Restaurant Reviews

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Hot Dish
, May 22, 1997
Every spring the Dallas chapter of the American Institute of Wine and Food presents the "Ethnic Market Tour," a chef-guided bus ride to some of... More >>
Hot Dish
, May 15, 1997
I took a friend who'd been fired recently over to Legal Grounds in Lakewood for some coffee and legal advice, but once we settled into easy... More >>
Chicken-fried fake
Two more homestyle restaurants that Dallas doesn't need
, May 15, 1997
I've just about had it with home cooking. Dallas is awash in catfish and collard greens, filled with chicken-fried menus in homey digs manned... More >>
Hot Dish
, May 08, 1997
Most Dallasites already know what aroma they'll encounter when they order food flavored with "kah" or "kaffir," because Thai food has become a... More >>
Hot Dish
, May 01, 1997
Unlike many of us, Dallas chef Jim Severson has had more than one good idea. His classic American food philosophy made Dakota's a favorite for... More >>
Taming Cowtown
The Basses put the 'fort' back in Fort Worth and bankroll a restaurateur's paradise
, April 24, 1997
"Why isn't this is in Dallas?" was the out-loud reaction of a friend when he first set eyes on USA Cafe. (From blocks away, I might add. You... More >>
Hot Dish
, April 24, 1997
Fort Worth has recently become a dining mecca, but back when it was still a gastronomic desert, one of its oases was Reflections. (Reflections is... More >>
Hot Dish
, April 10, 1997
Wolfgang Puck serves imaginative, artistic-themed food at the Governor's Ball--just like the gold originals, his chocolate Oscars are reserved... More >>
Let's not
'Doing lunch' in Dallas can leave you holding the bag
, March 27, 1997
"Let's do lunch." This placebo promise usually replaces a real meal engagement--no one expects to actually eat lunch in the foreseeable future... More >>
Hot Dish
, March 20, 1997
With all the fuss about fish on the restaurant scene, it's good to remember that some of the best restaurant seafood available to us doesn't come... More >>
Hot Dish
, March 13, 1997
"I just don't get this cigar and cocktail trend--it's so eighties," a friend complained lately. It's my theory that cigars and martinis are the... More >>
Involuntary takeout
But then, who needs ambiance when you've got Ali Baba's terrific Middle Eastern?
, March 06, 1997
The service ranges from preoccupied to surly, the ambiance depends entirely on the light (it's acceptable on a sunny day and drearily depressing... More >>
Our way
Modo Mio offers its Italian unadorned but not unappreciated
, February 27, 1997
Modo Mio tags itself as "cucina rustica Italiana," but we could tell by the voice on the phone that it didn't entirely fit that description. And... More >>
Hot Dish
, February 27, 1997
"I just don't get this cigar and cocktail trend--it's so eighties," a friend complained lately. It's my theory that cigars and martinis are the... More >>
Hot Dish
, February 13, 1997
Evangelists proliferate here in the Bible belt, no matter what the precise nature of the good news they're spreading. Perhaps that's why the... More >>
Home is on the range
And, yes, you can travel on your stomach--if it's iron-plated
, January 23, 1997
Thank God the holidays are over and we can all recover, not just from overindulgence, cold-weather flus, colds, and the other deleterious effects... More >>
Well done
In a business where being good often isn't enough, who will survive 1997?
, January 16, 1997
"She was a good cook, as cooks go, and as cooks go, she went." Occasionally a cliche loses all relevance--this line (supposedly of S. J.... More >>
Respecting the expectable
Natalie's unisex tea room offers comfort food for everyone
, January 09, 1997
Navigation may confound you at Tarazza, but at some places, you know exactly where you stand. Natalie's, the little cafe with the heart-warming... More >>
Hot Dish
, January 09, 1997
Mandibles across Dallas should thank Natalie's for their homemade cinnamon rolls, a welcome break from the bagel workout most of us call... More >>
Seagoing Italian
At Lombardi Mare, one of Dallas' top restaurateurs explores uncharted waters
, January 02, 1997
It's been 15 years years since Alberto Lombardi, the man who invented Italian food in Dallas, opened a restaurant here. After his trattoria... More >>
Hot Dish
, January 02, 1997
Kazy's may be called a "food mart," but it's really a center of local Japanese culture, with a supply of magazines, videos, Japanese-style... More >>
Hot Dish
, December 26, 1996
There's a natural relation between spirits, fine food, and fine wine. Every diet expert will tell you that the first leads to the second and... More >>
Hot Dish
, December 19, 1996
Everyone knows The Gingerman is the epicenter of Dallas' brew culture: It's not anywhere near as big as a brewpub, but what these people know... More >>
Transcendent Tex-Mex
Casa Rosa defends its turf with an exceptional take on Dallas' favorite cuisine
, December 12, 1996
The thing is, it doesn't have to be this good. Casa Rosa owns its neighborhood; it has its niche clearly carved. Trapped between Highland Park... More >>
Hot Dish
, December 12, 1996
There's a reason Piggie Pies specializes in delivered pizza. You get a substantial discount if you dare to pick up your pie, but honest, Piggie... More >>
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