It’s Sunday morning, and the only reason I’m awake is because someone turned the damn sun on. My so-called blackout curtains failing to black out anything, I groan as I get out of bed and shuffle to the kitchen in search of water and caffeine. At least a half bottle of wine is still working its way through my system, and all I want is
breakfast somebody to make me breakfast. I run through the usual brunch places in my head, but the thought of long waits and free-flowing mimosas makes my head pound a bit harder. It can’t be that hard to find somewhere quiet with decent eggs or good hangover food in general. Why am I not in Europe, where there’s a döner stand on every corner?
Next time you have a Sunday morning like mine, head to Sevan G&G Café. This Lower Greenville oasis offers the most amazing hangover cure mankind has ever invented: the kafta omelet. When the plate arrives, I see a giant mass of fluffy eggs topped with a fistful of thick, melty Parmesan cheese shavings. I cut into it, and perfectly spiced kafta — ground beef and lamb — spills out, along with grilled onions and tomatoes. I make a point of getting a little bit of each ingredient on my fork for every bite. Even though it’s massive, I polish it off, along with the bright red tomato slices and piece of toast that come with it. By the end of the meal, I’m feeling rejuvenated. The fusion of standard American brunch fare with delicious kebab ingredients can’t be beat.
The Sevan hummus and the falafel are equally excellent. The Sevan hummus comes with pine nuts and lamb, and when it’s served the lamb is still sizzling in the dish. It has a rich, nutty flavor thanks to the fat from the extra ingredients. The falafel is the best I’ve had on this side of the globe, crispy on the outside and tender on the inside without bordering on mushy. It’s served with tahini, but the seasoning in the falafel is flavorful enough that the sauce isn’t needed.
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The relaxed atmosphere makes for a great dining experience. At 11 a.m. on a Sunday, my husband and I are the only customers apart from a couple of regulars settled in the rear booths. The café is small, able to seat about 40 people inside and a few more groups on the patio. While we wait on our food, we sip on our beverages (Turkish coffee with free refills for him, regular Twinings black tea for me — no fancy mint tea here) and take in the eclectic decor. A shining brass cappuccino machine sits by the door. Murals, paintings and plastered-in wine bottles adorn the walls. The tablecloths are calming, inviting layers of blue and white. Instrumental music plays in the background on low volume.
Sevan serves breakfast and lunch items from 9:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. The waitress told us it’s sometimes busy and sometimes empty like today, but the odds are good you won’t have to wait long for a table. They don’t serve alcohol, but it’s BYOB, so you can still have mimosas with your Sunday brunch if you swear by hair-of-the-dog for your hangover (just be sure to order $30 worth of food for your table or there’s a $15 corkage fee).
If you love good breakfast, Mediterranean food, friendly service, eating your way out of a hangover, dining somewhere you don’t have to raise your voice to talk to your tablemates or bottomless Turkish coffee, eat here. You won’t be disappointed.
Sevan G&G Café, 2221 Greenville Ave., 214-821-0601. Sevan hummus $9.95, falafel plate $10.95, kafta omelet $10.95, Turkish coffee $2.50, tea $1.95.