs
, December 02, 1999
There were no sushi rolls on our table, and this drew attention. Well, maybe there was one: an untouched California roll stiffening on a small... More >>
Better fed than red Better fed than red
Citizen rises above its quirks -- sometimes
, November 25, 1999
I'm not sure I understand the thinking behind Citizen, the new preciously hip Asian restaurant launched by the M Crowd Restaurant Group, the same... More >>
Value added Value added
Abacus' total is greater than the sum of its parts
, November 18, 1999
Question one: Why Abacus? Why name a cutting-edge restaurant for an ancient calculator made of wood, wire, and beads? Longtime Dallas chef Kent... More >>
Off the mark Off the mark
Sometimes The Landmark misses
, November 11, 1999
It's Halloween weekend, and orange cones jut out of the Cedar Springs pavement like little fluorescent warheads peeking from their silos. The... More >>
Pricey quotes
Peeking into Ginsburg's multimillion-dollar Voltaire
, November 11, 1999
"The superfluous, a very necessary thing." -- Voltaire. Scott Ginsburg rejected an earnest request to bring a photographer. No pictures... More >>
Positively 12th Street Positively 12th Street
La Calle Doce conquers a new neighborhood
, November 04, 1999
In 1981, when Laura and Oscar Sanchez opened their Mexican restaurant in an old house on 12th Street in Oak Cliff, few people traveled to the... More >>
Fighting the Irish
It's not easy being green in Richardson, but Emerald Mist should try
, November 04, 1999
Emerald Mist seems little more than an Irish pub that's been homogenized and stuccoed; stuffed with burgers, Caesar salads, and pastas; and... More >>
Too cool Too cool
If only the warmth of Suze's restaurant could heat up its fine food
, October 28, 1999
One of the most successful dishes served at Susie Priore's restaurant Suze (it rhymes with ruse) was pilfered. "I stole it from this restaurant... More >>
Attitude adjustment Attitude adjustment
Star Canyon has replaced its smugness with smiles, and we're all the better for it
, October 21, 1999
Michael Cox is 40 years old, and that's hard to swallow. His face is full and smooth, his movements infected with adolescent bounce. He shows... More >>
Sins of the flesh Sins of the flesh
The Dallas version of Texas de Brazil is a heartbreaker -- literally
, October 14, 1999
Those swashbuckling servers briskly pacing Texas de Brazil's dining room with huge sword-like skewers and vicious knives may as well just pike... More >>
Not so Nuevo Leon
Third time's not the charm for the Dallas "Mex-Mex" institution
, October 14, 1999
If this third link in the Nuevo Leon troika is any indication, this "Mex-Mex" restaurant is getting a little tired. Fatigue first strikes with... More >>
Pow wow wow Pow wow wow
Tenaya cooks with forked tongue
, October 07, 1999
There's a seminal point reached in life's greatest endeavors -- art, sex, drinking Miller High Life -- where the experience is so profound, so... More >>
Countrified kitsch Countrified kitsch
Is Buttermilk an average café or an overpriced knickknack shop?
, September 30, 1999
Like everything in Dale Wamstad's "III Forks Territory," Buttermilk Café & Market is a puzzle. Is it a down-home country café pitching platters... More >>
Shutout
As an Italian Café, this sports bar fails to score
, September 30, 1999
Is Italian Café a contemporary hole-in-the-wall with red-and-white checked tablecloths serving superlative Italian grub, or is it a sports bar?... More >>
Paris, Texas Paris, Texas
Though sometimes pricey, Jean-Michel Sakouhi's new bistro fits Dallas to a T
, September 09, 1999
Jean-Michel Sakouhi leans against one of the murals in his new restaurant. He's wiry, with a relaxed demeanor that's rippled by seemingly nervous... More >>
Texas shtick Texas shtick
Love & War in Texas sounds more like a movie than a restaurant. Either way, it's an epic of indulgence.
, September 02, 1999
If there's anything Texans like to do it's revel in their history, jubilate in their provincialism, bask in their brashness. In short, they like... More >>
Spin city Spin city
Antares surprises with its twists and turns on the mundane
, August 19, 1999
It twirls around once every 55 minutes, like clockwork. And you can time your meal and thus the quality of service to its creeping revolutionary... More >>
Monument to an ego Monument to an ego
Why is multimillionaire Scott Ginsburg building one of the world's most expensive restaurants in Dallas? Because he can.
, August 12, 1999
Scott Ginsburg leans forward in the booth and tears a piece from the crisp white butcher paper covering the table. He has left his wallet in the... More >>
Thai me up, ... Thai me up, ...
Thai Chili offers heat
, August 12, 1999
Years ago, in faster times, my friends and I frequented a Thai restaurant on Chicago's North Side, a place I'll never forget, though I can't seem... More >>
... Thai me down
Thai Garden is totally lacking
, August 12, 1999
Thai Garden has a one strike against it from the outset: It doesn't have a liquor license. That makes it difficult to enjoy some dishes to their... More >>
Mix-ican food
Cabo tries to redefine taqueria
, August 05, 1999
What is it with all this term-twisting of x's in Mexican-inspired cuisine. I mean there's "Mex-Tex" and "Mex-Mex" and now, Cabo restaurant is... More >>
My secret garden My secret garden
Seoul Garden blooms
, July 29, 1999
For many non-Asians, there's little reason to plumb the tangle of strip stores and businesses brooding on Royal Lane as it threads past Harry... More >>
Zestless Italian Zestless Italian
Alfredo may have brought his two loves under one roof, but there's no passion in his pasta
, July 22, 1999
Good move. About a month ago, Alfredo Mirza, owner of a duo of clumsily monikered venues dubbed Alfredo's Italian Seafood Restaurant and... More >>
Starbucking
Terrefazione perks up the cafe set but skimps on sustenance
, July 22, 1999
Torrefazione Italia, located just in front of the pricey kitchen-accessory haunt Sur La Table, is a merchandise mart for the swanky caffeinated... More >>
Aiming low, hitting highs Aiming low, hitting highs
Bistral shoots for cheap casual and hits with taste
, July 15, 1999
It's easy to take potshots at corporate restaurants, those cookie-cutter cafés, brasseries, and bistros with homogeneous faux European menus... More >>
A Kiss Before Dining A Kiss Before Dining
Cheeky Green Room serves up high-class casual
, July 08, 1999
My most recent visit to the Green Room brought to mind an article I read in a restaurant magazine a couple of years ago about cheeks -- and not... More >>
Vortex's Tacos Tear a Path
And that's a good thing
, July 08, 1999
It takes a lot of guts to take an Air Stream trailer, stuff it with taco fillings, and call it Vortex Mex, especially given the proximity of... More >>
Strolling Illusions Strolling Illusions
Angels in the Park blesses with ambience rather than food
, July 01, 1999
Some restaurateurs must imagine the last thing the populace wants to do when it goes out to eat...is eat. Look at all of the counterfeit... More >>
It's not easy being green It's not easy being green
Green Papaya needs some seasoning
, June 24, 1999
There's latent lust in Dallas for exotica. You can smell it. No, not the over-processed, ultra-premium Velveeta kind that results in slick forays... More >>
Bad Wrap
Sandella's Café's sandwiches are as flat as the bread
, June 24, 1999
When I first peeled back the paper and got a good look at a Sandella's Café wrap, I thought it looked like one of those rolled sleeping mats you... More >>
Southwest jet set Southwest jet set
New Blue Mesa is cactus country with afterburners lit
, June 17, 1999
Tequila is jet fuel. One whiff of the stuff leaves little doubt. OK, carburetor cleaner. But this propellant-disguised-as-beverage sure acts like... More >>
Sushi slights
Everything rocks at Sushi Nights, except maybe the raw fish
, June 10, 1999
There was a fierce rainstorm, the kind that falls in relentless sheets. Only a handful of cars were in the Deep Ellum lot across the street--no... More >>
Hash Over
, June 10, 1999
Holben hops David Holben's position at FoodStar Restaurant Group (Mediterraneo, PoPoLos, Toscana) and The Riviera seemed as sure and... More >>
Close to perfect
Nick & Sam's is poised for greatness. Will it take the final step?
