Entering Bullion is like ascending into an alien spaceship from the luxury galaxy. Inside, these very fabulous aliens operate a French restaurant that aims for elegance without stuffiness, playfulness without gimmickry and a classic feel that doesn’t tip into the reactionary. That’s quite a balancing act, and so far, it mostly works, says Observer food critic Brian Reinhart.
Read his full review and take a tour of Bullion's opulence via photos from Kathy Tran.