They're scattered all over town, from far north to deep south, but a few months ago, the supermarket—with its wall of breads and pastries, its open grills sizzling spicy chickens, its rows of fruit juices beckoning in bright neon, its sides of beef and pork hanging in see-through freezers, its rich spread of inexpensive produce—opened at the northeast corner of Walnut Hill and Marsh lanes, where, many moons ago, once stood a Baskin-Robbins and Lantrip's Pharmacy. The neighbors were at first panicked about the addition; the ignorant spread fliers warning of increased crime, what with all those brown people congregating in a Northwest Dallas neighborhood where the immigrant is already the majority. But now, its aisles and taco counter (and, really, the barbacoa in adobo is to be savored) are a multiculti experience—and a far better trip than to the next-door Wendy's, no offense.