, June 03, 1999
My first trip to Nick & Sam's, Phil Romano (Macaroni Grill, Eatzi's) and Patrick Columbo's (Sfuzzi's) steak and seafood house on Maple, was... More >>
Hash Over
, June 03, 1999
Akins aching Los Akins admits to a burning itch to own his own restaurant. The former PoPoLos and Moonshine Cafe chef is holed up at... More >>
Hash Over
, May 27, 1999
Hot little beds What Dallas needs is little hotels. Cute hospitality fashion hunks with bellboys in eel-skin caps and desk girls with fishnets... More >>
Tin tongue
Tin Star's "salsa, smoke, and sizzle" fizzle
, May 27, 1999
Tin Star is bright and chic. Tin Star is simple. Tin Star has catchy theme: "salsa, smoke, and sizzle." Tin Star is cheap. But Tin Star... More >>
Face off
At the Palm, it's more about who's on the walls than what's on the plate
, May 20, 1999
I'm not really sure what all the fuss was about. But it all started with a printing error. Last summer, The Dallas Morning News did an article on... More >>
Going back to the well
Did Newport's fish its menu from a deep hole?
, May 06, 1999
Our server says that in the summertime waiters strip and dive in--plunge 35 or so feet into that dark, stagnant water hole that seems a portal to... More >>
Hash Over
, May 06, 1999
Woodward quits quad It's the stampede of the Stars. David Woodward, chef de cuisine at FoodStar Restaurant Group's Mediterraneo at the... More >>
Thin line between love and hate
Cork is a promising wine bar that's plugged its excitement for the drink
, April 29, 1999
I love Cork. Which is why I hate it. If Dallas has needed one thing for a long time, it's a no-frills, down-and-dirty wine bar. One that... More >>
Hash Over
, April 22, 1999
Of smokes & meat The spot on Cedar Springs and Carlisle has served as a rotating temple of vices over the past couple of years. First it was... More >>
Pub crawl
Dishing up a Cock & Bull story, with a touch of Blarney
, April 15, 1999
The pub is packed. Every tiny table is occupied. But just as we walk in, a spot opens by the window in the raised seating area to the left of the... More >>
Hash Over
, April 08, 1999
Eat Tibet free It's almost nauseating how the entertainment industry flaunts its benevolence when there's a chic cause to latch onto. Millions... More >>
Jazzy dining
Soho Food hits the right notes; Ocean Grill & Jazz blows cold
, April 01, 1999
You have to admit it. Owner Hamid Moallem did a hell of a job retrofitting his new restaurant into Soho Food, Drinks and Jazz. I remember when it... More >>
Hash Over
, April 01, 1999
Bistro bluster Ouch. Last week's review of The Bistro singed some nerves, and it wasn't my impressions of the food or service that inflamed... More >>
Who am I this time?
The Bistro inches through incremental evolution
, March 25, 1999
That little restaurant space with the burgundy awning near Lovers and Inwood has gone through some modest mutations over the years. In 1992, it... More >>
Hash Over
, March 18, 1999
Dragonfly flutters A Dallas County district judge slapped longtime Dallas nightclub operator Steve Kahn with a temporary injunction late last... More >>
Made to order
Sampling down-home cooking, European style
, March 11, 1999
"This is a German restaurant. You will have fun if you just follow orders." The guy who said this was on stage, dressed in lederhosen (leather... More >>
Hash Over
, March 11, 1999
Load of bull Sometimes a probe into the obtuse puzzle surrounding Dale Wamstad's III Forks steakhouse can get you more than you bargained... More >>
Mexican light
Taco Diner tries to marry subtlety with Tex-Mex -- somehow, it works
, February 25, 1999
"I say it looks like Sputnik," says one of my dining companions, sloshing a Modelo Especial in one of Taco Diner's stubby square tumblers. "No,... More >>
Hash Over
, February 25, 1999
Midnight snack "Mico" Rodriguez of the M Crowd Restaurant Group, operators of Mi Cocina, Taco Diner, The Mercury, and Mainstream Fish House,... More >>
Hash Over
, February 18, 1999
La Mirabelle woos suitors Chef-owner Francois Fotre is trolling for bidders on his upscale North Dallas French bistro La Mirabelle. No,... More >>
Hash Over
, February 11, 1999
Simon does Brash 25-year-old deal wizard Tristan Simon has been busy since he cashed out his managing partner position in Cool River Cafe, the... More >>
Say cheesy
The Cheesecake Factory aims to please everybody. Blah.
, February 11, 1999
Years back, I was in a country western/rock band that toured the nation's mid-section. This momentous opportunity came after long months in a... More >>
Hash Over
, January 28, 1999
Pomodoro/Arcodoro move? Rumors swirl that the owners of Pomodoro/ Arcodoro on Cedar Springs Road are attempting to work a deal to purchase a... More >>
Poor man's prime
Dunston's smokes out affordable steak
, January 28, 1999
I read a blurb recently in a Windy City magazine about actor Scott Jaeck. He was lovingly described as "movie star handsome" and "as wonderful... More >>
Hash Over
, January 21, 1999
Jensen goes barley Mark Jensen--onetime chef of the Thomas Avenue Beverage Company and the Green Elephant, and chef-owner of the now defunct... More >>
Oldie but goodie
Lawry's The Prime Rib: an old wrinkle ahead of its time
, January 21, 1999
Perusing all the splashy newspaper pix and verbiage gushing over the lineup at the 1999 Detroit Auto Show has been weird. It is, of course, an... More >>
Hash Over
, January 14, 1999
Okianos goes SoHo Opening this past weekend, Okianos, the Mediterranean seafood restaurant on Belt Line Road in Addison, emerged as SoHo Food,... More >>
Thai one on
Two strip-mall restaurants offer decent, basic Southeast Asian fare
, January 14, 1999
Living in Dallas, among shiny mirrored buildings, burgeoning mutual funds, and low unemployment, it's easy to lose global perspective. The... More >>
Bare-knuckle steak
Sullivan's isn't a knockout, but the points add up
, January 07, 1999
Just by their numbers and consistent rosters, steakhouses have inevitably become orgies of predictability. Everything is so much the same. No... More >>
Hash Over
, December 24, 1998
Bull rider Lisa Balliet, opening executive chef of Stephan Pyles' AquaKnox before her sudden departure early last year, has turned up in... More >>
Hash Over
, December 17, 1998
Star shuffle Star Concepts--the group Carlson Restaurants Worldwide created to absorb Star Canyon and AquaKnox after the T.G.I. Friday's... More >>
Swimming raw in Cowtown
Pangaea brings sushi and more to Fort Worth
, December 17, 1998
Pangaea has a beautiful fish tank lodged in one wall. Crowds of orange, purple, and striped cichlids (perchlike freshwater fish found in South... More >>
Hash Over
, December 10, 1998
Carrollton lights up Barely two weeks after the Dallas Environmental Health Commission held hearings exploring whether Dallas should toughen... More >>
Pig in a poke
With mostly tasty meat, Texas de Brazil stumbles over swine
, December 10, 1998
Disturbing news hit the papers the day after Thanksgiving. The hog market collapsed. "Hog Market Collapses on Glut of Animals," read one... More >>
Rawhide Italian
Antonio Ristorante revels in successful simplicity
, December 03, 1998
There are many reasons to love carpaccio. First, the word rolls off the tongue with such musicality, it's impossible to avoid a self-satisfied... More >>
Hash Over
, December 03, 1998
Old San Francisco Old San Francisco Steak House, the San Antonio based restaurant chain featuring the "girl in the red velvet swing" where a... More >>
Hash Over
, November 26, 1998
Restaurant crash? The Wall Street Journal recently reported that stock market fluctuations are sending shivers through the New York restaurant... More >>
Getting to the heart
Pappas Brothers is belly-full of old-fashioned decadence
, November 26, 1998
Dining at Pappas Brothers Steakhouse left a question weighing heavily on my mind: What the hell has happened to cholesterol levels, blood... More >>
Big glossies and big platters
Maggiano's is more photo finish than finished food
, November 12, 1998
I have a theory. The necessary evidence has not yet been assembled to prove it, but the more I dine out, the more the world seems to conform to... More >>
Hash Over
, November 05, 1998
Help wanted After six years as assistant general manager, Scott Shoenberger ended his stint with the Melrose Hotel, home of the Landmark... More >>
Rice brewhaha
The Blue Fish menusinks in a river of sake
, November 05, 1998
The Japanese lust for fugu, or puffer fish, is one of the most fascinating yet perplexing obsessions in the culinary universe. It's served thinly... More >>
Of men, meat, and money
Capital Grille lays it on thick
, October 29, 1998
A group of men was leaving through the thick, beveled glass doors--large, beef-eating men in casual business attire. They were grunting,... More >>
Hash Over
, October 29, 1998
Wamstad's big beef If you think III Forks owner Dale Wamstad--and his 257-year-old alter ego, Capt. Bob Cooper--is a little off his T-bone,... More >>
Full o' bull
III Forks knows what makes a steakhouse great
, October 15, 1998
There are at least five indicators that tell you a new restaurant is not just another place to eat, but a major seismic event: 1) you need a... More >>
Hash Over
, October 08, 1998
Nuevo Leon hits Oak Lawn Slipping into the Oak Lawn space that was most recently an offshoot of the Oak Cliff Italian restaurant Vitto, Nuevo... More >>
Hash Over
, October 01, 1998
Barking up the wrong stogie? Lone Wolf Lounge General Manager Bill Valentine, onetime general manager of 8.0 and Sambuca Restaurant in Deep... More >>
Swat it!
