Yeah, yeah—cheating a bit. Dali doesn't have the largest cellar, and they are a wine bar as much as a restaurant. But Joel Harloff is one of the most accomplished chefs in Dallas. People visit the place for his cooking as much as for the wine selection. And the One Arts Plaza establishment has accumulated some of the most knowledgeable drinking professionals in the city, starting with owner Paul Pinnell. Expertise in pairing to food and personal taste matters, after all. As an added bonus, they have a retail sales outlet—the Cellar—offering some interesting and hard-to-find labels.