BBBop's Kimchi Fries: Eat This Now Dallas | Dallas Observer

Eat This

The Kimchi Fries at BBBop Are a Glorious, Delicious Pile of Food

Generally, foods arranged in a pile have to work at being appetizing. And once everything is mushed together, flavors can occasionally get lost in translation. That's often the case with poutine, especially the fancified versions on plenty of restaurant menus. But kimchi fries, a Korean spin on the traditional delicious-stuff-piled-on-top-of-fries dish, are the food pile of your dreams.

At BBBop, you really can’t go wrong. The fried chicken is dope and the bibimbap bowls are legit (and healthy), but order the kimchi fries when you feel you deserve something special. Of course, kimchi fries aren’t traditional, but their namesake ingredient lends plenty of Korean spice to this totally indulgent dish.

BBBbop's shoestring fries provide a unique and solid foundation. They're coated in the same dry curry-ranch rub that you can order on the crispy fried chicken wings. The mixture sounds bizarre, but it works, and you’ll find yourself working on an at-home version with an ancient bottle of curry powder and a Hidden Valley Ranch packet from the back of your pantry. You will not succeed.

Then, you can top the fries with a protein of your choice. Theoretically, you could choose tofu, but that would be dumb. The braised Korean pork at BBBop is the best topping choice, and there’s enough meat in a regular order of the fries to feed at least two people. The pork is sweet, fatty and perfectly tender. No one will judge you if you start eating it with your fingers when you're running low on fries.

The meat and fries are topped with a sunny-side-up fried egg, which you should immediately puncture, allowing the yolk to mingle with the rest of the ingredients. A healthy helping of housemade kimchi — based on owner Sandra Bussey’s mom’s recipe — adds tang and funk, and you should definitely ask for extra. Perhaps the typical Greenville Avenue dweller isn't that into fermented cabbage condiments, but Dallas dishes should incorporate more kimchi, and this one's no exception.

Pickled jalapñnos, spicy mayo sauce and magic round out the kimchi fries, served in a basket just like fries should be. If you want to punch up the flavor (not that you need to), you could always grab one of those bottles of house-made sauce — try the Seoul Fire if you like heat — and drizzle to your heart’s content. You’re obviously going to need a fork to eat these fries, and don’t be surprised if you end up with an errant bit of kimchi or a delicious porky surprise on your T-shirt. This is a messy dish, but entirely worth the mountain of napkins you’re going to need.

At $7.95 for a large order and less than $5 for a half, you’re sort of an idiot if you pass up a sub-$10 dish that can easily feed two not-starving people. If you do decide to tackle a regular order of kimchi fries on your own, prepare to head directly home for a nap afterward. You will need it. Not that we know from experience or anything. 
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Amy McCarthy

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