Dragonfly darts with a tedious buzz
, October 01, 1998
In one sense, Dragonfly Bar & Restaurant perfectly mimics its namesake. Like the insect, this lower Greenville haunt darts, ascends, turns... More >>
Hash Over
, September 17, 1998
Deli news Asher Investments, the partnership behind the successful Bistro A in Snider Plaza, is poised to launch a sandwich shop across the... More >>
Food play
Nana Grill's new chef toys with compelling flavors
, September 17, 1998
Nana Grill, the aging eatery perched atop the Wyndham Anatole, has a new chef: 25-year-old Doug Brown, a Culinary Institute of America grad and... More >>
I ate what?
Tei Tei Robata pushes the envelope on foodstuffs, and does it very well
, September 10, 1998
Tei Tei Robata bar drives home the point that virtually anything constructed from the building blocks of life can be used as food. It's... More >>
Hash Over
, September 03, 1998
Fairmont ponders Brasserie fate Though some conclude its demise is all but inevitable, Fairmont Hotel management dances when asked to confirm... More >>
Clawing for success
Tasty crab claws can't rescue Truluck's
, September 03, 1998
Stone crabs are colorful, hard-shelled beasts that come in precious Southwestern hues. The meat, though more fibrous and less delicate than that... More >>
Hash Over
, August 27, 1998
Mysterious new venture Though he won't disclose its location, ex-dani Foods Executive Chef Kent Rathbun says he, businessman Robert Hoffman,... More >>
Hash Over
, August 20, 1998
Texadelphia to blanket Texas Texadelphia operator Tom Landis says he has secured the rights to expand the Philly cheese-steak sandwich... More >>
Busting big shoes
Revamped Seventeen Seventeen may overfill its considerable footwear inheritance
, August 20, 1998
Jaco Pastorius, the late fretless electric bass player who revolutionized the instrument in the late '70s with the jazz ensemble Weather Report,... More >>
Hash Over
, August 13, 1998
Star Canyon to hit Vegas Dallas kitsch meets the paradigm of taste. Star Concepts Vice President Michael Cox says Star Canyon and the... More >>
Two out of three ain't bad
The beer and the company are great at the Tipperary Inn. Just stay away from the food.
, August 13, 1998
There's one thing you can say about the best in Irish cuisine: If you drink too much of it, you completely lose the ability to enunciate... More >>
Protein's protege
Unlike the calmness of Al Biernat the man, Biernat's the restaurant is a bit schizophrenic
, August 06, 1998
Al Biernat is a lot like Coca Cola, Disney, or General Electric. He's a rock-solid stock, the kind you might sink cash into if you had any hope... More >>
Hash Over
, August 06, 1998
Champagne shutters In the wake of collapsing food quality and a largely absentee chef, Champagne restaurant shut down its lunch and dinner... More >>
Hope sinks
Big Fish Little Fish's flavor doesn't match its wallet bite
, July 30, 1998
There's one thing you can say about Big Fish Little Fish, the new seafood boathouse on Henderson: It's got a great hook. It's cluttered with lots... More >>
Tuna surprise
A melding of menus breathes new life into PoPoLos
, July 23, 1998
A column appeared recently in The Wall Street Journal about the increasing tendency among writers and journalists to make full disclosures about... More >>
Hash Over
, July 16, 1998
Ocean Grill chef squeezed out Ocean Grill Executive Chef Willem De Froy, a founding chef of Sambuca, was forced out of the Plano seafood... More >>
Resurrecting diner grub
Maybe Guthrie's needs a seance
, July 16, 1998
Chef William Guthrie likes cookbooks. He maintains a hardcover collection with volumes dating back as far as 1796. Selected outcasts from his... More >>
Hash Over
, July 09, 1998
Cafe space resurrected After lying vacant for several months, the building that was once home to Coco Pazzo Cafe in Addison will open as a... More >>
Hash Over
, June 25, 1998
Luscher to exit Routh Street Prominent chef Brian C. Luscher will depart Routh Street Brewery July 15 to join Mike McMahan of Mac's Bar &... More >>
Four-point-oh
Bistro A scores straight, solid grades
, June 25, 1998
Funny things happen when people get on in years all flush and seasoned with life experience. Frivolous amusements lose their luster, and things... More >>
Good clean feed
Spotless Rigatoni offers ample helpings of fresh Italian food
, June 18, 1998
Rigatoni is one of those diamonds in the strip-mall rough--or at least a three-quarter carat zircon in a sea of mood rings. It's clean, crisp,... More >>
Hash Over
, June 18, 1998
Pay up Just two days after New York-based Toscorp closed Coco Pazzo on McKinney Avenue on May 29, a creditor asked a U.S. bankruptcy court to... More >>
Chinese slick
P.F. Chang's polishes Chinese fare with an American bistro veneer
, June 04, 1998
The first thing that will strike you about P.F. Chang's China Bistro is the interior. Unlike most Chinese restaurants, with standard-issue food... More >>
A fine mess
Hyper-casual Rockfish rocks
, May 28, 1998
The first thing you notice about Rockfish is the tin washtub of peanuts near the entrance with a sign inviting diners to grab a tin bucket and... More >>
Hash Over
, May 28, 1998
d5 McKintyre chef at Popolos Britton McKintyre, former chef at Sipango, will head-up the kitchen at Popolos, according to David Holben,... More >>
Hash Over
, May 14, 1998
Is the fog out yet? A rumor erupted earlier this week that Truluck's co-owner Steve Fields announced at a luncheon that the restaurant... More >>
Cheap vittles
Vitto doesn't hit the high notes, but it still hums
, May 07, 1998
Servers possess a sort of innocence when it's clear they're not in love with the profession, but are shoveling grub and sloshing grog at diners... More >>
Hash Over
, April 30, 1998
The one that got away A deal that would have duplicated Dallas' acclaimed restaurant Fish across the country went belly-up at the last minute.... More >>
Heavy metal
The Mercury rises above its strip-mall surroundings
, April 23, 1998
Strip malls are excellent places to get microwave burritos, spandex fashions, lessons in ballroom dancing, and salon-caliber hair gels and foams... More >>
Hash Over
, April 23, 1998
Fog rolling out? Thick rumors have been rolling in Dallas that Truluck's Steak and Stone Crab in Addison has acquired Fog City Diner. Not... More >>
Hash Over
, April 16, 1998
Traveling man Highly mobile Dallas chef Avner Samuel has a new restaurant scheduled to open this week. Called Bistro A, his new venture in... More >>
Hash Over
, April 09, 1998
At-risk child Joey Vallone, the young scion of Houston's Vallone family, which owns nine restaurants including the famed Tony's, officially... More >>
Grand hotel
The Adolphus' French Room offers courses in dining elegance
, April 02, 1998
In the wake of the pomp and ceremony of the Academy Awards, it's certain we'll be seeing many more Titanic tie-ins, at least until the James... More >>
Chaya Sushi cooks
This raw fish is beautiful to behold, even better to eat
, March 26, 1998
Dining in the raw while landlocked can be a risky proposition, a deed best performed with a well-trained gag reflex and plenty of health... More >>
