Short Orders: May Dragon
4848 Belt Line, Addison
According to my fortune, there's an "interesting musical opportunity" in my very near future. This could, of course, mean only one thing: the Sex Pistols are back together and in need of a Sid Vicious stand in. Either that or Pete Freedman wants me to post something on DC9.
But the latter hardly seems likely.
May Dragon needs little help in regards to the future, as it seems to be supporting its reputation well enough. Many still consider it the best of DFWs Chinese restaurant pickings, for whatever that's worth and the owner currently doubles as Addison's mayor.
Their menu rummages lightly through some true Chinese standards, as
well as the nation's culinary oddities. That means pickled jellyfish and small dried fish on
the same menu as General Tsao's chicken. They've served shark fin soup and classic lobster Cantonese, but also do wraps. And they list three separate efforts at Peking duck. Egg drop soup trips carefully
along that narrow line between viscous and watery, offering a subdued
sour flavor over faint spiciness. Peking-style roast pork shows off a
nice, meaty character, but wallows in tedious sweet and sour sauce.
Probably better than Beijing-style, at least.
So it's not as if 'best' means 'perfect.' But the kitchen remains quite capable, nonetheless. Orange chicken, for instance, features extraordinarily tender white meat--don't even think it--in a crust thick and crunchy, yet so ethereal it almost dissolves on your tongue. The sauce speaks of sweetened, juicy citrus. Underneath this impression, however, you'll discover the bitterness of orange peel calmed over a grill, the grounded residue of root vegetables and a well leashed layer of heat.
That kind of cooking keeps people coming back.
Get the Dining Newsletter
The week's top local food news and events, plus interviews with chefs and restaurant owners, dining tips, and a peek at our print review.