A rich, smoky sauce is hiding under that blanket of aged cheddar on Sugarbacon's burger. Stupendously great Idaho potato fries are on the side.EXPAND
A rich, smoky sauce is hiding under that blanket of aged cheddar on Sugarbacon's burger. Stupendously great Idaho potato fries are on the side.
Nick Rallo

Sugarbacon's Burger Overshadowed by Some of Dallas' Best French Fries

Things are polished at Sugarbacon. Splatter-pattern art, like an alien ocean, sparkles near the entrance. Shiny copper reaches the ceiling behind the bar, and a couple of TVs glisten. Sitting at the bar at Sugarbacon, looking toward the glowing liquors, with a big chalkboard announcing draught specials hanging above, it feels like your favorite neighborhood bar got dressed to the nines.

The burger is dressed up too, but it's a sandwich that stumbles on the dance floor. The SB Burger ($14) is a Local Yocal wagyu patty topped with aged cheddar, sugarbacon (their house-smoked pork belly), bread and butter pickles, and a buttered bun hit with garlic mayo. I’ve travelled a long way to the edges of Middle Earth — I mean McKinney — and I’m so hungry. I’m pretty sure my stomach said something in the language of Mordor. The burger comes after a wait that was just long enough for my stomach growls to attract crows and bats to the windows.

The aged cheddar is melted like a Salvador Dali clock. I asked for medium rare, so I sliced it down the center to check it out. The wagyu looks past medium, and, immediately after slicing, a rush of barbecue sauce flows from the burger. Turns out, the blanket of aged cheddar is hiding the sugarbacon — Berkshire pork belly smothered in rich, smoky ancho sauce.

The patty eats more like a meatloaf. The pork belly, usually welcome at any party, is a little chewy. That thick sugarbacon sauce, while nice and smoky, overwhelms the rest of the toppings. I love a good barbecue sauce on a burger, but the sauce was more like a roundhouse kick to the jaw. The mayo has a mild tang. It's damn good and I wish it wasn’t muted out by the sauce. I’m also loving the bun, but it's hard not to love anything butter-toasted. I might eat a book that’s been butter-toasted and house-mayoed, but that’s neither here nor there. 

Which is when I try a fry. The fries are excellent, cut like mini-skyscrapers and as monumental. These are fries that salute their source — Idaho potatoes that are just crisp enough and even more creamy, with the right amount of salt.

One of the best things about a good pile of fries are those stupidly-crispy (sometimes all potato skin) slivers that come with it. In this fry pile, the crispy shards were outstanding. A swipe in some ketchup and, I’m pretty sure, these will be your new favorite fries. 

After eating a few, I truly wanted to do those little open palm, mini bows to them. (I’m not worthy.) They’re the best I’ve had in Dallas in a while, and certainly worth the drive that's long enough to read a Tolkien novel.

Sugarbacon is at 216 W. Virginia St., No. 100, McKinney

Newsletters

All-access pass to the top stories, events and offers around town.

  • Top Stories
    Send:

Newsletters

All-access pass to top stories, events and offers around town.

Sign Up >

No Thanks!

Remind Me Later >