When the levee breaks
Cool River Cafe floods with flavorless monotony
, March 19, 1998
The eruption of diner fascination with Cool River Cafe is one of those cultural tremors that I just don't get. I don't understand how this... More >>
Grub at earth's end
A stop at The Classic Cafe means eating well where the highway ends
, March 12, 1998
There's this odd little smell that thrives in cottages and cabins. It's not a bad smell, really--although I'm sure that if we could figure out... More >>
Boonies kitsch
Theme-soaked La Hacienda Ranch is worth the drive to Frisco
, March 05, 1998
You don't have to travel far to wallow in a good, thick sludging of theme restaurateuring. Downtown offers the always loudly entertaining Planet... More >>
Hole-in-the-wall treasure
Tasty Greek is disheveled, but the food cleans up
, February 19, 1998
A hole-in-the-wall can be dark, musty, grimy, and probably not the kind of place you'd go to impress someone on a first date, or to establish... More >>
Almost home-cooking
Bon Vivant Market avoids Eatzi's flaws, but doesn't have its zest
, February 05, 1998
For the last few years, food-industry analysts have been babbling about a significant food-service trend emerging in response to consumer demands... More >>
It's a fiasco
It's a Veritable Feast! fumbles into famine
, January 08, 1998
Restaurateuring is a hard way to make a living, harder than any honest profession except perhaps those involving a set of erasable markers and an... More >>
Pleasure chained
Mediterraneo at the Quadrangle is even better than itself
, December 11, 1997
There's one thing that you can almost always count on in the restaurant business: A fairly decent, reasonably priced dining concept will... More >>
Dining in the dark
Hotel St. Germain forgets a culinary dictum: "The eye has its rights"
, November 13, 1997
Dining at Hotel St. Germain is odd in a haunting, Ross Perot sort of way. While the space is rich and says all of the right things--historic... More >>
A wreck of a rec room
Cozy's shows there isn't much in a name, after all
, October 16, 1997
I don't know what it takes to create perfect dining atmospherics. Something homey, perhaps, with lots of rich wood, rough-hewn stone, a roaring... More >>
Men and meat
Fogo de Chao's herd of beef-toting gauchos brings home the range
, October 02, 1997
Aside from being situated at opposite ends of the hemisphere, it's hard to imagine what Brazil and Texas have in common. All attempts to uncover... More >>
Attacking Macs with chopsticks
Yoshi's brings Japanese sensibilities to an American dining habit
, September 18, 1997
The thing I like most about Americans--about being an American--is that we alone among the world's cultures really know how and what to eat. We... More >>
A French toast
La Mirabelle serves up fine French fare and holds the snootiness
, August 07, 1997
You have to admit, the French are a pretty daffy bunch. Just when you thought socialism had gone the way of Pia Zadora feature films, the French... More >>
Bait yer hooks
Matsu and Ichiban struggle with fish food
, July 31, 1997
My first salmon-fishing expedition in the Pacific Ocean may never have happened if it weren't for a black-market guide named Jeb. After hearing... More >>
Tasty tavern
The Cock & Bull is vaguely European, but definitely yummy
, July 03, 1997
An abbreviated version of a famous joke goes like this: After you die, how do you know whether you've gone to heaven or hell? When you go to the... More >>
Found in the translation
Don't let the name fool you--Mr. Max is authentic Japanese
, June 26, 1997
Driving through the constellation of strip malls on North Belt Line in Irving, you'll find various Japanese restaurants with names like... More >>
Liquid sky
Fort Worth's Flying Saucer offers a cozy space for quaffing alien beers
, June 19, 1997
What's gotten into Fort Worth lately? A few years ago, you could have filmed a sequel to The Omega Man downtown, the place was so deserted. Now... More >>
A tentative seduction
Coco Pazzo's designs on Dallas are off to a lukewarm start
, June 12, 1997
For several years, I have engaged in a one-way, anonymous (he knows my words, I know his food) correspondence with eccentric Dallas restaurateur... More >>
Hot Dish
, June 12, 1997
I guess everyone has heard by now that D-Day--the day when Mario Leal's Chiquita will close--is almost here. Chiquita, pre-Matt, pre-Mi Cocina,... More >>
Hot Dish
, May 29, 1997
Chip's, long known for the best burger 'n' fries meals in town (at least, that's always been my opinion) is now turning those griddles to another... More >>
Amazing grace
Jim Severson's new restaurant has the Wright stuff
, May 29, 1997
It's appropriate that Paul Draper based his design for Sevy's Grill, chef Jim Severson's new restaurant in Preston Center, on prairie style, the... More >>
Hot Dish
, May 22, 1997
Every spring the Dallas chapter of the American Institute of Wine and Food presents the "Ethnic Market Tour," a chef-guided bus ride to some of... More >>
Hot Dish
, May 15, 1997
I took a friend who'd been fired recently over to Legal Grounds in Lakewood for some coffee and legal advice, but once we settled into easy... More >>
Chicken-fried fake
Two more homestyle restaurants that Dallas doesn't need
, May 15, 1997
I've just about had it with home cooking. Dallas is awash in catfish and collard greens, filled with chicken-fried menus in homey digs manned... More >>
Hot Dish
, May 08, 1997
Most Dallasites already know what aroma they'll encounter when they order food flavored with "kah" or "kaffir," because Thai food has become a... More >>
Hot Dish
, May 01, 1997
Unlike many of us, Dallas chef Jim Severson has had more than one good idea. His classic American food philosophy made Dakota's a favorite for... More >>
Taming Cowtown
The Basses put the 'fort' back in Fort Worth and bankroll a restaurateur's paradise
, April 24, 1997
"Why isn't this is in Dallas?" was the out-loud reaction of a friend when he first set eyes on USA Cafe. (From blocks away, I might add. You... More >>
Hot Dish
, April 24, 1997
Fort Worth has recently become a dining mecca, but back when it was still a gastronomic desert, one of its oases was Reflections. (Reflections is... More >>
Hot Dish
, April 10, 1997
Wolfgang Puck serves imaginative, artistic-themed food at the Governor's Ball--just like the gold originals, his chocolate Oscars are reserved... More >>
Let's not
'Doing lunch' in Dallas can leave you holding the bag
, March 27, 1997
"Let's do lunch." This placebo promise usually replaces a real meal engagement--no one expects to actually eat lunch in the foreseeable future... More >>
Hot Dish
, March 20, 1997
With all the fuss about fish on the restaurant scene, it's good to remember that some of the best restaurant seafood available to us doesn't come... More >>
Hot Dish
, March 13, 1997
"I just don't get this cigar and cocktail trend--it's so eighties," a friend complained lately. It's my theory that cigars and martinis are the... More >>
Involuntary takeout
But then, who needs ambiance when you've got Ali Baba's terrific Middle Eastern?
