Organic is the least of it for Tom Spicer. He won't sell a tomato, an onion or a potato if it doesn't have the right terroir, a vintner's term for the flavor and quality imparted to the grape by the place where it is cultivated. Who knew potatoes could have terroir? "I taste things down at the farmers market, and I have a bad taste in my mouth for a week," he said, referring to produce that is quick-grown with chemicals. He chooses only produce that tastes of the good Earth, some of which he grows himself on a plot behind his store. He also develops suppliers among small regional farms. Cool place. Staff includes chef Cole Kelly. Spicer's sister is famous New Orleans chef and author Susan Spicer.