The Green Room's Blacktooth Burger Has a Crown Royal and Coke Sauce, and It's Delicious
The Blacktooth, which is not a serial killer from True Detective.
There's a good chance you'll be roving Deep Ellum soon, hunting for food. If you're a City of Ate regular, it's a safe bet you'll be on the brain-eating-zombie-like hunt for a cheeseburger that doesn't suck. So here's some great news: The Green Room, which shed its fancy skeleton last year and updated its image to be a little more White Snake-esque, has some food that really, really doesn't suck. They have steak tacos with heaping piles of pickled red onions and carnitas with a Dr Pepper gravy, which, holy hell mouth, have you heard of a better combination of words?
Late last night, when the Mardi Gras jangling brass was pouring onto Elm Street from the Twilite Lounge, The Green Room was quiet -- except for, you know, the heavy metal playing on the jukebox. A big, colorful chalkboard above the exposed kitchen tells you the menu. Def Leppard's "Foolin" was playing. So, let's get to the burger:
I had the Blacktooth, which was 10 bucks. It came with an avalanche of french fries, and a creamy arugula slaw that had a laser beam of garlic. The burger came with tomatoes, a healthy blanket of Paula Lambert's smoked mozzarella and -- wait for it -- a sauce of reduced Crown Royal and Coca-Cola.
It was sweet and boozy, but when you poured that stuff over the salty, smoked mozzarella, it was delicious. I threw that blindingly garlicky slaw on top, and that made it Heisenberg-good. The kitchen suggested I cook it medium, which didn't have a hint of red, but the half-pound patty was juicy and had that insanely addictive griddled crunch thing.
A couple of complaints: The brioche bun was soggy on the bottom, and that arugula slaw had enough garlic in it to be a Scorcese movie. Otherwise, I'd vote this better than Twisted Root for getting burger-drunk in Deep Ellum. Food just tastes better when it's accompanied by power chords.
Get the Dining Newsletter
The week's top local food news and events, plus interviews with chefs and restaurant owners, dining tips, and a peek at our print review.