, March 06, 1997
The service ranges from preoccupied to surly, the ambiance depends entirely on the light (it's acceptable on a sunny day and drearily depressing... More >>
Our way
Modo Mio offers its Italian unadorned but not unappreciated
, February 27, 1997
Modo Mio tags itself as "cucina rustica Italiana," but we could tell by the voice on the phone that it didn't entirely fit that description. And... More >>
Hot Dish
, February 27, 1997
"I just don't get this cigar and cocktail trend--it's so eighties," a friend complained lately. It's my theory that cigars and martinis are the... More >>
Hot Dish
, February 13, 1997
Evangelists proliferate here in the Bible belt, no matter what the precise nature of the good news they're spreading. Perhaps that's why the... More >>
Home is on the range
And, yes, you can travel on your stomach--if it's iron-plated
, January 23, 1997
Thank God the holidays are over and we can all recover, not just from overindulgence, cold-weather flus, colds, and the other deleterious effects... More >>
Well done
In a business where being good often isn't enough, who will survive 1997?
, January 16, 1997
"She was a good cook, as cooks go, and as cooks go, she went." Occasionally a cliche loses all relevance--this line (supposedly of S. J.... More >>
Respecting the expectable
Natalie's unisex tea room offers comfort food for everyone
, January 09, 1997
Navigation may confound you at Tarazza, but at some places, you know exactly where you stand. Natalie's, the little cafe with the heart-warming... More >>
Hot Dish
, January 09, 1997
Mandibles across Dallas should thank Natalie's for their homemade cinnamon rolls, a welcome break from the bagel workout most of us call... More >>
Seagoing Italian
At Lombardi Mare, one of Dallas' top restaurateurs explores uncharted waters
, January 02, 1997
It's been 15 years years since Alberto Lombardi, the man who invented Italian food in Dallas, opened a restaurant here. After his trattoria... More >>
Hot Dish
, January 02, 1997
Kazy's may be called a "food mart," but it's really a center of local Japanese culture, with a supply of magazines, videos, Japanese-style... More >>
Hot Dish
, December 26, 1996
There's a natural relation between spirits, fine food, and fine wine. Every diet expert will tell you that the first leads to the second and... More >>
Hot Dish
, December 19, 1996
Everyone knows The Gingerman is the epicenter of Dallas' brew culture: It's not anywhere near as big as a brewpub, but what these people know... More >>
Transcendent Tex-Mex
Casa Rosa defends its turf with an exceptional take on Dallas' favorite cuisine
, December 12, 1996
The thing is, it doesn't have to be this good. Casa Rosa owns its neighborhood; it has its niche clearly carved. Trapped between Highland Park... More >>
Hot Dish
, December 12, 1996
There's a reason Piggie Pies specializes in delivered pizza. You get a substantial discount if you dare to pick up your pie, but honest, Piggie... More >>
False alarm
Firehouse's hot food gimmick masks a creative bistro
, December 05, 1996
"The red and green peppers on the side of your plate are called habaneros," our young and overly earnest waiter told us. "If you like your food... More >>
The big, bad night
When the chips are down, Pietro's knows art doesn't stand a chance against clichd Italian
, November 28, 1996
So the kid wrecked his car. First son, first wreck--a noteworthy day, a family milestone, an occasion that calls for (after calling for the... More >>
Hot Dish
, November 21, 1996
Texans tend to think they own Mexican food, but the truth is, they could learn a thing or two from the Windy City, where the enchilada has gained... More >>
Adjusted expectations
The best dishes at Deep Sushi aren't Japanese or American; they're a lucky hybrid
, November 21, 1996
I'm a member of the marginal luck club. That is, luck shows itself in my life so mysteriously and obscurely--you might say, in fact, so... More >>
Hot Dish
, November 14, 1996
The dry, sweet fragrance from the sheaves of dried lavender and the long bowl of lavender buds in the entry are your first impression of... More >>
Delighting in the details
Picardys is much more than shrimp--or even seafood
, November 14, 1996
All day, plaza shoppers and shop proprietors had been asking Don Lindsley and Angus MacKay, "What time are you going to open?" All day, 6 o'clock... More >>
Hot Dish
, November 07, 1996
The number of bagel stores in Dallas is mind-boggling. In the past few years, the bagel has burst out of its East Coast boundaries and overrun... More >>
Urbane oasis
Tillman's Corner's small-time charm belies its sophisticated menu
, October 31, 1996
Ricky Tillman--another urban pioneer, but on the real frontier in the Bishop neighborhood of Oak Cliff--is working out his neighborhood... More >>
A tasteful toast
City Cafe shuns pretense to remain a favorite celebration spot
, October 24, 1996
Last week, City Cafe hosted an event pairing wild mushrooms with Pinot noir--a perfectly natural pairing if you believe the law of the land,... More >>
Hot Dish
, October 17, 1996
Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Jerez, Navarra, and Tias Baixas may not be as familiar as Russian River, but they should be. Spain is one of the great... More >>
Tasting the rainbow
Even if its service is Dallas monochrome--Lavendou offers a superb palette of Provencal
, October 10, 1996
I'm scheduled to speak to my fourth-grader's class next week about what I do for a living. Of course, I'm nervous--you can't bluff fourth... More >>
Hot Dish
, October 10, 1996
Treebeard's is a chain out of Houston--not a promising origin for a cafe with a Louisiana bill of fare, but Treebeard's is a regular destination... More >>
What's in a name?
