The Whole Hog Sandwich at Smoke Should Probably Be Your Next Lunch

The Whole Hog Sandwich at Smoke Should Probably Be Your Next Lunch

Each week, Justin Bitner goes hunting for DFW's most interesting sandwiches. Have a sandwich suggestion? Leave it in the comments and he'll check it out.

Venue: Smoke

The Sandwich: Whole Hog Sandwich ($12)

Bread: House baked roll kissed by the sweet bird of honey

Toppings: Pulled pork rolled in mustard vinegar sauce, blue cheese slaw

The Case: Perched atop a hill on Ft. Worth Avenue, Smoke serves as an edible encyclopedia on the rewards of scratch cooking. Walking in during a sparsely attended weekday lunch, I felt like I had stumbled upon a well-appointed smoke shack in the middle of the Tonopah Desert. The bar was crowded with jars of various size and shape, each containing some sort of lumber-infused potable. Faded photos of someone's family gather on one wall in an understated cluster, not in the Chuy's "this-reminds-me-of-my-Grandma's-attic-why-are-they-all-looking-at-me" kind of way.

Scanning through the sandwich list on the lunch menu, I opted to go with the Whole Hog sandwich, prepared in a Carolina-style vinegar/mustard sauce. The $12 price tag includes a side and a drink, a combination not seen often enough on lunch menus. After hearing the drink choices, I went with fresh mint limeade, muddled and mixed a few feet from my table. It was a testament to effervescence, providing an excellent palate cleansing without leaving behind a sugary aftertaste.

Before the server brought my dish to the table, I could sense the smoky aroma of the hogger approaching. The plate came decked with the sandwich and a cup of cheddar grits and hominy, which was stellar. The generous amount of cheddar provided a heavy foundation, while the hominy gave a creatively bulbous change to the texture of this suddenly ubiquitous side.

As I was mowing through the dish, my server returned with a foursome of flip-top bottled sauces, all concocted on the premises. Carolina-style sauce (one of the four) coated the pork expertly, lending just the right amount of flavor without overshadowing the quality of the smoked meat. Adding a dash of the Texas-style sauce gave a sweet tomato element, though BBQ purists would likely shun such regional in-saucing. The freshly baked roll, aided by the addition of honey to the dough, had the perfect texture and didn't get too soggy from all the toppings. The slaw added a counterbalancing crunch to the sandwich, while the blue cheese component had a subtle funk that brought things together like some Barry White on a booze-fueled third date.

The Verdict: At Smoke, you can go hoggin' and be proud to tell your friends about it.

More 'Wich Trials: The Club at Sid's Rainbow Grill The Reuben at Coppell Deli The Italian Hoagie at Fred's Downtown Philly

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miles
Smoke

901 Fort Worth Ave.
Dallas, TX 75208

214-393-4141

www.smokerestaurant.com


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