Following months of speculation he was doing it, chef Gilbert Garza finally did it, or at least admitted he did it. After roughly a year of working in the kitchen, Garza bought Suze, the near Northwest Dallas neighborhood restaurant that was Going Gourmet before former Mediterraneo kitchen grunt Suzie Priore took it over and put her stamp on it. Garza enlisted his wife, Lisa, to run the front of the house and formed a corporation called "Taco Bout Us," which in no way means he has plans to experiment with refried beans and melted Velveeta. Instead, Garza, who largely carved his reputation at the defunct Toscana before a short episode at Mother Pearl's Seafood House and Oyster Bar on Lemmon Avenue, says he likes the wordplay in the name, which is inspired by Richard Melman's Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises, a Chicago-based restaurant company. "It just rolls off your tongue," Garza says. With a klasch of silent partners backing him, Garza plans to expand within a year if Suze performs well, though he insists he will never duplicate Suze. What he does plan is a slightly revamped menu, a vigorous slate of wine dinners, and a line of specialty sauces, vinaigrettes, dressings, condiments, and perhaps specialty meats. Priore, who has severed her ties to the restaurant bearing a derivation of her name, is in Santa Fe, New Mexico, where she plans to open a Tequila bar. Restaurant business careers seem to always end in shots.
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