Hunky's serves up a great burger--hot buns, too
, October 03, 1996
Hunky's. Speaking of names, "Hunky's" is the worst--too easy a target even to aim at. But the place has been around so long, no one probably even... More >>
Hot Dish
, September 12, 1996
Mozzarella Company, Dallas' only cheese factory, is famous for its fabulous goat cheese, its fresh ricotta, and even for its mozzarella. Now... More >>
Hot Dish
, September 05, 1996
Hot dogs and frozen custard. It doesn't sound like an original idea, but when you think about it, where can you treat yourself to such a meal... More >>
Hot Dish
, August 29, 1996
Celebration, the grandmother of hippie home-cooking restaurants, has been overwhelmingly popular since its opening. In fact, the only drawback to... More >>
Pub worthy of the name
Thomas Avenue Beverage Company offers a friendly drink and exceptional food
, August 22, 1996
Where's the dart board? That's what I kept wondering when I first went to a brew pub. During the past few years, the country has been flooded... More >>
Hot Dish
, August 22, 1996
I remember the first time I was confronted with a Jell-O shooter: Served in a little pleated paper cup, and brightly colored, it reminded me of... More >>
Flashback cafe
Green Elephant is a tasty throwback to the college food of yore
, August 22, 1996
A few miles north of Thomas Avenue, the management crew that is doing wonders with the Thomas Avenue Brewing Company is tending to another of the... More >>
Hot Dish
, August 01, 1996
It looks a lot like Kool-Aid, or maybe a Shirley Temple, up---a delicate pastel petal-pink, cool and frosty-looking, like Sugar 'n' Ice lipstick... More >>
Heavy mettle
Matt's No Place offers spectacularly 'unlite' fare
, August 01, 1996
The whole city knows the secret now: There's no sign, no listed phone. The painting on the outside is your only clue that you've arrived at no... More >>
Cajun quest
Good cuisine--even if it involves bathtubs of boiling oil-- never goes out of style
, July 25, 1996
Many years ago, after a lovely wedding in an old chapel in Baton Rouge, we were given a Cajun feast of crawfish and wedding cake. The favorite... More >>
Hot Dish
, July 18, 1996
The club sandwich is an all-American institution open to anyone. Food historians tell us that the club sandwich has been around since the last... More >>
Cliff hanger
Vitto's has the best pizza in Dallas, but you'll have to go to Oak Cliff to get it
, July 11, 1996
It occurred to me, as I walked into Vitto's, that the last time I reviewed a restaurant in Oak Cliff, it was at this same address. Maybe not. But... More >>
Hot Dish
, July 04, 1996
Improbably, one of the best Italian restaurants in the city has settled solidly into the suburbs. Popolo's packs them into Preston Royal Shopping... More >>
Fish story
At the Wood Grill, too many cooks make a great broth
, July 04, 1996
Just a guess, but I suppose Daddy Jack isn't planning on moving after all. The last time I talked with Jack Chaplin at any length, he was... More >>
Hot Dish
, June 27, 1996
In the corner of Preston Royal Shopping Center, back behind the post office, is tiny Best Thai, a pocket restaurant with only a few tables inside... More >>
Hot Dish
, June 20, 1996
There is no worse kitchen job than grating citrus zest. It's such a thin line between the peel and the pith and it would be a Shylock's deal to... More >>
No place in the West End
To hell with authenticity, Y.O. Ranch has great cowboy grub
, June 20, 1996
Sometimes it's hard to find the Texas in Dallas, Texas. We've paved it with parking lots and covered it up with malls and mirrored skyscrapers... More >>
Hot Dish
, June 13, 1996
My nomination for best rotisserie chicken in town--in a culture crawling with rotisserie-cooked chickens--is the herb-rubbed, tender-fleshed,... More >>
Chain of foods
At Ruggeri's, Primo's, and Cafe Express, you are where you eat
, June 13, 1996
Location, location, location. I think I may have opened a review with that phrase before, but since at least half the restaurant business is... More >>
Home run
Pasta Plus would bring a smile to Mama's face
, June 06, 1996
I am skeptical of any commercial food establishment that uses the word "home" in its description. "Home" cooking, "home"-baked,... More >>
Hot Dish
, May 30, 1996
Holy Ravioli! Sounds like something Batman would say, but take it literally this time. This new pasta shop is set up like a Baskin-Robbins store,... More >>
Take your time
Cafe Izmir has plenty of Middle Eastern delicacies on tapas
, May 30, 1996
Jack Nicholson's famous sandwich tantrum in Five Easy Pieces has been referenced so often, it's become a bit of folklore that exists apart from... More >>
Pure delight
At Majella's and Palayok, you'll get your Filipino of fine imported flavors
, May 23, 1996
It's an official prediction. After a decade or so of putting the world on a plate, so-called "fusion" cuisine is on its way "out," according... More >>
Hot Dish
, May 16, 1996
Nothing is more important to food than the fat with which it's made. Whole cuisines can be categorized by the oils--or butter--upon which they're... More >>
Hot Dish
, May 09, 1996
When my sister the chef used to visit New Orleans, the first thing she'd do after checking into a hotel was head for a convenience store and buy... More >>
Taco of the town
Tupinamba deserves its spot in Tex-Metroplex history
, May 09, 1996
If you've got a Tolltag, you know where Tupy's is. Along with Horchow Finale--the discount store of catalogue leftovers--Tupinamba (called Tupy's... More >>
An affair to forget
At St. Martins, all is not love at first bite
, May 09, 1996
It's often considered the most romantic restaurant in the city, and when I go there, I realize all over again how far I am from understanding... More >>
The edible canvas
The DMA's Seventeen-Seventeen is an artistic masterpiece
, May 02, 1996
I was in New York two weeks ago, and I saw an extraordinary work of art, of fanaticism--and, the artist claimed, of love. Liza Lou, a young... More >>
Hot Dish
, May 02, 1996
First it was scotch (single malts, the more obscure, the better), then it was the martini (in 100 high-end variations), then bourbon... More >>
Wok, don't run
For Chinese take-out, Best A Round seldom delivers
, April 25, 1996
Sometimes, not often, you simply can't face pizza again. In that case, there's only one thing to do: Order Chinese. In other cities, Chinese... More >>
Hot Dish
, April 25, 1996
The fourth Saturday of every spring and summer month, chichi Marty's hosts a highly eclectic Farmers Market featuring up to 10 vendors selling... More >>
Give and take-out
Marty's is still the best when you're ready to eat on the run
, April 18, 1996
All the chat about Eatzi's has had a subtext: What about Marty's? Across the street from Brinker's new phenomenon is the pioneer of Dallas... More >>
Seaworthy
Lefty's handles the big bugs adroitly
, April 11, 1996
Last week, my silver-haired mother ate an Egg McMuffin for the first time in her life. I won't go into the details surrounding her surrender to... More >>
Easy livin'
Eastside Grill at The Barley House offers quick, comfortable food
, April 11, 1996
I still think Randy Newman should have taken home the Oscar for best song, and my opinion was reinforced when I walked into Eastside Grill where... More >>
Hot Dish
, April 11, 1996
Brunch at Parigi is such a natural idea, it's hard to believe it's a new one. The venerable cafe, which still seems as fresh as it did when it... More >>
Adventures in dining
Sahara provides a welcome oasis in Dallas' dining desert
, March 28, 1996
Last week, I was served a baby pig snout. It's not often you're challenged by your plate and palate to that extent in Dallas because... More >>
Hot Dish
, March 28, 1996
The wonderful thing about food is not just how it tastes, but what it evokes; there are, after all, certain foods and drinks that provide their... More >>
Temple fare
Basic Indian from the lofty Taj Mahal
, March 21, 1996
Indian food in Dallas has almost gotten to the level of Mexican food:You can expect to find a usable Indian restaurant within reasonable driving... More >>
Hot Dish
, March 21, 1996
By now, everyone in the Metroplex should know about the ice-cream king of Bedford, former-federal-agent-turned-dessert-entrepreneur Milwaukee... More >>
Free-ranging deli
Can eating at Whole Foods make you a better person?
, March 14, 1996
I'm inclined to trust market research approximately to the extent that I depend on David Finfrock and his brethren's weather predictions. I like... More >>
Sacred cow
Bob's Chop House is a celebration of rich men's pleasures
, March 14, 1996
When is a cow not a cow? That's the question asked and answered in a little pamphlet sent to me by American National Cattlewomen, Inc. The answer... More >>
Making the rule
Cosmic Cup is one giant exception to everything Dallas
, February 29, 1996
There's been a whole lotta coffee talk going on during the last few years. Mainly, it's been about beans and that's what it amounts to. Bad... More >>
Bread and circus
Despite upscale pretensions, Eatzi's aims for a lowbrow market. Will it fly?
