Every popular taquería has a most celebrated taco. There's always a filling they pull off with a little more flair than their taco-making counterparts. But when Los Torres Taquería opened and offered several noteworthy taco types, something special happened. Your order will be larger than you're used to here, and there's little you can do about it. How can one choose between birria and barbacoa roja? The first is soft and tender goat meat, flavored gently with cinnamon and clove and kissed lightly with chiles for heat. The barbacoa is more aggressive. The abundance of dried chiles lends a rusty red color and the subtle suggestion of smoke, while the meat has been cooked down into tender threads that could only belong in a tortilla. It tastes so much like home cooking you might feel like you're eating in someone's home. You almost are. Los Torres Taquería is a family business, and Mrs. Torres is patting fresh tortillas in the kitchen.