It was just about a year ago when Twin Peaks first made the announcement: The Dallas-based breastaurant group was getting into the beer-brewing business, riding on the heels of the craft beer movement that was inundating the nation in small-batch suds. The chain released two beers with the promise of more to come.
I tried them both at the Mockingbird Station location, but I ended up not writing a word about the beers. I remember them being wholly unimpressive, reminding me a little of the brewpub beer I used to quaff in massive quantities (the headaches!) in the 1990s. The Knotty Brunette was an amber. I got mine man-sized and proceed to fight my way through a layer of frozen froth to get to the beer.
Twin Peaks prides itself on the distribution system that delivers beers just below freezing. The bar staff keep mugs in a freezer, and when one gets filled with beer everything that isn't alcohol turns into ice crystals. A small iceberg formed in my beer, and when I pointed it out I learned a Twin Peaks pro tip I will share with you now. Ask for your mug to be rinsed before it is filled because beer poured at 29 degrees is plenty cold enough. Also, get the chicken wings.
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Anyway, the amber sucked. And the Dirty Blonde drank like a Blue Moon ripoff. I left and figured I'd never revisit the beer again, but now it seems they're appearing on store shelves. A third beer, Gold Digger Golden Ale, joins the other two at Spec's, Total Wine and other area retailers. As you might have guessed, their website makes a bunch of jokes about cans, but you have to wonder how well this beer is going to go over without a Twin Peaks professional to lean over the bar counter to sell it.