, February 15, 1996
"You'd better get on down here," my friend said, calling from her cell phone. "It's a real pop festival." She was talking about Eatzi's, the... More >>
Hot Dish
, February 15, 1996
On a recent Thursday night, we enjoyed a glass of wine, a cup of soup, and a delicious goat cheese, avocado, and vegetable sandwich on herbed... More >>
User friendly
Cafe Highland Park brings The Bubble down to earth
, February 08, 1996
It's my impression that Highland Park is populated largely by people who like to pretend they live in Connecticut and commute to the big city.... More >>
Hot Dish
, February 08, 1996
A lot of people have told me lately that I need to take notice of Dallas Affaires' cakes, but it's hard to notice some things until they're... More >>
Top pie
Sal's offers excellent old-fashioned Amer-Italian pizza
, February 01, 1996
More news from the pizza front. Not long after responding professionally to the growly-sounding phone call recommending Al's ("best pizza in... More >>
Hot Dish
, January 25, 1996
The Cotes du Coeur fine-wine auction and dinner takes place this year on February 10 at the Hyatt Regency. The event, expected to gross $500,000,... More >>
Hot Dish
, January 18, 1996
It's Wednesday evening--still almost afternoon--and it's cold, but the line snakes out the door almost to the street anyway. It will still be... More >>
Little enough
Success is in the details at Tramontana
, January 11, 1996
Tramontana is the kind of new restaurant I love to find. The owner used to work at The Mansion, and though you have to be crazy to open a... More >>
Big food
Stone Trail serves steaks and seafood you haven't seen since the '70s
, January 04, 1996
"The Legend Begins," says the sign over Stone Trail. Well, it can't begin if you can't find it. It wasn't just me. The guest who was supposed... More >>
Bread alone
The under-construction DMA Gallery restaurant may offer the best art in the joint
, January 04, 1996
You'll have to regard this as a sneak preview--a look at an unfinished artwork. The soup kitchen at the Dallas Museum of Art is completely gone,... More >>
Love story
Amore will exceed your expectations for Park Cities Italian
, December 14, 1995
We needed a quick bite on a Monday evening. No restaurant is crowded on Mondays, except maybe Star Canyon. So we didn't think twice about... More >>
Revisiting a Dallas classic
Parigi is a mainstay for sophisticated, unfailingly fresh food
, December 07, 1995
It was scary to hear that Parigi had been sold. It's one of the last remnants of the first wave of the Dallas dining renaissance, and it's been a... More >>
Hot Dish
, December 07, 1995
The most graceful surrender award goes to Michele's. Giving in to the inevitable, the coffee-themed restaurant has changed its mind and its name.... More >>
Hot Dish
, November 30, 1995
Potato chips are indisputable junk food. But the ones Two Sisters cooks up you could legitimately count as a vegetable--the thin gold curls,... More >>
Hot Dish
, November 23, 1995
Think about it: the crust is what really separates the men from the boys. Or the girls from the women, for that matter. Kids hate bread crust;... More >>
Pie-eating contest
Two pizzerias--one new, one ancient--are legitimate contenders for Dallas' best
, November 16, 1995
A tale of two pizzas: I said it was the best of pizzas, and though no one said it was the worst, there were a lot of people who claimed the... More >>
Hot Dish
, November 09, 1995
Not just for seafood anymore, TJ's Seafood at Preston and Royal, as well as selling really fresh seafood (clearly marked if it's fresh or... More >>
Pasta perfect, service prego
Momo's carries on the tradition of the surly waiter
, November 09, 1995
Over the years, I've reviewed various Momo restaurants a number of times for one publication or another (since the publishing business is nearly... More >>
Haute vinyl
The Fairmont Hotel's Brasserie is much more than a coffee shop
, November 02, 1995
Close your eyes and say "coffee shop." Tell me what you see. Ten-to-one the vision involves orange vinyl, white polyester, and hottles. Maybe... More >>
Princess for a day
Don your rhinestone tiara: The Pyramid's prix-fixe dinner is the best deal in town
, October 26, 1995
It's a time of year when princesses and witches are on the mind of a daughter's mother. Last year, we received a memo from my daughter's school... More >>
Tex-Mex time warp
Oak Cliff's Tejano hasn't changed its menu in 14 years, and they're proud of it
, October 19, 1995
Tejano in Oak Cliff is the mother of Mexican food in Dallas. One of the original jewels in the Cuellar (El Chico to you) crown, it's owned now by... More >>
Hot Dish
, October 12, 1995
Big news for the beer and wurst fans, just in time for Oktoberfest, Kuby's, the German grocery in Snider Plaza and the heart of the Rhineland in... More >>
Fruit of the vine
The Grape is Dallas' everlasting arbor
, October 12, 1995
They say you have to give a wine three chances before you can really appreciate it--the first sip shocks your taste buds, the second loosens them... More >>
A better brew
Routh Street Brewery ranks as Dallas' best brewpub to date
, October 12, 1995
I admit, I am a little early on this one. Routh Street Brewery has only been open one week. I just dropped in for a little preview dinner, I... More >>
Barfly burger
Snuffer's serves the best late-night hamburger in town
, October 05, 1995
Knowing chances were good that Snuffer's would once again garner the Reader's Choice award for best hamburger in this very newspaper, I thought... More >>
Hot Dish
, October 05, 1995
As Chandler would put it: Could there be any more bagels in Dallas? Yes, there could, I answer, and you'll be glad there are. Benny's... More >>
Cattle call
Looking for a good, reasonably priced steak? Texas Land &Cattle Co. has your beef
, September 21, 1995
White tablecloths, good service and, oh, yes, good food, aren't enough to sell a restaurant anymore. Restaurants are theme parks, like movie... More >>
Hot Dish
, September 21, 1995
Don't you want one? Notable Dallasites donated pinatas to be raffled off at "Cerveza y Quesa at the Mesa." Take your chance on a Dallas Cowboys... More >>
Higher heights, deeper depths
Thai Taste's modest view goes along with its modest food
, September 14, 1995
At one time, when revolving rooftop restaurants were the latest thing, it was standard restaurant wisdom that the higher you went to dine, the... More >>
Hot Dish
, September 07, 1995
We want fresh-made pasta, fresh-ground coffee, fresh herbs, and just-squeezed juice. In the age of convenience, we value immediacy, freshness,... More >>
Our house
Sit down with the Avila family for a plate of real comfort food
, September 07, 1995
Right now I'm disturbed by definitions. The language seems to be getting less and less precise. "Family-style," for instance. And "home cooking."... More >>
Fat zone
Chow Thai celebrates the shameful splendor of fried food
, August 31, 1995
Advertising would lead you to believe that Americans are living in a fat-free zone. Everything that can be is touted as less fat, low-fat, no... More >>
Hot Dish
, August 31, 1995
What a prix fixe! For $35 (half of which is tax-deductible), you can sample food and wine from Star Canyon, Mediterraneo, Gaspar's, Parigi,... More >>
Los Vaqueros time machine
And who the hell is George Poston?
, August 24, 1995
And another nostalgic note: I went back to Los Vaqueros recently, Pete Dominguez' retrenchment restaurant in Snider Plaza. Pete Dominguez has... More >>
Hunters 1, gatherers 0
At Kirby's, stick to the meat of the matter
, August 24, 1995
Along with the return to mythical "family values," an old-fashioned emphasis on the three "R's" in school, and, of course, the Wonderbra, comes... More >>
Tasty transliteration
Sumo Sushi explains Japanese food to Yankee palates
, August 17, 1995
Interpreting is a dangerous business. My trusted friend Hisashi (whom you've met before in this column) recently spent a lot of time following... More >>
Good fortune
Royal China should live long and prosper on Preston
, August 17, 1995
Preston Road North is the unlikeliest new dining strip. It's totally not fashionable, totally not a place to hang out, but evidently the... More >>
Northern Italian
Ferrari's, now in North Dallas, bakes a beautiful pizza
, August 10, 1995
Menu writing should be taught (or maybe it is) in those culinary academies that turn out all our chefs. Or perhaps, along with the health... More >>
Turkish delight
Cafe Istanbul offers an exotic bazaar
, August 10, 1995
One of my favorite food memories is eating a cucumber on the street in Istanbul. It was hot, we were tired out by haggling in the Grand Bazaar,... More >>
Hot Dish
, August 10, 1995
Diana, a Renaissance woman. Baker par excellence, farrier, seamstress, and dietitian. Vegetarian. Bakes the cakes and cookies for Street's Famous... More >>
Trolling the Mainstream
Dallas' newest seafood restaurant seeks to fill the fish niche
, July 27, 1995
People think in categories when it comes to restaurants. The typical dinner out begins with a conversation: "I don't feel like cooking. Want to... More >>
Old faithful
Dakota's has mellowed into one of Dallas' most dependable restaurants
, July 27, 1995
The last time I wrote about Dakota's was several years ago, for another publication. I remember on that particular weeknight visit that I was... More >>
Inner beauty
Jade Garden hides gorgeous food behind an ugly facade
, July 20, 1995
Your mama told you right: you can't judge anything by appearances. Jade Garden has as unpromising a facade as you could hope to see. A... More >>
Hot Dish
, July 13, 1995
You don't see wings as often as breasts, and they're not as big here as in Buffalo, but chicken wings are a coming thing--one part of the bird... More >>
Hot Dish
, July 06, 1995
Shannon Wynne had two good ideas and put 'em together the way Lewis Carroll invented vocabulary. The Flying Saucer is Wynne's new... More >>
Chinese quackers
Joe Chow's May Dragon serves first-rate Peking Duck in stylish surroundings
, June 15, 1995
I am always asked where to get good Chinese food in Dallas, and I always say New York or San Francisco. That's still true if you're looking... More >>
Raw pleasure
A tale of acquired tastes--namely, sushi
, June 08, 1995
I once had a cat who ate cantaloupe. I didn't have to coax her to eat cantaloupe--she naturally craved it. You couldn't sit down to eat a fruit... More >>
Big deal meal
Breadwinners hits its stride with the addition of splendid dinners
, June 08, 1995
I hate to repeat myself, and it hasn't been very long since I reviewed Breadwinners in this space. You might remember--it was a new restaurant on... More >>
Hot Dish
, May 25, 1995
Welcome the return of the legendary pool. Every kid with a fake ID in the '50s knew that behind the padded red doors of The Vagabond Club, there... More >>
Race to the border
Make like Columbus and discover the New World splendors of Monterrey
, May 25, 1995
My colleague at the Dallas Morning News reviewed Monterrey months ago, when it was new, and she predicted it would fill to overflowing as more... More >>
The boy next door
Javier's has been around so long, it's easy to overlook. Here's why you shouldn't
, May 25, 1995
I hope everyone has noticed that I've been making a conscientious effort to stop complaining about driving to Far North Dallas, a recently... More >>
Secret of success
Cremona defies the odds
, May 18, 1995
Who can say what's going to work in this business? Everyone says you can't make it without location, location, location, and then you find a... More >>
Hot Dish
, May 18, 1995
Chip's new location in the former International House of Pancakes on Lovers is bound to give Harvey Goff across the street a run for his... More >>
Super fry
Babe's chicken is as good as you'll get 'round these parts
, May 11, 1995
Babe's is a family-style restaurant, so we descended on it in full-strength family style, which, frankly, can be formidable. Our waitress was... More >>
Hot Dish
, May 04, 1995
Quick--before it gets too hot. It's the time of year when one should forego the restaurant lunch and take a sandwich to the park. And here are... More >>
Class of one
Irving's Ichijo ignores Western tastes--and merits a place as the area's finest Japanese restaurant
, April 27, 1995
When the man whom I usually refer to as "my dining companion" first started traveling to Japan on business 11 years ago, he stayed at the... More >>
Ode to blandness
Rice Boxx misses the main ingredient
, April 20, 1995
Okay, walk east on the sidewalk in front of San Remo (the one on Frankford Road) and you'll come to the Rice Boxx. It's just a Chinese... More >>
Sweet and cuddly
Go on, indulge--Thai Thai doesn't let heat get in the way of flavor
, April 13, 1995
The whole population of this neat-as-a-bandbox (what is a bandbox?) little restaurant was facing the rear wall to watch a green parrot pivot on... More >>
Hot Dish
, April 06, 1995
You may or may not remember that a few weeks ago I went off on a tangent about the State of the Cocktail. I received a little mail from that... More >>
Hot Dish
, March 09, 1995
The restaurant with the romantic reputation has become even more so. St. Martins is one of the few late-night places that lets you meet the... More >>
Glorioso
Dallas' favorite secret stakes a home north of the Trinity-- with wonderful results
, March 02, 1995
Everyone loves to be the one "in the know," the one in touch, the one who knows what's hot and what's not. Everyone loves a secret--if... More >>
Hot Dish
, March 02, 1995
How sweet it is. Lakewood is one of the prettiest parts of Dallas, but it lacks certain urban quality-of-life requirements. You can't get good... More >>
Freedom from choice
The Metro Diner's comfy world of orange vinyl makes life and breakfast simple
, February 23, 1995
Speaking of breakfast, there's something about a particular shade of orange that I've seen only in vinyl, and it's so evocative of a certain kind... More >>
Tex-Mex chauvinist
Only arrogant New Yorkers would confuse calamari and quesadillas; and, yes, Rafa's has the real thing
, February 16, 1995
A January issue of New York magazine featured two long articles: "Why America Hates New York," and "The Ultimate Mexican Restaurant Guide." The... More >>
State of the bar address
It's scary, folks, but St. Pete's Dancing Marlin isn't a bad place to eat
, February 09, 1995
I am always surprised when I tell people I work for the Dallas Observer and they immediately mention those classified personal ads. I never look... More >>
Inside the pocket
Champps Americana provides a comfortable den for families of armchair quarterbacks
, February 09, 1995
It was a quiet night at the Champps Americana sports bar the Monday night after the NFC Championship game. After all, Dallas had just proved to... More >>
Hot Dish
, February 02, 1995
Patrick Esquerre's new cookbook, written in collaboration with his mother, Monique, is a collection of the recipes behind La Madeleine's bakery... More >>
Doesn't happen often
Malls and good food unite at Nicola's in the Galleria
, January 19, 1995
The malling of America is a fact. Malls aren't just off-centers for the suburbs; city downtowns are dead, small towns have been shattered by... More >>
Hot Dish
, January 19, 1995
I knew I'd be hearing from people as soon as I compiled a list of great soups. Sure enough, I forgot to mention the tomato soup at City... More >>
Hot Dish
, January 12, 1995
Soup of the evening: the wonderfully therapeutic effects of the tom kha gai in last week's review of Royal Thai made me think of other great... More >>
Currying favor
Royal Thai is undoubtedly the prettiest Thai restaurant in town
, January 05, 1995
There are several criteria I use when judging a restaurant, but I don't use all of them all the time. Food, setting, service, atmosphere, and... More >>
Hot Dish
, December 15, 1994
It's getting to be that time of year when partygoers start working overtime, often covering several invitations in a single night, not to mention... More >>
Hot Dish
, December 08, 1994
Chip's new location in the former International House of Pancakes on Lovers is bound to give Harvey Goff across the street a run for his... More >>
No place like home
Dieter Paul's Cafe Expresso comforts the Park Cities crowd
, December 08, 1994
One exciting night at Cafe Expresso, the patrons sat politely, patiently smiling, ordering more wine and more foccacia while their dinner took as... More >>
Comforts of old Mexico
Casa Navarro reincarnates one of Dallas' original Tex-Mex restaurants
, December 01, 1994
When I moved to Dallas at the age of 10, we lived way up north at the edge of town, near Forest Lane. Back then, you could catch crawdads and... More >>
Mai oh Mai
Dallas' first popular Vietnamese restaurant still does it best
, November 24, 1994
Mai Phom opened the first popular Vietnamese restaurant in Dallas. She deserves a medal. Those were the days when ethnic food meant Mexican... More >>
Taster's choice
Need a restaurant to accompany your wine? Try Carrollton's Amici
, November 17, 1994
Everyone has to keep up with the latest information in his field. Doctors have to learn about lasers, teachers have to learn about guns, mothers... More >>
Hot Dish
, November 17, 1994
My dad, one of my regular dining companions, doesn't like goat cheese. He'll tell you so with great firmness and maintain that opinion right up... More >>
Wine punch
The economics of selling the "wine fooler" to Dallas' minority community
, November 17, 1994
Four years ago, a New York-based wine company met with Federal Trade Commission officials, the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms, and the... More >>
Thai one on
Bangkok City offers thrills beyond searing spices
, November 10, 1994
Bangkok for your buck, that's what some people look for in Thai food. For instance, my husband is mostly a sensitive, new age guy, but when it... More >>
America's deli
If you love latkes and blintzes, it helps to speak Vietnamese
, November 03, 1994
Aaah, the melting pot. Cindi's is it: the kind of Jewish deli food especially beloved by New Yorkers, served in white-bread North Dallas by an... More >>
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